They just don't compare

slicedbread · Mar 7, 2008

Can't say that I like the fit of either of those suits, but GS's is better than the second guy's...

And also to note, they do look decidedly vintage.

iammatt · Mar 7, 2008

While the pant style is sure to be hated here as it is far from anachronistic, there are plenty of tailors who like working in heavy fabrics and who make clothing that is as good or better as it was made way back when. True, you cannot find it off the rack, but if you go to a good tailor, it is quite available.

manton · Mar 7, 2008

Modern suits all:

8 ounce worsted:

15 ounce worsted:

16 ounce worsted:

Mr. Rover · Mar 7, 2008

iammatt said:
While the pant style is sure to be hated here as it is far from anachronistic, there are plenty of tailors who like working in heavy fabrics and who make clothing that is as good or better as it was made way back when. True, you cannot find it off the rack, but if you go to a good tailor, it is quite available.

That's a very well cut suit- looks like it was straight out of the Duke of Windsor or Astaire's closet...timeless. It looks like it has some drape in the chest, and I like the cut of the pants with the 1 3/4"-2"-looking cuffs.
This silhouette from the cover of Fred Astaire Style always strikes me as very dashing and he has a slightly tapered trouser, like yours.

Mr. Rover · Mar 7, 2008

manton said:
Modern suits all:

8 ounce worsted:

15 ounce worsted:

16 ounce worsted:

Anderson & Sheppard?

manton · Mar 7, 2008

Nope, though the last one was made by an A&S trained tailor.

Mr. Rover · Mar 8, 2008

I like the button-stance, but for an even more 30s look, and not to nit-pick a beautiful suit, it would be nice to see them use a wider wrap and larger buttons. I believe Jack requested they use "overcoat" buttons the last time he had a DB suit made from Hamerjani or however you spell it- I should've done the same with my suit from Sam's in Hong Kong. It's a difficult balance between too small and 70s buffoonery.

manton · Mar 8, 2008

Well, those are DB buttons, 24 ligne, I would not want bigger on a suit. As to the wrap, that's pretty wide for me, wider than most tailors do it. I would not want to go wider, as you start to get into Harry Truman fireplug DB territory.

Jovan · Mar 8, 2008

Could have fooled me! The cut of the two button suits look a lot like something A&S would make. On second glance, while the lapels look pretty close, there would need to be more drape and unconstructedness. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Manton, do you wear the latter two on colder days only or like to wear weightier stuff in general? Just curious.

Mr. Rover · Mar 8, 2008

manton said:
Well, those are DB buttons, 24 ligne, I would not want bigger on a suit. As to the wrap, that's pretty wide for me, wider than most tailors do it. I would not want to go wider, as you start to get into Harry Truman fireplug DB territory.

Well as long as you're satisfied, then it's worth it. :eusa_clap

Matt Deckard · Mar 8, 2008

manton said:
Well, those are DB buttons, 24 ligne, I would not want bigger on a suit. As to the wrap, that's pretty wide for me, wider than most tailors do it. I would not want to go wider, as you start to get into Harry Truman fireplug DB territory.

I think buttonwise, they tend to look diminutive on you because you are so tall.
for a more 30's look I'd just say less drape and a shorter skirt.

I think you can go a little wider with the button stance as without fear... Truman was a pretty well dressed guy. your figure is so far from Truman's why not compare it to someone a bit narrower?

I also think you can do with a lapel that points out a little more than up... you don't need any more elongation.

iammatt · Mar 8, 2008

Mr. Rover said:
That's a very well cut suit- looks like it was straight out of the Duke of Windsor or Astaire's closet...timeless. It looks like it has some drape in the chest, and I like the cut of the pants with the 1 3/4"-2"-looking cuffs.
This silhouette from the cover of Fred Astaire Style always strikes me as very dashing and he has a slightly tapered trouser, like yours.

Thanks, Ray.

manton · Mar 8, 2008

Narrow wrap DB (different tailor). Keep in mind that I am not really going for a vintage look, more '30s inspired than true '30s.

manton · Mar 8, 2008

Jovan said:
Could have fooled me! The cut of the two button suits look a lot like something A&S would make. On second glance, while the lapels look pretty close, there would need to be more drape and unconstructedness. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Manton, do you wear the latter two on colder days only or like to wear weightier stuff in general? Just curious.

It's not as draped as A&S, but probably even less constructed and more soft.

I can wear those heavy worsteds in 50 odd degree weather, maybe up to the high 50s if I skip the vest. Flannels, no way.

iammatt · Mar 8, 2008

manton said:
It's not as draped as A&S, but probably even less constructed and more soft.

I can wear those heavy worsteds in 50 odd degree weather, maybe up to the high 50s if I skip the vest. Flannels, no way.

Just my opinions...

I don't think that the coats I have seen from Anderson are that soft at all. They look softer than they feel.

I can wear 12-14 oz worsted and flannel up to the low 60s, but I am not heat sensitive.

manton · Mar 8, 2008

A guy I used to work with was my size in the shoulders but shorter. I tried some of his coats on a number of times. Oh, lord, were they soft. But these were "old" A&S, Colin Harvey A&S.

I don't know if this is unique to me, but I flannel at the same weight wears much hotter than worsted.

iammatt · Mar 8, 2008

manton said:
A guy I used to work with was my size in the shoulders but shorter. I tried some of his coats on a number of times. Oh, lord, were they soft. But these were "old" A&S, Colin Harvey A&S.

I don't know if this is unique to me, but I flannel at the same weight wears much hotter than worsted.

I do think flannel wears hotter, but I think it is more the way it traps moisture and humidity.

I made a point of wearing winter suits this week as the weather is warming and I wanted to get one more wear out of each of them before it got too hot. I was really surprised how little heat I felt, but I have been finding that I get colder and colder as I get older.

manton · Mar 8, 2008

iammatt said:
but I have been finding that I get colder and colder as I get older.

This is why my parents spend Feb/March in Scottsdale, and why half their friends have homes in Palm Springs.

Matt Deckard · Mar 8, 2008

I understand the worry about looking like Truman when you are thick and short, but you're not you are tall, and having the buttons at a closer stance just ads to an Ichabod Crane gangliness that comes from being tall.

Lapels facing away rather than up, more fit and less drape and a bit of a shorter skirt would in my opinion make it look a bit more balanced visually. But again that's just me liking the vintage aesthetic over the modern.

Jovan · Mar 8, 2008

Horizontal peaks on double breasteds will always look good. :eusa_clap

They just don't compare

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