Reproducing Trousers, Questions

Baron Kurtz · Jan 30, 2006

Another question ...

... about the trousers.

What cuff size did the pattern give on the trousers you finished?

bk

shindeco · Jan 30, 2006

Baron Kurtz said:
... about the trousers.

What cuff size did the pattern give on the trousers you finished?

bk

The cuff circumference is 22 inches and the depth is about 1.75 inches but I have fairly short legs (31 inch inseam). If you have long legs, I'd add several inches; especially if you want a deep cuff.

Baron Kurtz · Jan 31, 2006

shindeco said:
The cuff circumference is 22 inches and the depth is about 1.75 inches but I have fairly short legs (31 inch inseam). If you have long legs, I'd add several inches; especially if you want a deep cuff.

'Twas the circumference measurement i was after. 22" sounds good in my book. I believe that will almost cover my teeny tiny feet.

Thanks for the info on the cuff size. 1.75" is probably a little small, i'll add some length. Actually i probably won't need to, my legs are so short (even shorter than yours).

And i have a bubble butt. I'll fill those out nicely, i think.

bk

shindeco · Jan 31, 2006

Baron Kurtz said:
Actually i probably won't need to, my legs are so short (even shorter than yours).

And i have a bubble butt. I'll fill those out nicely, i think.

bk

Remember that the leg length will be in proportion to the waist size.

I have a fairly "bubbly" backside, too (as the personal ads say "I've been told...") and they're baggy on me. Makes you wonder what the Germans were shaped like!

scotrace · Feb 14, 2006

Final Version

Shindeco, did you get those trousers into a final draft version? how'd it go?

shindeco · Feb 14, 2006

Had to wait for a couple of opinions: husband's (who went to fashion college and specialized in design and tailoring) and younger sister's (degree in clothing and textiles -- design and historic costume). NOTE: It's very difficult to adjust the seat of a pair of trousers when you're wearing them!

Final consensus:

-Darts need to moved nearer the centre seam.

-Scoop of the crotch needs to be deepend.

Now I have to get busy and alter them. (Definitely need to add pockets, too. I think just side seam pockets for the front. patch pockets would be easiest on the back but I don't think they're very period (I hate doing welts). Anyone have feedback on rear pockets?

P.S. I'm thinking of doing a pair in a light colour/weight for summer but I think I might do a Hollywood waist instead of a waistband. Not sure about the fabric yet. Suggestions are always welcome...

scotrace · Feb 15, 2006

Well...

I suggest that I would like to buy a pattern, if you get them done, especially with that hollywood waist. I really don't have the skills to build them as you (remarkably) have.

Signed,

Sammy Suckup

scotrace · Mar 2, 2006

Now I get it

Now I see - there's a file to download with instructions (sorry Imadolt). But it's a Windows Executable file (.exe) the single kind of file I cannot use in any way.

Can someone please copy/paste the instructions? I hate to ask but otherwise I'm scrod and I'd really like a shot at making these.

scotrace@mac.com

Mrs. Foss · Mar 2, 2006

Lutterloh Patterns

The Lutterloh pattern company is still around. Here's a basic rundown on their system. It hasn't changed at all since its inception.

http://www.dressmaking.co.nz/online_demo.htm

I have 2 of their pattern books, one from the 50's and one from the 40's. No 30's books yet, unfortunately. There used to be quite a few home pattern drafting systems back in the good old days, but I think Lutterloh was amoung the more user friendly. I don't know of any others that are still around.

One thing to keep in mind is that these patterns don't include seam allowances. You have to add them in yourself when you cut out the pattern.

Good Luck!

~Mrs. Foss

The real Henry · Mar 2, 2006

The site is great! And especially their museum-section! They just need to fix the forum. So if anyone needs help, just ask me!

Baron Kurtz · Mar 2, 2006

Mrs. Foss said:
The Lutterloh pattern company is still around. Here's a basic rundown on their system. It hasn't changed at all since its inception.

http://www.dressmaking.co.nz/online_demo.htm

I have 2 of their pattern books, one from the 50's and one from the 40's. No 30's books yet, unfortunately. There used to be quite a few home pattern drafting systems back in the good old days, but I think Lutterloh was amoung the more user friendly. I don't know of any others that are still around.

One thing to keep in mind is that these patterns don't include seam allowances. You have to add them in yourself when you cut out the pattern.

