How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead · Mar 23, 2021

This one, oh boy, we'll see how it is. Never seen it before in the Schott line up. Reminds a lot of the Ridley except no belt loops and interestingly enough has side/back laces. Never had a D pocket before but was looking for something really clean like the Ridley that didn't have epaulettes or permanent belt. Most of the models from various makers have the belt and/or epaulettes. Hoping it's not usual Schott barrel sizing. It's in the PER line which I think is based more on vintage styles, so hoping it's cut a little tighter.

Robbie79 · Mar 23, 2021

With a bit of a delay - Shangri-La Heritage Suede Trucker handmade in Italia. More detailed review can be found here - https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/shangri-la-heritage.103541/page-3#post-2794642

HoosierDaddy · Mar 23, 2021

NICE !! Great fit Robbie.

JMax · Mar 23, 2021

Apparel Annex. Great thick and heavy leather on these. Distinct designs on all their MC jackets. I sold one a while back but the price on this was too good to pass up ($63). And I like the color.

Will Zach · Mar 23, 2021

^^
This is awesome. Even without the $63 price tag.

Graemsay · Mar 24, 2021

Marc mndt said:
I have no clue. I just hope we'll be able to travel again when it's finished so I can go pick it up on person.

It was nine months earlier this week, but has possibly blown out from there by now.

Superfluous · Mar 24, 2021

Marc mndt said:
I have been thinking about getting a nice racing shirt for some time. Not one that looks new and shiny but something with character. I really like the distressing on this Thedi so therefore Thedi was a strong contender. I'm not a huge fan of the two-slider zip and the ventilated side panels but those could easily be changed. However, I really prefer a racing shirt without side panels at all.

View attachment 320543 View attachment 320544

I love the look of this 60s Schott cafe racer so I asked Greg whether he could do a remake of it using the Route 66 as a base. I think Field Leathers' grainy Shinki will add just the right amount of character. He was happy to accept the project so I just ordered yet another Field Leathers

View attachment 320548 View attachment 320547 View attachment 320546

Why FL over Thedi? How do these two manufacturers compare?

Marc mndt · Mar 24, 2021

Superfluous said:
Why FL over Thedi? How do these two manufacturers compare?

In terms of style they're totally different of course. Thedi's style is unique. If I had to describe it I'd say a Thedi is a bit more fashion oriented whereas FL has more classic designs.

Build quality of both is extremely high. Both have flawless, laser sharp stitching. Thedi however uses some more advanced techniques. Edges are skived for instance plus they do French seams on a couple of their designs. A FL is basically built like an Aero but with higher stitch count. I do know Greg is working on improving his techniques. He recently bought a skiving machine which will allow him to make even neater seams. Left is FL, right is Thedi.

Thedi jackets have much more small details everywhere you look. Pockets, cuffs and collars are lined with corduroy, there's a small pen pocket inside, they stamp your name and the construction date on a piece of leather that they attach onto the inside of the pocket. Those kind of details.

In terms of leather choices and finishes, Thedi definitely has the upper hand. They have a lot of different hides, colors and finishes to choose from. And if they don't have it, Theodoros might source it. At FL your choices are very limited.

Why did I chose FL for this project?

1) Design.

-Thedi cafe racers have side panels which I don't really like.
-With FL you can add your own design elements: pocket placement, gussets, cuff style, zipper placement, extra panels, etc. For this project I thought it would be nice copy the design elements of a 60s Schott cafe racer.

2) Project experiences

-Working with Greg is an experience on its own. You don't just order a FL and wait for it to be delivered. Instead you extensively discuss design choices with Greg. You get a mock-up jacket which allows you to tweak the fit to perfection. Even during the build Greg sent me photos to confirm whether I wanted some detail this or that way.

3) Price

-A Thedi is roughly €400 more expensive than a FL (that is if you choose Shinki)

Biggest con right now is waiting time. I think there a 10 month waiting list if you order a FL today.

