Five Star Leather Jackets

ojaw · Aug 8, 2021

Kevin the Devon said:
I get that arm length, back length, shoulder, P to P and hem etc.

A comment was made a few posts ago about cuff size, sleeve size etc. That is all getting to hard for me. Mostly I am a "tall" version of a L or XL

Well, as others have stated your best bet is to measure a jacket that fits you well, or even one that doesn’t and take a hard look at what makes it not fit you.
Measure the sleeve length; too long? Most are in my view, there’s lots of advice online about correct length.
Check a cuff dimension, they tend to be too loose for most guys.
On here some of the best fits I’ve seen are from MrProper. Do a search on him, a lot of his posts have laid out the details of what he specified for the various jackets he’s ordered.

nattevagten · Aug 8, 2021

Does anyone know, is the 5-star CR only suitable for certain body types? Or should I perhaps size up?

I bought the jacket without shoulder gussets in my usual size (chest 21" or a bit less, shoulders 18"), but I can wear it only on a t-shirt and even then the shoulder area feels restricting. I had the exact same problem with Aero's board racer in size 40. My SB cross zip and Aero's Dustbowl have narrower shoulders, a similar chest measurement, but both still feel MUCH more comfortable, allow layering, etc. FYI, my chest measurement is 37.5", but I have somewhat large traps due to working out.

What to do? Size up, try the version with shoulder gussets, or give up on this style? Otherwise, I quite liked the jacket and the premium goathide.

Carlos840 · Aug 8, 2021

ojaw said:
For instance, 5*’s size chart for the A-1 is doing my head in.
There’s size in the first column, 36 in my case, which is followed by the “suitable for chest” column in red, which to me would seem to correspond to the pit to pit of the jacket.
But in the third column there’s a number that’s even bigger called “chest”.
WTF
The “hem” column seems to indicate a square cut jacket if you go according to the red number or tapered if you go according to the third, “chest” column.

I asked Shawn about this a few days ago but I think he’s pretty busy right now.
Can anyone set me straight?

"suitable for chest" means the chest measurement of the person wearing the jacket.
"chest" is the measurement of the jacket, divide by 2 for pit to pit.
"hem" is the measurement of the bottom hem of the jacket, divide by 2 for side to side measurement.
The difference between pit and hem tells you how V shaped the jacket is.

Now, i agree the sizing is weird, i have a 41" chest and according to this chart i should order a size xxs/36, which would have a 22.4" pit to pit, and a 20.5" bottom hem which is pretty standard for a size 42, not for a 36.
The difference between wearer's actual size and jacket size is called "chest ease", it is usually around 4".

ojaw · Aug 8, 2021

Carlos840 said:
"suitable for chest" means the chest measurement of the person wearing the jacket.
"chest" is the measurement of the jacket, divide by 2 for pit to pit.
"hem" is the measurement of the bottom hem of the jacket, divide by 2 for side to side measurement.
The difference between pit and hem tells you how V shaped the jacket is.

Now, i agree the sizing is weird, i have a 41" chest and according to this chart i should order a size xxs/36, which would have a 22.4" pit to pit, and a 20.5" bottom hem which is pretty standard for a size 42, not for a 36.
The difference between wearer's actual size and jacket size is called "chest ease", it is usually around 4".

Thank you, that is what I suspected and mentioned later, my main confusion (eventually) being the huge difference between the stated size and the jacket dimensions.

Carlos840 · Aug 8, 2021

ojaw said:
Thank you, that is what I suspected and mentioned later, my main confusion (eventually) being the huge difference between the stated size and the jacket dimensions.

This is why you will often read people saying that tag size is meaningless.

ojaw · Aug 8, 2021

Carlos840 said:
This is why you will often read people saying that tag size is meaningless.

Yep, though it’s usually at least a starting point.

Canuck Panda · Aug 8, 2021

nattevagten said:
Does anyone know, is the 5-star CR only suitable for certain body types? Or should I perhaps size up?

