Vintage Millinery Singer Sewing Machines (Sweatbands, Binding, Ribbons, ETC)

deadlyhandsome · Apr 10, 2021

Zephyr Union said:
Humanshoes you’re the fucking man !!! Been trying to figure this out for the better part of a year, & will make this investment in a 107 clone start to make sense !!

There’s a lot of us here who hold Rick @humanshoes in high regard. I was in a hat shop a while back and I was wearing my Phoenix in Willow. The man working the store exclaimed that it was the nicest hat he ever saw and speculated what I must have cost as a custom made hat. His estimate was high...five times higher than the actual price. The only defeat Rick and I ever experienced was a green nutria felt that wasn’t dyed properly by the felter...and there’s still hope that it can be salvaged.

belfastboy · Apr 10, 2021

deadlyhandsome said:
There’s a lot of us here who hold Rick @humanshoes in high regard. I was in a hat shop a while back and I was wearing my Phoenix in Willow. The man working the store exclaimed that it was the nicest hat he ever saw and speculated what I must have cost as a custom made hat. His estimate was high...five times higher than the actual price. The only defeat Rick and I ever experienced was a green nutria felt that wasn’t dyed properly by the felter...and there’s still hope that it can be salvaged.

Yep, I haven't told Rick this (don't want to embarrass him) but he is my inspiration and role model. If I ever grow up want to be like him.

humanshoes · Apr 11, 2021

deadlyhandsome said:
There’s a lot of us here who hold Rick @humanshoes in high regard. I was in a hat shop a while back and I was wearing my Phoenix in Willow. The man working the store exclaimed that it was the nicest hat he ever saw and speculated what I must have cost as a custom made hat. His estimate was high...five times higher than the actual price. The only defeat Rick and I ever experienced was a green nutria felt that wasn’t dyed properly by the felter...and there’s still hope that it can be salvaged.

That's damn nice of you to say Brent. You just made my day old friend.

humanshoes · Apr 11, 2021

belfastboy said:
Yep, I haven't told Rick this (don't want to embarrass him) but he is my inspiration and role model. If I ever grow up want to be like him.

Considered me both embarrassed and honored Robert. Your words warm my crusty old heart.
To quote my role model, Peter Pan, "If growing up means it would be beneath my dignity to climb a tree, I'll never grow up, never grow up, never grow up. Not me!"

humanshoes · Apr 11, 2021

Zephyr Union said:
What’s going on in the first pic , it wont seem to load....

The first pic is the one with the red ruler. Good luck to you Zephyr.

Zephyr Union · Apr 11, 2021

humanshoes said:
The first pic is the one with the red ruler. Good luck to you Zephyr.

Yeah thank you @humanshoes owe ya one, been trying to figure this out for awhile! Are you still making hats yourself?

T Jones · Apr 11, 2021

Gotta say, I learned something from Rick reading through this thread this morning. I was putting a sweat band together for a project I'm working on and saw where Rick advised to crimp the ferrule in the middle. I was always crimping mine on the ends. It worked that way keeping the reed in place but it flared the ends of the ferrule out a little and made it a bit harder to get it to slide inside the reed tape. I tried Rick's way, and, easy peasy! Thanks Kemosabie!

With that said, I cut my reed just a tad longer than Rick does. For me, and this is just my preferred way, I like cutting mine at 11/16 longer than the sweat. I've seen some cut theirs at 5/8 longer, and I've seen others cut theirs the very same way Rick does. Whatever works. Everyone has their own preferred way.

It gives me a pretty good flare to where I'm confident in myself that my reed will be sitting on the brim at the opening. Again, that's just my own personal preference....

humanshoes · Apr 12, 2021

Zephyr Union said:
Yeah thank you @humanshoes owe ya one, been trying to figure this out for awhile! Are you still making hats yourself?

Your welcome Z. I'm still chipping away at the last few hats in the custom queue and will decide where to go from there. The cobbler's art is calling me pretty strongly right now. I'm working on my first pair of custom shoes in my spare time so we'll see how it goes. I try never to cross a bridge before I get to it or to burn the one behind me.

humanshoes · Apr 12, 2021

T Jones said:
Gotta say, I learned something from Rick reading through this thread this morning. I was putting a sweat band together for a project I'm working on and saw where Rick advised to crimp the ferrule in the middle. I was always crimping mine on the ends. It worked that way keeping the reed in place but it flared the ends of the ferrule out a little and made it a bit harder to get it to slide inside the reed tape. I tried Rick's way, and, easy peasy! Thanks Kemosabie!

With that said, I cut my reed just a tad longer than Rick does. For me, and this is just my preferred way, I like cutting mine at 11/16 longer than the sweat. I've seen some cut theirs at 5/8 longer, and I've seen others cut theirs the very same way Rick does. Whatever works. Everyone has their own preferred way.

It gives me a pretty good flare to where I'm confident in myself that my reed will be sitting on the brim at the opening. Again, that's just my own personal preference....

