Advice for N1 deck jacket, vintage or repro?

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Raul, Nov 2, 2019.

  1. Raul

    Raul Familiar Face

    Messages:
    99
    Location:
    Italy
    I am looking for a nice N-1 jacket and I need suggestions from the more knowledgeable here. I would prefer an original vintage over a modern reproduction but I don't know how hard they are to find and a how much could be a fair price to pay for a very good one.
    Talking about repros, I do not want to pay the high price of a real McCoy (probably more expensive than an original), so I would point toward cheaper options like Houston, Pike Brothers or Bronson.
    Any advice is welcome
     
  2. barnabus

    barnabus Practically Family

    Messages:
    818
    Location:
    london
    There's several threads on exactly this already. I'm sure a search will reveal a wealth of previous info. The consensus for vfm has been Pike Bros iirc.

    Personally I couldn't even spring for that level of spend, so my N-1 pattern is a Carhartt Sheffield.

    You pays your money etc..
     
  3. breezer

    breezer Practically Family

    Messages:
    755
    Location:
    Scotland
    Levis do a really nice, and reasonable priced N1'ish jacket. In terms of vintage.....somebody more knowledgeable than me could tell you when they were issued, but one in wearable condition is going to cost several hundred bucks...... In terms of repro - I have a Houston N1 which is good, Pike Bros is another option.

    https://www.asos.com/levis/levis-borg-collar-deck-coat/prd/6653987
     
  4. dinomartino1

    dinomartino1 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    282
    Location:
    Perth, Australia
    Having had BR and bronson I would say bronson is without a doubt is way better value and not that inferior.
    I have never had a pike bros but on the VLJ those who have had both preferred the bronson for the price.
    Houstons generally have an artificial lining but they do wool ones but a lot more expensive, again I would go with bronson.
    Avoid the non stock N1 which is inferior in every way.

    Brosnon have a new model N1 out as well

    https://bronsonshop.com/products/br...marine-n-1-deck-jacket?variant=30692360912955
     
  5. Arizor

    Arizor One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    177
  6. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

    Messages:
    59
    With regard to the Bronson measurements, I'd like to know from some jacket owners if the size chart measurements on their pages match to the actual measurements.
    I sent a couple of messages to some people re selling their jackets cause were not fitting properly, asked for the measurements and there's a big difference especially for the back lenght.
    I'm looking for a short cut style of the N1 deck jacket as I'm not very tall, and while the Bronson website say the size 40 has a back lenght of 26,8 inches, the guy on ebay told me his size 40 measures 27,6 inches. it's 1 whole size of difference that would not let me pull the trigger cause the size chart back lenght 26,8 was already the max lenght I would go to.
    I don't want to look as baggy as those japanese guyz modelling and swimming in their N1 jackets.

    Any of you guyz could check for me and for the lounge the measurements for the size 40 of the Bronson N1 deck jacket?
    It would be very helpful and appreciated; I always prefer to double check from different sources when buying online.
    The chart says it's the 3st type and I noticed that in other Bronson size charts the measurements are a bit different, just a lil bit btw.
    Thanks all

    3brons.jpg
     
  7. Blackadder

    Blackadder Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,948
    Location:
    China
    If I were you i.e. with your concern, I would not buy it unless I get a chance to try it on. Problem 1 is their QC may accept a deviation of an inch within a batch. Problem 2 is finding the exact same batch because some makers are known to revise their cutting from one lot to another. For example, Real McCoy's Navy N-1 is slimmer and longer than their Khaki N-1 and then the special edition is completely different in cutting to those two. For RM, one has to look at the MJ model number to check the measurements (e.g. the current RM Navy N-1 MJ14109 was last revised in 2014). With RM, you can check measurements against the exact lot/model number. With Bronson, you can only find the type of jacket.
     
  8. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

    Messages:
    59
    I had a feeling it was like that, so I agree with you: maybe I needed someone else to make me sure about that:D,
    but it's frustrating anyway.
    I'll try to send them a message for actual measurements on the garment, otherwise I would not be able to buy something from far east with 80% of chances it wont fit.

    However if one of you Gents has a Bronsons N1, would be helpful to know the measurements. Maybe the jacket's tag has something about the production version ( 1st, 2nd, 3rd) so that we can figure out what size chart to look at.
     
  9. l0fielectronic

    l0fielectronic Practically Family

    Messages:
    668
    Location:
    UK
    Just had a 44 arrive today, latest model. Back length is 72cm from the back neck seam to the bottom of the jacket. Can check out the other measurements later if you like.
     
  10. 4444Design

    4444Design One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    190
    Location:
    Germany
    That's my BOB DONG in size 44 - 2017 production lot
    [​IMG]

    BOB DONG 44 - 2014 production lot
    [​IMG]

    BRONSON in size 44 - 2015 production lot
    [​IMG]

    another BRONSON in XXL - production lot 2016
    [​IMG]

    AtTheFront N1 in size large
    [​IMG]

    Just to Show the differences inbetween the different production dates
     
    MoFo and Bfd70 like this.
  11. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

    Messages:
    59
    size 44= 72 cm back lenght..... and the size chart say 71 cm, not much difference.
    The the size 42 should be around 70 cm and the size 40 around 68 cm if we suppose 2 cm of difference from size to size, but it's not a rule as we ve seen: it's between 1 or 2 cm, so the size 40 might be 68/69 cm, while the size chart says 67 cm.
    I'm aware it's not that much, but as I said, already 67 cm it's the max lenght I can accept for this kind of jackets in order no to look like a jar:D
     
  12. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

    Messages:
    59
    Great collection @4444Design ;);)
    Bob dong from what I know it's even longer than Bronson: we're still talking of little difference though
     
  13. l0fielectronic

    l0fielectronic Practically Family

    Messages:
    668
    Location:
    UK

    Quickly comparing the Bronson to the Pike Bros version I have the Bronson is cut noticeably longer. The Bronson is a size down from the Pike Bros jacket I have but is about 7-8cm longer in the body.

