Johnson Leather Jacket

Canuck Panda · Oct 25, 2021

roadking04 said:
@Jin431, Thanks buddy. I was curious about the snaps. It seems like they use more than most makers (my 618 only has 1 in the back). With the fur collar off, do all those snaps bother/rub on your neck at all?

Like Jin431 said, JL snap on/off collar is really well made. It covers the whole front and back and is very secure.

I got really sensitive skin so I asked for snap caps to cover the studs when I am not using the fur collar:

roadking04 · Oct 25, 2021

Thanks Panda. I was worried about all those snaps when the fur collar was off.

Canuck Panda · Oct 27, 2021

After going on countless blind dates, I have found the one. My soul mate pattern. Johnson Leathers' M(P)500

There was that 5 minute window this late afternoon when the rain paused, just long enough for the M(P)500 to see some natural light.
More details coming soon.

MrProper · Oct 27, 2021

It looks massive.
Terminator episode 11

Cool jacket.

Aloysius · Oct 27, 2021

I know that objectively Johnson is extremely high quality, but I haven’t seen many Johnson jackets that appeal to me as much as a Schott let alone custom makers. I assume this is because the only Johnson jackets I’ve seen are people’s extremely custom orders which are suited to their personal preferences.

Is there somewhere one might see their ‘standard’ jacket types? There’s a good chance I might be living nearby at some point soon so I’d love to get into their stuff.

(This isn't a dig, by the way! It's like how with bespoke tailors, the more 'plain' suits get commissioned and worn, not really posted online.)

Canuck Panda · Oct 27, 2021

@Aloysius
Sizing is stock, no change, just cosmetics, W collar to band collar, zip cuff to snap cuffs, and inverted pockets. The quilting is standard on the MP500 model I believe, some Police contracts asks for the padding, some don't.

The M(P)500 stock sizing:
Shoulder 18.5" Front 19.5" Back
P2P 23"
Hem 20.5" This can be tighten with the laces.
Sleeves 26"
Back 25" (Although both my M500 measures 24", so I think Johnson measures the old way including the collar)
Front length is 21" ish. This is the best part of the M(P)500 pattern IMO, The shorter front doesn't choke me to death.

The M(P) 500 is basically a West Coast (Vanson) Chopper, or a San Francisco Langlitz Cascade. Different than the Brando Perfecto's or D Pockets Buco's in the sense that its can get tighter at the waist without the belt. A West Coast thing. It is also an inch (or more) shorter than most Brando/Buco styled jackets, except the Vanson C2, which I assume is the same shorter length.

A few things Johnson does really well (And others too):
1) The way the main zip is sewn. The first 2/3 has exposed tape on the inside so it's easy to zip up. Only tucks in at the last 1/3. The only other maker that does this is Lost Worlds. But LW costs double in price. Vanson uses fully exposed inside tape, so he's going for function and not finesse. Aero has fully tucked in zip tape so it's prone to failure, if I don't go easy at the beginning.

Johnson M(P)500

LW J24

Vanson HighwayMan

Aero J106 Daytona

2) The JL also has no inside hem seams at the side gussets, so I was able to tighten it really good using the side laces. The Brando/Buco's are tighten by belt so this is not an issue. I should point out that LW and Vanson does French Seams on the inside hem to reduce bulk. Nice touches.

3) The JL also has a center pleat in the lining to give even more mobility. Vanson also does this. LW uses a bigger lining and I feel that his body fits differently to offset this. All good. I am just bias towards JL.

4) Stitching Craftsmanship - This slate cow JL was made with close to 2mm thick cow leather. And I appreciated that they did an excellent job. JL machine set up is between 6 to 7 stitches per inch. Not as high as LW. But I am not a stitch counter. Again I am bias towards JL. The M(P)500 is my soul mate pattern after all.

To be honest, I didn't think too much about Johnson before. That's why I went on more blind dates with other makers before the M(P)500. I actually tried a Vanson Chopper this summer but only XL left, and it just bagged out at the waist and was too long. If it weren't for this thread I would not have considered Johnson. And I am glad I did. My first M500 was so shockingly good I knew it was the One. Other jackets were great too, but everyone has their soul mate pattern. Mine just happens to be the M(P)500.

The math:
Stock M500 --- $650
Supply my own leather so minus <$150>
Maverick Horween Leather --- $300
Add fur collar (It feels like 20mm thick) --- $150
Cosmetic changes (Band collar, different pockets, snap cuffs, quilting) --- $200
Total dollars spent $1,150 (Price of an Aero but so much more)

Planning my third one...

