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abone · Feb 10, 2021

56DeSoto said:
Does anyone have reference photos of a cross-zip with a mandarin collar? Kinda like a perfecto-cafe racer hybrid? I'm talking to Five Star about a possible custom and I'm looking for some inspiration images. Bonus for womens jackets, but I'll take anything you think looks cool.

This was custom made for me around 15 years ago, in cowhide. Not sure if this is the style you mean or not but I always wished it didn’t have a Mandarin collar. I ride and it doesn’t provide any warmth at the neck. It is a comfortable jacket however. It’s too big for me now unfortunately.
Edit: added a fit pic

handymike · Feb 10, 2021

Do you mean the "Cafecto"?
https://www.schottnyc.com/products/cafecto-jacket.htm

or more like a Langlitz Cascade?
https://www.oilandinkexpo.com/rarities/vintage-langlitz-cascade-jacket

56DeSoto · Feb 11, 2021

Yes! Something like that. For me, it's going to be about fashion, so neck warmth isn't a big deal.

abone2010 said:
This was custom made for me around 15 years ago, in cowhide. Not sure if this is the style you mean or not but I always wished it didn’t have a Mandarin collar. I ride and it doesn’t provide any warmth at the neck. It is a comfortable jacket however. It’s too big for me now unfortunately.
Edit: added a fit pic

56DeSoto · Feb 11, 2021

handymike said:
Do you mean the "Cafecto"?
https://www.schottnyc.com/products/cafecto-jacket.htm

or more like a Langlitz Cascade?
https://www.oilandinkexpo.com/rarities/vintage-langlitz-cascade-jacket

Yes on both. But minus the cafecto epaulets. But, ya know, that Cascade is just lovely! I really like that look a lot, though I'd probably go for less quilting and more of a streamlined appearance.

abone · Feb 11, 2021

56DeSoto said:
Yes! Something like that. For me, it's going to be about fashion, so neck warmth isn't a big deal.

Check Thurston Bros, they have some Thedi’s and Vansons in this style. Lots of leather choices too.

jglf · Feb 11, 2021

How many inches do you think Vanson’s insulated quilted liner (sewn in, not removable snap in version) takes up in the chest roominess department? I want to size down to a 38, but the only measurements that cause me concern is the P2P size. The 40 with quilted insulated fits pretty good with no restrictions.

This pic makes the jacket look pretty bulky bc it is new and has the thick insulated liner. I also buckled the side straps pretty tight. The version I want to downsize will be made of a lighter weight leather than the competition weight and with their rayon lining.

abone · Feb 11, 2021

jglf said:
How many inches do you think Vanson’s insulated quilted liner takes up in the chest roominess department? I want to size down to a 38, but the only measurements that cause me concern is the P2P size. The 40 with insulation fits pretty good with no restrictions.

L

]

I have the Vanson Oxford, which is Thurston Bros custom version of this in 1.4mm cow.
I have a 42, well fitted. It has the provision for snap in liner, which I don’t have. I layer and with a t-shirt and long sleeve shirt, it’s snug. I’d have to size up to a 44 in order to wear that liner.

56DeSoto · Feb 12, 2021

Is anyone familiar with Slater and Son (by Golden Bear Sportswear/Made in California)? I've heard of Golden Bear, but I'm not familiar with the Slater label or if it represents a vintage or newer jacket.

handymike · Feb 12, 2021

This looks like a contemporary brand. Golden Bear does a lot of these “collaborations” adding to a brand’s vintage/heritage appeal. Modern GB jackets aren’t that great, but if the price is right...

56DeSoto · Feb 12, 2021

handymike said:
This looks like a contemporary brand. Golden Bear does a lot of these “collaborations” adding to a brand’s vintage/heritage appeal. Modern GB jackets aren’t that great, but if the price is right...

Thanks. It did a little research and it looks like S. Slater and Son was the original founder of Golden Bear, though I'm quite sure the jacket I'm looking at isn't that vintage.

Goel · Feb 12, 2021

Jin431 said:
I'm getting one made from the seal brown Vermont JL have in stock so I'm also interested here. It's midweight 2-2.5 oz at the most so it will be very easy to wear, looks like it will crease/roll up a lot considering how the top coat has a little waxy feel to it.

I have some samples and water rolls off, even though it's veg tanned like the German Masaye leather. JL did say Horween applies something or other for protection but I would still ask them about it.

Jin431 · Feb 13, 2021

Goel said:
I have some samples and water rolls off, even though it's veg tanned like the German Masaye leather. JL did say Horween applies something or other for protection but I would still ask them about it.

Yes, I have a sample of the dark brown and seal brown as well. The seal brown Vermont feels it has a little more heft/sheen/pull up as well, the dark brown looks a little more dull in comparison so I went with the seal brown Vermont instead.

Fonzie · Feb 13, 2021

Ok, quick question:
Plastic garment bags to store jackets,
Yea or Nay?
If Yea, which ones you use/recommend.
If Nay, what about moths? (I hate the smell of moth balls, it’s toxic).
Cheers.

Edit: Leather jackets I mean, obviously.

navetsea · Feb 13, 2021

Fonzie said:
Ok, quick question:
Plastic garment bags to store jackets,
Yea or Nay?
If Yea, which ones you use/recommend.
If Nay, what about moths? (I hate the smell of moth balls, it’s toxic).
Cheers.

