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  1. M

    Suit Fabrics

    As great as Lesser is -- and I think it is the best cloth being made today -- a couple of years ago, someone who worked there gave me a stack of 3x3" swatches from the '40s - '60s that were unbelievable. I really did not understand what Matt Deckard was talking about re: vintage fabrics until...
  2. M

    Californians Please check in!

    Santa Cruz. But I don't live there any more. :(
  3. M

    Roll of the lapel?

    There should be a press line that extends from collar down through about the top quarter of the lapel. Below that is the roll. Basically, you want to sharpen that press line, but not continue it. Unfurl the lapel below that line and lay if flat and press the UNDERSIDE (using a press cloth, as...
  4. M

    Extended Shoulders

    An extended shoulder is one that extends past your natural shoulderline. It's hard to define precisely because the shoulder is not an angle but a curve. At what point does the shoulder start to "extend" exactly? You could get measured by two different tailors, and one will say your...
  5. M

    Dapper in '34

  6. M

    1930s Mens how-to-dress book recently sold on ebay

    I have this book. I don't recall what I paid for it, but not that much!
  7. M

    Ladies suits

    I. Magnin, San Francisco. Those were the days. :)
  8. M

    Double-breasted suit buttons

    I think a DB needs two lapel buttonholes, SB -- whether peak or notch -- should have only one. Any fewer for either is a modernist, minimalist look.
  9. M

    Double-breasted suit buttons

    It's not that the extra buttons were added later. The original DBs buttoned all the way up. To "relax" the coat and make it cooler (temp-wise, not fashion-wise) and less military, the closure point and crossover were lowered, but the buttons kept for visual interest.
  10. M

    Scotch 101

    Some book, I forgot which one, describes how after the election, Churchill went to see the king. When he came out of the place, he got into a big black chauffer-driven Rolls Royce and was whisked away. Just as he left, Atlee puttered up in this little economy car smaller than the Rolls' trunk...
  11. M

    Scotch 101

    No, not during the war. Manchester wrote it in the context of the '30s. Maybe after the war he switched.
  12. M

    Scotch 101

    According to Manchester (and others) Churchill drank Red. At Chartwell, they have a little display of some of his indulgences, supposedly actually his stuff. Certainly, it was all old. I don't remember everything, but I remember a bottle of JW Red, a bottle of Hine Antique (both empty), an...
  13. M

    Sleeve Cap Puckering

    Yep, that's it, if indeed incorrect pitch is the source of the problem. However, the horizontal ripple on that checked coat is not caused by incorrect pitch. The shoulders on that coat are too narrow. Incorrect pitch is most likely to show up in the front or back of the sleeve. If you...
  14. M

    Sleeve Cap Puckering

    It's brown:
  15. M

    Sleeve Cap Puckering

    It's not hard, it's just a PitA. You have to take the sleeve completely out and reset it. Tailors don't like do-overs. I like that brown chalk stripe. :rolleyes:
  16. M

    What's the name of the style of slacks?

    An older name for the style is "White ducks," a corruption of doek, which is an older Dutch word for canvas. They were not flannel, though, but canvas twill, and not dead white but sort of cream or eggshell.
  17. M

    'Fishtail' waist

    On Savile Row, these are called "brace tops." Every trouser cutter learns this pattern. All the tailors in New York know how to do it too. Italians typically don't know how to make it and don't wear it.
  18. M

    They just don't compare

    Thanks, but iammatt is the best dressed man in cyberspace, IMO.
  19. M

    They just don't compare

    I don't like floor level peak on anyone. To me it looks too vintagey, in a bad way, costume, throwback, etc. Plus, it disrupts the harmony of the DB, which I think looks better when the only lines that bisect the coat on the horizontal are the pockets. The odd angles of the lapels and shirt...
  20. M

    They just don't compare

    Sure, but I wouldn't want a closetful of things like that. A solid blue DB is a dinner party staple, in addition to being a good business suit.

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