Convert a Classic?

• Apr 26, 2010

• #1

F

Fu Manchu

One of the Regulars

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Ivory Tower, CT

Hello all,

A while ago, I was lucky enough to snag a badly posted sack suit on eBay. It's tagged "The Glasgow Tailor" and has a date of October 24, 1929 on its inside label. No union tag. The suit itself is a three piece, undarted, notch-lapeled navy sack suit. It's skeleton lined with no vent. The pants are not pleated and have one inch cuffs. Post dry cleaning and sleeve alterations, it's an unassuming little number that's perfect for spring or fall. My question:

Should I have the lapel re-ironed to make the suit a two roll three button jacket? The gorge is rather high, so the vest does not show. Considering the vaunted ivory tower where I work/study, would this alteration be a fitting nod to J Press and Brooks Brothers or just a desecration?

Pics to follow after I reunite the jacket with its waistcoat and trousers.

DMG

 

• Apr 26, 2010

• #2

Atterbury Dodd

One Too Many

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I would not make any serious changes on a piece of clothing that old.

 

• Apr 26, 2010

• #3

F

Fu Manchu

One of the Regulars

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113

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Ivory Tower, CT

Fair Enough

Fair enough. I'm sorry - reading my post again, I realize that I was unclear. The jacket has three buttons and is presently structured so that it is possible to button the top one. I would just have a dry cleaner steam the lapels so that it would roll a bit more, showing more vest. I guess my question is - should I retain the sack as it was originally made or alter it slightly to reflect a style that became popular slightly later?

Perhaps all will be clearer with pictures.

 

• Apr 26, 2010

• #4

Atterbury Dodd

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Aha, I see. Pictures would be helpful.

 

• Apr 26, 2010

• #5

Qirrel

Practically Family

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The suburbs of Oslo, Norway

Trying to alter the lapel roll will often result in an awkward looking collar. The jacket probably wasn't constructed to allow for a long lapel roll. I'd really love to see some pictures though.

 

• Apr 26, 2010

• #6

F

Fu Manchu

One of the Regulars

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113

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Ivory Tower, CT

Pictures

Hi again,

A few notes. I had my tailor finish my sleeves to show only 1/4 inch of cuff. I figure that it's a traditional suit and should be tailored conservatively. No break on the pants, either.

FYI: I'm wearing a Charles Tyrwhitt (modern) french cuffed shirt, 1940's Abercrombie and Fitch wool knit tie, and a pair of modern basket-weave captoe shoes. It's rainy here and the suit is a dark, dark blue, so everything is hard to see. Sorry. If you're having problems seeing the relevant details, I'll upload another picture tomorrow.

Bad lighting notwithstanding, I think you can see my point. The gorge on the suit is so high that it completely conceals my vest. Sad, right?

DMG

 

• Apr 26, 2010

• #7

Qirrel

Practically Family

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590

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The suburbs of Oslo, Norway

Wonderful suit. If it really bothers you that much not to see your vest, id suggest you have a. tailor remove the hard press on the lapel, and instead give it a soft roll all the way from the top of the lapel. I have done such to many coats before and it works well most of the time. Pressing it hard to the second button will likely cause the lapel/collar to behave strangely.

 

• Apr 26, 2010

• #8

MrBern

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I agree, talk to a good dry cleaner & ask them if they can steam out the lapel & soften to to a 3roll2. And take some before & after pix.

 

• Apr 27, 2010

• #9

M

Mr. Rover

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I think it looks great as it is...it seems to fit flawlessly. If you'd like a softer roll, then you can just flip it over and steam out the crease with a steam iron and a handkerchief (to avoid creating that burnished shine).
The vest isn't necessarily there to show off- it's really there to keep your stomach and chest warmer.
There's nothing worse than the arse who is standing there in his first three-piece suit with his hands in his pockets, holding open the jacket to show off how cool he is in his new three piece suit. :eusa_doh:
I love three-roll-two's, but, personally, I also like the look of a proper three-button suit with a soft roll.