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Sewing Lessons & FAQ

laurakitty

Familiar Face
Messages
59
Location
Brooklyn, NY
MarieAnne said:
I have successfully created a set of slopers for myself and I am designing a dress. Actually I'm using an existing pattern for reference. Rather than grading/resizing, I thought I'd try my hand at using these slopers. So I'm almost done and it's going well. I just thought I'd ask if there's anything I should do or check before I make the muslin. Any useful tips? I used several websites but I'm not sure I'm allowed to post them.... must ask a bartender

I would love to know what sites you used, if you can post them (or pm me).
 

Elaina

One Too Many
Here's one for you ladies.

My son wants us to sort of have matching bowling shirts (He wants his green with black trim, mine black with green). I do have a pattern for these, but they're men's and boy's sizes. His isn't a problem, since he likes them boxy. Mine is a little more strange.

They aren't my favorite kind of shirt, I admit. I have a few odd questions on that. Did women even wear them? Would it be better to taper the men's pattern in, use a modern women's pattern styled more to how I like my shirts to fit, and adapt it to the men's? Do I need to rent Grease or Grease 2 (and did I even see the women wearing them there) to get an idea on this?

Strange I know. I have no idea what brought this up, but he asked and I feel compelled to oblige.
 

MarieAnne

Practically Family
Messages
555
Location
Ontario
I checked and the sites are ok. I used http://www.leenas.com/ to make my slopers. And then I am using http://www.vintagesewing.info/ for the pattern design. The sloper section in pattern design on the vintage sewing info website is a little harder. The measurements are harder to take because you have to measure the front half and back half seperately. That's why I use Leena's to make the slopers.
 

SayCici

Practically Family
Messages
813
Location
Virginia
3782514715_d6ca5b4e95.jpg


So I don't plan on wearing this dress to death or anything, but I was wondering if there was a way to secure some of its seams that have started pulling so I don't feel like a horrible person when I do decide to wear it? It's like 60 years ago someone got a little big in their hips but didn't want to stop wearing this dress (can you blame them?):

august2009027.jpg


I don't mean that little gap up top, I'll fix that, but you can sorta see the areas where it looks like the thread has cut through the silk.
 

Elaina

One Too Many
Sorry for the delay Cici. I looked for this in an old book and didn't like the results, so I had to find a modern sewing book for it. I tested it on some scrap vintage silk so I did it on 3" seams, and pulled to stretch them out to appear like your garment, and I liked the result better.

What it said to do was take fusible interfacing meant for silk, and iron it like a patch (just to cover the seams, mind) over the stressed area. Then restitch the seams on the original seam line.

I used Stitch Witchery on my scrap, pressing it with a cloth, since I'm lazy and did not want to mess with cutting into some other stuff I had. It worked fine and the seams looked as good as they do when the garment is made.
 

SayCici

Practically Family
Messages
813
Location
Virginia
Elaina said:
Sorry for the delay Cici. I looked for this in an old book and didn't like the results, so I had to find a modern sewing book for it. I tested it on some scrap vintage silk so I did it on 3" seams, and pulled to stretch them out to appear like your garment, and I liked the result better.

What it said to do was take fusible interfacing meant for silk, and iron it like a patch (just to cover the seams, mind) over the stressed area. Then restitch the seams on the original seam line.

I used Stitch Witchery on my scrap, pressing it with a cloth, since I'm lazy and did not want to mess with cutting into some other stuff I had. It worked fine and the seams looked as good as they do when the garment is made.
Elaina, thank you so much! I'm just a little unsure of exactly where to place the interfacing, but this sounds perfect!
 

