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WouLD YoU alter a CLASSiC Leather Jacket?

johnnyjohnny

Practically Family
Messages
633
Location
lake balboa
just like to get the opinions of some astute FedoraLoungers...

i bought a size 50 (stock size) vanson mercury jacket on ebay...surprisingly the large size is almost a perfect fit chest/shoulders at 26 1/2"" armpit to armpit, but the waist is too big at 46" all around...this jacket does NoT have the little leather straps on the side to adjust, and i think putting those on this jacket would be like doing a chevy engine swap on an 80s jag...better performance but, it's bLasphemic

so i searched out an excellent tailor in LaLaLand here, and am considering having the side seam pulled in 2" on each side (moving the back panel over the side panel along the seam should not create any new holes, etc)...

the jacket now has a 7" drop from a 53" chest to a 46" waist...i have a 10" drop from a 44.5" chest to a 34" waist...

SuBmiTTed for your approval then: Should someone do this type of alteration to have a jacket fit better, or is this defacing a classic jacket in the scheme of things, and just enjoy it the way it was built?

thanks for any input
 

Rufus

Practically Family
Messages
518
Location
London
JJ, I've certainly altered jackets in the past.
Whether decorating them, or altering for size, it's part of a jacket's life.

It's clothing, make it usable. It'd be sad to have it sitting unused down to bad sizing.

I'm sure some purists will be horrified, but I've bought all jackets that've been altered or repaired by previous owners, and I love these changes, gives them character.

Hope you get your jacket to fit!

I bought a Buzz Rickson MC jacket last year, and had a halfbelt and side adjusters added as it was to boxy. Did the trick!

:) rufus
 

Mr. 'H'

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,110
Location
Dublin, Ireland, Ireland
I personally think you should go ahead and alter it.

I mean you will not be comfortable in it if it is too big on the waist.

Also, in the Golden Era, there were plenty of tanners and tailors and people would have not hesitated to have an article tailored to their body shape.

I also reckon that as you own the jacket already and like it, why not go the final mile and get the work done?

Any pictures?
 

johnnyjohnny

Practically Family
Messages
633
Location
lake balboa
exit poLLs coming in...

thanks for some feedback...guess i'm sort of a purist...or in other words, anal...

i know i had an inexpensive anj-3 (g-2) where i added snaps to the collar, liking that a-2 look...but somehow after doing that i just didn't want to wear it anymore...so i don't know that i'd add features, but size altering sounds like the right way to go...sooo, anyone know an excellent grade leather tailor in the LaLaLand area? i'd love to send it to scotland and aero as i know they'd do a good job, but money and time are a consideration

thanks for the inpuT
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,737
Location
London, UK
If it was a very rare, vintage jacket which would have its value decimated by alteration, I'd avoid it.... otherwise, go for it. I see no real difference, to be honest between that and, say, taking a vintage demob suit and having the sleeves shortened, the wait taken out, or the legs taken up to acquire a better fit forf the wearer. As has already been said, why let the jacket sit unaltered and unused? And, if period accuracy is what you're worried about, Mr H makes a significant point when he says folks back in the day would regularly have stuff altered for a better fit....
 

Rufus

Practically Family
Messages
518
Location
London
Hi JJ, I got Aero to alter and repair a number of jackets, and they did a great job.

I know it's difficult to get past the feeling that you're 'ruining' a relic, but ultimately unless it's just for display (Obviously I'd never alter a used WW2 crew A2 etc) it has to be used.

I think it's a great shame so much vintage is treated like holy relics, enjoy them! It's what they are for.

:) Ruf
 

Obob

New in Town
Messages
39
Location
N/A
Cost Question

In general, so that I'm not prying into anyone's business too much, how much does getting something like this, done?

