Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

Yamahana · Sep 19, 2021

alish said:
reinforcing small areas of the shoulders where the leather is in poor shape

By this do you mean with the Skidmores-Vaseline or did you put some material behind the leather to reinforce?
Jacket looks great, it’s a great feeling to freshen up and preserve a cool vintage jacket.

JMax · Sep 19, 2021

alish said:
Picked up this halfbelt a couple weeks ago. Been slowly rehydrating it and doing a few little repairs on the pockets, reinforcing small areas of the shoulders where the leather is in poor shape, etc. Still need to re-stitch a couple of spots on the sleeves, but the leather is feeling good enough now to wear it around the house for a short bit while doing some chores. Plan to hit it with a coat of Tenderly in another week or two to give a uniform finish and to give a protective surface layer; but want to wait until I'm sure the few trouble spots are fully rehydrated. So far have been using my 1:1 mix of Skidmore's and petroleum jelly to bring the leather back to life. Very happy with how it's coming along.

Before:

View attachment 362512 View attachment 362513 View attachment 362514

Now:

View attachment 362515

View attachment 362522 View attachment 362523

Anyone have any thoughts on a maker? Talon zip. Pretty heavy leather except for the bottom panel in back, which is thinner and feels like it was tanned differently (or just a different hide that responded to the tanning differently).

Leather is in poor enough condition in a few spots that it doesn't warrant lining and zipper replacements, so will just enjoy wearing it as it is. Was cheap enough that I can wear it without worrying about it. Might do my own patchwork repairs to address the lining at some point.

Very nice. How many applications of the Skidmores have you applied to the jacket? Thanks.

alish · Sep 19, 2021

Thanks @Yamahana. Yes, I glued thin leather patches to the inside of the shell under a couple of spots on the shoulders where it is cracking and thin. None of the cracks are deep, but since the lining is torn at the neck I was able to easily reach inside to the shoulders - figured it just made sense to reinforce the two worst spots before I even started conditioning (in case the oil bled through the cracks to the inside, making it harder to get a good bond if I needed to patch it later). There's one other spot that I might still reinforce with an internal patch (top of the left sleeve) - it didn't seem too bad at first, but it has been slow to rehydrate and the surface cracks have become more apparent from the shinier surface created by the Skidmore's-Vaseline mix.

I sanded the patches to thin the edges so they don't show through the shoulders (and the leather patch material was thin and soft already, which probably helped too).

alish · Sep 19, 2021

JMax said:
Very nice. How many applications of the Skidmores have you applied to the jacket? Thanks.

Thanks @JMax. Two applications over the whole jacket (very light second coat in some places and pretty heavy in other areas that still needed a lot of rehydrating). A third application to the worst spots. This has been over nearly two weeks (second application was around 3 days after the first; third application was around a week after the second). I've found that the Skidmore's-Vaseline mix continues to improve the condition of the leather for 2-3 weeks after application, so taking my time and letting the conditioner do it's thing. I might have to hit one or two spots one more time before I top-coat it with Tenderly (might mix some Urad with it, but not sure - I like the less glossy look and it sounds like Tenderly is actually pretty tenacious by itself). Open to input here as I haven't used any of the Urad products - just going by what I've read on here lately on the Conditioners - Reddit thread.

JMax · Sep 19, 2021

Thanks. This will help we with future restoration projects. The jacket looks great.

I’ve never used Urad products. I can’t help you there.

alish · Sep 19, 2021

@JMax, there's some good info on conditioners beyond the old standards of Pecards, Lexol, etc. here (scroll back through the earlier pages):
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...mparison-on-reddit.101735/page-8#post-2845937

@ton312 and others have posted about Urad;
@handymike has shared some good info about Tenderly, as well as some testing with Skidmore's;
myself and others have also shared stories about using Skidmore's or near equivalents available elsewhere.

handymike · Sep 19, 2021

I’m not recommending Tenderly anymore beyond a surface coating.

photo2u · Sep 19, 2021

alish said:
Picked up this halfbelt a couple weeks ago. Been slowly rehydrating it and doing a few little repairs on the pockets, reinforcing small areas of the shoulders where the leather is in poor shape, etc. Still need to re-stitch a couple of spots on the sleeves, but the leather is feeling good enough now to wear it around the house for a short bit while doing some chores. Plan to hit it with a coat of Tenderly in another week or two to give a uniform finish and to give a protective surface layer; but want to wait until I'm sure the few trouble spots are fully rehydrated. So far have been using my 1:1 mix of Skidmore's and petroleum jelly to bring the leather back to life. Very happy with how it's coming along.

