custom/MTM suit, where to start? guidance needed!

Q Money · Apr 21, 2008

Hi everybody, new to this forum and I've been lurking quietly for a few weeks before finally registering. Any suggestion for my problem would be most appreciated!

I'm in LA/OC California and can only wear suits that are custom/MTM because I'm 5'5 and 125lbs - 36 regular/37 short, depending on maker.

So among the "quality" major brands, are my only options for MTM: Oxxford, Zegna, Brioni? Or save $2 grand and go Brooks Brothers?

Is there anybody else in the $2000 range besides BB? I hear people here mention that bespoke can be had for around $2000, but where do I even start to find these secret tailors?

Also, has anybody purchased a suit from the Hemrajani brothers of Hong Kong through www.mytailor.com ? Andy from "askandyaboutclothes" loves them, and they appear to charge about $1500 for a full custom measured suit. I'm tempted to try them, but would like to hear input (both negative and positive) from those who have had a suit made with them.

Thanks for your guidance!

GBR · Apr 21, 2008

Can I suggest that you use the search facility?

There are a number of threads on some of these especially Hemrajani.

Marty M. · Apr 21, 2008

I know a place in Minneapolis. Sorry, shameless plug :eusa_doh: . Oh, welcome to the Lounge Q Money.
Marty Mathis

Flitcraft · Apr 21, 2008

I would check a place I know in Minneapolis..DOH!

CharlestonBows · Apr 21, 2008

Marty M. said:
I know a place in Minneapolis. Sorry, shameless plug :eusa_doh: . Oh, welcome to the Lounge Q Money.
Marty Mathis

Or maybe a place in Charleston? lol

There are some really good MTM companies out there that make a really good product. But don't pay so much attention to the banner names. With the major lines (including BB), you're paying for the name and the advertising, not necessarily a stellar difference in quality (with the exception of maybe Oxxford, but you're still paying for the name there, too).

My suggestion, and maybe it's bias: The key to good MTM is in the clothier you get it from. If they've got a good reputation, good longevity, and you feel comfortable with them personally, then chances are they're gonna have a good MTM product. What's more, they'll usually have a more intimate working knowledge of their lines, and of you, and they can service the garment that much better because of it. MTM and semi-bespoke is a personal thing, and that extra personal knowledge and touch makes a huge difference in the garment.

rjbaal · Apr 21, 2008

Try LS MENS Clothing in New York. They are an askandy sponsor. I too am 5'5" but at 165lbs (used to work out a lot) I am hard to fit. LS has been making my suits for 10 years with great results. One of their vendors is Copley. They have a great MTM program. The suit can be done in about 3 weeks. I am sure that if you supply Izzy with your measurements, he could send you a suit and have the final tailoring done locally.

Good Luck

rjbaal

resortes805 · Apr 21, 2008

Well....what kind of suit do you want?

Are you looking for (a) a noticeably modern suit but with nice vintage details, or (b) a dead-on reproduction of a vintage suit or (c) neither? If you are looking for a suit that looks vintage, than honestly, you are the perfect size for most of the vintage suits that I've seen here in California. If your waist size is anywhere between 30-33 inches (and I mean your natural waist, not your hips) than you've got it made in the shade when it comes to suits.

Personally, I love custom work, but that's because there really aren't that many suits available to me with certain outrageous details that I like in my size. You may want to go the vintage route, and end up saving tons of dough while your at it.

StanleyVanBuren · Apr 21, 2008

You may want to check this out:

http://www.jimmyaus.com/

Bugsy · Apr 22, 2008

I have purchased three suits from from mytailor.com and have been more than happy with them. I have actually people stop on the street and asked me where I bought the suits. I don't think you can go wrong here. Also try some of their bespoke shirts.

kschurch · Apr 23, 2008

Try Deckard & Newcastle

Q Money,

It will serve you well to check with Matt Deckard who is a popular and extremely knowlegeable member of the Fedora Lounge. He and his partner have started a suit business under the label of "Deckard & Newcastle" and they may have just what you're looking for. I've seen his product and it looks and functions wonderfully.

You can send him a private message through this forum and I'm sure he'll be able to help you. Also, he lives in your area.

A very good guy to know.

Good luck,

Church

Q Money · Apr 23, 2008

Thanks all

I did find the search function very useful and read many old threads reviewing mytailor.com!

