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(The Real) CiDu Leather

Messages
17,106
Location
Chicago
I have a Cidu that i purchased just out of curiosity and I wouldn’t purchase another one again.
it just doesn't feel nice to wear. I'd rather buy a vintage jacket with the money.



A1m5TgL.jpg
It sure looks nice!
 

TheBigEraser

One of the Regulars
Messages
215
Hi Canuck Panda, thanks for the write-up! Very interesting read. The two jackets’ fit look pretty fine to me.

I am wondering that since you have handled the jacket, what do you think of the quality of the work and the leather?

Also my additional reactions:

Advertised as Chinese Chromexcel Horsehide, 3.5 to 4oz.
In reality it's more 3 to 3.5oz. But my theory is that the Chinese factories thin everything down to fit their machine for mass production.

I checked the description of this particular jacket, I don't see the advertisement of Chinese Chromexcel horsehide 3.5 to 4oz, I only see this is advertised as waxed horsehide with a thickness of 1.4 - 1.6mm. How did you get this info?

Members with better China lingo please help me out. What does this mean? Is it WeChat?

View attachment 367758

Cidu offers custom orders if I translated this correctly, for ¥500 (USD 77) plus cost of all materials. That's how low the labor cost to make a jacket is over there. From pattern design to sewing it all together. I don't know how to do this, what does VX: OUMEIGONGLVE mean?

Yes your translation is correct. It literally says "Based on the current style offering, you can supply your own leather, you can customize your size and do some small change - you need to pay 500 yuan (USD 77) for the labor cost. Cost of hardwares and other ancillary materials will need to be calculated case by case."

OUMEIGONGLVE is his wechat account. VX actually means WX = Weixin = Chinese name of Wechat. Taobao is owned by Alibaba while Wechat is owned by Tencent. Alibaba and Tencent are the two biggest internet companies in China but they don't support each other. So if you mention anything about wechat on Taobao, VX is used to avoid keyword screening of Taobao.

FWIW, I didn’t find Thedi modeling for Cidu on his Taobao page. Nor did I find Ralph hanging around in his Langlitz. But key words like NOtThedi or RRL were used frequently. Again, Cidu is targeting domestic Chinese shoppers who are looking for the best they can afford. Not everyone can afford the real RRL.

True, that key words relate to the winning the search rank. Unlike the western web shopping atmosphere, Chinese fashion apparel consumers almost buy everything through Taobao. Alipay, the mainstream paying tool, is also owned by Alibaba Group. So it makes no sense for Chinese merchandiser to open their own website like Western/Japanese makers because no customers would ever know their exsitence. And if no such keywords like "NotThedi/NotFreewheelers/NotRRL" are added to the product title, people won't even find them...

In reality, Cidu is not relevant outside of China. I just happen to be the weird guy who goes down to the dive bar every now and then. My Taobao adventure story wasn’t intended to offend anyone. I’m sorry if it did. I was just trying to give some raw footage and a glimpse into different parts of the leather jacket world. If there was a leather jacket maker in Antarctica, I be trying to get some of that too.
Agree. Cidu doesn't bother oversea market at all. Thank you so much for sharing your experience, I enjoyed it a lot personally. Keep it up! Please do share with us if you find a leather jacket maker in Antarctica haha.
 

Guppy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,282
Location
Cleveland, OH
Aliexpress is advertising an upcoming sale. If you are looking for a men's skirt this one looks interesting. I don't have a lot of men's skirts in my closet.

Screenshot_20211009184515.png


Back to leather jackets, I have a few to show.

This first one is a leather aviator's vest, according to the description, made by Cidu. I think it's decent, and distinctive. I think Freewheelers had something in this pattern, and I've seen canvas and leather versions. It's surprisingly warm, has a bunch of pockets, the only thing I don't like about it is the main zipper is a lefty. Lefty zippers are the bane of my existence.
img_20211009_190319_4-jpg.368040

img_20211009_190328_6-jpg.368041


The Type I is a Cidu, and if anyone's interested in it, it's an XXL, fits like a 42/Large. It's still got the tags, perfect condition, and I'd take $200 for it, and it's worth that. It's fine, but I don't feel like I'm a Type I kind of guy after all. I like pockets.
img_20211009_190408_1-jpg.368042

img_20211009_190417_6-jpg.368037


This is a hybrid of a Type II and Type III made by Pineal Jet. It has hand warmers, one chest pocket, in kind-of a Type III style, and front pleats like a Type II. It's a bit heavier than the Type I but the same color, probably same leather tannage, but just a nicer piece or a nicer batch. Fits well, comfortable, looks good. The buttons say "HORSE HIDE" but I'm not going to take it to a DNA lab to find out.

