Most Thoughtful Jacket Design Features

• Apr 5, 2021

• #1

Moontanning

One of the Regulars

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158

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Philadelphia

What are the most thoughtful design features of your jackets? Maybe it's something subtle, maybe it's more integral to the overall design. Maybe it's something an old favorite of yours had which you wish was also on your current jackets. I have my own "wish list" but would love to hear from others on what took your jackets from good to great, made it more durable, practical, special, or just plain made life easier.

For example, I see many others here experiencing what I have in the past of sleeve zippers catching on or scratching watches. I would consider moving them under instead of on top or doing what I've seen with bespoke suits and make the watch wrist opening just a little bigger to accommodate the watch more easily.

 

• Apr 5, 2021

• #2

handymike

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SoCal

I love how on certain vintage jackets the sleeve ends are angled slightly. This allows for full motion of your thumb while giving the same distance for your pinkie finger. It feels and looks right to me, and most modern makers don’t do it.

 

• Apr 5, 2021

• #3

Pandemic

One Too Many

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In The Flat Field

Using a thinner leather on the wrist gusset so it doesn't bunch up so much when fully zipped.

 

• Apr 5, 2021

• #4

handymike

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10,984

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SoCal

Or doing a windflap style like the Indian Ranger.

 

• Apr 5, 2021

• #5

JMax

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10,264

Snap by the zipper’s bottom stop. To take pressure off the tape when seated.

 

• Apr 5, 2021

• #6

handymike

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SoCal

Kehoe actually sewed their male zipper pin angled out a bit to make it easier to zip up the jacket.

I also appreciate the little pen holder that Thedi puts on his inside pocket.

 

• Apr 5, 2021

• #7

JMax

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10,264

handymike said:

Kehoe actually sewed their male zipper pin angled out a bit to make it easier to zip up the jacket.

I also appreciate the little pen holder that Thedi puts on his inside pocket.

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Some Vanson have the pen holder, very handy. Vanson also can sew a small snap keychain into larger pockets to make it easier to get to keys. They just dangle by the opening. Pretty cool.

 

• Apr 5, 2021

• #8

Monitor

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16,459

Shoulder gussets a la Cal Leathers. It's a miracle how much of a game-changer well designed gussets can be.

 

• Apr 5, 2021

• #9

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up

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5,330

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Iowa

I like shirt-style collars that snap-down. Great for use on a Motorcycle, or even in a Convertable car.

I also still dig western "V-yokes" however they have gotten so popular that the appear seems to have faded a bit, for me at least.

 

• Apr 5, 2021

• #10

ton312

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17,133

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Chicago

I like features that hide functionality. These pockets on my latest jacket are fully functional but are tight to the body, giving a sort of French seam illusion of being sewn shut. Little tromp l'oeil like this built into jackets always makes me happy.

 

• Apr 5, 2021

• #11

navetsea

I'll Lock Up

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East Java

Why makers only make gussets on the back panel and stop at the side panel? Would give a lot more mobility if the gusset is continued on the side panel too.

 

• Apr 5, 2021

• #12

navetsea

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East Java

I like the inside pocket on usually longer type 3 denim jacket made from handwarmer's pocket bag.

 

• Apr 5, 2021

• #13

HoosierDaddy

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15,563

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East Central Indiana

Thedi: Inside pocket zip and my name plus date jacket was finished....

 

• Apr 6, 2021

• #14

Graemsay

Practically Family

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991

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Melbourne

I think that a lot of jackets end up being too complicated, and that you'd be better served by stripping away features. The designs that I'm leaning towards at the moment are those with fewer pockets, no gussets, unlined, and generally simpler and more minimalist.

The unlined Himel Kensington that I posted a few weeks ago is the sort of thing that I'm looking at these days.

 

• Apr 6, 2021

• #15

HoosierDaddy

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East Central Indiana

Wouldn't an unlined jacket be very 'clingy' and difficult to take off and put on? Never could understand the desire for an unlined jacket. Change my mind.
HD

 

• Apr 6, 2021

• #16

ton312

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17,133

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Chicago

HoosierDaddy said:

Wouldn't an unlined jacket be very 'clingy' and difficult to take off and put on? Never could understand the desire for an unlined jacket. Change my mind.
HD

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Works with a t shirt or no shirt underneath. I had a really lovely type III that was unlined. It was more a shirt than a jacket as the lack of liner made it next to impossible to put on over a long sleeve shirt. If I did wrestle my way in...took 10 minutes to get out.

 

• Apr 6, 2021

• #17

navetsea

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East Java

Not a fan of suede on skin feel, but I like pocketless jacket.

Btw is there a reason against putting leather facing all around the lining? Thats is always my standard config

I feel it prolongs the life of the liner, especially on the back of the collar and back of the hem from getting chewed on from grinding against another clothes.

 

• Apr 6, 2021

• #18

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here

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3,484

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California

I really like the horizontal “gun pocket” as seen on the G-1 and many other jackets. So much easier to access with the jacket zipped up partway and something I specify on all of my jackets when given the choice.

 

• Apr 6, 2021

• #19

Graemsay

Practically Family

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991

Location

Melbourne

HoosierDaddy said:

Wouldn't an unlined jacket be very 'clingy' and difficult to take off and put on? Never could understand the desire for an unlined jacket. Change my mind.
HD

Click to expand...

I've not owned one, but I've never had a problem getting into them when I've tried them on. However, they probably work best in rough out with the grain side providing a smoother surface.

I always put holes in liners in a short order. I had an Aero Veste de Rallye, and I wore through the Alpaca in next to no time. So removing them should increase a jacket's durability. Plus it's pretty warm in Australia: Melbourne has a similar climate to SF, Sydney's is like LA. So there's a desire to keep outwear lighter and cooler.

They're not good for motorcycling. The raw leather can catch on your skin in an off, a liner helps it slide better and reduces injuries.

 

• Apr 6, 2021

• #20

Moontanning

One of the Regulars

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158

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Philadelphia

navetsea said:

Not a fan of suede on skin feel, but I like pocketless jacket.

Btw is there a reason against putting leather facing all around the lining? Thats is always my standard config
View attachment 324586
I feel it prolongs the life of the liner, especially on the back of the collar and back of the hem from getting chewed on from grinding against another clothes.

Click to expand...

I very much appreciate this feature in a jacket as well. Maybe it’s to keep cost down by using less leather?