Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

Peacoat · Feb 27, 2021

And I should have said that if you would be willing to pay $100 for an item, and you bid that amount, you won't necessarily pay $100. If another bidder, or bidders, bid a maximum of $27 on our hypothetical item, you would only pay $28.

I have an extra vintage size 34 that is my wife's coat. It is too big for her and is for sale, but I won't sell it to you because it would be too small for you. The chest would be too tight and the sleeves and body too short. As I have told you before, a 36 or a 38 might be your best bet.

BigBrother · Feb 27, 2021

I really need to read up on eBay, to understand how max bids work and whatnot. I thought once you place a bid that’s the price you’ll pay, similar to a traditional auction.

Re: the 34, no worries, but that will be the next size I’ll be purchasing. With my 38” chest, I’ve tried on a size 36 with a 20” p2p and it was too large. DrMacabre’s post just now is a perfect example. He has the same chest as me and posed in his new 36. That to me is not a trim fit, at least not the trim fit I’m going for. (If he were to take his hands out of his pockets and pose in a neutral stance, the coat would be too large and bulky for my taste.) Also notice you said it’s a trim fit without a sweater underneath but he is wearing a sweater (not a thick one, but a sweater nonetheless), so imagine that coat on top of just a t shirt. To me that wouldn’t be a trim fit, but to each their own. For comparison, this is the look/trimness I’m going for:

https://images.app.goo.gl/RZUJ9WGhtzNatKeK6

Now that there obviously is a thinner material more akin to a suit, and in a thick wool of a peacoat I don’t expect the same sharp lines and silhouette, but if you see this 34 here on the man:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wool-peaco...-VTG-34R-Vintage-pea-coat-double/363253807786

you see almost exactly what I’m after. That slim, fitted look but in the thickness of a peacoat. I’m not positive that will be the final result, but given the vintage 36 I tried on was too large, it’s my last option.

Recyclops · Mar 4, 2021

I’ve been on the hunt for a peacoat and was ready to pull the trigger on a more vintage version made of 100% Melton wool. After, so serious thought, I realized that if I’m going to use my peacoat for more than a few days a year hear in Southern California, I’ll need a peacoat that is lighter in weight?
Can anyone recommend me a lighter weight wool peacoat that is not so trendy and does not sacrifice quality?
Thanks.

Peacoat · Mar 4, 2021

Recyclops said:
I’ve been on the hunt for a peacoat and was ready to pull the trigger on a more vintage version made of 100% Melton wool. After, so serious thought, I realized that if I’m going to use my peacoat for more than a few days a year hear in Southern California, I’ll need a peacoat that is lighter in weight?
Can anyone recommend me a lighter weight wool peacoat that is not so trendy and does not sacrifice quality?
Thanks.

Actually, if it was a vintage model, it probably would have had a Kersey shell and not the Melton. Although there were some contracts in the 70s that used Melton. Most of those are labeled "Melton" but not all of them. Kersey is the superior material.

During the winter your temps will be in the mid 60s during the daytime. A peacoat would be way too warm. At night you will have some nights with lows in the upper 40s — low 50s. That is peacoat weather, but just barely.

For a vintage peacoat guide, please see the link below. Sorry, but I don't know anything about the civilian "peacoats."

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-dating-the-united-states-navy-peacoat.72058/

Gromperekichelchen · Mar 24, 2021

Hello there,
I recently bought a vintage peacoat in good condition and would like some help dating it.
I found a great guide out here from a reputable source and would say it is pre-1946, correct? Unfortunately, the label has been cut off. However, there is a little tag underneath the usual "naval clothing company" label.
Does someone know the meaning of it? The tag picture was taken upside down.
Thanks in advance

Peacoat · Mar 24, 2021

Gromperekichelchen said:
Hello there,
I recently bought a vintage peacoat in good condition and would like some help dating it.
I found a great guide out here from a reputable source and would say it is pre-1946, correct? Unfortunately, the label has been cut off. However, there is a little tag underneath the usual "naval clothing company" label.
Does someone know the meaning of it? The tag picture was taken upside down.
Thanks in advance
View attachment 321019 View attachment 321018 View attachment 321020

Without the tag, the closest I can get is between 1938 and 1945. This is the WWII style peacoat.

Don't know which dating guide you used, but there is one here on TFL written by the world's foremost authority on US Navy peacoats. I have linked it below.

Welcome to the Lounge.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-dating-the-united-states-navy-peacoat.72058/

Gromperekichelchen · Mar 24, 2021

Thanks again for the support, I think that's the guide I read

Mark R · May 24, 2021

Well I’ve just got into Peacoats. I purchased one from 1956 a month or so ago in what I can only describe as flawless condition ( it did cost me) could not believe the quality. Just purchased another WW2 coat which again looks in great condition from the photo’s from the US and waiting for it to arrive. I’m so glad I started looking in the US, WW2 coats in top condition were as high as £345 on the UK site. Mine cost £85 plus taxes and posted from the US.

Peacoat · May 24, 2021

Mark R said:
Well I’ve just got into Peacoats. I purchased one from 1956 a month or so ago in what I can only describe as flawless condition ( it did cost me) could not believe the quality. Just purchased another WW2 coat which again looks in great condition from the photo’s from the US and waiting for it to arrive. I’m so glad I started looking in the US, WW2 coats in top condition were as high as £345 on the UK site. Mine cost £85 plus taxes and posted from the US.

£345 seems exorbitant. Glad you got it at a reasonable price.

Mark R · May 25, 2021

Peacoat said:
£345 seems exorbitant. Glad you got it at a reasonable price.

