Dating Vintage Stetsons by Liner: A Field Guide

AbbaDatDeHat · Nov 18, 2021

DaveProc said:
Stetson Trademarks
1895
View attachment 379763

Very cool Dave, thanks.

DaveProc · Nov 19, 2021

AbbaDatDeHat said:
Very cool Dave, thanks.

Anytime

TexasAg’84 · Nov 27, 2021

Howdy from Wimberley, Texas. So I went into Blanco, Tx to Herb’s Hat Shop and bought a new Stetson Silverbelly Open Road. Afterwards I stepped into an antique shop down the block and found this Royal DeLux Stetson (Hess Brothers Allentown PA) chocolate brown bowler. To my surprise it is my size. And it came with the original box. Hat is in pristine condition. I’m guessing it was a gift and placed on the closet shelf and never worn. From earlier posts, based on the liner crest, appears to be late ‘50s. Thoughts?

Frunobulax · Nov 27, 2021

TexasAg’84 said:
Howdy from Wimberley, Texas. So I went into Blanco, Tx to Herb’s Hat Shop and bought a new Stetson Silverbelly Open Road. Afterwards I stepped into an antique shop down the block and found this Royal DeLux Stetson (Hess Brothers Allentown PA) chocolate brown bowler. To my surprise it is my size. And it came with the original box. Hat is in pristine condition. I’m guessing it was a gift and placed on the closet shelf and never worn. From earlier posts, based on the liner crest, appears to be late ‘50s. Thoughts?

I think I like it.

StoryPNW · Nov 27, 2021

Here is the liner on the 3x I just bought, I don't think I have seen one quite like it on here. Really cool copper color.

deadlyhandsome · Nov 27, 2021

TexasAg’84 said:
Howdy from Wimberley, Texas. So I went into Blanco, Tx to Herb’s Hat Shop and bought a new Stetson Silverbelly Open Road. Afterwards I stepped into an antique shop down the block and found this Royal DeLux Stetson (Hess Brothers Allentown PA) chocolate brown bowler. To my surprise it is my size. And it came with the original box. Hat is in pristine condition. I’m guessing it was a gift and placed on the closet shelf and never worn. From earlier posts, based on the liner crest, appears to be late ‘50s. Thoughts?

my guess is late 1950s through mid 1960s.

TexasAg’84 · Nov 28, 2021

deadlyhandsome said:
my guess is late 1950s through mid 1960s.

Thank you for the confirmation on dating this bowler. And thanks to all for the likes. I’m very pleased with this addition to my small collection of lids.

Rmccamey · Nov 29, 2021

Wow, you are coming into the Lounge in a big way! Brown bowlers are rare. Hope you enjoy that one. You will have to point me to your Blanco antique store as I plan to be in that area before Christmas. Welcome to the Lounge. Here is my brown Resistol soft felt bowler.

TexasAg’84 said:
Howdy from Wimberley, Texas. So I went into Blanco, Tx to Herb’s Hat Shop and bought a new Stetson Silverbelly Open Road. Afterwards I stepped into an antique shop down the block and found this Royal DeLux Stetson (Hess Brothers Allentown PA) chocolate brown bowler. To my surprise it is my size. And it came with the original box. Hat is in pristine condition. I’m guessing it was a gift and placed on the closet shelf and never worn. From earlier posts, based on the liner crest, appears to be late ‘50s. Thoughts?

TexasAg’84 · Nov 29, 2021

Rmccamey, thank you for the welcome. Nice bowler! I enjoy a variety of hats. This is my first bowler. The shop in Blanco is Cranberry's Antiques, right on the town square. I recommend RedBud cafe or Ole 300 BBQ for a bite to eat. Stop in Herb's Hat Shop right across from Ole 300 BBQ too. Enjoy your visit.

StoryPNW · Nov 29, 2021

Just out off question, is the 3x I posted above likely 50s? That was my lightly educated guess, but I'm still learning.

alanfgag · Nov 30, 2021

StoryPNW said:
Just out off question, is the 3x I posted above likely 50s? That was my lightly educated guess, but I'm still learning.

I think your guess is good… late 1950s to 1960 would be my guess.

Richard Fellows · Dec 9, 2021

New member. I was given my GreatGrandfathers hat who died in 1933. I’ve read all of this and other threads on dating vintage Stetsons. Can someone verify or correct my assumption that it is an early 1930 Derby? Also, what would the felt be made of, there are no X’s or mention of Beaver. Thanks for your expertise.

Richard Fellows · Dec 15, 2021

Richard Fellows said:
New member. I was given my GreatGrandfathers hat who died in 1933. I’ve read all of this and other threads on dating vintage Stetsons. Can someone verify or correct my assumption that it is an early 1930 Derby? Also, what would the felt be made of, there are no X’s or mention of Beaver. Thanks for your expertise.

