humanshoes
One Too Many
- Messages
- 1,428
- Location
- Tennessee
This is all they are. 1/16" x 1/2" spring pins.
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-9...7YPXJZJ6Z9A&psc=1&refRID=T18WNYB1X7YPXJZJ6Z9A
They can also be had in stainless steel.
-
The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.
Hat making?? Learning Millinery..
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-9...7YPXJZJ6Z9A&psc=1&refRID=T18WNYB1X7YPXJZJ6Z9A
They can also be had in stainless steel.
- Messages
- 19,124
- Location
- Funkytown, USA
Cheaper than my suggestion!
- Messages
- 10,391
- Location
- vancouver, canada
This is for Scooterz. Pics of comparison: Agnoulita Carmel middle, two Win chester beaver Pecan, Winchester beaver Camel right side, the two Pecan are left and on top of the Carmel. The left Pecan is from a decade ago, the top is recent. Two very different colours....it is not just the light. The Agnoulita is a softer beige/brown, the Camel has more yellow in it. ....both good colours.
Scooterz
Practically Family
- Messages
- 846
- Location
- The Great Plains
Thanks. Very interesting the difference in the pecan felts over time. I like the carmel. Did you make the camel hat with the curl?
- Messages
- 10,391
- Location
- vancouver, canada
No, that is an older one that Mike @ NW Hats made for me. The Carmel coloured felt will be a clone of it for a client except going with a dark olive ribbon.
- Messages
- 10,391
- Location
- vancouver, canada
Here is the block that to m y eye is close to that Stetson block.
Scooterz
Practically Family
- Messages
- 846
- Location
- The Great Plains
THANKS. What is the name/number of that block?
- Messages
- 10,391
- Location
- vancouver, canada
It is a standard offering from Hat Blocks Poland (Etsy) model #G0363
- Messages
- 10,391
- Location
- vancouver, canada
Here is a picture of my first attempt at venting. I have an order for venting but wanted to try it out on a hat of my own first. If the client likes the pattern it is full speed ahead. He wants venting on the sides as well.
humanshoes
One Too Many
- Messages
- 1,428
- Location
- Tennessee
Nice work there Robert.
- Messages
- 10,391
- Location
- vancouver, canada
The question looms large.....can I repeat it?
humanshoes
One Too Many
- Messages
- 1,428
- Location
- Tennessee
Quality, uniform, repetitive results will definitely make you a fine craftsman Robert. Add to that an eye towards individual expression and personal creativity and you will become an artist.
- Messages
- 10,391
- Location
- vancouver, canada
Thank you!
Hi, great question and answers. I'm trying to perfect my fitting-skills too.
With this sample, how long would you cut the sweatband then?
And which angle do you cut it?
Greetz to y'all!!
- Messages
- 10,391
- Location
- vancouver, canada
I am a size 59cm....so block on a 60cm block. I cut my sweats to 59cm at the reed then 'drum' them by cutting back at an angle of about 5 degrees each side. I have a set of band blocks in centimetres and use these as sizing checks for the sweats. I tape the ends together, check the fit on the band block before stitching the ends together.
Perfect! I think i need to start collecting band blocks...thats the best way for me I think. It always not easy with oval heads or extremly round...fitting is an art itself, I've got that feeling.
I have now a loooot of half sizes 56,5 cm and so on...how do you handle those.
Thanks for the angle!!!! I was searching for this for months. <3 <3 <3
- Messages
- 10,391
- Location
- vancouver, canada
I have learnt thru trial and error that getting the felt blocked to the right size makes everything downstream of that flow so much smoother. I have a few blocks in half sizes but not the entire range. If I add a layer of duct tape (thicker Gorilla tape works well) to the block it adds a 1/2cm. It wqorks well unless the felt is very thin then there is a risk of the line showing. I use a layer of painter's tape first as that facilitates the removal of the duct tape. I then add a layer closer to the top where the block begins to taper.....the taper makes it impossible to apply the duct tape flat so I only tape about half way up until the taper begins then use a top layer of the painter's tape to lessen the ridge created by the duct tape. Then the properly sized leather sweat should just drop into the blocked felt with a perfect fit. If it doesn't it tends to cause a ton of problems as I attempt to sew the sweat in place. Get the fit right and it should just flow. I cut my own band blocks out of 2x8" planks....using my blocks as the footprint, cut by scroll saw then a bench edge sander to finish to size. Costs about a dollar for the wood and then time.
jlee562
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 5,054
- Location
- San Francisco, CA
The nice thing about having a smaller head size is that I can eek out a 6" crown and 3" brim from this dress weight FEPSA beaver in moonshine.
This is my new Randal Alan #52 block. Good profile on this one, compares favorably to the vintage block I have.
This is my new Randal Alan #52 block. Good profile on this one, compares favorably to the vintage block I have.
- Messages
- 17,243
- Location
- Maryland
Austrian Master Hat Maker Examination Regulations, Version as of June 30, 1997
https://www.ris.bka.gv.at/GeltendeF...Gesetzesnummer=10006799&FassungVom=1997-06-30
https://www.ris.bka.gv.at/GeltendeF...Gesetzesnummer=10006799&FassungVom=1997-06-30
- Messages
- 10,391
- Location
- vancouver, canada
I thought I should post this here as well. This my 'new iron'...picked up on Ebay ....listed as a door stop. Shipping cost me more than the item itself but then it weighs 20lbs. I heat it on the hot plate for 15-20 minutes and it is my low cost version of a brim press.