I learned the ferrule dealio from Jim at JW Hats when he was still with us. He was a wealth of information and was always willing to take the time to share it. I actually trim my reeds a little longer as well, but I think 1/2" is a good minimum depending on the hatter's preference.

deadlyhandsome · Apr 12, 2021

humanshoes said:
Your welcome Z. I'm still chipping away at the last few hats in the custom queue and will decide where to go from there. The cobbler's art is calling me pretty strongly right now. I'm working on my first pair of custom shoes in my spare time so we'll see how it goes. I try never to cross a bridge before I get to it or to burn the one behind me.

Custom shoes did you say.... Is there a queue I can get in?

T Jones · Apr 12, 2021

humanshoes said:
I learned the ferrule dealio from Jim at JW Hats when he was still with us. He was a wealth of information and was always willing to take the time to share it. I actually trim my reeds a little longer as well, but I think 1/2" is a good minimum depending on the hatter's preference.

I really like that ferrule tip. That was so much easier than the way I was doing it. Thanks for sharing that! Poor ol' JW. I had a few good conversations with him. I used to buy my sweat bands from JW. Brian, from Sullivan Hat Company bought the sweat business after JW passed away. That's who I buy my sweats from now. They're nice and comfortable, and durable. I hated when he passed away. I also developed a good friendship with Mark Havens and we'd talk on the phone weekly. I remember texting him some pictures one day of a hat I did, and no response. I tried calling him, and no answer. Not long after, someone posted on the Lounge that he passed away suddenly. I was shocked. That's another good one who's gone.

belfastboy · Apr 12, 2021

T Jones said:
I really like that ferrule tip. That was so much easier than the way I was doing it. Thanks for sharing that! Poor ol' JW. I had a few good conversations with him. I used to buy my sweat bands from JW. Brian, from Sullivan Hat Company bought the sweat business after JW passed away. That's who I buy my sweats from now. They're nice and comfortable, and durable. I hated when he passed away. I also developed a good friendship with Mark Havens and we'd talk on the phone weekly. I remember texting him some pictures one day of a hat I did, and no response. I tried calling him, and no answer. Not long after, someone posted on the Lounge that he passed away suddenly. I was shocked. That's another good one who's gone.

I have just one of Mark's hats....it is a good one!

Zephyr Union · Apr 12, 2021

humanshoes said:
Your welcome Z. I'm still chipping away at the last few hats in the custom queue and will decide where to go from there. The cobbler's art is calling me pretty strongly right now. I'm working on my first pair of custom shoes in my spare time so we'll see how it goes. I try never to cross a bridge before I get to it or to burn the one behind me.

That’s groovy , I’ve been wanting to learn boot making as well for quite some time! I also goldsmith ,as well as hatting.

Zephyr Union · Apr 12, 2021

humanshoes said:
Your welcome Z. I'm still chipping away at the last few hats in the custom queue and will decide where to go from there. The cobbler's art is calling me pretty strongly right now. I'm working on my first pair of custom shoes in my spare time so we'll see how it goes. I try never to cross a bridge before I get to it or to burn the one behind me.

Last hat I’ll make without a proper bell !!!

humanshoes · Apr 12, 2021

deadlyhandsome said:
Custom shoes did you say.... Is there a queue I can get in?

View attachment 326191 View attachment 326192 View attachment 326193

It all started out with the purchase of this hand operated Junker & Ruh shoe sole stitching machine.

I love the old iron, and this machine looked to cool not to have, so now I'm forced to learn to put it to good use. You may never want to get in this particular queue though my friend. I expect my first attempts to look something like this.

Bamaboots · Apr 12, 2021

humanshoes said:
It all started out with the purchase of this hand operated Junker & Ruh shoe sole stitching machine. View attachment 326291 I love the old iron, and this machine looked to cool not to have, so now I'm forced to learn to put it to good use. You may never want to get in this particular queue though my friend. I expect my first attempts to look something like this.
View attachment 326293

Good luck with that, Rick. Remember, the last comes first.

humanshoes · Apr 12, 2021

Bamaboots said:
Good luck with that, Rick. Remember, the last comes first.

Haha! I see what you did there. Funny, but true. As with hat making, it all starts with the proper mold(s).
These are my first lasts...

Zephyr Union · Apr 12, 2021

humanshoes said:
Haha! I see what you did there. Funny, but true. As with hat making, it all starts with the proper mold(s).
These are my first lasts...
View attachment 326335

Where are you located @humanshoes ?

ChicagoWayVito · Apr 13, 2021

humanshoes said:
Haha! I see what you did there. Funny, but true. As with hat making, it all starts with the proper mold(s).
These are my first lasts...
View attachment 326335

This is too coincidental, I have been considering learning the cobbler's art as well and been researching it for the past 2 years. I know though that my wife would divorce me if I started another hobby

You should check out Sveta Kletina on youtube: Sveta Kletina - YouTube
She also has an online course, that is $1,000 and you get access to all the videos she has listed for 1 year. How To Make Shoes? Watch and Download My Shoemaking Courses

(shoemakingcoursesonline.com)

I'll share some other links when I find them again. You might be tempted to invest in a new boot sewing machine

Seems like those that like making men's hats also have an inclination to do leather work and cobbling!! Good luck and I can't wait to see your shoes/boots.

T Jones · Apr 13, 2021

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