    Its also quite trimly cut in the chest with higher and smaller arm holes than you'd get in an original, its cut there more like a 'normal' Chinese cut jacket.

    Seeing your other thread - if your thinking was to size down I can see this might work in a Pike Bros jacket with the extra room in the shoulders/chest but in the Bronson you might find that leads to it being too trim there. If you want a shorter cut jacker the Pike Bros might work out better than the Bronson I would say.
     
  14. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

    Messages:
    59
    thanks @l0fielectronic for comparing the 2 jackets. I have not any of them, but I did some homeworks studying different brands fit and also Pike Bros was on my radar. I noticed it's on the "short side league" both from the size chart and from the outfit pics of people wearing it. My concern about Pike is that I believe they make the widest sleeves among all the n1 repro on the market.
    I mean, are very wide and even long I guess. I noticed that even on tall guyz where it should be easier to have an harmonic proportion, but those sleeves mess up the silhouette a bit in my opinion. For short guyz it's a disaster
     
  15. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

    Messages:
    59
    Is there a proxy service from U.S.A here on thefedoralounge ? Anyone providing this service?
    I'd need first of all to get in touch with the seller that does not sell to some european countries to ask him for the back lenght of a jacket.
    I'd be very thankful if anyone could help me out even just to send him a message, so that I will know if I can use a proxy service to buy or not the jacket
     
  16. 4444Design

    4444Design One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    190
    Location:
    Germany
    i think PIKE BROTHERS would be a good alternative also - mine is in size "L" without any complaints about sleevelength

    compared to the chinese versions i own PB is more roomier around the armpits

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    bn1966 and l0fielectronic like this.
  17. Blackadder

    Blackadder Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,948
    Location:
    China
    I think the 1st, 2nd and 3rd refers to the original version and not Bronson's batch. I think the original N-1 came first in Navy then in Khaki with some modifications e.g. no alpaca lining at the cuff. I read somewhere that the last version is in OD but not for sure.
     
  18. Edward

    Edward Bartender

    Messages:
    22,562
    Location:
    London, UK
    I've handeld and been very impressed with the Pike Bros. I'd have alrewady bought a few Bronson / Bob Dong / Overstock jackets by now if they only went a size or two higher; as it is, I could probably only wear their N1 with a shirt or t-shirt underneath, which makes little sense given it's a jacket designed for extreme cold. I hope they improve thesize range as they sell more to the West.
     
  19. l0fielectronic

    l0fielectronic Practically Family

    Messages:
    668
    Location:
    UK
    They do seem to be adding one extra, larger, size a year in some of the products I've noticed

    Yes, I ordered a Bronson as I have a Pike Bros jacket, it was great when I ordred it and we had a month of snow but in Autumn and less wintery conditions it can get a bit too warm at times. Plus I went for an XL in the Pike Bros which means mine is pretty roomy and I figured a Bronson would make a slightly trimmer, lighter jacket I might get more wear out of in between times.

    The Bronson is a trimer fitting jacket all round and the materials throughout are a not quite as nice as the Pike Bros I would say. It is half the price of the Pike version of course but comparing the two you can see why.

    Very happy with it at the price it is but the Pike Bros jacket feels like something that would be up to military issue whilst the Bronson definitely feels closer to a fashion jacket, for want of a better term.


    And wow @4444Design - I thought I was getting carried away ordering a 2nd N1 jacket :)
     
    Oakbark likes this.
  20. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

    Messages:
    59
    @4444Design Pike Bros would be the easiest option regarding shipping and returns as they are Europe based: I appreciate the accuracy and quality of their items and of their N1, but I see those sleeves extra wide and I also read several comments on this point.
    If I'm not wrong, when I was reading here on the lounge or somewhere else about the n1 jacket, I also read some posts from you and you said you're around 6 ft tall, I repeat I may be wrong, I should check again, but anyway even looking at your pics you look very tall: my legs are not that long for sure :D I'm 5 8,5 with wide shoulders, so if based of my height I should wear something around size 36/38, most of the times the only jackets that fit me proper are size 40....even 42 sometimes, so they are ok on my chest and shoulders but damn long. Those size jackets are for guyz 2 or 3 inches taller than me so the aesthetic of the same size on them and on me is completely different: same thing for the sleeves.

    Pike Bros would be perfect cause are roomy on the chest and short in lenght, while the sleeves are very long an wide even if the width can not be noticed by their size chart:
    66 cm for the size S with 58 cm for the chest would be just fine. ( 26 in x 22,5 in ): 66 cm for the sleeves ( long :eek:)

    pikesizek.jpg
    pikedggf.jpg


    I've to underline I'm too picky and not just for this kind of jacket, but they overly bulky, fuller, out of proportions compared to the lean body part.

    Here some pics of a period jacket worn by a tall person pos9.jpg
    per.jpg

    posss.jpg

    Maybe it's even too trim for the way we see historical photos of people wearing a N1, but this jacket it comes from that era, alpaca lining and maybe it got wasted and make the sleeves look slimmer: anyway for a short guy would be a plus.
    I would not wear a N1 if looking at the mirror I would resemble like some japanese guyz with their small build wearing their N1 repro.

    It looks like a sad story....mine :D:D... I'm used to this issue, but I enjoy hunting for the perfect garment that fit me well.
     

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