I bought the jacket without shoulder gussets in my usual size (chest 21" or a bit less, shoulders 18"), but I can wear it only on a t-shirt and even then the shoulder area feels restricting. I had the exact same problem with Aero's board racer in size 40. My SB cross zip and Aero's Dustbowl have narrower shoulders, a similar chest measurement, but both still feel MUCH more comfortable, allow layering, etc. FYI, my chest measurement is 37.5", but I have somewhat large traps due to working out.

What to do? Size up, try the version with shoulder gussets, or give up on this style? Otherwise, I quite liked the jacket and the premium goathide.

View attachment 352576

Your traps are holding up the jacket not your entire shoulder. The angle of the shoulder slope matter the most for your shoulder shape, not the width. I have cross zips from 5star, SB and aero. They all have medium shoulder slope except Aero who is the flattest. I don’t have the 5 star cafe racer so that could be on a different shape pattern.
The good thing is the goat is very soft and forgiving leather so it would not be as noticeable as horse or cowhides. But if you want to eliminate that pull off your neck you would need to get a custom shoulder slope shape that’s more angled like the LW. So that your traps isn’t pulling the back up while your chest is pulling the front down and showing that “aero” neck crease.

ojaw · Aug 8, 2021

nattevagten said:
What to do? Size up, try the version with shoulder gussets, or give up on this style? Otherwise, I quite liked the jacket and the premium goathide.

I’m clearly no expert, but it “looks” like the shoulders are already too wide. More room in the chest and waist, less in the shoulders.
Or maybe more down to the shape of the jacket shoulders themselves.

nattevagten · Aug 9, 2021

Canuck Panda said:
Your traps are holding up the jacket not your entire shoulder. The angle of the shoulder slope matter the most for your shoulder shape, not the width. I have cross zips from 5star, SB and aero. They all have medium shoulder slope except Aero who is the flattest. I don’t have the 5 star cafe racer so that could be on a different shape pattern.
The good thing is the goat is very soft and forgiving leather so it would not be as noticeable as horse or cowhides. But if you want to eliminate that pull off your neck you would need to get a custom shoulder slope shape that’s more angled like the LW. So that your traps isn’t pulling the back up while your chest is pulling the front down and showing that “aero” neck crease.

Thanks. I'm starting to get the feeling that the shoulder width isn't the issue here after all like ojaw said as well. Perhaps it's the very high and tight armholes that make the jacket quite uncomfortable and layering virtually impossible. I mean, the deltoid area of the jacket starts to pinch even when wearing a slightly thicker brushed cotton shirt, which I don't think is normal. I could ask Shawn if it's possible to modify the armholes if that's the issue.

MrProper · Aug 9, 2021

ojaw said:
Based on your fit pics and descriptions, I know I and others would greatly benefit from a ‘how to order from 5*’ manual!

Here is an example of how I order a jacket from 5*.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/five-star-leather-jackets.101762/page-171#post-2813649

ojaw · Aug 9, 2021

MrProper said:
Here is an example of how I order a jacket from 5*.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/five-star-leather-jackets.101762/page-171#post-2813649

Thanks, much appreciated.

MrProper · Aug 9, 2021

So guys, now a few weeks have passed since the 5* CXL jackets were delivered. How are the experiences with the thick leather? I am still of the opinion that it is too stiff for a jacket, but hope that I am wrong.

Canuck Panda · Aug 9, 2021

nattevagten said:
Thanks. I'm starting to get the feeling that the shoulder width isn't the issue here after all like ojaw said as well. Perhaps it's the very high and tight armholes that make the jacket quite uncomfortable and layering virtually impossible. I mean, the deltoid area of the jacket starts to pinch even when wearing a slightly thicker brushed cotton shirt, which I don't think is normal. I could ask Shawn if it's possible to modify the armholes if that's the issue.

I would ask Shawn for a different pattern block and see what else he has. Fixing the current pattern block would be a huge job, arm hole attachment is like the most critical thing on any pattern design. In theory you could still get the cafe racer front but based on a different block. Hope it works out!