Good Luck!

~Mrs. Foss

Do they have 40s/50s men's patterns?

bk

scotrace · Mar 2, 2006

Got the file I need. It's not .exe at all, it's a zip file.

Sneaky Germans.

Baron Kurtz · Mar 2, 2006

scotrace said:
Got the file I need. It's not .exe at all, it's a zip file.

Sneaky Germans.

Yeah, i had some trouble getting it onto my HD also.

bk

scotrace · Mar 10, 2006

I'm Thick, thick I say!

I have the mini pattern printed in the correct size. I have the mini ruler. Big piece of paper, etc.
What I don't understand is how the mini ruler and my full sized tape come together. Are they pinned together at the same (my waist) measurement? I stand and look and look at all this and can't see the purpose of the mini ruler. Measuring out 33cm from the center is 33cm - how is the pattern going to be in my size if 33cm (for instance) is always going to give me the same size pattern?

Dense and thick!

Baron? Any luck?

BellyTank · Mar 10, 2006

Just caught this one- jeez- trust a Kiwi to do something useful.

If you have no waistband- (pockets- hmmm...)darting where necessary should be relatively easy and trouble-free. I had a really loose and shapeless pair of heavy cotton drill '40s Swedish military fatigues with about a 14" rise (!)and no waistband, which I successfully "tailored"/fought into some semblance of fit by sewing darts down from about the centre of each cheek- trial fitting to find the depth of dart and termination point.I also took the side seams in at an angle from about the point of the hip bone toward the top- - which helped. Gotta be careful when messing with leg seams- they turn.
Don't know if that's cheating but there was a vast surplus of fabric from the hips up. The look is good if the pants fit above the arse-apex and then hang/drape off this point.

My (late) Mom (bless her socks of cotton)was an avid and busy seamstress and I couldn't help but do more than thread her needles- I've made two pair of trou in my short life (under her supervision)which were 'OK'. My Wife just bought a nice machine and I'm keen to burn the midnight sewing machine oil once again (rubbing hands with glee- not ghee)

Try messing with an old/cheap pair of military surplus pants in an enormous size- see what you can do... a useful exercise and no harm done.

B
T

shindeco · Mar 10, 2006

scotrace said:
I have the mini pattern printed in the correct size. I have the mini ruler. Big piece of paper, etc.
What I don't understand is how the mini ruler and my full sized tape come together. Are they pinned together at the same (my waist) measurement? I stand and look and look at all this and can't see the purpose of the mini ruler. Measuring out 33cm from the center is 33cm - how is the pattern going to be in my size if 33cm (for instance) is always going to give me the same size pattern?

Dense and thick!

Baron? Any luck?

Attach the end of the mini ruler to the 9 cm mark on your regular ruler and stick a pin through the dot that corresponds to your waist measurement. The pin then goes through the cross in the middle of the pattern. On the edge of the pattern there are dots with numbers beside them. Line up the ruler through the dot and measure out the number of centimetres that corresponds to the number given and make a mark on your paper.

The trick is in the attachment of the mini ruler to the regular ruler and measuring from the given point on the mini ruler. This gives the variation necessary to scale the pattern.

Does that make sense? Let me know if it needs more clarification.

I found that the scoop on the crotch needed more calculation. I'm a bit busy right now but I'll try to post more details on fixing that in the next couple of days.

Murray

scotrace · Mar 10, 2006

BellyTank said:
Just caught this one- jeez- trust a Kiwi to do something useful.

'Bout time you show up for this party...

S

scotrace · Mar 11, 2006

shindeco said:
Attach the end of the mini ruler to the 9 cm mark...

Murray

This is VERY helpful, thanks. Now I have the rulers matched up properly...

And now I have a pattern!

:whistling

Mrs. Foss · Mar 14, 2006

40's and 50's Lutterloh

Sorry it took me so long to reply, I was out of town for a bit. Both books have a small sprinkling of men's patterns. I'll see if I can scan a few for you fellows. I am entirely ignorant of German copyright law, so I hope the are in the public domain.

Are you gentleman most interested in trousers patterns?

~Mrs. Foss

Baron Kurtz · Mar 14, 2006

Mrs. Foss said:
Are you gentleman most interested in trousers patterns?

~Mrs. Foss

Anything you've got would be appreciated. Good men's patterns are thin on the ground.

bk

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