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1930's 4 button belted back suit jacket

GoldenEraFan

One Too Many
Messages
1,164
Location
Brooklyn, New York
absolutely... pattern first, then the recycling plant. ;)

I disagree, while this one has been retrofitted and not in the best of shape I see no reason why a piece of history like this should go to the recycling plant. It's still wearable and it's a rare pre-1939 belted back. Heck, if it weren't for all the slightly haggard vintage pre-1950 jackets floating around I probably wouldn't own as many as I do because the prices would have doubled or tripled due to being even more scarce. IMO, if noone else bid on in this jacket, I would have no problem wearing it. It'd probably be the closest thing to a Edwardian jacket someone like me could afford.
 

GoldenEraFan

One Too Many
Messages
1,164
Location
Brooklyn, New York
O! The Humanity!

that was once a beautiful 2-button notch lapel grey jacket. IMO the greatest of all the American cuts of the 30s. I personally couldn't give a damn about the belts and pleats, but that particular button/lapel configuration is to die for.

I don't think any decade did it better. Though I do also like the 1946-1950 bold look 2 button.
 

dhermann1

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,154
Location
Da Bronx, NY, USA
How tricky would it be to restore it to two button configuration? Could the two extra button holes be rewoven so as to be made invisible? Are those the same notches in the lapels that it started with?
 

DamianM

Vendor
Messages
2,055
Location
Los Angeles
How tricky would it be to restore it to two button configuration? Could the two extra button holes be rewoven so as to be made invisible? Are those the same notches in the lapels that it started with?

cant be done. you will see the mending on holes this big.
Just leave it as a four button and button it where it was intended.
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
Hm. This kind of "broken" lapel notch is called in German a "Knize" lapel (after a tailor of that name). I English HBK suggested the name "baby peak". This existed in the 1930's and could be original. However the lapel buttonhole looks "fishy"... It could have been a peak lapel that was altered. Although the topstitching looks original on the other hand.

But reweaving the top 2 "extra" buttonholes sounds like a mighty costly and unsatisfying effort. If it had some wrecked trousers, one could have used the fabric to create new lapel facings.

Beside this there are other issues with this jacket. Note the large patches on sleeve and pocket. Provided these are real patches meant to cover holes. I'm not sure, maybe they just cover some stains that could be removed or they were added for theatrical purposes.

I have no problem wearing vintage stuff that has wear, mends or slight alterations... but if these patches are for real then this is an unwearable rag to me. I agree that it's historical value now lies in the pattern one could make from it.
 
It's a goner. You can see the original line of the lapel, and both buttonholes would be visible even if restored to this original line. Maybe you could cover the holes with some pin badges, but as fastuni says, the rest of the thing is pretty much wrecked, too, with the patches and damage.

I have a 30s British jacket that has been similarly butchered (3-button with an added fourth), but when restored the forth buttonhole is hidden by the bottom of the lapel.
 

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