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  1. jlee562

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    Akubras are excellent rain hats. I used a Fed IV in the rain for a long time. If you want to keep with the fedora style, that's a good choice. Personally I prefer a wider brim for the rain, you might check out the campdraft... Or, you know, as the saying goes, go big or go home (not an Akubra).
  2. jlee562

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    Royal is Stetson's lowest fur felt quality grade, that a hat is softer than that is not particularly impressive. Moreover, I would imagine the salesperson is talking about the crushability of the hat, rather than the hand of the felt. I would be extremely surprised if a wool felt was finished...
  3. jlee562

    Modern custom vs Vintage

    Bob at BSHW has my FEPSA beaver/mink. It has a soft hand but it's a western body and has a very stiff brim. Interesting contrast, Bob thought it was very stiff as well. Will be interesting to see how it turns out as a finished hat. But as is, I probably would not say it was vintage-like. I'm...
  4. jlee562

    Dating Vintage Stetsons by Liner: A Field Guide

    Plastic liner tip means no earlier than mid-late 50's, probably closer to 60's. 3x hats are generally well regarded in these parts. Click through for the whole thread. At that time, 3x hats were upper-mid quality hats. Selv-edge is the brim treatment. I don't recall off hand if this is a true...
  5. jlee562

    Modern custom vs Vintage

    My understanding is that the machinery is largely the same. I do remember one iteration of Optimo's line utilized fur from wild trapped animals, the alternative presumably being farmed. This 1868 treatise on hat making and felting notes that the there is an optimal time of year to collect...
  6. jlee562

    The Hatco Outlet Store in Garland, TX

    Ah, actually, you're right about that. Disregard previous comment!
  7. jlee562

    The Hatco Outlet Store in Garland, TX

    AFAIK, for modern Strats, if it's a blocked in crease, it's Royal quality.
  8. jlee562

    Post New Hats Here!

    Scientific Hat Finishing also mentions using blocking cord tacked to the top of the block: https://archive.org/details/scientifichatfin00erma/page/78/mode/2up
  9. jlee562

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    Just to add a few more bits to what has already been said... In the grand taxonomy of hats, it gets reduced to stiff felts and soft felts. Derbies/bowlers/riding hats would fall under stiff felts, while other hats fall under soft felts. Obviously stiff hats were not soft and malleable. Under...
  10. jlee562

    What Hat Are You Wearing Today ?

    All quiet on the western front. Not much to post lately, mostly have been wearing my self-refurbed 7xCB. Being a thinner, lighter felt, it's good for bay area "summer." Now that the warm weather is actually here, I brought out my natural Panama OR, Meyer the Hatter special.
  11. jlee562

    White & Davis Catalog #20 Fall & Winter 1922-1923 Hats

    Interesting that the hats on the first page all have "beaver" appended to the model name, yet they are Real Nutria quality. Sure would be nice if one of those velour felts showed up in my size!
  12. jlee562

    Western, anyone?

    I've only seen one or two of those 4x buffalo hats in person. They're ok for what they are but you'd get more life out of a fur felt. I have a modern 6x BOP and 10x Cogburn (Resistol, but it's all the same factory) the latter I use mostly as a rain hat. It has held up pretty good. The brim did...
  13. jlee562

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    That wasn't how I read the OP which never specified the retailer they bought it from. @wearinghats yes, I understand you were provided incorrect information from the .com rep. But as they informed you, they are not Stetson as such. My point was that it's unrealistic to think a $130 hat sized...
  14. jlee562

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    Indeed, but the OP seems to have transposed "fur felt" into "website had said it was made from Beaver." This can be an object lesson/"if it walks like a duck." The hat in question is the Stetson Midtown, retail price $130.00, comes sized s/m/l/xl. The price should have been the first tip off...
  15. jlee562

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    This is the "before" screenshot? That doesn't say beaver anywhere. If it's sized s/m/l, it's not beaver. Most fur felt hats aren't even sized s/m/l. TBH, I don't think you have any recourse unless you work something out with the store. Chalk this one up to caveat emptor. There is no Stetson...
  16. jlee562

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    ...honestly kinda looks like a women's hat. If that's a men's hat, it is fairly well worn to have a brim with that much waviness in it.
  17. jlee562

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    If you spend some time actually browsing the threads in the lounge, you will gain some insight into the traditional markers we use for age. All beaver felts are much more common in modern hats. Many if not most of the vintage hats here are not 100% beaver. E.G. you are much more likely in...
  18. jlee562

    Sweatband Question

    The sweat is not 100% seated correctly. You don't need to fix it per se, but if it bothers you, exchange it. I don't think that's unreasonable in this case. If you pull the sweat down and look behind the liner, you will see the sweatband stitches. As long as those are intact, the hat is...
  19. jlee562

    Pure Beaver Hat Supply

    Would love to see a repro of the cream-ish color Stetson used
  20. jlee562

    Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

    Just sent an email inquiry! Think it's time to make more hats...

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