Finds and Deals - Leather Jacket Edition

Will Zach · Jan 6, 2022

Roughout Cal, Large. Ain't never seen one like that, and neither did the seller.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265486668839?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11021.m43.l1120&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=62d3db507df14941909ec991eb3728c6&bu=43365961094&ut=RU&osub=-1~1&crd=20220106074008&segname=11021&sojTags=ch=ch,bu=bu,ut=ut,osub=osub,crd=crd,segname=segname,chnl=mkcid

Claybertrand · Jan 7, 2022

EXTREMELY KILLER!!!!!!!!!!!! I would have hit the BIN if this were 2 sizes larger. That said, the Sellers Measurements are off for sure. Listing an 18" p2p AND 18" Shoulders..... for a 42..... even a True Vintage 42 is not correct. I haven't seen one like this before. Great Patina and a really really cool back. Price is not unreasonable either IMO for what this jacket is. Someone will get something special here.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265487979973?hash=item3dd05115c5:g:n38AAOSwmS1h13eJ&LH_ItemCondition=4|10

JMax · Jan 7, 2022

Will Zach said:
Roughout Cal, Large. Ain't never seen one like that, and neither did the seller.

View attachment 393265

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265486668839?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11021.m43.l1120&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=62d3db507df14941909ec991eb3728c6&bu=43365961094&ut=RU&osub=-1~1&crd=20220106074008&segname=11021&sojTags=ch=ch,bu=bu,ut=ut,osub=osub,crd=crd,segname=segname,chnl=mkcid

That would be me. Off to NYC. Following my SG.

JMax · Jan 7, 2022

Claybertrand said:
EXTREMELY KILLER!!!!!!!!!!!! I would have hit the BIN if this were 2 sizes larger. That said, the Sellers Measurements are off for sure. Listing an 18" p2p AND 18" Shoulders..... for a 42..... even a True Vintage 42 is not correct. I haven't seen one like this before. Great Patina and a really really cool back. Price is not unreasonable either IMO for what this jacket is. Someone will get something special here.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265487979973?hash=item3dd05115c5:g:n38AAOSwmS1h13eJ&LH_ItemCondition=4|10

I almost hit the BIN. If only to turn around and sell it for twice as much to Ton, TM or JB. Lol. I’ve been watching too much Billions. Incredible jacket though. If it’s a California Sportwear jacket, it may fit me. My Herc is a 42.

Yamahana · Jan 7, 2022

He sent me pic measurements just shy of 23” chest, 23.5” back length, 23.5” sleeve. If it were bigger it would’ve been gone hours ago

pilot error · Jan 7, 2022

I shouldn't see these things.......that's a pre war jacket if I ever saw one, but the zipper pull is 1950's and after.

pilot error · Jan 7, 2022

I shouldn't see these things.......that's a pre war jacket if I ever saw one, but the zipper pull is 1950's and after.

pilot error · Jan 7, 2022

Screenshot 2022-01-06 at 23-36-36 1930s Montgomery Ward Pony Horsehide aviator cossack jacket.png

Screenshot 2022-01-06 at 23-36-01 IMG_0009-1 jpg (WEBP Image, 746 × 1080 pixels) — Scaled (95%).png

tmitchell59 · Jan 7, 2022

pilot error said:
I shouldn't see these things.......that's a pre war jacket if I ever saw one, but the zipper pull is 1950's and after.

A deceiving jacket, part of it's appeal. Looks pre-war, but is late 40s. I call it the Cat's Eye. I have one in black unlabeled. Someone tipped me to the same jacket with this MW label. I have never seen this jacket with a California Sportwear label, they have this MW label or none, like mine. I just got information that confirms they were made by CSC. A questions regarding the label stitching on another jacket keyed me in. It is on this jacket.

The pull is missing on this jacket, but has the post-war Talon stop. They show up with the "new" pull and the old stop; late 40s early 50s.

I don't think I have seen this in Brown.

This zipper has been re-sewn on the stop side, the male looks original. This is the stop I would expect.

This Mission leather is pre-war. These two button cuff closures are more often seen in the pre-war jackets.

These Cats Eye are probably the last of the advertised "Aviator Style" that showed up in the Montgomery Wards catalogs. Sears ended this style around 1949.
This is Hercules form 1948, the last of the Aviator Style. In the same time frame as the Wards jacket. Last of the Breed.

tmitchell59 · Jan 7, 2022

The Black Cat's Eye has been one of my favorite I can't wear jackets. I've made many comments on my youtube channel about this jacket, raved about it, but can't wear it. It always surprises me how heavy it is, very substantial Horsehide

Now confirmed they are California Sportswear.

I guess it was put up or shut up on the Brown one. I put in for a small discount, but saw the interest mounting and just hit the full BIN. I'm broke from buying another CSC MC, but could not resist.

Will Zach · Jan 7, 2022

^^
Damn.

ton312 · Jan 7, 2022

I saw that one. Was tempted. I feared the back length and for me I know it wouldn’t work. I’ve only seen one other, sold on Etsy, 10 years ago. Still in my favorites.