img_20211009_190455_9-jpg.368038

img_20211009_190501_1-jpg.368039

The white balance on my phone camera makes the contrast stitching look white in a few of these, but it's actually yellow-orange, same color as on the button hole stitching, which came through somehow.

These are not in the same league as Freewheelers (and I haven't handled Flat Head, RMC, Fine Creek/High Large, etc. to compare directly, but they're obviously not going to be on that level.) But I think they offer a good value. For 10x more you can get a better jacket, but I don't know that I'd say that you're getting a 10x better jacket. Some people would rather wear a jacket that they won't cry about if something happens to it because it cost a couple of car payments.

I also really like the look of this two-tone leather Lee 101 storm rider clone. But then they've got Theodoros selling a canvas-and-leather B-3 for them at this same store, so I gotta draw the line now.
 

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Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,130
You gonna have 14 of those jackets?From your fit pics the patterns are not great, pretty tubular. But if you like them enough to buy 12 (!) more, wow, just wow. I don't know what to say, keep those pics coming, maybe there will be some gems in there.
It’s the prices. I got impulsive. But only one need to work. Lol.
The only brand that has consistent 6 drop is Aero, and JL m500. Actually LW j24 is also drop 6. Every other brand I got range from straight down to drop 5 at most. I like the taper cuts too.


Thanks for the thread @Canuck Panda , I enjoy your contributions a lot and your adventurous spirit exploring different styles and brands.
Do you know the model or link to that two-tone cross-zip one?
I think it’s based on a The Flat Head model of a few years back, I’ve always loved that jacket.
Let me get mine first. I don’t want others to lose money on something because I got carried away by my new Taobao discovery. Cidu has an official Taobao store. AliExpress is full of resellers. I’ve bought from YR Leather and Red Tornado on AliExpress without issues. But they are still resellers using other peoples marketing material and they cost more. Except Red Tornado, he also has a Taobao store and that’s his brand.


https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.3-c-s.w4002-17817907926.47.417f204coSGvTX&id=654988624397

I don’t know which flat head model you were referring to, I think it’s a repro/copy of Freewheelers/Bootleggers Pasadena.

Edit: update link from mobile version to laptop version.

Crap. I thought it was his Frankenstein jacket like what I do with Shawn. I know the Peters back but I couldn’t figure out where he got the half bitten D pocket from
Hi Canuck Panda, thanks for the write-up! Very interesting read. The two jackets’ fit look pretty fine to me.

I am wondering that since you have handled the jacket, what do you think of the quality of the work and the leather?

Also my additional reactions:



I checked the description of this particular jacket, I don't see the advertisement of Chinese Chromexcel horsehide 3.5 to 4oz, I only see this is advertised as waxed horsehide with a thickness of 1.4 - 1.6mm. How did you get this info?



Yes your translation is correct. It literally says "Based on the current style offering, you can supply your own leather, you can customize your size and do some small change - you need to pay 500 yuan (USD 77) for the labor cost. Cost of hardwares and other ancillary materials will need to be calculated case by case."

OUMEIGONGLVE is his wechat account. VX actually means WX = Weixin = Chinese name of Wechat. Taobao is owned by Alibaba while Wechat is owned by Tencent. Alibaba and Tencent are the two biggest internet companies in China but they don't support each other. So if you mention anything about wechat on Taobao, VX is used to avoid keyword screening of Taobao.



True, that key words relate to the winning the search rank. Unlike the western web shopping atmosphere, Chinese fashion apparel consumers almost buy everything through Taobao. Alipay, the mainstream paying tool, is also owned by Alibaba Group. So it makes no sense for Chinese merchandiser to open their own website like Western/Japanese makers because no customers would ever know their exsitence. And if no such keywords like "NotThedi/NotFreewheelers/NotRRL" are added to the product title, people won't even find them...