Before:

View attachment 362512 View attachment 362513 View attachment 362514

Now:

View attachment 362515

View attachment 362522 View attachment 362523

Anyone have any thoughts on a maker? Talon zip. Pretty heavy leather except for the bottom panel in back, which is thinner and feels like it was tanned differently (or just a different hide that responded to the tanning differently).

Leather is in poor enough condition in a few spots that it doesn't warrant lining and zipper replacements, so will just enjoy wearing it as it is. Was cheap enough that I can wear it without worrying about it. Might do my own patchwork repairs to address the lining at some point.

That is a very nice 40s jacket. Let soak in more conditioner. In the past, glycerin worked well for me in hydrating leather.

tmitchell59 · Sep 19, 2021

Some of the nicest Steerhide I have seen on a 50s jacket. This was one great jacket.

tmitchell59 · Sep 20, 2021

Traditional waisted half belt Steerhide Hercules, early 50s for this one. No longer in my possession. The Square Pockets were quite the thing. I've seen 40s jackets with the pockets, but very popular in the 50s for all the catalogs.

Note the huge Stovepipe sleeves. This is a True size 46. It was too big for me.

Spectacular color. a rayon quilted lining.

Yamahana · Sep 22, 2021

REED SPORTSWEAR CROSS ZIP
Really like the styling on this unique looking jacket but quite disappointed to find out it’s nowhere near a size 44 as listed. Conmar zips and unusual hook & buckle belt, slick red black patterned lining

However only 19” across the chest

Tagged a size 20 inside small horizontal pocket

Fire cracker wrapping inside chest pocket

Add it all up this is the well worn jacket of a teen age boy of the 50s
as this Sears Roebuck size chart of same era would suggest

Fireflame · Sep 22, 2021

tmitchell59 said:
Some of the nicest Steerhide I have seen on a 50s jacket. This was one great jacket.

View attachment 362736 View attachment 362737 View attachment 362738 View attachment 362739 View attachment 362740

That leather does look great!

JMax · Sep 22, 2021

Yamahana said:
REED SPORTSWEAR CROSS ZIP
Really like the styling on this unique looking jacket but quite disappointed to find out it’s nowhere near a size 44 as listed. Conmar zips and unusual hook & buckle belt, slick red black patterned lining
View attachment 363173 View attachment 363174 View attachment 363175

However only 19” across the chest
View attachment 363176

Tagged a size 20 inside small horizontal pocket
View attachment 363177
Fire cracker wrapping inside chest pocket
View attachment 363178
Add it all up this is the well worn jacket of a teen age boy of the 50s
as this Sears Roebuck size chart of same era would suggest
View attachment 363179

That sucks. Should be an easy return.

Looks pretty good otherwise. How does the hide compare to other vintage makers?

BTW- the first pic is your kick ass Appalachian.

Yamahana · Sep 22, 2021

JMax said:
That sucks. Should be an easy return.

Looks pretty good otherwise. How does the hide compare to other vintage makers?

BTW- the first pic is your kick ass Appalachian.

Yes I caught that on the Appalachian switched it out..whoops. I’m going to take some better pics of it and post it in the right thread.
The Reed was very well made with nice well grained leather. Conmar zips all around. It had been well worn but still in good shape. It was no hassle easy return but a major disappointment that it was so small. I’ve chased vintage good while, not as long as some here but I’ve never seen one like this Reed before and probably won’t

alish · Sep 22, 2021

Yamahana said:
Yes I caught that on the Appalachian switched it out..whoops. I’m going to take some better pics of it and post it in the right thread.
The Reed was very well made with nice well grained leather. Conmar zips all around. It had been well worn but still in good shape. It was no hassle easy return but a major disappointment that it was so small. I’ve chased vintage good while, not as long as some here but I’ve never seen one like this Reed before and probably won’t

Can you PM me the seller's info? If it isn't too short, or have too short of arms, I might be interested in it. Depending on the jacket, I'm 19"-20" for pit to pit.

Thanks!

Yamahana · Sep 22, 2021

alish said:
Can you PM me the seller's info? If it isn't too short, or have too short of arms, I might be interested in it. Depending on the jacket, I'm 19"-20" for pit to pit. Thanks!

You bet

tmitchell59 · Sep 23, 2021

Yamahana said:
I’m going to take some better pics of it and post it in the right thread.