Monitor · Jan 7, 2022

ton312 said:
I saw that one. Was tempted. I feared the back length and for me I know it wouldn’t work. I’ve only seen one other, sold on Etsy, 10 years ago. Still in my favorites.
View attachment 393475 View attachment 393476

This is perfect, seriously.

tmitchell59 · Jan 7, 2022

ton312 said:
I saw that one. Was tempted. I feared the back length and for me I know it wouldn’t work. I’ve only seen one other, sold on Etsy, 10 years ago. Still in my favorites.

That is the labeled jacket that I remember and it is brown. I've got one and seen a couple of others. I doubt there are many as this was the last stand for the Aviator style. They do not show up past 1948 in the Sears catalog. With the War over maybe people wanted to move on? They may have just looked "old fashioned". They do carry over a style that goes back to the 30s.

Did you have one of the late 50s Hercules Aviators as pictured above? I know @jonbuilder has one, maybe the same one?

These jackets are short. At my height I'm about right.

Claybertrand · Jan 7, 2022

ton312 said:
I saw that one. Was tempted. I feared the back length and for me I know it wouldn’t work. I’ve only seen one other, sold on Etsy, 10 years ago. Still in my favorites.
View attachment 393475 View attachment 393476

In my experience, the MW jackets with this green label ALL run short, at least, for my taste. I know labels are not specifically indicative of measurements but I think just these older MWs (that tend to have the green labels) maybe just all run short. I have had 2 -- although not nearly as cool as this one Terry nabbed-- and both have been really short (23.5" as I recall). I have given up on anything with a back length shorter than 25" and I would actually prefer 26-27" but good luck finding that length when hunting true vintage jackets.

I really like this design a lot. The Aviator Cross Zips are the coolest Cross Zips IMO---maybe its part their rarity. You just don't see them often in a world seemingly CHOCK FULL of Cross Zip Moto jackets, the vast majority falling into the "Brando"/Perfecto/Ramones style. Maybe like Terry has theorized, they had a WAR feel/look to them that people just wanted to wash outta their mouths. The Motorcycle jackets that took their place -- we all know sort of evolved from the post war period going forward along with the burgeoning American motorcycle culture that was largely carried by returning servicemen. Could be that late 40s was the transition point fashion wise from the Aviator toward the more commonly known classic cross zip designs.

At least now I know I'm not the only one who saves countless SOLD jackets in my Etsy favorites....

tmitchell59 · Jan 7, 2022

Claybertrand said:
hey had a WAR feel/look to them that people just wanted to wash outta their mouths. The Motorcycle jackets that took their place -- we all know sort of evolved from the post war period going forward along with the burgeoning American motorcycle culture that was largely carried by returning servicemen. Could be that late 40s was the transition point fashion wise from the Aviator toward the more commonly known classic cross zip designs.

I'm going to review the Sears catalogs for the first Aviation style jacket they cataloged. The cross zip style is an interesting style to trace back. I see the end of the style around 1948 as the cross zip MC jacket took over.

tmitchell59 · Jan 7, 2022

This is first Aviator Style jacket in the Sears Catalog-1938

AeroFan_07 · Jan 7, 2022

tmitchell59 said:
Now confirmed they are California Sportswear.

I guess it was put up or shut up on the Brown one. I put in for a small discount, but saw the interest mounting and just hit the full BIN. I'm broke from buying another CSC MC, but could not resist.

Great catch on this "Cat's eye" Terry! Really looks like a great jacket in a style that perhaps should be reproduced. Really like the details on this one and the back of it as well.

Claybertrand · Jan 7, 2022

tmitchell59 said:
This is first Aviator Style jacket in the Sears Catalog-1938

View attachment 393594

There was a time when I myself was in fact, "a wiry young Mustang"...........

I'm sure I'm not the only one.....

I wonder if they were killing wild horses at this time in the U.S. ...... Killing young mustangs for their hides and marketing your product with that information in the ad is interesting....... as if the public already had an understanding that Horse leather was something premium and/or tough. These days, I think one of the reasons we are enamored with Horsehide is not only the leather quality and graining etc. -- but also the fact that it seems sort of exotic with maybe even a slight sense of taboo (at least--in the U.S.) being that it isn't legal here anymore to domestically slaughter horses. Most of us don't see them as hide (or food) source animals -- but as pets and/or athletes (race horses) so the fact that you can buy garments made of their hides is maybe where the sense of taboo (for lack of a better word) comes in.

@tmitchell59 I am always interested in these old ads!!! So many historic elements to see and think about.... from prices to how the people are portrayed to the Advertising Copy.....

It does seem you are onto something seeing the Aviator style start to fade in the Late 40s. The ads are great evidence of this evolution.

Claybertrand · Jan 7, 2022

AeroFan_07 said:
Great catch on this "Cat's eye" Terry! Really looks like a great jacket in a style that perhaps should be reproduced. Really like the details on this one and the back of it as well.

100% Agree!!! This jacket checks many boxes style wise. The front is great but the back is even better. Cool color.....subtle but noticeable patina. GREAT get @tmitchell59 for sure.

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