Also to point out, even though Johnson Leather started in the 70's and not after the war like Langlitz and others, I believe it has more connection to the history of Northern California jacket makers in the past. Same with Golden Bear. I know it has become fashion now. But San Francisco garment district has a lot of history, that can trace back to the turn of the century or even older. Just remember, sewing is a skill that's been taught and passed down.

Aloysius · Oct 27, 2021

Absolutely, @Canuck Panda. I have no doubt about their quality and your post is very helpful. I’d just love to see even a simple model listing. On the other hand, if and when I move there I can just walk in!

red devil · Oct 27, 2021

It does suit you so well! Glad to see JL getting more appreciation, they really deserve it! Curious to see what you have cooking next, in what leathers

Psant25 · Oct 27, 2021

JL IG page they are making some cool jackets I hope this is a members

Psant25 · Oct 27, 2021

Aloysius said:
Absolutely, @Canuck Panda. I have no doubt about their quality and your post is very helpful. I’d just love to see even a simple model listing. On the other hand, if and when I move there I can just walk in!

JL made 6-7 custom jackets for me you can find them I think just using the search function. I don’t want to hijack the thread with reposts from old threads. Most mine were modified m200 classic center zip w collar or a chp style

Mrfrown · Oct 27, 2021

Canuck Panda said:
@Aloysius
Sizing is stock, no change, just cosmetics, W collar to band collar, zip cuff to snap cuffs, and inverted pockets. The quilting is standard on the MP500 model I believe, some Police contracts asks for the padding, some don't.

The M(P)500 stock sizing:
Shoulder 18.5" Front 19.5" Back
P2P 23"
Hem 20.5" This can be tighten with the laces.
Sleeves 26"
Back 25" (Although both my M500 measures 24", so I think Johnson measures the old way including the collar)
Front length is 21" ish. This is the best part of the M(P)500 pattern IMO, The shorter front doesn't choke me to death.

The M(P) 500 is basically a West Coast (Vanson) Chopper, or a San Francisco Langlitz Cascade. Different than the Brando Perfecto's or D Pockets Buco's in the sense that its can get tighter at the waist without the belt. A West Coast thing. It is also an inch (or more) shorter than most Brando/Buco styled jackets, except the Vanson C2, which I assume is the same shorter length.

A few things Johnson does really well (And others too):
1) The way the main zip is sewn. The first 2/3 has exposed tape on the inside so it's easy to zip up. Only tucks in at the last 1/3. The only other maker that does this is Lost Worlds. But LW costs double in price. Vanson uses fully exposed inside tape, so he's going for function and not finesse. Aero has fully tucked in zip tape so it's prone to failure, if I don't go easy at the beginning.

Johnson M(P)500
View attachment 373419

LW J24
View attachment 373421

Vanson HighwayMan
View attachment 373422

Aero J106 Daytona
View attachment 373423
2) The JL also has no inside hem seams at the side gussets, so I was able to tighten it really good using the side laces. The Brando/Buco's are tighten by belt so this is not an issue. I should point out that LW and Vanson does French Seams on the inside hem to reduce bulk. Nice touches.

3) The JL also has a center pleat in the lining to give even more mobility. Vanson also does this. LW uses a bigger lining and I feel that his body fits differently to offset this. All good. I am just bias towards JL.

4) Stitching Craftsmanship - This slate cow JL was made with close to 2mm thick cow leather. And I appreciated that they did an excellent job. JL machine set up is between 6 to 7 stitches per inch. Not as high as LW. But I am not a stitch counter. Again I am bias towards JL. The M(P)500 is my soul mate pattern after all.

View attachment 373424
View attachment 373425
To be honest, I didn't think too much about Johnson before. That's why I went on more blind dates with other makers before the M(P)500. I actually tried a Vanson Chopper this summer but only XL left, and it just bagged out at the waist and was too long. If it weren't for this thread I would not have considered Johnson. And I am glad I did. My first M500 was so shockingly good I knew it was the One. Other jackets were great too, but everyone has their soul mate pattern. Mine just happens to be the M(P)500.

The math:
Stock M500 --- $650
Supply my own leather so minus <$150>
Maverick Horween Leather --- $300
Add fur collar (It feels like 20mm thick) --- $150
Cosmetic changes (Band collar, different pockets, snap cuffs, quilting) --- $200
Total dollars spent $1,150 (Price of an Aero but so much more)

Planning my third one...