MrProper said:
So guys, now a few weeks have passed since the 5* CXL jackets were delivered. How are the experiences with the thick leather? I am still of the opinion that it is too stiff for a jacket, but hope that I am wrong.

I have both the 1.7mm and the 2.2mm. The 1.7mm is wearable, but not the 2.2mm. I haven’t worn them much because it’s summer time, but just around the house the 2.2mm would pinch my arms because the sleeves are very stiff. I don’t think it will break into soft leather either, this leather was tanned to hold its shape. It was fun project but for everyday wear I would go with Shawn’s goat over the thick stiff steer.

I am gonna ask Shawn for dark brown goatskin in my next round of jackets with him. Same finish as the dark brown CXL but on his premium goat.

TheDonEffect · Aug 10, 2021

Canuck Panda said:
I would ask Shawn for a different pattern block and see what else he has. Fixing the current pattern block would be a huge job, arm hole attachment is like the most critical thing on any pattern design. In theory you could still get the cafe racer front but based on a different block. Hope it works out!

I have both the 1.7mm and the 2.2mm. The 1.7mm is wearable, but not the 2.2mm. I haven’t worn them much because it’s summer time, but just around the house the 2.2mm would pinch my arms because the sleeves are very stiff. I don’t think it will break into soft leather either, this leather was tanned to hold its shape. It was fun project but for everyday wear I would go with Shawn’s goat over the thick stiff steer.

I am gonna ask Shawn for dark brown goatskin in my next round of jackets with him. Same finish as the dark brown CXL but on his premium goat.

Do you think the thinner cxl will break in?

MrProper · Aug 10, 2021

TheDonEffect said:
Do you think the thinner cxl will break in?

I had the thinner CXL just for the pockets of my vest. After wearing it a few times, I'd say it breaks in very hard...if at all.

hjv2 · Aug 10, 2021

The premium black goatskin looks to be the best leather 5 Star offers but wasn't that the one with the weird chemical smell? Did anyone get rid of the smell from their jacket?

The seal looks good too but I'm not too fond of the yellow core.

hjv2 · Aug 10, 2021

Canuck Panda said:
I am gonna ask Shawn for dark brown goatskin in my next round of jackets with him. Same finish as the dark brown CXL but on his premium goat.

Now that would be a game changer for sure if he can replicate the sxl finish to soft goatskin.

Canuck Panda · Aug 10, 2021

TheDonEffect said:
Do you think the thinner cxl will break in?

What MrProper said. My 1.7mm SXL gave me rolls and creases on the sleeves but holds its shape on the torso. the 2.2 just doesn't change shape period. I honestly do not see the advantage of the either of the SXL over the 1.2mm goatskin. Except the dark brown SXL finish. It's really nice deep brown with a little shimmering effect.

hjv2 said:
The premium black goatskin looks to be the best leather 5 Star offers but wasn't that the one with the weird chemical smell? Did anyone get rid of the smell from their jacket?

The seal looks good too but I'm not too fond of the yellow core.

There is no chemical smell. But it has a goat leather smell. My Golden Bear goatskin bombers also have this goat scent and they are made in USA. It's not a bad chemical smell. But it is also not mimosa smelling Shinkis either.

hjv2 said:
Now that would be a game changer for sure if he can replicate the sxl finish to soft goatskin.

Precisely. Sometime this year I plan to ask Shawn to make me a copy of the Leathertog jacket in goat. I would ask for brown SXL color goat if he is willing to develop it. If not, then just black goatskin.

TheDonEffect · Aug 10, 2021

Hmm, so it sounds then that it's more unwieldly than Horween CXL? At 2.2mm, we are talking 5oz+ which is alot more than the typical 3oz Horween (correct my math if I'm wrong), one would assume that if we went with a more typical weight that it would be similar to Horween.

MrProper · Aug 11, 2021

From FB: "Black CHL Thick Cowhide Leather Arrived in Inventory
We are already increasing the softness in these leathers, we nearly redeveloped all three articles after having suggestions"

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