Finds and Deals - Leather Jacket Edition

Leather Walker · Feb 7, 2021

Montgomery Ward Two-Star, $225 > https://www.etsy.com/listing/110341539/vintage-montgomery-ward-2-star

JMax · Feb 7, 2021

Passaic CR 40

https://etsy.me/3qbeTAg

yellowfever · Feb 7, 2021

tmitchell59 said:
Block Bilt jackets do not show up too often. I bought one in Japan and I have seen this jacket. They made a variety of outerwear much of it leather.

I am not familiar with links between Cal Leather and Block. This particular Block is from around 1940. Can you say what is the Debate?

Hi Terry, it’s certainly a nice looking jacket, though of course I’ve only ever seen pictures of such rarities...

As to the ‘debate’, Rin Tanaka’s book “Motorcycle jackets: A century of Leather Design” on page 59 talks briefly about Block Bilt and has photos of a CHP style jacket and it’s label (Star) with the photos captioned:

“Heavy black horsehide policeman jacket, CHP-style (California Highway Patrol) by Block Bilt’s Star brand, 1950s”

So this seems to suggest that Rin Tanaka took the view that Block Bilt owned the Star (Glove) brand at one time (Star Glove later becoming Cal Leather).

Purely based on internet information (which may or may not be reliable!), I understood that there was subsequently some debate on whether this assertion was correct or not... and apparently authoritative views from two other eminent collectors that it was not in fact correct and that Star and Block Bilt, whilst making similar jackets, were not connected.

https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/star-chp-info-wanted.487/

Anyway, it was interesting to see this Block Bilt CHP jacket, certainly whilst looking broadly the same as a cal leather (or star glove) CHP jacket, it has some obvious differences even to my non-expert eye, eg no stitch line from top corner of hand warmer pockets and different stitching lines on the waist band on the front and the back. So if Star Glove was a Block Bilt brand as Rin Tanaka seems to claim, then, at least from this limited sample, they did more than simply put a star label on traditional block bilt jackets...

Anyway, hope it was of interest, though you’ll clearly be far more familiar with these old jackets, so I defer to your judgement in such things!

JMax · Feb 7, 2021

I will bow down to TM’s luminary-class of jacket knowledge. But I consider them to be wholly separate makers. Tanaka is the only source I have found tying them all together. Star to Cal is well documented.

Block Bilt is “still around”. A TFL member bought one of their jackets and was pleased, but it was a few years ago and I haven’t seen him around.

http://www.block-bilt.com/site/products.php?cat=all

yellowfever · Feb 7, 2021

JMax said:
I will bow down to TM’s luminary-class of jacket knowledge. But I consider them to be wholly separate makers. Tanaka is the only source I have found tying them all together. Star to Cal is well documented.

Block Bilt is “still around”. A TFL member bought one of their jackets and was pleased, but it was a few years ago and I haven’t seen him around.

http://www.block-bilt.com/site/products.php?cat=all

Interesting, thanks, and the “about” section on block bilt (presumably a revival?) gives some nice history too. Fascinating stuff, I really like these old CHP jackets and hope to learn enough to help me find a nice one, but I leave it to the experts to untangle the history of the various makers!

Pandemic · Feb 8, 2021

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284176612233

Fidelity:

jonbuilder · Feb 8, 2021

yellowfever said:
Hi Terry, it’s certainly a nice looking jacket, though of course I’ve only ever seen pictures of such rarities...

As to the ‘debate’, Rin Tanaka’s book “Motorcycle jackets: A century of Leather Design” on page 59 talks briefly about Block Bilt and has photos of a CHP style jacket and it’s label (Star) with the photos captioned:

“Heavy black horsehide policeman jacket, CHP-style (California Highway Patrol) by Block Bilt’s Star brand, 1950s”

So this seems to suggest that Rin Tanaka took the view that Block Bilt owned the Star (Glove) brand at one time (Star Glove later becoming Cal Leather).

Purely based on internet information (which may or may not be reliable!), I understood that there was subsequently some debate on whether this assertion was correct or not... and apparently authoritative views from two other eminent collectors that it was not in fact correct and that Star and Block Bilt, whilst making similar jackets, were not connected.

https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/star-chp-info-wanted.487/

Anyway, it was interesting to see this Block Bilt CHP jacket, certainly whilst looking broadly the same as a cal leather (or star glove) CHP jacket, it has some obvious differences even to my non-expert eye, eg no stitch line from top corner of hand warmer pockets and different stitching lines on the waist band on the front and the back. So if Star Glove was a Block Bilt brand as Rin Tanaka seems to claim, then, at least from this limited sample, they did more than simply put a star label on traditional block bilt jackets...

Anyway, hope it was of interest, though you’ll clearly be far more familiar with these old jackets, so I defer to your judgement in such things!

I always wonder about the connection Rin made with Block Blitz based in Oakland and Star Grove in LA. Thank you for clarifying.

jonbuilder · Feb 8, 2021

I believe this Block Blitz has already been posted
https://www.ebay.com/itm/horse-hide...lf-belt-jacket-rare-example-excl/333646076698

and my size I have been considering sending an offer just waiting to sell something to raise the starch.

yellowfever · Feb 8, 2021

jonbuilder said:
I believe this Block Blitz has already been posted
https://www.ebay.com/itm/horse-hide...lf-belt-jacket-rare-example-excl/333646076698

and my size I have been considering sending an offer just waiting to sell something to raise the starch.

View attachment 308224

Looks nice and in great shape for its age. I in particular love the caramel colour and the clean styling. Shame no photos of the back tho’...