Does this answer your question?

Superfluous · Mar 24, 2021

Yes, thanks. I am seriously considering a new Thedi. I love his selection of leather. My problem is that most of his designs are too complicated. I prefer simple moto/half-belt cuts.

Mandarin · Mar 24, 2021

Marc mndt said:
In terms of style they're totally different of course. Thedi's style is unique. If I had to describe it I'd say a Thedi is a bit more fashion oriented whereas FL has more classic designs.

Build quality of both is extremely high. Both have flawless, laser sharp stitching. Thedi however uses some more advanced techniques. Edges are skived for instance plus they do French seams on a couple of their designs. A FL is basically built like an Aero but with higher stitch count. I do know Greg is working on improving his techniques. He recently bought a skiving machine which will allow him to make even neater seams. Left is FL, right is Thedi.

View attachment 320939

Thedi jackets have much more small details everywhere you look. Pockets, cuffs and collars are lined with corduroy, there's a small pen pocket inside, they stamp your name and the construction date on a piece of leather that they attach onto the inside of the pocket. Those kind of details.

In terms of leather choices and finishes, Thedi definitely has the upper hand. They have a lot of different hides, colors and finishes to choose from. And if they don't have it, Theodoros might source it. At FL your choices are very limited.

Why did I chose FL for this project?

1) Design.

-Thedi cafe racers have side panels which I don't really like.
-With FL you can add your own design elements: pocket placement, gussets, cuff style, zipper placement, extra panels, etc. For this project I thought it would be nice copy the design elements of a 60s Schott cafe racer.

2) Project experiences

-Working with Greg is an experience on its own. You don't just order a FL and wait for it to be delivered. Instead you extensively discuss design choices with Greg. You get a mock-up jacket which allows you to tweak the fit to perfection. Even during the build Greg sent me photos to confirm whether I wanted some detail this or that way.

3) Price

-A Thedi is roughly €400 more expensive than a FL (that is if you choose Shinki)

Biggest con right now is waiting time. I think there a 10 month waiting list if you order a FL today.

Does this answer your question?

I don't agree Thedi is more fashion oriented, at least not in the particular case of the racing shirt you posted. That one is a clear cut example of functional design: the double zip and perforated side panels make it an ideal summer jacket for riding a bike. Incidentally, it looks stunningly beautiful, which makes it appropriate to wear off the bike as well.

Marc mndt · Mar 24, 2021

Mandarin said:
I don't agree Thedi is more fashion oriented, at least not in the particular case of the racing shirt you posted. That one is a clear cut example of functional design: the double zip and perforated side panels make it an ideal summer jacket for riding a bike. Incidentally, it looks stunningly beautiful, which makes it appropriate to wear off the bike as well.

It is indeed a very functional design and those side panels do allow for a more fitted silhouette. 'Fashion' might have a wrong connotation. Maybe I should have used 'contemporary' instead of 'fashion' to describe the style.

jonbuilder · Mar 24, 2021

Marc mndt said:
I have been thinking about getting a nice racing shirt for some time. Not one that looks new and shiny but something with character. I really like the distressing on this Thedi so therefore Thedi was a strong contender. I'm not a huge fan of the two-slider zip and the ventilated side panels but those could easily be changed. However, I really prefer a racing shirt without side panels at all.

View attachment 320543 View attachment 320544

I love the look of this 60s Schott cafe racer so I asked Greg whether he could do a remake of it using the Route 66 as a base. I think Field Leathers' grainy Shinki will add just the right amount of character. He was happy to accept the project so I just ordered yet another Field Leathers

View attachment 320548 View attachment 320547 View attachment 320546

With all the vintage Racers floating on the market, why not grab one of them with real earned character.
? I realize you will not get the perfect bespoken suit fit

Marc mndt · Mar 24, 2021

jonbuilder said:
With all the vintage Racers floating on the market, why not grab one of them with real earned character.
? I realize you will not get the perfect bespoken suit fit

There's not that many vintage cafe racers on the European market. I would almost say they're rare. Also, the ones that are available 99% are from the 80s or newer.

