“An error does not become a mistake until you refuse to correct it.” ~ John F. Kennedy

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Superfluous, Feb 20, 2021.

  1. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt My Mail is Forwarded Here

    The custom jackets you bought in the 80s and 90s were probably more necessity goods than luxury goods. They were purpose built. The jackets we discuss here today are luxury goods.

    It's like comparing a Michelin Star dinner with a dinner at the local bistro. With the former, the presentation of the food is hugely important. At your bistro, not to that extend.

    I don't think the internet made us more detail focused. The internet did create a (global) market for non-fashionbrand luxury goods like the jackets we discuss here. Before the internet, Himel or FL would not have a viable business model because they could only sell locally (with local demand for luxury jackets being too small to run a business)

    Before the days of the internet we were also obsessed with details. But those details could not be found in your locally made jacket. They could be found in garments made by world wide operating (haute couture) businesses like Monsieur Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent or what have you.
  2. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

    I just responded but changed my mind; the thread will get clogged with irrelevancies (by me).
    ton312 likes this.
  3. Justhandguns

    Justhandguns Practically Family

    Exactly! This is exactly the crux. Do I care that my Bronson B-10 has uneven pockets? Yes, a bit, but I only paid USD60 for it. If this happens on the Real McCoy B10, I would certainly return it.

    Yes, small productions or independent craftsmen (best represented in Japanese, 職人, 匠人) seems to be both the selling point as well as the root of some (or many) of the complaints in our jacket world, particularly the one man operations. From what I've seen in this forum as well as the VLJ forum, John Chapman is, by far, the most consistent in making perfect jackets as an one man band based on the number of 'complaints' here. Which may also means that his products justify the prices that he is asking for. The main issue for small workshops is that they sometimes think they can't afford to 'reject' flaw products. But that should be taken into account of the costs as well, and trying to spin it into some like 'period correct' or 'deliberately uneven', these are not the excuses. Some have done it correctly, like Aero's apprentice jackets and John's test jackets. For those who are into shoes and boots, if you are ordering a custom pair from a premium maker, you don't expect to have unmatched hides on the two sides right? And finally, since some of these brands are actively reading our posts (and complaints) online, I do hope that they listen and improve.
  4. Blackadder

    Blackadder Call Me a Cab

    I understand to err is human. The point I am trying to make is own up to the mistake immediately and inform the customers asap not simply ship it out and wait for the customers to complain about it then pretends it is overlooked. How can the machinist overlook when he/she was clearly not sewing in a straight line not to mention those empty stitch holes when he/she ran out of thread or broke the thread and had to restart.
    Marc mndt, red devil and navetsea like this.
  5. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Running out of thread is really frustrating, especially when it’s the bobbin underneath and you don’t notice right away.
    There must be a way to go back using the same holes to correct this without having to re-make the whole thing...or am I wrong? It would be super-costly to throw out panels of leather just because of a few holes.
    My only experience is with my little home machine. Maybe the bigger commercial ones allow for a large spool of bobbin thread.
    navetsea likes this.
  6. Blackadder

    Blackadder Call Me a Cab

    Yes it happens and it is frustrating. All the more reason to notify the customers asap so they can make their informed decision and thereby possibly minimize the processing time.
    red devil likes this.
  7. Cyber Lip

    Cyber Lip Practically Family

    Yes, all rectification of an issue should be done 1st and privately with the maker. Personally, I'd be worried my results might be less than they'd otherwise be if I outed the person publicly first. Of course it shouldn't make a diff, but you never know how crappy and vindictive some people can be
    jeo likes this.
  8. navetsea

    navetsea I'll Lock Up

    East Java
    even pleather mall jacket don't have this kind of
    I read somewhere industrial sewing machine don't use bobbin, both sides fed from outside thread spools ( i don't know how that works) , tshirt sewing machine, chain stitch machine, and edge finisher don't use one too, maybe that's the practical reason why jeans are/ were sewn with it, but perhaps even one with bobbin if the person is doing these project enough time they probably can calculate how much he should spool the bobbin for one project, and make a habit to spool just enough again for every new project since making individual jacket they would change color of the thread too. I think one of my jacket have a stop and go moment on the front panel, but it just look like one or two last stitches have double thread and go on single thread again, really have to bring the jacket to my nose to see at least when sewn in tonal color thread.

    I almost wonder why leather is not sewn with tshirt/ underwear sewing machine since it can stretch along since it looks
    from the back and won't break stitches, but it has double needle and make double rows stitches on top may will look bad alone but when paired with french style seam it might look neat, but probably hard to repair when broken or need alterations.
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2021
    red devil likes this.
  9. Edward

    Edward Bartender

    London, UK
    To be fair, that can also cut both ways; I have seen on one or two occasions online a case where a customer pursued a bit of a vendetta against a company for not acquiescing to an unreasonable demand. But yeah, even from a purely selfish pov it makes sense to play nice with someone when you want the company to help you - banging the desk and threatening to badmouth them online (I've seen this in action in business) and then expecting them to help and be nice is a bit on the daft side!
    Jin431 and powerserge like this.

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