Lady Day

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
9,087
Location
Crummy town, USA
You might want to use an interfacing that is not fusible, or a cotton and tack it over the worn seams. The fusible will effect the drape, will it not? Well, any type of stabilizing fabric will :) Im just leery about using an adhesive on vintage silk. :eek:

LD
 

SayCici

Practically Family
Messages
813
Location
Virginia
Lady Day said:
You might want to use an interfacing that is not fusible, or a cotton and tack it over the worn seams. The fusible will effect the drape, will it not? Well, any type of stabilizing fabric will :) Im just leery about using an adhesive on vintage silk. :eek:

LD
No, that's understandable! But I don't know how to do that either. :p
 

Elaina

One Too Many
Somewhat, Lady Day, but if it's already damaged, then the drape is already affected, and where this seems to be on her dress, I'm not sure it will affect it THAT much, you know? The method I have in a vintage book is probably more like what you would do, but it is also more advanced then this one and requires a lot more time and will affect the size, since it says to redo the seams with a scant 1/4" seams, and to let out unaffected side seams as much as possible, in effect remaking the dress, and it doesn't really fix the cutting of the silk. While I do get you on the adhesives on silk, I also read Cici was still new and was trying to find a way for her to be able to fix it in the easiest and most successful way, since a repair like that can get frustrating very quickly.

Cici, it is like applying bias tape in the method. Since it is just to the seam and just enough to cover the damage to repair it. In all honesty, you are going to take a small amount in from the damage to cover it (like millimeters with this method), and the interfacing is going to strengthen the damage and cause it to stabilize the area. Of course, you need to test an inconspicuous area first with whatever you do, even if you have to cut a swatch from a facing or redo the hem, as well, but you knew that I'm sure.
 

SayCici

Practically Family
Messages
813
Location
Virginia
My eyes are not cooperating today, does this fabric have a nap or no?
15644-11.jpg

You can also see it here, mine is actually blue with red bows. Thank you!
 

Lady Day

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
9,087
Location
Crummy town, USA
That tern always confused me, so I looked it up.

Definition: A fabric with nap is one what usually has a pile and will look different shades from different angles. Velvet and velour fabric are prime examples of fabric with nap.
When cutting out fabric the with nap and the without nap directions are usually different to allow all of the with nap pattern pieces to lie in the same direction.
Fabric with a one way design will also use the with nap cutting layout.
So Id say...no :)

LD
 

Elaina

One Too Many
For your own definition Cici, a nap is the pile in fabrics like velvet and corduroy and if cut in different directions will look different colors(this one took me years to figure). It's sometimes included as a lump one way designs, but they're kind of different things.

To your question, no it's not a one way design, at least it doesn't look like it to me. What I did to determine this was look at the bows and noticed they are all different directions: some are upside down, some face left and right and some are right side up. Then I looked at the print. It looks the same from the vertical and horizontal (although I'd wager it looks the same on the bias as well), therefore I concluded it's not needed for the nap layout on your pattern.
 

SayCici

Practically Family
Messages
813
Location
Virginia
Thank you both! I always thought it referred both to fabrics like velvet and to things with a one or even two way design that would need to have a different cutting arrangement, but now I know!

That's what I thought at first, but after pinning down three pieces I guess my eyes got tired because I was like "grr, what am I looking at?" and second-guessed myself. The red areas began to look like diamonds and I thought they looked squatter one way than the other. Thanks again! I didn't want to re-do it. :eek:
 

cailinbeag

Familiar Face
Messages
63
Location
Houston, TX
I didn't know where else to post this...

I'm seriously considering making this dress for my wedding in October. However, I'll have to grade it four sizes up, plus add length in the body because I'm 5'10". Has anyone made this dress? I'm hoping to get an idea of the actual pattern pieces and construction to see what I'm dealing with before I decide for sure. Thanks!
 

Small Town Girl

One of the Regulars
Messages
123
Location
The Olde Dominion
Okay, ladies, I've got a few questions.

First: My sister wants me to make her some burp clothes. Do any of you have any experience with making these and do you have any fabric suggestions or tips that you'd be willing to share? I'm looking for something in a soft, preferably cotton, fabric.