I guess asking these prices and actually selling at that level are two different things. Most of the pricing in the US is more realistic. I know I paid top money for the 1956 coat, that started at £240 and I purchased at £190 but that was from a guy who only specialised in vintage clothing in the very best condition. He had it dry cleaned and you could literally hang it in an upmarket store and sell it as new, I can’t see any wear at all including the collar and cuffs, I don’t think it was actually ever worn.

Sonero · May 25, 2021

Mark R said:
I guess asking these prices and actually selling at that level are two different things. Most of the pricing in the US is more realistic. I know I paid top money for the 1956 coat, that started at £240 and I purchased at £190 but that was from a guy who only specialised in vintage clothing in the very best condition. He had it dry cleaned and you could literally hang it in an upmarket store and sell it as new, I can’t see any wear at all including the collar and cuffs, I don’t think it was actually ever worn.

I purchased a few peacoats off Ebay last year and I never paid above $100. All are authentic vintage in great shape with superior quality.

The catch is I purchased them during the summer ! I notice they tend to get more expensive once the weather turns cooler....at least on Ebay.

Mark R · May 26, 2021

Yes I think that applies for most clothing on eBay. Winter coats are cheaper in summer, same with cashmere sweaters. Summer clothing a lot cheaper in winter.

Tommy-VF51 · May 26, 2021

Any tips on repairing frayed button holes on a 40s version?

moimanuh · Jun 8, 2021

I found this 70s vintage peacoat(1974) manufactured by VI-MIL with the pewter buttons on eBay. I wanted to know if this peacoat is genuine also I would appreciate it if anyone could help me identify if the wool used is kersey or melton?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/353291873352

moimanuh · Jun 8, 2021

Boyo said:
I think there's a guy on here who knows a thing or two about Peacoats.. I dont remember his user name but I suspect he'll see this thread in time and reply.. in the mean time take a look here

I guess the guy you are referring to goes by the username of "Peacoat". I have sent him a pm too. Hope he replies soon.

Boyo · Jun 8, 2021

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-dating-the-united-states-navy-peacoat.72058/

I'll guess your jacket is Melton wool.. I think all there Kersey ones had corduroy pocket bags.

moimanuh · Jun 8, 2021

Boyo said:
there used to be a dedicated Peacoat thread pinned to the top of the outerwear section and there used to be a moderator named Peacoat.. both now seem gone.. I may have missed something?

I'll guess your jacket is Melton wool.. I think all there Kersey ones had corduroy pocket bags.

I am confused as the peacoat guide said that melton wool was used after 1980. And any melton wool use in the 70s had that mentioned on the tag.

Boyo · Jun 8, 2021

here's a bit about the pewter buttons from the guide.. more info than you'll ever need in that Guide

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-dating-the-united-states-navy-peacoat.72058/

"1970s

Up until the mid 70's the button on the peacoats had been the standard black plastic button. The Navy changed to a pewter (a/k/a Zumwalt) button that was identical in styling to the gold button authorized for officers and chiefs. The pewter button began to appear on peacoats issued to recruits in 1974, with Navy wide changeover required by July 1, 1976 .

Starting in about 1975 the Navy let at least one contract, and maybe more, for the Melton wool shell. According to one of our members who entered boot camp on 28 November 1975, the coats were black and not the traditional midnight blue which had been the standard for years. This wasn't a final change, however. That wouldn't come until 1980. The pewter button lasted until 1984, when the classic black button with the fouled anchor was returned to service."

Peacoat · Jun 8, 2021

Boyo said:
there used to be a dedicated Peacoat thread pinned to the top of the outerwear section and there used to be a moderator named Peacoat.. both now seem gone.. I may have missed something?

I'll guess your jacket is Melton wool.. I think all there Kersey ones had corduroy pocket bags.

I hope I'm not gone!

The major peacoat thread is indeed at the top of the page under important links. D-Man posted some, and I added to that in another post

The Melton wool peacoats started in 1980 with a 22 oz. shell. There were some in, I believe 1974, that had the Melton in a 30 oz. shell, just like the pre 1980 coats. Most of those were marked "Melton Wool'" but not all.

I also went to the original listing and saw that most of the pictures showed a black coat, just as did the images you posted. The one showing the tag, appears to be blue.

The pewter buttons were required in 1976, so this one may have had the buttons changed out.

If I had to guess, I would say this one is Melton, but that is based on the color of most of the images and the date of the tag (because there were some Meltons manufactured in 1974).

You'll know for sure when you get it.

moimanuh · Jun 8, 2021

Peacoat said:
I hope I'm not gone!

The major peacoat thread is indeed at the top of the page under important links. D-Man posted some, and I added to that in another post

The Melton wool peacoats started in 1980 with a 22 oz. shell. There were some in, I believe 1974, that had the Melton in a 30 oz. shell, just like the pre 1980 coats. Most of those were marked "Melton Wool'" but not all.

I also went to the original listing and saw that most of the pictures showed a black coat, just as did the images you posted. The one showing the tag, appears to be blue.

The pewter buttons were required in 1976, so this one may have had the buttons changed out.

If I had to guess, I would say this one is Melton, but that is based on the color of most of the images and the date of the tag (because there were some Meltons manufactured in 1974).

You'll know for sure when you get it.

So you mean that if its blue than it will be kersey and if its black it will be melton? Also does the coat looks genuine to you?

Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

*

One of the Regulars

New in Town

*

New in Town

*

New in Town

New in Town

*

New in Town

Practically Family

New in Town

A-List Customer

New in Town

New in Town

Call Me a Cab

New in Town

Call Me a Cab

*

New in Town

Similar threads

Log in

Forum statistics