Agree. Cidu doesn't bother oversea market at all. Thank you so much for sharing your experience, I enjoyed it a lot personally. Keep it up! Please do share with us if you find a leather jacket maker in Antarctica haha.

I just translated his 1.4 / 1.6mm to oz which I believe is 3.5/4.
But actual feels like 1.2/1.4mm which is 3/3.5 oz. still thick, and I’m sure I can get a 1.6mm reading somewhere on the jacket. Will check into it with my caliper later. What I tried to communicate is that it’s good leather but not beast like Aero and I think it’s because their machine setup.

Thanks for the tip on the lingo. I also figured out I need to install Aliwanwan to access the live chat function. Lots to learn still.

thanks for confirming that Cidu doesn’t market outside of China. This is the point I’m trying to make, is that while he tweaks existing designs, he doesn’t use fake Thedi or RRL marketing photos. That’s AliExpress resellers, two are not the same. I watched his live feeds on Taobao and I truly believes he deserve better than what others are saying about him.

Aliexpress is advertising an upcoming sale. If you are looking for a men's skirt this one looks interesting. I don't have a lot of men's skirts in my closet.

View attachment 368036

Back to leather jackets, I have a few to show.

This first one is a leather aviator's vest, according to the description, made by Cidu. I think it's decent, and distinctive. I think Freewheelers had something in this pattern, and I've seen canvas and leather versions. It's surprisingly warm, has a bunch of pockets, the only thing I don't like about it is the main zipper is a lefty. Lefty zippers are the bane of my existence.
img_20211009_190319_4-jpg.368040

img_20211009_190328_6-jpg.368041


The Type I is a Cidu, and if anyone's interested in it, it's an XXL, fits like a 42/Large. It's still got the tags, perfect condition, and I'd take $200 for it, and it's worth that. It's fine, but I don't feel like I'm a Type I kind of guy after all. I like pockets.
img_20211009_190408_1-jpg.368042

img_20211009_190417_6-jpg.368037


This is a hybrid of a Type II and Type III made by Pineal Jet. It has hand warmers, one chest pocket, in kind-of a Type III style, and front pleats like a Type II. It's a bit heavier than the Type I but the same color, probably same leather tannage, but just a nicer piece or a nicer batch. Fits well, comfortable, looks good. The buttons say "HORSE HIDE" but I'm not going to take it to a DNA lab to find out.

img_20211009_190455_9-jpg.368038

img_20211009_190501_1-jpg.368039

The white balance on my phone camera makes the contrast stitching look white in a few of these, but it's actually yellow-orange, same color as on the button hole stitching, which came through somehow.

These are not in the same league as Freewheelers (and I haven't handled Flat Head, RMC, Fine Creek/High Large, etc. to compare directly, but they're obviously not going to be on that level.) But I think they offer a good value. For 10x more you can get a better jacket, but I don't know that I'd say that you're getting a 10x better jacket. Some people would rather wear a jacket that they won't cry about if something happens to it because it cost a couple of car payments.

I also really like the look of this two-tone leather Lee 101 storm rider clone. But then they've got Theodoros selling a canvas-and-leather B-3 for them at this same store, so I gotta draw the line now.

It’s nice to know I’m not the only one who went on the China adventure. Thanks!

jackets looks great.

I think pineal jet leather is one of the factory who does the Cidu contracts. Cidu is not the maker but a retail brand.

That’s what I tried to say about AliExpress resellers. They are not Cidu. Cidu only sells on Taobao and only in China, and he copies designs but not using Thedis photos. That’s why I don’t suggest to buy from AliExpress resellers. But buying from Taobao is not easy for people outside of China. Hence the adventure part.

on Taobao they have live interactive marketing/selling. The fakes or rip offs don’t have this feature. That’s why I assumed there are even fake Cidu’s in China. If I can’t see the guy in action selling his stuff I can’t trust it. But on Taobao this is what the Cidu guy does. He’s their version of QVC celebrity for heritage wear. Lol. I’m not trying to make fun of anyone. Just trying to show the similarities between different parts of the world.