Hi all Loungers, is there a problem with my request for help identifying the date made and felt type? Lots of you looked, but I've had no replies. This was my 1st post here so if I did something incorrect please let me know.

Just Daniel · Dec 15, 2021

There is no problem, sometimes there is just a lag in responses. You are correct, this is a 30s hat. That is a very early version of the Stetson Royal mark, the trademark first use in commerce date is 1935.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/stetson-intellectual-property-data.101506/

No one really knows what the felt is made of, although it is probably mostly or completely rabbit fur felt. I base this opinion on the thin premise that if it had beaver or nutria fur in it, Stetson would have labeled it a beaver or nutria hat. It’s thin, but it’s all I have to justify my opinion.

Richard Fellows said:
New member. I was given my GreatGrandfathers hat who died in 1933. I’ve read all of this and other threads on dating vintage Stetsons. Can someone verify or correct my assumption that it is an early 1930 Derby? Also, what would the felt be made of, there are no X’s or mention of Beaver. Thanks for your expertise.

alanfgag · Dec 15, 2021

Richard Fellows said:
New member. I was given my GreatGrandfathers hat who died in 1933. I’ve read all of this and other threads on dating vintage Stetsons. Can someone verify or correct my assumption that it is an early 1930 Derby? Also, what would the felt be made of, there are no X’s or mention of Beaver. Thanks for your expertise.

Robieman said:
Picked up this 3X western recently. View attachment 387693
The 3X designation in the sweat is different than most. View attachment 387694
Both roundels have the stars, and the liner doesn’t have plastic on it.
View attachment 387696
View attachment 387695
Has this label concerning the liner, and the reorder labels.
View attachment 387697
View attachment 387698
Anyone have an idea when this one was born?
Edit: thought I’d add the size tag and store stamp.
View attachment 387744
View attachment 387745

My guess is that your great grandfather's death predates this hat. It is from the 1930s but the gold printed keyhole size tag likely puts it later in the decade. If you can safely find the LOTXXXX number stamped on the back side of the sweatband near the front of the hat, that might shed some additional light. Use a mirror to peek so as not to pop stitches on the sweatband.

Richard Fellows · Dec 17, 2021

Just Daniel said:
There is no problem, sometimes there is just a lag in responses. You are correct, this is a 30s hat. That is a very early version of the Stetson Royal mark, the trademark first use in commerce date is 1935.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/stetson-intellectual-property-data.101506/

No one really knows what the felt is made of, although it is probably mostly or completely rabbit fur felt. I base this opinion on the thin premise that if it had beaver or nutria fur in it, Stetson would have labeled it a beaver or nutria hat. It’s thin, but it’s all I have to justify my opinion.

Richard Fellows · Dec 17, 2021

Thanks Daniel. The felt is in 100% perfect condition since it’s been in a hat box all these years. I appreciate your help.

Richard Fellows · Dec 17, 2021

alanfgag said:
My guess is that your great grandfather's death predates this hat. It is from the 1930s but the gold printed keyhole size tag likely puts it later in the decade. If you can safely find the LOTXXXX number stamped on the back side of the sweatband near the front of the hat, that might shed some additional light. Use a mirror to peek so as not to pop stitches on the sweatband.

Richard Fellows · Dec 17, 2021

Thanks Alan. The bowler was in a hatbox mark with my Great Grandmothers initials and I was told it was her husbands, my Great Grandfather’s hat. It is very possible it belonged to her since she lived to 1951. They were high society in Chester Illinois in the 1800’s so it’s not too far of a stretch to see her wearing it, only the hat size, 7-1/2, makes it more plausible it was his.

alanfgag · Dec 17, 2021

Richard Fellows said:
Thanks Alan. The bowler was in a hatbox mark with my Great Grandmothers initials and I was told it was her husbands, my Great Grandfather’s hat. It is very possible it belonged to her since she lived to 1951. They were high society in Chester Illinois in the 1800’s so it’s not too far of a stretch to see her wearing it, only the hat size, 7-1/2, makes it more plausible it was his.

Great to have the hat connected with family history. The dating tools we have around these parts are more art than science. Samples with date stamps are few and far between.

Stetson hat size was marked with a small round sticker affixed to the sweatband for much of the 1920s and 1930s, moving to a paper keyhole tag sewn behind the sweatband at some point in the 1930s. The size tag in your hat is the early version of the keyhole tag. It was used into the early 1940s when it loses the two color printing for a simpler black ink on manila card stock. My impression from examples is that the paper tag came into use later than 1933, but it is only an impression gleaned from a relatively small set of survivors. Thanks for posting your example.

Dating Vintage Stetsons by Liner: A Field Guide

I'll Lock Up

I'll Lock Up

New in Town

Attachments

Practically Family

New in Town

I'll Lock Up

New in Town

Practically Family

New in Town

Attachments

New in Town

One Too Many

New in Town

New in Town

New in Town

New in Town

Similar threads

Log in

Forum statistics