Advice for N1 deck jacket, vintage or repro?

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Raul, Nov 2, 2019.

  1. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

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    I agree again about the 2 different target for Bronson and Pike
     
  2. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

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    Seein this thread has some readers, I try to ask here if anyone can ID the brand of this jacket.
    I guess it's a fashion brand, so it's a mess track it down online.
    During my long research the unique brand with some similar features I found was Spiewak for Brook Brothers but I do not think is the same jacket:
    Some features I noticed:
    -the bottom button is quite high compared to the well know repro we usually talk about.
    -same thing for the zip, it's placed quite high.
    -it has not the horizontal seam at the bottom of the jacket below the last button
    -the kind of patch on the lower part might be a fixing, don't know
    rya1.jpg
    ryansswsw.jpg
    rynsgs.jpg

    Spiewak Brook Brothers version in a different colour
    spieg.jpg ryns.jpg
     

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  3. Blackadder

    Blackadder Call Me a Cab

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    Looking at those "tall" person photos, I think at least two of those guys are not able to zip up their jackets. They went way down on their sizes to achieve the look. It is sometimes almost impossible to achieve those photo looks unless you are willing to forgo practicality.
    Take for example Gosling was wearing only a white tee underneath. I have seen celebs wearing short sleeves tees underneath all kind of heavy jackets even a shearling B-3 type jackets. I don't think that is how most of us normal people dress.
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2019
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  4. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

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    Yes, I got what you mean and it's especially true about celebs wearing leather jackets that never zip up.
    In this case the Gosling's jacket seems quite roomy and the weather not so cold, plus he's wearing a backpack in most of the pics and the bag pull back and up; maybe it's for this reason that it may looks too small on him; just my impressions.
    From what I read online, the N1 lining both alpaca/ wool or synthetic is very warm so that it would needed some extra layer just if it get freezing.
    Where I live rarely goes below 32 F, maybe just 2 weeks, otherwise are winters between 45 / 50 F . I need an N1 no to wear many layers
     
  5. Bfd70

    Bfd70 Call Me a Cab

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    Disagree with this observation. My PB sleeves are proportional in both length and width. Bare in mind these are patterns from 80 year old military jackets meant to accomodate different body types in the fewest sizes possible. These are not designed to be modern slim fit jackets. Any modern pictures you see that make them look so are likely models wearing one size too small. Cool for pictures. Bad for life.
     
  6. Bfd70

    Bfd70 Call Me a Cab

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    Fwiw, I’m 5’10 36 or 37” chest, 33” sleeve length. PB size small fits perfectly. Acc to their chart I’m an xs. Tried one on. Sleeves too small, armpits too tight.
     
  7. Bfd70

    Bfd70 Call Me a Cab

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    A3365EC7-8765-44B8-9C91-EDF04AEAB9E0.jpeg
    Here is my favorite pic of that phenomenon. I wish i lived somewhere I’d never have to zipper a jacket or had so much money I could afford to buy one that I couldn’t.
    I really wish this was a fashion brand and not an Eastman.
    It’s also too dark for sunglasses but what ever.

     
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  8. Blackadder

    Blackadder Call Me a Cab

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    Sunglasses are always on for the camera flashes. LOL.
     
  9. l0fielectronic

    l0fielectronic Practically Family

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    Aw hes just like one of us. Can't even wait for the UPS guy to get back to his van before he's trying on his latest jacket :)
     
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  10. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

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    Being so slim and tall ....I guess he could even size up and zip up the jacket and still looking cool, but I see he knows well the game;). Not many people would look cool zipping up a double rider jacket: the proper ingredients in my opionions would be: long legs, slim build, top quality double rider jacket. I remember also Adam Levine often wear that kind of jacket: not Eastman
     
  11. Bfd70

    Bfd70 Call Me a Cab

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    F3B8EF71-C7C8-4970-8761-A6760344314E.jpeg 9C63E850-4FEE-4F0A-B169-CCCEAA1A6780.jpeg 59AE5D98-5751-4A93-BF68-DBD3CB27AA1C.jpeg
    I respectfully submit these TFL pictures in disagreement
     
  12. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

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    5.75 in. Celeb wearing N1 jacket: I guess he's shorter than 5.75 ....
    dreck.jpg