Second: My brother wants me to make him a Han Solo Costume. I'm thinking ESB here. Again, I'm looking for fabric ideas. I was thinking along the lines of a twill, as the fabrics do not look like they have a super amount of stretch, but perhaps a jersey type of knit would be better. Also, with the pants I'm guessing that they are more of a tapered cut, but as dear Captain Solo prefers to tuck the lower part of his pants into his boots, I'm finding it a little difficult to figure out. Yeah, that's about as clear as mud. So I'm pretty much asking about fabric ideas for the shirt, and pants--as well as the cut of the pants. So if any of you have ideas or suggestions, I would really appreciate it! Regardless, thanks for taking the time to read this post!
 

Small Town Girl

One of the Regulars
Messages
123
Location
The Olde Dominion
cailinbeag said:
I didn't know where else to post this...

I'm seriously considering making this dress for my wedding in October. However, I'll have to grade it four sizes up, plus add length in the body because I'm 5'10". Has anyone made this dress? I'm hoping to get an idea of the actual pattern pieces and construction to see what I'm dealing with before I decide for sure. Thanks!

I haven't made it, but that will be beautiful! If you do make it will you please post pictures?
 

JupitersDarling

One of the Regulars
Messages
221
Location
South Carolina
For the Han Solo costume, I'd pick fabirs easy to launder & sew. If you are newish to sewing, you may prefer to sew with wovens, rather than knits, which can be a little more complicated/different.

If it were me: for the shirt- cotton or linen, though it looks like stretch knit couldn't hurt.
Vest: canvas or twill
pants: twill, maybe even a stretch twill (not so much stretch as a knit but enough to give a little boost in elasticity)

Oh, and pant shape... I find it hard to see Han wearing tapered pants (let alone the empire putting their recruits in tapered pants- and Han's pants are a leftover from his days at the imperial academy), so I'd say prob. straight or skinny cut. But I've never seen him out of his boots, so what do I know? Sounds like you are not going for screen accuracy, so feel free to interpret as you like/whatever's easiest. LOL.
 

Small Town Girl

One of the Regulars
Messages
123
Location
The Olde Dominion
Yeah, I originally thought more of a straightleg, but after looking at some of the costume replications online, I thought more of a tapered thing, because some of the pants looked so bunchy! Goodness knows I've been wearing my poor sister out with this question and throwing my ideas around in such a way as to drive us both crazy! Thanks for your help, JupitersDarling!
 

Elaina

One Too Many
You've got a few ways to make the burp cloths. Do them like cloth napkins, pocket squares or narrow hem. Googling tutorials on these will show you how to do them, but it'll be in essence a flat hem with mitered corners, a rolled hem or a very small hem. How you do it is up to you, and ease of what you want to do. Fabric I'd go with a super soft muslin since it's easy to find, close to cloth diaper fabric and cheaper then getting a special fabric for it. Trim with cotton ric rac, bias tape, etc. for the designer look. You can also use any soft fabric in a natural fiber, tho, like bamboo, and you're not stuck with just cottons. Bamboo is also available in colors muslin isn't, but the type of muslin is about $6/yd for 60 in. at my Hancocks, and the bamboo is about $7 for the same width.

As to Han Solo, suiting and moleskin for the pants/vest works well, wears like iron and is easy to work with. Twill will work too, but it's a bit heavier then the other two, and doesn't drape quite the same as his costume would. The shirt is slightly stretched and a heavy polyester, cotton, slight stretch fabric would be good there (just make the seams zig zagged) and this pattern is very close to it:

s5092.jpg


Make sure it's a little small on him, not skintight, and change the sleeves to end about the wrist bone. Pants I'd make in a straight style not skinny, because of the tucking and the way he stands in pics.
 

Lady Day

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
9,087
Location
Crummy town, USA
Alright ladies, a little poll.

IMG_1480.jpg


I finished the blouse (altered from a dress bodice) using the vintage fabric I just received, but Im at a loss as to which kinds of buttons to use.

Here are my top 3:

IMG_1481.jpg


IMG_1482.jpg


IMG_1483.jpg


Im leaning toward #2 because I LOVE those buttons. #1 is a great classic choice, and #3 is very feminine (IMO).

Advice?

LD
 

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