Also to point out, even though Johnson Leather started in the 70's and not after the war like Langlitz and others, I believe it has more connection to the history of Northern California jacket makers in the past. Same with Golden Bear. I know it has become fashion now. But San Francisco garment district has a lot of history, that can trace back to the turn of the century or even older. Just remember, sewing is a skill that's been taught and passed down.

Appreciate all the details!

Is that stock size 42?

Been wanting a padded jacket, possibly a columbia, chopper, or one of the Thedi offerings…this however looks really nice!

Mrfrown · Oct 27, 2021

Also to elaborate more-

Getting another jacket from them I’d like to do something they’ve done a lot, in the closest stock size that makes sense, maybe with small mods (especially if sleeve is too long?) maybe not. Preferably in a heartier leather than the Horween Vermont from my last project.

At some point I’d like to replace my Bates, as much as I like it. The stiff panel on the back is just not my jam.

Canuck Panda · Oct 27, 2021

red devil said:
It does suit you so well! Glad to see JL getting more appreciation, they really deserve it! Curious to see what you have cooking next, in what leathers

I am setting up a petting zoo, a horse, a sheep and some bovines. JL is really a neat shop, with almost unlimited possibilities. Can't wait to see your upcoming JL's!

Psant25 said:
JL made 6-7 custom jackets for me you can find them I think just using the search function. I don’t want to hijack the thread with reposts from old threads. Most mine were modified m200 classic center zip w collar or a chp style

Your old threads were the reason I went in for a M200. Thank you!
@Aloysius Just google Johnson Leather M200, that's what I did.

Psant25 said:
JL IG page they are making some cool jackets I hope this is a members
View attachment 373458 View attachment 373459

This is the first JL I've seen that has a drop in the front. Nice.

Mrfrown said:
Appreciate all the details!

Is that stock size 42?

Been wanting a padded jacket, possibly a columbia, chopper, or one of the Thedi offerings…this however looks really nice!

The M500 is size 40 for those sizes (P2P 23"). They fit one size bigger I think. It's designed so the cops can fit a work vest underneath I believe.
The Columbia can get expensive when you add up the options. But it's a Langlitz! I got in line on a Cascade for their 75th anniversary label. I was inspired by Ralph:

Can't go wrong with either Columbia/Chopper/Thedi. But my vote goes to Columbia. Although their measuring process keeps me awake at nights. Hope I don't become one of the Langlitz horror stories here.

red devil · Oct 28, 2021

Canuck Panda said:
I am setting up a petting zoo, a horse, a sheep and some bovines. JL is really a neat shop, with almost unlimited possibilities. Can't wait to see your upcoming JL's!

Sometimes I wonder if they are not really unlimited...

Goel · Oct 28, 2021

They have a nice CXL overdye that I'm considering getting skivved down to a more manageable 2.5oz as well as a nice goatskin that's the same weight. Currently debating between the two for a very special jean jacket.

JMax · Oct 28, 2021

CXL is nice…

Aloysius · Oct 28, 2021

That is one of the most attractive CXL jackets I've ever seen. (Jackets period, really.)

Jin431 · Oct 28, 2021

Canuck Panda said:
After going on countless blind dates, I have found the one. My soul mate pattern. Johnson Leathers' M(P)500

View attachment 373261
View attachment 373262
View attachment 373263
View attachment 373264
View attachment 373265
View attachment 373266
There was that 5 minute window this late afternoon when the rain paused, just long enough for the M(P)500 to see some natural light.
More details coming soon.

this looks and fits very nice! congrats brother and thanks for the great write up. the padded shoulder/elbow looks awesome.

Psant25 said:
JL IG page they are making some cool jackets I hope this is a members
View attachment 373458 View attachment 373459

not one of mine for sure, I wonder who ordered this. it's a little wild in a good way.

Mrfrown said:
Also to elaborate more-

Getting another jacket from them I’d like to do something they’ve done a lot, in the closest stock size that makes sense, maybe with small mods (especially if sleeve is too long?) maybe not. Preferably in a heartier leather than the Horween Vermont from my last project.

At some point I’d like to replace my Bates, as much as I like it. The stiff panel on the back is just not my jam.

can't wait to see what quilted design you'll get and what leather you'll go for.

JMax said:
CXL is nice…

View attachment 373509

mean mug of a jacket every time I see this. so nice.

MrProper · Oct 29, 2021

Let's say I want an M-200 or DEL-66 from Johnson leather... what leather and lining would you guys recommend?

red devil · Oct 29, 2021

MrProper said:
Let's say I want an M-200 or DEL-66 from Johnson leather... what leather and lining would you guys recommend?

They can get (almost?) everything you wish for. so what type of lether do you want?

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