Edit: Leather jackets I mean, obviously.

no plastic for me, I still believe leather is better when air pass through it, and also the way to make fermented food is by putting the food with yeast in closed container, if there is some spore of mold in your jacket by putting it in closed bag in the dark will make it grow fast.

Seb Lucas · Feb 13, 2021

Fonzie said:
Ok, quick question:
Plastic garment bags to store jackets,
Yea or Nay?
If Yea, which ones you use/recommend.
If Nay, what about moths? (I hate the smell of moth balls, it’s toxic).
Cheers.

Edit: Leather jackets I mean, obviously.

I was always told no plastic for leather - leather needs to breathe and can go mouldy - I have had that terrible experience. I throw some jackets into a large plastic lidded container with a ventilation hole covered in insect proof gauze/screen.

Monitor · Feb 13, 2021

jglf said:
How many inches do you think Vanson’s insulated quilted liner (sewn in, not removable snap in version) takes up in the chest roominess department? I want to size down to a 38, but the only measurements that cause me concern is the P2P size. The 40 with quilted insulated fits pretty good with no restrictions.

This pic makes the jacket look pretty bulky bc it is new and has the thick insulated liner. I also buckled the side straps pretty tight. The version I want to downsize will be made of a lighter weight leather than the competition weight and with their rayon lining.

View attachment 309227

As warm as it can be, I personally never found quilted lining to make nearly enough difference to affect a size of a leather jacket. Simply put, it isn't that thick. The jacket will feel about 5-10% tighter at most so I'd say you ought to stick to whatever size you naturally wear.

Cornelius · Feb 13, 2021

Fonzie said:
Ok, quick question:
Plastic garment bags to store jackets,
Yea or Nay?
If Yea, which ones you use/recommend.
If Nay, what about moths? (I hate the smell of moth balls, it’s toxic).
Cheers.

Edit: Leather jackets I mean, obviously.

Have a lot of wool in the house to get through the brutal winters of Great Lakes USA. So a couple of years ago I lined three closets in our house with thin chip panels of aromatic cedar. Each covers 32 sq. feet / ~3 sq. meters, cost me roughly USD$27 per panel, easy to install myself (trimmed with a power saw, installed with stainless steel panel nails). The clothing can "breathe," smells great, and I no longer have to worry about moth damage. I imagine a similar product might be available in Australia?

Sherlocklooms · Feb 13, 2021

Anybody interested in some sleuthing?

"Here we go: Standard and Strange just announced that they are carrying a new Japanese leather jacket brand called "Fountainhead Leather." I received a newsletter from S&S with a description of the Fountainhead Leather brand and the happenstance of how S&S staff met the "mysterious man" behind the brand in a smokey bar in Tokyo.

For your reading pleasure here is the text from that news letter:

"We met the owner of Fountainhead Leather by chance. It was 2am in a dark, smoky bar somewhere on a side street in Ebisu, Tokyo. In walks a man wearing a leather jacket that catches the eye of Jeremy and Neil. The jacket fits him like a second skin, it's worn to hell and has an intense patina and creasing that only comes from the best quality tea-core horsehide.

We get to talking with him, and he tells us he made the jacket himself. He's worked with leather jackets for decades, and he spent over two years developing the leather and working on the design. It's just a prototype, he tells us - there's still some work to do.

Upon first glance it looks like a standard D pocket jacket, but on closer inspection - it's full of details and unlike anything we've seen before. There's small studs on the outside of the cuffs, the collar lays perfectly after a few months of wear, and the D pocket has a slightly elongated shape, making the jacket look a little bit longer, and the wearer a little bit taller.

After chatting with us for a few minutes, he finished his drink and this mysterious man vanishes as quickly as he appeared. "I will contact you when my jacket is finished", he tells us before leaving.

As fate were to have it - he did contact us, and after a long back and forth, many samples shipped to us for review, and the all-too-familiar months long pandemic delay....we've received our first delivery from Fountainhead Leather, and damn are we excited about it."

I just happen to be doing some intensive research on Freewheelers and I think I'm close to buying their "La Brea" which looks lovely, subtle, and perfect. And I noticed that the Fountainhead Leather jackets look remarkably, if not completely, like a few Freewheelers jacket styles.

For comparison I've included screenshots of the Fountainhead Leather "Beta" in Burgundy color, and the Freewheelers "La Brea" in auburn. First three are Fountainhead, last three are Freewheelers. The last photo is of the La Brea in the Rude black color.

The d-pocket design, the main asymmetrical zipper slide, the studs on the sleeve, the hidden zip pockets, the leather panels in general, all the same.

For the Japanese leather experts on this forumn I would love to know what you make of this? I feel there has to be a little more to this story.

Screen Shot 2021-02-13 at 4.12.39 PM.png

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Marc mndt · Feb 13, 2021

Isn't Fountainhead leather run by the same guys that are behind Fine Creek leathers?

Mich486 · Feb 13, 2021

It’s not a Freewheelers design but a repro of a Leathertogs. Other makers do it. Although admittedly Freewheelers might have been the first to bring it back to life.

I’ve read the same somewhere about Fountainhead leathers being a spin off of some sort of Fine Creek. @Blackadder do you know more?

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