Yes, Vertical zipp. I forgot about that jacket. Look forward to seeing it in more detail. I have pics of mine and some videos.

tmitchell59 · Sep 23, 2021

ton312 said:
I actually threw this on on the way to work today. Not really necessary but there’s a stiff nor’ easter blowing some truly refreshing air in and frankly I wanted to drive in it. I don’t see how this doesn’t become my most worn jacket. These Monarch’s are so beautifully made. They feel luxurious and stand apart from the other vintage stuff. I think it’s the highest form of vintage horse I’ve ever handled. Maybe the nicest leather I’ve ever handled period. At least so far…I’ve got a long way to go.

This is such a great statement and touches on what is and isn't in Vintage jackets. There are differences and Monarchs tend to show that in their design, fit and feel. They are the highest quality from their day and that Day goes back quite a few years. They are known for making the Iconic Hercules half-belt in the mid 30s. Monarch civilian jackets show up in all the Vintage leather books.

These comments are from another thread:

In this alum are pictures of the original Monarch with the California Sportswear label. This was the incorrect label identified by Dave Sheeley. I took these pictures years ago. What you see is the same jacket pictured for sale but the original.

https://goo.gl/photos/N1sZp3yPueWGxyiN7

Not for sale. Just showing what Dave created. The original is as fine a half-belt as your can find. Much nicer than the 30s Iconic Hercules made by Monarch. it is as if they had the design figured out. The Monarch tailoring is seen throughout Dave's jacket. I remember corresponding with him over other Monarchs I owned, sending pictures/measurements, then just sent him the jackets!

Dave could have made any jackets he wanted, but he chose Monarch for all of it's construction details that set it apart from other makers.

Imuricecreamman · Sep 23, 2021

tmitchell59 said:
This is such a great statement and touches on what is and isn't in Vintage jackets. There are differences and Monarchs tend to show that in their design, fit and feel. They are the highest quality from their day and that Day goes back quite a few years. They are known for making the Iconic Hercules half-belt in the mid 30s. Monarch civilian jackets show up in all the Vintage leather books.

These comments are from another thread:

In this alum are pictures of the original Monarch with the California Sportswear label. This was the incorrect label identified by Dave Sheeley. I took these pictures years ago. What you see is the same jacket pictured for sale but the original.

https://goo.gl/photos/N1sZp3yPueWGxyiN7

Not for sale. Just showing what Dave created. The original is as fine a half-belt as your can find. Much nicer than the 30s Iconic Hercules made by Monarch. it is as if they had the design figured out. The Monarch tailoring is seen throughout Dave's jacket. I remember corresponding with him over other Monarchs I owned, sending pictures/measurements, then just sent him the jackets!

Dave could have made any jackets he wanted, but he chose Monarch for all of it's construction details that set it apart from other makers.

View attachment 363409

View attachment 363410

View attachment 363411

View attachment 363412

View attachment 363413

View attachment 363414

View attachment 363415

View attachment 363416

View attachment 363418

View attachment 363417

That is wonderful in design and execution.

ton312 · Sep 23, 2021

tmitchell59 said:
This is such a great statement and touches on what is and isn't in Vintage jackets. There are differences and Monarchs tend to show that in their design, fit and feel. They are the highest quality from their day and that Day goes back quite a few years. They are known for making the Iconic Hercules half-belt in the mid 30s. Monarch civilian jackets show up in all the Vintage leather books.

These comments are from another thread:

In this alum are pictures of the original Monarch with the California Sportswear label. This was the incorrect label identified by Dave Sheeley. I took these pictures years ago. What you see is the same jacket pictured for sale but the original.

https://goo.gl/photos/N1sZp3yPueWGxyiN7

Not for sale. Just showing what Dave created. The original is as fine a half-belt as your can find. Much nicer than the 30s Iconic Hercules made by Monarch. it is as if they had the design figured out. The Monarch tailoring is seen throughout Dave's jacket. I remember corresponding with him over other Monarchs I owned, sending pictures/measurements, then just sent him the jackets!

Dave could have made any jackets he wanted, but he chose Monarch for all of it's construction details that set it apart from other makers.

View attachment 363409

View attachment 363410

View attachment 363411

View attachment 363412

View attachment 363413

View attachment 363414

View attachment 363415

View attachment 363416

View attachment 363418

View attachment 363417

Indeed! They seem to stand the test of time and fare far better than most. I can see how that is not by accident. The hides they use just seem to be cut from a different grade of horse. Perfectly even thickness the whole way through, not a single square inch is thinner. Thicker hide than most my vintage stuff and as you have said, just beautifully tailored. Immaculate work. I'm a huge fan. I don't see them very often. I wonder if it might be time for me to reach out to Dave S. for real. I have a Monarch in mind for him:

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