    I feel there's something not working: jeans too skinny paired with bulky jacket maybe / skinny and short legs and massive jacket / jacket 1 size bigger / zipped up jacket that by force make it bulker.
    The jacket itself has a short cut also considering how wide is it: many other n1 have a longer cut: a longer jacket on his build and with those skinny jeans/short legs would have worsened the aesthetic even more.

    like this:
    wors5.jpg



    I'm aware the proper cut of a N1 jacket is not a slim fit one
    duckwew.jpg

    but I think it's not the easiest jacket to wear if one care about the way he looks: it's confy, warm and a great historical garment, that's the reason I'd prefer a period jacket, but for those not very tall, there are some kind of jackets that would be better to avoid in order no to look shorter.
    I'd love to find the right n1 jacket for my build, but if I should not, I wont buy one just cause I like it....evene if sometimes I ve bought some pieces of clothing just to own them and keep them in my closet to admire them :D ( but it's a kind of illness).

    Anyway, the proper cut even on a not tall guy....may work very fine:
    391a5eb4b362cef4f3b99084ede98aa6.jpg
    duckwrrg.jpg
    dc91eddaac8286e9fc3f14b0d00ae00c--white-pants-work-wear.jpg

    Also the pants are not as skinny as Theroux jeans

    On half body photos anyway it looks better
    the-leftovers-justin-theroux-01.jpg squafd.jpg


    zipped up period jacket:
    duckewg.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2019
  13. Mich486

    Mich486 One Too Many

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    1,525
    No surprises there. Squarzi does it right with whatever clothes he throws on. Theroux should really ditch those skinnies but he dresses cool too.

    Imho don’t sweat it too much if you like the style. I don’t think tall/short makes much of a difference with an n1.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  14. Blackadder

    Blackadder Call Me a Cab

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  15. l0fielectronic

    l0fielectronic Practically Family

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    I had one of those unlined Rockdale Denim and Supply jackets. The material of it was first rate and the distressing looked 'realistic' but I just never wore it, it was just a bit too distressed looking for me I think.

    Sleeves were quite long from what I recall.
     
  16. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

    Messages:
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    Very nice cut this jacket, Thanks @Blackadder. It looks short on the model, so it should hit the right area in my case as I m shorter than that model.
    I guess I will probably end up buying a vintage one first of all cause I m a collector of war era clothing and cafe racer jackets and I need a N1 in order to dress light, with no many layers underneath the jacket. After many online listings I understood that authentic N1 of those times came in different cuts. 2 jackets sizes 38 for instance made by different companies or in different period may be shorter or longer even of 2 inches of difference.
    The short versione matches perfectly for my build (chest, Sleeves and back lenght) like made on measure as often happen with some vintage leather cafe racer jackets.
    Nowdays most of jackets have a longer cut due to current average height, but also cause it s better for makers to make longer garments as it cover most of the no-picky population. A longer garment is a matter of aestethic, tall guyz look good on those garments, short guyz look less good. But a short garment risk to leave a tall guy half bare back, so it s no longer a matter of pure aestethic, but functionality.
    Unfortunately I m too picky so I ve to check well every garment to see if fit well on me otherwise I d have a nice jacket that fit me awfully.
    Beside getting a vintage N1 I ll look also for a repro or a variant as that denim & supply type but not distressed as that one
     
  17. Oakbark

    Oakbark Familiar Face

    Messages:
    59
    hitting the right area in terms of lenght in my opinion for an authentic N1 jacket in contemporary style
    _20191216_153856.JPG
    _20191216_153740.JPG

    And yes... He can zip it up
    _20191216_155202.JPG
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2019
  18. joe mcqueen

    joe mcqueen New in Town

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    Location:
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    I have been on same quest as Oakbark for over year ... I am 5,9 175 ( 40-42s jackets) so most deck jackets that fit in shoulders and chest are to long :(.... Oakbark we seem to be looking for the same animal ; did you ever find one ?
    Thank you
     
  19. Vaquero357

    Vaquero357 New in Town

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    Location:
    Twin Cities
    ...love my Iron Heart N1!

    3C847882-366A-4015-ACBF-1C2B1E0AC4D7.jpeg
     
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  20. Bfd70

    Bfd70 Call Me a Cab

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    I’ve got the same one. Love it. Leaves room to layer and I’m wearingnit own to 20f.
    Ps gonna guess ih634 but what about the boots?
     

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