This is what I mean by Taobaos own QVC

B614BE4C-0106-4CA1-8661-AA12497FEE21.jpeg
 

torfjord

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,504
Location
Sweden
My Cidu jacket arrived two days ago. I must say that I am very satisfied with it. It fits like the numbers suggested. Hardware and buttons seem to be good quality. Stitching is also very good, straight and tight. I like the blanket Navajo weave as well. Leather is okay, nothing more. It has a slight chemical smell that I think will go away. Sleeves are a tiny bit tight on me and I’m a pretty thin guy. If you’re packing heavier guns than I do, beware of the sleeves on this one.
291C7FA6-98F5-4FB4-B8A9-455E8D7EC9FA.jpeg
27DA18A5-C732-481C-853E-20EFF4C1F9AE.jpeg
 
Messages
17,106
Location
Chicago
My Cidu jacket arrived two days ago. I must say that I am very satisfied with it. It fits like the numbers suggested. Hardware and buttons seem to be good quality. Stitching is also very good, straight and tight. I like the blanket Navajo weave as well. Leather is okay, nothing more. It has a slight chemical smell that I think will go away. Sleeves are a tiny bit tight on me and I’m a pretty thin guy. If you’re packing heavier guns than I do, beware of the sleeves on this one.
View attachment 369903 View attachment 369904
I love that!!! It’s unique, fits great and looks to be of passable quality at the very least. I want one. Can you share a link as to where you bought it? And the size you chose?
 

torfjord

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,504
Location
Sweden
I love that!!! It’s unique, fits great and looks to be of passable quality at the very least. I want one. Can you share a link as to where you bought it? And the size you chose?

It is definitely passable, to say the least. Sure, the leather could improve, but at this price point I was hardly expecting top tier quality. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not lousy, but don’t expect to fall in love with it is all I’m sayin. I would hesitate to buy an all leather jacket based on this experience though. But this combination works well, with the Navajo blanket as the centre piece.

I bought a size large from this shop:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO9KGuS

Look out for those sleeves though, there’s a risk they are too tight for you.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,130
Nice outfit @torfjord. I've got the grey black one coming next week and I have the suede Storm Riders now. Will post some photos tomorrow when it gets brighter.

But be aware guys. On my Taobao journey I encounter this "Curphey" Leather brand that raised a lot of red flags for me. Just google Curphey leather jacket and you will see what I mean. I hope for Cidu's sake they are not the same. Maybe the Taobao gurus can chime in. What's the difference between Sunny Leather and Cidu Leather from Taobao.

And @KissMyMuscle I don't think that's Horween CXL. It is possibly Latigo by the looks, but definitely not CXL. I live chatted on Cidu's Taobao store but the gal didn't understand what I was talking about. She only knows it's veg tan Horween cowhide.

And they would thin it down to 3 oz/3.5oz, so check thickness. I have not seen a heavyweight jacket made in China yet, like 4.5oz plus.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,130
Here are my Cidu suede Storm Riders:

IMG_7136.jpg

T Shirt Fit:
IMG_7025.JPG

IMG_6997.JPG

This is how my Gap Storm Rider fits, its same every dimension but shorter:
IMG_7061.JPG
Gap is the best bang for the buck for denim. Period.

This is how I would usually wear them (Aka WYWT):
IMG_7079.JPG

IMG_7117.JPG



Here are what I think about the Cidu Suede Truckers:

The Bad:
Package came in very compressed small plastic wrapped brick. Does not help with the smell or the first impression. The Navajo one is still heavily wrinkled from the shipping. Needs a quick steam to flatten out. Needs airing to get the smell out.
Not a lot of transparency on Taobao. Borderline sketchy and feels shady. I feel like I don't know what I am getting until I get them. Google translate also don't work on Taobao.
No brand recognition outside of China. No service. Nothing.

The Good:
Value! The jackets are no different than my other suede jackets that cost 4 to 6 times more.
compare.jpg

Sizing. Asian brand making non Asian sizing. Sleeves are long enough. There is an inch front drop.
IMG_7152.jpg

The berry color one is suppose to be horse suede. I don't know how true that is. It is stiffer and heavier than the green one.