Obob
 

johnnyjohnny

Practically Family
Messages
633
Location
lake balboa
i hear the druMs...Do iT...Do iT...

this forum seems for it...had a warning on vintageleatherjacket.org that once someone gets into the jacket, something will end up not being right...always interesting the different takes on things...

as for how much it costs...i would just have the side seam on each side un-threaded up to under the arm, then the back panel moved an inch in over the side panel...from my understanding of prices, and i know they aren't cheap to do a good job, i'd be looking at $200 if i wanted it done as well as could be...probably that's what aero would charge from a brief discussion i had with mark noyes (great guy) on some other type of alteration

it's not like it wouldn't get worn, i do love this jacket...very much like a luftwaffe ww2 jacket...here are some pix front and back:
http://vansonleathers.com/images/jackets/merc-front.jpg
http://vansonleathers.com/images/jackets/merc-back.jpg

only problem is the real jacket, stock size, isn't really as trim and fitted as the ad pix...more like an aero highwayman...which (to be honest) itself isn't as trim as the ad pix on their website (comparing to actual shots of the highwayman on ebay)...no knock on either brand, i think all classic collared motorcycle jackets have more of a boxy structure...even with an 8" drop in size from chest to waist it still looks like a box coming down...

and thus it probably looks not too far off than it should on me, i was just hoping for something more fitted...so i definitely will wear it...i love it and was really surprised that a size 50 would fit my 44.5" chest...the shoulders on these are only 19" so it really doesn't look wrongly oversize...just comfortable...

do love hearing the pros and cons...it's more than me and this particular jacket...i love design and getting at what is the essence of design, and at what point are you just screwing with something (again, back to that chevy in the old jag metaphor...or, gaSP, putting a quartz movement in an auto rolex...many people did that back in the day...)

will keep reading...and either way, wearing the vanson ;)
 

Longshanks

New in Town
Messages
39
Location
New York, NY
Unintended consequences

I would agree that if it's ever going to be in a museum, you shouldn't do subsequent generations a disservice by changing the jacket.

However, I would also argue against messing around with how the jacket came out of the factory on the theory that there are always consequences that nobody could foresee--some of them may be enough to say "d'oh...I shouldn't have done xyz"

2 cents worth.
 

Rufus

Practically Family
Messages
518
Location
London
I think Aero charged me £50 for the alterations, but for you US citizens the killer will be postage..

Re - Not altering, ideally you wouldn't have to alter a jacket (as it came out of the factory), but the facts of life are we are all different sizes, and generic sizing doesn't fit everyone.

I've been really disappointed in the past to receive clothes I've bought on the internet only to find they too baggy, or boxy (Being thin can be just as problematic as being overweight, manufacturers make the assumption most people are...well fed.)

So invariably I alter stuff, so that I can get use out of it, and because I can't find anything similar in the shops.

If you think you'll get a lot of wear out of it... Do it!! There's nothing worse than wearing gear you feel uncomfortable in.

:)
 

johnnyjohnny

Practically Family
Messages
633
Location
lake balboa
...aNd the wiNNeR is ALTERiNG (NoTTTTTT)

gotta thank everyone for their input...all vaLid points of view...

in the end i've decided not to alter my size 50 factory vanson mercury...

at first i just thought it was a bit too boxy and even altering wouldn't change my point of view...

then i looked at the seams that would have to be unsewn, and didn't believe it could really be sewn back up to be 'original' looking...

so, i tried it on one last time before putting it in the "to be on ebay" closet, and realized it still looked cool, if making me look a little cobra-like with the flared lats and back puffing out...

i think i'll enjoy putting this fine jacket on once in awhile, and see if some use can make it lay and conform to my body (the former owner was 6'1" and 230, about 40 more pounds than i)

i hate tearing something up to make it 'un' original...tho i'm tempted to do it if it can really be done to original standards...but in the end i think i'll just enjoy this, and respect the next owner (if there is one) and leave this baby original

for anyone interested, it has virtually no wear, 26" armpit to armpit, 25 1/4" long, and really nice...will let it go for the $300 i got it off ebay...

otherwise, i'll just enjoy it now and then, alternating with my other 30 leather jackets (no, i don't have a problem)

thanks aLL
 

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