Coriu · Feb 8, 2021

Schott Perfecto Small NWOT $299 bid or $425 BIN ends in 18 hours and no bids yet - included this because I thought it would be pretty good buy if someone could pick up for $299 and free shipping

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Schott-Mot...084035?hash=item3674662083:g:YXsAAOSwTyJgGJ2v

TSW · Feb 8, 2021

U.S. Made jacket from Middleton, MA size 42. https://www.ebay.com/itm/U-S-Made-C...599450?hash=item2afcb8da9a:g:R9YAAOSwIfBgB0zf

willyto · Feb 8, 2021

Both jackets are a steal.

Eastman Leather A-1 Size 40 $650

https://www.styleforum.net/buyandse...ght-jacket-by-eastman-leather-clothing.24540/

RMC G-1 size 36(38ish) $480

https://www.styleforum.net/buyandse...acket-size-38-20th-anniversary-edition.23245/

Kalmer · Feb 8, 2021

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203267885451
Very cool and unusual design

tmitchell59 · Feb 8, 2021

yellowfever said:
Hi Terry, it’s certainly a nice looking jacket, though of course I’ve only ever seen pictures of such rarities...

As to the ‘debate’, Rin Tanaka’s book “Motorcycle jackets: A century of Leather Design” on page 59 talks briefly about Block Bilt and has photos of a CHP style jacket and it’s label (Star) with the photos captioned:

“Heavy black horsehide policeman jacket, CHP-style (California Highway Patrol) by Block Bilt’s Star brand, 1950s”

So this seems to suggest that Rin Tanaka took the view that Block Bilt owned the Star (Glove) brand at one time (Star Glove later becoming Cal Leather).

Purely based on internet information (which may or may not be reliable!), I understood that there was subsequently some debate on whether this assertion was correct or not... and apparently authoritative views from two other eminent collectors that it was not in fact correct and that Star and Block Bilt, whilst making similar jackets, were not connected.

https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/star-chp-info-wanted.487/

Anyway, it was interesting to see this Block Bilt CHP jacket, certainly whilst looking broadly the same as a cal leather (or star glove) CHP jacket, it has some obvious differences even to my non-expert eye, eg no stitch line from top corner of hand warmer pockets and different stitching lines on the waist band on the front and the back. So if Star Glove was a Block Bilt brand as Rin Tanaka seems to claim, then, at least from this limited sample, they did more than simply put a star label on traditional block bilt jackets...

Anyway, hope it was of interest, though you’ll clearly be far more familiar with these old jackets, so I defer to your judgement in such things!

Thanks for the page reference. The Rin books are essential, but some of the information is not accurate. I looked through it and found several errors, I also found a lot of good/interesting information. Perhaps that is the issue. The Block company that made the jacket in question was based in San Francisco.

Block made a variety of Sportwear jackets and Police styled jackets. They also worked in other materials than leather. Taubers made primarily MC/Police jackets, riding Gear. Ralphs-Pugh did make both, but surviving jackets tend toward MC/Police jackets. RP also used other than leather, but those are scarce. I would expect to see more of a Sportswear jacket coming from Block.

My impression is that Block was a larger maker. I'm thinking they had the capacity to have made many of the "made and styled in California" jackets that were produced under a variety of Store/catalog labels. That is my guesswork.

It is also mentioned in the book, that California Sportwear Co. went out of business in the late 50s. They continued into the 70s. There is little information to date on this company, who was a prolific maker of leather sportwear. They probably made jackets for other labels, but I have not been able to find evidence of that.

PaullegendSmith · Feb 8, 2021

Will Zach said:
So the new Etsy seller is in the UK, as is Martin Gray. Coincidence? I think not....

So are another 60 million people LOL

yellowfever · Feb 8, 2021

Thanks Terry very interesting, yes I guess there are lot of things to untangle and some things get confused or lost in translation or the mists of time... the reference made no sense to me, albeit as a non-expert, so interesting to hear you agree as someone better informed. But as you say much of the info in the books is invaluable and undoubtedly correct...

I must say I also like the Ralph’s Pugh but not seen that many (though there’s a lovely - but rather expensive and sadly the wrong size - one on Etsy just now).

Hoping that the Taubers you had in mind for me works out when you get to it.

jonbuilder · Feb 8, 2021

Kalmer said:
View attachment 308406
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203267885451
Very cool and unusual design

Sold someone scored big

yellowfever · Feb 8, 2021

jonbuilder said:
Sold someone scored big

Ha indeed shades of Score fencer style jackets with that very full lancer front design, always liked that and the (sadly unaffordable for me) Himel Chevalier which also has a full lancer front and also the snaps too. At the more affordable end of things I’ve seen vintage Furygan jackets with those three poppers at the top/side of chest to secure the lancer front, but they’re not in the same league as this...

But frankly this Melbourne jacket was indeed an interesting jacket at a really fantastic price, i’d have tried to buy it myself as I’m a fan of heavyweight jackets with a difference. Nice clean back matched with a very interesting, but not at all overdone, front...

Sadly too big for me so I didn’t try to get it. I hope someone here got it and does a review...

I’m not familiar with the brand but the snaps seem to have the outline of Australia etched into them, so I guess they’re fairly well known in Australian circles? The serious heft bodes well for the quality of the leather and construction.. great spot by Kalmer...

JMax · Feb 8, 2021

Kalmer said:
View attachment 308406
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203267885451
Very cool and unusual design

Awesome. Looks like my old Mars Brando in Kangaroo hide. I miss that jacket.

Australian maker.

Graemsay · Feb 8, 2021

Chapal currently have a promotional code, CHAP21, that is valid until the end of the month. It gives a 40% discount on their jackets.

They're probably not to the forum's taste, though I do quite like the 3/4 length version of the A1 that they do.

https://chapal.fr/produit/a1-3-4-coat/

Finds and Deals - Leather Jacket Edition

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