Right now there's one for sale in France for €300. I think it's 70s. However, judging by the photo's the leather is not half as nice as my 60s Schott.

Compare the one above to mine from the 60

I really love the shape of it but it's one size too big.

I've been looking for months but there's nothing that comes even close to this one. So yes, I would like one with real earned character but I think it's pretty much impossible to find one.

Also, It's great fun to do a recreation project like this. Searching for matching zipper sliders, lining and leather.

@jonbuilder Please share links if they're floating the American market. I'm willing to pay import fees for a really nice one.

Edit : typo

JMax · Mar 24, 2021

Marc mndt said:
There's not that many vintage cafe racers on the European market. I would almost say they're rare. Also, the ones that are available 99% are from the 80s or newer.

Right now there's one for sale in France for €300. I think it's 70s. However, judging by the photo's the leather is not half as nice as my 60s Schott.

View attachment 320967 View attachment 320966 View attachment 320968

Compare the one above to mine from the 60

View attachment 320969

I really love the shape of it but it's one size too big.

View attachment 320970

I've been looking for months but there's nothing that comes even close to this one. So yes, I would like one with real earned character but I think it's pretty much impossible to find one.

Also, It's great fun to do a recreation project like this. Searching for matching zipper sliders, lining and leather.

View attachment 320973

@jonbuilder Please share links if they're floating the American market. I'm willing to pay import fees for a really nice one.

Edit : typo

You are a size 40-42?

I like the picture of the zips.

58panheadfan · Mar 24, 2021

Superfluous said:
Yes, thanks. I am seriously considering a new Thedi. I love his selection of leather. My problem is that most of his designs are too complicated. I prefer simple moto/half-belt cuts.

You have a very nice collection of leather jackets but as you already mentioned, all in the same style, simple moto / half-belt cut. Why not take a slightly different direction for a Jacket? Thedis leather jackets can also be custom made.

Marc mndt · Mar 24, 2021

JMax said:
You are a size 40-42?

I like the picture of the zips.

42

jonbuilder · Mar 24, 2021

Marc mndt said:
There's not that many vintage cafe racers on the European market. I would almost say they're rare. Also, the ones that are available 99% are from the 80s or newer.

Right now there's one for sale in France for €300. I think it's 70s. However, judging by the photo's the leather is not half as nice as my 60s Schott.

View attachment 320967 View attachment 320966 View attachment 320968

Compare the one above to mine from the 60

View attachment 320969

I really love the shape of it but it's one size too big.

View attachment 320970

I've been looking for months but there's nothing that comes even close to this one. So yes, I would like one with real earned character but I think it's pretty much impossible to find one.

Also, It's great fun to do a recreation project like this. Searching for matching zipper sliders, lining and leather.

View attachment 320973

@jonbuilder Please share links if they're floating the American market. I'm willing to pay import fees for a really nice one.

Edit : typo

You make a good point you might want to look for early Bates the people who left Buco after Joseph sold out. I am still looking for a early Taubers hard to find in our size.

MrProper · Mar 24, 2021

Just arrived. Very happy.

handymike · Mar 24, 2021

jonbuilder said:
You make a good point you might want to look for early Bates the people who left Buco and Joseph sold out. I am still looking for a early Taubers hard to find in our size.

So Bates and Taubers both originated at Buco?
I knew of the Brooks, Reed, Kehoe connection but not those.

Will Zach · Mar 24, 2021

"The TFL Relapse Disease" is waaaay more contagious than coronavirus. And there is no vaccine...

Based on recent posts by @Marc mndt, I looked stateside for 60's Schott racers and seem to have found one my size (fear not Marc, I wear 1-2 sizes smaller than you, so no competition). I am a sucker for the slanted breast pockets, and looking forward to receiving this jacket:

How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

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