Yes, it does appear Matt is "the man" around here and his opinions have been very helpful.

My taste incorporates the forgotten details and favorite stylings of the past with a few modern details (straying away from the extra large lapels and the high waistline).

Matt Deckard · Apr 23, 2008

The site will be up and running in the next few days.

Hopefully we have what you are looking for. As for fit... We are a custom fit tailoring shop, so we can make any adjustments you want. Jack and I are brining to life some pretty good cuts when it comes to design... stay tuned.

Check out the thread on the Lounge.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=29316

At home groovin' to some wily tunes,

Matt Deckard

silhouette53 · May 5, 2008

How About UK ?

This isn't quite as crazy as it might at first appear - air fares from / to US / UK aren't that great so . . . . . . . . why not plan a holiday to England and visit my hometown of Birmingham LOL
I had a truly exceptional suit made by these guys for the very reasonable price of GB£700.00 and all I can say is you will NOT be disappointed with what they can do for you. I'm sure they could do it fairly quickly for you too.

http://www.rosenandnathan.co.uk/

Q Money · May 9, 2008

As soon as the $Dollar goes up!

silhouette53 said:
This isn't quite as crazy as it might at first appear - air fares from / to US / UK aren't that great so . . . . . . . . why not plan a holiday to England and visit my hometown of Birmingham LOL
I had a truly exceptional suit made by these guys for the very reasonable price of GB£700.00 and all I can say is you will NOT be disappointed with what they can do for you. I'm sure they could do it fairly quickly for you too.

http://www.rosenandnathan.co.uk/

The last time I was in Italy in 2002, I had a blast buying clothes you couldn't get in the U.S. Unfortunately, future shopping plans to Europe went on hold when we had kids! In the meantime, the dollar has dropped like an anchor and now I'm going to save up and when it is "time" go on a real shopping spree, that includes some well tailored suits/shirts from England.

kyboots · May 23, 2011

It is terrible to dig up old threads but I just picked up a great suit last week at Suit Supply. They are out of Amsterdam but they are opening a store soon in New York. WSJ had a recent article that tipped me off about them where they had testers evaluate several places and the red label suit at Suit Supply ( 399 Euros ) ( around $600 plus if you do the paperwork get !0% of this back as VAT taxes ) equaled the $3600 line Armani. Anyway it is quite impressive, and beautiful work. You can take the same amount of money and get a vacation too while you do the fittings.I would suggest watching for the NYC store to open. ----- John

Tomasso · May 23, 2011

kyboots said:
It is terrible to dig up old threads but I just picked up a great suit last week at Suit Supply.

Is Suit Supply MTM/Custom?

kyboots · May 25, 2011

Tomasso said:
Is Suit Supply MTM/Custom?

Yes they are. I don't know where they are made ? Europe or most likely Mainland China, but they offered this. I bought one off the rack and will have the coat and the pants altered here in Louisville. You should be able to still find the article in the WSJ. I just read it around three weeks ago and picked up the suit last Thursday in Amsterdam. I would have had it altered there but flew back this weekend. They hem the pants immediately in the store, but they needed 72 hours to tuck in the jacket. They were new to me, but the newspaper article really did it, and I am very pleased with the quality of their top line. Cannot beat the price, check it out.I was very surprised and the quality of this dark navy wool suit is wonderful. Should look great in my engineers!---- John

Salieri · May 28, 2011

I've never had anything from them but I know people who have: Have you considered http://www.tweed-jacket.com/

Their website is vageuly dreadful and at first glance it looks like they only do tweeds but their catalogue of cloths and styles grows all the time.

kyboots · Jun 10, 2011

I have not had anything from them. They look mainly like equestrian based, and if that means anything like my daughter's last riding suit, it cost more than my first car! Ouch!! That is why I really liked Suit Supply.--John

GBR · Jun 13, 2011

Q Money said:
Also, has anybody purchased a suit from the Hemrajani brothers of Hong Kong through www.mytailor.com ? Andy from "askandyaboutclothes" loves them, and they appear to charge about $1500 for a full custom measured suit. I'm tempted to try them, but would like to hear input (both negative and positive) from those who have had a suit made with them.

Thanks for your guidance!

I doubt "Andy" purchased it - look at the disclaimer at the bottom of his posts. He always waxes lyrical about things and I have long felt his objectivity is questionable because of the merchandise which is 'placed' with him for favourable review.

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