I don't think Cidu is fast fashion. Although it is suppose to be. It is not same as H&M or Zara. It is more mall brands All Saints / Scotch n Soda, but non mainstream styling. If there were an Anthropologie Store for men, these would be it.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,798
Here are my Cidu suede Storm Riders:

View attachment 370347
T Shirt Fit:
View attachment 370348
View attachment 370349
This is how my Gap Storm Rider fits, its same every dimension but shorter:
View attachment 370350 Gap is the best bang for the buck for denim. Period.

This is how I would usually wear them (Aka WYWT):
View attachment 370351
View attachment 370352


Here are what I think about the Cidu Suede Truckers:

The Bad:
Package came in very compressed small plastic wrapped brick. Does not help with the smell or the first impression. The Navajo one is still heavily wrinkled from the shipping. Needs a quick steam to flatten out. Needs airing to get the smell out.
Not a lot of transparency on Taobao. Borderline sketchy and feels shady. I feel like I don't know what I am getting until I get them. Google translate also don't work on Taobao.
No brand recognition outside of China. No service. Nothing.

The Good:
Value! The jackets are no different than my other suede jackets that cost 4 to 6 times more.
View attachment 370360
Sizing. Asian brand making non Asian sizing. Sleeves are long enough. There is an inch front drop.
View attachment 370362
The berry color one is suppose to be horse suede. I don't know how true that is. It is stiffer and heavier than the green one.

I don't think Cidu is fast fashion. Although it is suppose to be. It is not same as H&M or Zara. It is more mall brands All Saints / Scotch n Soda, but non mainstream styling. If there were an Anthropologie Store for men, these would be it.
I love the green Navajo one, it's absolutely awesome. It does everything right.
 

KissMyMuscle

One of the Regulars
Messages
245
Nice outfit @torfjord. I've got the grey black one coming next week and I have the suede Storm Riders now. Will post some photos tomorrow when it gets brighter.

But be aware guys. On my Taobao journey I encounter this "Curphey" Leather brand that raised a lot of red flags for me. Just google Curphey leather jacket and you will see what I mean. I hope for Cidu's sake they are not the same. Maybe the Taobao gurus can chime in. What's the difference between Sunny Leather and Cidu Leather from Taobao.

And @KissMyMuscle I don't think that's Horween CXL. It is possibly Latigo by the looks, but definitely not CXL. I live chatted on Cidu's Taobao store but the gal didn't understand what I was talking about. She only knows it's veg tan Horween cowhide.

And they would thin it down to 3 oz/3.5oz, so check thickness. I have not seen a heavyweight jacket made in China yet, like 4.5oz plus.

Yup probably not cxl, but it's a horween leather. I have seen some Chinese companies making 5oz Buffalo leather jacket but not sure about the quality.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,130
Is this Cidu?
If so, where do I find this green sheep version?
View attachment 370340
That is the green sheep version. But that’s a color corrected photo you have there. The real color is more Olive than BRG. There’s some weight to it but it is not like the Lewis sheepskin. There’s no crumple grain on the Cidu. I am going to guess that they shrunk lamb skin to get to this sheepskin. It uses an oversized 11 main zip. Again there’s smell from the compressed packaging.

371AD5E5-E4DD-43DE-803D-3D7EB7C93804.jpeg
C07905A6-4CA1-4505-B4ED-103C19E83818.jpeg



Yup probably not cxl, but it's a horween leather. I have seen some Chinese companies making 5oz Buffalo leather jacket but not sure about the quality.

I’m pretty sure it’s Latigo. But customer service never confirmed.

For CXL, Aero is the unbeatable reigning champion. I looked around. But they pretty much have the Horween FQHH market cornered.

I haven’t had one real heavyweight (4.5oz or thicker) from any of the Chinese brands yet. Most of them advertise 1.4-1.6mm which is 3.5 to 4.5oz. But it’s more 3.5 / 4 oz for 90% of the jacket.
From reading through Taobao’s consumer feedbacks I don’t think heavyweight leather or grainy (scrotum) leather is a thing in China. They don’t see them as premium features. Lots of complains from too heavy too stiff too rustic. Different market different wants.
Cidu and others like Simons offers very good values for jackets that are in the ¥1,000 to ¥1,500 range ($150-$230). I can’t see the added value for the Horween name (almost double in price) when their standard leather is already same veg tan same thickness cowhide, just no Horween name.
 

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