Abercrombie & Fitch chamois leather sporting trousers... teens/20s?

• Sep 19, 2014

• #1

vintage.vendeuse

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I'm thinking these are pretty old but would love some opinions, please. If you look very closely, the font on the label is more curlicue than a similar label used in the 50s. The trousers are chamois leather, not fabric. The buttons are silk-covered and on the back is printed S. & U. KOBENHAVN (with a slash through the O). The buttonholes are bound. I actually have two pair of these trousers though the second pair is quite dirty on the seat. Can chamois leather be laundered? For what activity would these trouser have been worn? What are the loops on the front waist used for? Thanks for any assistance.

 

Last edited: Sep 20, 2014

• Sep 20, 2014

• #2

Renault

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Sure look like buckskin or doeskin breeches to me! But very cool and appreciate the photos!

 

• Sep 20, 2014

• #3

vintage.vendeuse

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Renault said:

Sure look like buckskin or doeskin breeches to me! But very cool and appreciate the photos!

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Thanks, I'll look that up. Any guesses on age or what these pants would be used for?
Editing to add: They seem rather delicate for riding...

 

Last edited: Sep 20, 2014

• Sep 21, 2014

• #4

MattieA65

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I am no expert, but might they be for fencing?

 

• Sep 21, 2014

• #5

scotrace

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Dinerman will be here, surely. He'll know.

 

• Sep 21, 2014

• #6

vintage.vendeuse

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MattieA65 said:

I am no expert, but might they be for fencing?

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Believe it or not, that actually occurred to me but I can't find any info in that direction, either.

scotrace said:

Dinerman will be here, surely. He'll know.

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I do hope so!

Editing to add: The length seems long for riding breeches. These would reach the ankles. (Though jodhpurs are ankle-length, I don't think they'd typically have a tie at the ankle.)

 

Last edited: Sep 21, 2014

• Sep 21, 2014

• #7

Dinerman

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They're constructed like underwear of the period, with the tie adjuster in back. The loops are called "brace tapes" in the UK. Not sure what the US equivalent of the term is, but they were there to connect the long johns to your pants/suspenders. That indicates that these were worn as a layer underneath other clothes, possibly for wind resistance. That sort of crossover closure is often seen on fireman's pants and early motorcycle clothing- it's the equivalent of a double breasted jacket- there to keep the wind out and a secure closure. I haven't seen it on anything like this. They're probably Chamois, like you say, which was used commonly on outdoor clothing of this type.

 

• Sep 22, 2014

• #8

vintage.vendeuse

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Dinerman said:

They're constructed like underwear of the period, with the tie adjuster in back. The loops are called "brace tapes" in the UK. Not sure what the US equivalent of the term is, but they were there to connect the long johns to your pants/suspenders. That indicates that these were worn as a layer underneath other clothes, possibly for wind resistance. That sort of crossover closure is often seen on fireman's pants and early motorcycle clothing- it's the equivalent of a double breasted jacket- there to keep the wind out and a secure closure. I haven't seen it on anything like this. They're probably Chamois, like you say, which was used commonly on outdoor clothing of this type.

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Wow, I never would have come up with the idea of an undergarment, thank you! Archive.org has the full text of the 1916 A&F catalog and it does mention a selection of washable chamois garments, "Light, soft and pliable and washes perfectly without hardening. A great protection against wind and cold, especially desirable on account of its lightness and small bulk." Among the garments offered are drawers, both knee-length and full-length. I suppose it's likely that they offered these garments for years. Dinerman, do you have any thoughts on the age of my long johns?

And once I knew what I was looking for, I found a photo of a similar pair, in "perforated chamois", with matching shirt, dated 1870:

 

Last edited: Sep 22, 2014

• Sep 22, 2014

• #9

Dinerman

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Hard to be positive. 1920s?

 

• Sep 22, 2014

• #10

vintage.vendeuse

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Thanks again, Dinerman.

Since A&F claims they are washable, I may give it a go with the dirtier pair and see what happens.

 

• Sep 25, 2014

• #11

vintage.vendeuse

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A helpful member of another forum I frequent has solved the mystery. She kindly posted a page of her 1946 Von Lengerke & Antoine catalog which contains this very item! For those who may not know, A&F acquired VL&A of Chicago in 1928 but VL&A continued to operate under their own name until they became an A&F store around 1960 (at which time "Chicago" was added to the A&F label). During these years, VL&A sold the same items as A&F.

Editing to add: So, my chamois drawers were likely sold around the same time as these (mid-1940s), but out of the A&F store in New York, not VL&A.

 

Last edited: Sep 27, 2014

• Sep 25, 2014

• #12

Renault

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Thank for the update. Quite the mystery and I'm glad you were able to get an answer. Most interesting!!!

 

• May 18, 2021

• #13

GHT

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I wouldn't have believed that you would make trousers out of chamois leather. But chamois leather shirts, they are something else. I have two.