Aero Highwayman in big size (UK 52) - advice/experience

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by padDUS, Dec 30, 2019.

  1. padDUS

    padDUS New in Town

    Hello from Germany,

    I am looking for a Highwayman from AERO in CXL Cordovan.

    Problem is that my belly is quite big and I need a longer length in the front. the back length gets longer as well then.

    I tried a smaller jacket at Gasoline Alley in Munich and they put a piece of leather on the back to show, where the jacket will end. I asked AERO for advice, but they are on holidays at the moment.

    Does anyone have experience with bigger sizes? Is it possible to shorten the length at the back?

    Thanks for your advice.


    Peter Highwayman back length.jpg
     
  2. Carlos840

    Carlos840 I'll Lock Up

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    Hi,

    In my opinion the proposed new length would be FAR too long.
    To me where the jacket currently sit in the back is perfect, if you add all that extra back length it will look wrong, that jacket should not be covering your back pockets, it is not a coat!
    I would also shorten the sleeves as they look like they are covering your entire palm.

    It's hard to give advice without seeing the front of the jacket, but if you need to add that much length in the front maybe it isn't the right pattern for you?
    Maybe a model with a natural front drop rather than an even front/back bottom hem would work better?
     
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  3. padDUS

    padDUS New in Town

    Thanks for getting back.
    The sample jacket actually was too small and the arms were to long.
    It was just to get a first impression, how it may look.

    It really might be that the style does not work for me although I like it very much.
    I will see, if AERO will be able to shorten the back length or I have to go on diet..
     
  4. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

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    That jacket would definitely look better 3 to 4 cm longer in the back - To my taste they look best sitting just a cm over the back pocket. For a larger man, it's generally best to wear a longer jacket to accent the vertical. But perhaps you need a longer 3/4 style - especially if you have a large middle. The short styles can be unforgiving.

    I would suggest you try on some cloth Harrington, trucker style jackets and see what fits well and then measure a jacket that fits as you like it. It's not totally foolproof but a good indication.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2019
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  5. padDUS

    padDUS New in Town

    Thanks. I guess, you mean, it looks better 3 to 4 cm SHORTER in the back, right?
     
  6. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    Aero needs to incorporate a front dip on their Highwayman pattern IMHO. The Premier version has one and it makes the jacket so much more wearable.
    Don’t add the back length!
    The sample jacket looks to be a good length (maybe a little longer, but not the leather piece).
     
  7. padDUS

    padDUS New in Town

    Problem is, that if I choose the back length without the leather piece, it will we too short in the front.
    Do you think, the Premier version will fit better?
     
  8. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    No, the premier has slim sleeves.
    Just ask for the Premier style front length. I think it is 1.5in.
    You could try the 30s Half-belt. It has 3in. added to the front.
     
  9. beckster

    beckster New in Town

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    I'm 5'10 and 205 lbs with a belly that excceeds my chest by about 2 inches. I love my size 42 (labeled) Aero Highwayman. I think it is maybe plus1 or plus2 inches in length but the hem of the jacket is still higher than the sleeves. I have it cinched to about 20 inches and my fat friends think it looks great on me. Stick with the classic fit Aero Highwayman, I think it is the best option for the not tapered guy. Regards from Minneapolis where it is really snowing!
     
  10. Carlos840

    Carlos840 I'll Lock Up

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    Do you have front pics of the stock jacket?
     
  11. padDUS

    padDUS New in Town

    Yes, would be great, if you have a foto.

    I am 130 kg (286 lbs) and 1,75 m (5'9).

    The guy at Gasoline Alley Munich told me, that AERO is not able to alter the front and back length separatly. So if I add length in the front, the same is added in the back. And he also was not sure, if they can do my size at all. Therefore I am really curiously waiting for the answer of AERO, if that is correct. I really like the Highwayman.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2019
  12. El Marro

    El Marro Call Me a Cab

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    I would wait to see what the folks at Aero think. If the only option is adding that much length in the back then I think you need to look at a different model because that would just be too long as others have said.
     
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  13. beckster

    beckster New in Town

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Twin Cites, Minnesota, USA
    I don't have a photo of me in my much loved HWM to share. Looking at the photo in your post, the jacket hem goes over the waist band of your jeans which to me is the right length. I wear medium rise 5 pocket jeans (LC King) with braces to hold them up, and usually a mock turtle neck shirt tucked into the jeans. Medium rise jeans (with braces) and classic fit HWM is quite comfortable when I move around. That is what I wear everyday unless there is a really good reason to wear something else. Yes I am retired. If you really want more length you are looking at a coat length not a jacket length which is in my view a whole different story. I have a longer leather coat with buttons and it is bigger to allow for a light sweater underneath. Different use different look. Maybe you need two leather options. Do you have more fit pictures? The one posted makes it hard to judge the shoulders chest. You don't want it too tight or too loose up there. I assume your looking at pretty thick horsehide right? breaking in the jacket will be work and drape is a consideration.
     
  14. padDUS

    padDUS New in Town

    Actually I do not want more length. Like the short style.
    But maybe it is a good idea to use braces. I use them on my suits (actually not very common in Germany, I had them made in London), but never tried with jeans. Maybe this will solve the problem as the jeans are kept in a higher position and do not fall down underneath the belly. Then the look of the HWM would be much better I think.

    No, unfortunatly I do not have more fotos of the HWM, but I was at Hack Lederware in Cologne, they do custom leather jackets as well. I took some fotos of jackets, that I tried, but they were all to small. I will post them later to give you an idea.
     
  15. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    You could try Thedi Leathers. His jackets dip in front. They have them at Harry Damson.
     
  16. padDUS

    padDUS New in Town

    Checked them, but I do not really like the style.
     
  17. padDUS

    padDUS New in Town

    Here are the fotos of the Hack jackets (all were too small) p1.jpg p2.jpg p3.jpg p4.jpg
     
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  18. padDUS

    padDUS New in Town

    Just checked for VANSON, maybe that might be an alternative. The Dakota looks nice. Not sure, if they are able to custom make different front/back length.
     
  19. Carlos840

    Carlos840 I'll Lock Up

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    Straight from Vanson:
    "We don't have to modify the front and back length at the same time.You can choose to shorten the front and keep the back as is. Or the other way around."

    I have 4 and IMO they are great jackets, i am actually planning my 5th one.
     
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  20. Jejupe

    Jejupe Practically Family

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    Location:
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    Maybe not what you want to hear, but here's my 2 cents: If you want a perfectly fitting jacket, you should lose most of the belly or go full custom with your order, which means forgetting Aero. You have exceptional dimensions, and Aero's basic patterns will always be a compromise for you, as they're made for the average sized people. Good options to go custom are Langlitz and Johnson leathers. Langlitz will make you a jacket based on measurements you give them. With them you need to choose from one of their existing models. Johnson will make you first a fit jacket out of cloth and adjust dimensions for final product based on the fit of the cloth jacket. Johnson will build you any pattern you wish for (don't be scared of their website, their finer creations can be found from Instagram). Both of these companies make excellent products.

    Also if you're unwilling to order from US, don't overlook Simmons Bilt. They get a lot of flak around here, but they build jackets which are on par with Aero's quality, and they are much more open to custom orders, including alterations to accommodate unusual proportions.
     
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