Aero Highwayman vs Premier Highwayman

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Princealbert, Nov 8, 2017.

  1. Princealbert

    Princealbert New in Town

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    UK
    Hi, I previously owned a Highwayman but found it to be too large. This is because I bought that jacket in my standard suit size and I have since discovered that this style from Aero comes up very large. We all learn the hard way.
    I'd like to buy another jacket in the same style but I'd like it to be closer fitting. Is there any point in sizing down in the Highwayman or should I just order the PH in my usual suit size?
    Does anyone with experience of wearing both styles have any observations on the pros and cons of either jacket?
    Thanks in advance for your help.
     
  2. Edward

    Edward Bartender

    Messages:
    21,843
    Location:
    London, UK
    The Highwayman in standard form is a boxy jacket. I wear a 42 in that one, whereas I wear a 44 or 46 in Aero's prewar patterns. As to what works for you, it alldepends what you want. Gonig down one size in the Highwayman can be fine, but you do have to accept it's always going to be a boxy, 50s American style jacket. Some folks size down two sizes, or in the past asked to have their jacket cut nater, but to my mind all that you end up with then is a boxy jacket that's too small.... or trying to alter a boxy pattern rather than buy something that's a narrower cut to begin with. The Premier Highwayman is cut like a pre-war design halfbelt, just a simplified pattern with a yoke on an otherwise plain back. It wll fit like those neat-cut pre-war jackets. In between is the Original 59er Highwayman. This latter jacket is based on the original Highwayman-branded (manufactured by Rivetts of Leytonstone, a one-time rival of Lewis Leathers) jacket on which Ken based the first Aero Highwayman in 1983. With that design - the standard Highwayman as we nowknow it - Ken made it boxier and more Americanised by design; the Original 59er is a truer copy of the original. Very similar to a Lewis Dominator or Corsair in fit: much neater than the stsandard Highwayman, but a little bit more room in it than the Premier.

    Worth dropping Holly at Aero a line for advice; she knows the product line inside out and can advise which jacket will best suit what you're after, as well as guide you on size.
     
    Acererak likes this.
  3. Stringmaster

    Stringmaster One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    246
    Here's a link regarding my custom Premier Highwayman. I went through Carrie at Thurston Bros. I used a 30's half-belt as a "fit jacket" and wanted something trimmer as I felt there was an excess of material in the arms. Carrie sized me up from my regular suit jacket size (and from the fit jacket) in the Premier fit. FWIW I kind of wanted the '59er Highwayman but she indicated that it would be too bulky/boxy on me, as well as the standard Highwayman. After owning the jacket for a while, I like the way it looks fit wise, but it still feels a bit restrictive in the shoulders and arms. In all fairness I haven't worn the jacket a lot due to when I received it and it has loosened up some--just need it to loosen up more. Now that jacket season is coming up it will see more wear. I'd say that if you are more on the average to lean side you might like the Premier fit, but if you are a bigger guy you might not like the trim fit. Here's the link to my original post with more detail/pics:

    http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-new-custom-premier-highwayman.89630/
     
  4. nick123

    nick123 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,233
    Location:
    California
    I have a new steer Highwayman arriving Friday. I will provide info on it for reference. I know I do better in a 30s style but the Highwayman is SO COOL.
     
  5. Princealbert

    Princealbert New in Town

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    UK
    Thank you for the input guys - that's incredibly helpful, especially your detailed synopsis Edward.
    I have a fairly lean build and I suspect that Premier Highwayman is going to be the way to go for me.
    Stringman, I love the look of your jacket with the many non-standard details and the trimmer fit in the arms is definitely what I am looking for.
     
    Edward and Stringmaster like this.
  6. Cyber Lip

    Cyber Lip Practically Family

    Messages:
    629
    Location:
    Seattle
    I wear a 42 in their Premiere jackets, but a 38 in a standard highwayman. Sizing down in that style works great as long as you can spec the sleeve and back lengths
     
  7. Princealbert

    Princealbert New in Town

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    UK
    Thanks. Would you regard 42 as your ‘normal’ size in say a suit jacket so that you are going down two sizes to get a good fit in the standard Highwayman?
     
  8. GW KY

    GW KY A-List Customer

    Messages:
    446
    Did extensive talking with Carrie at Thurston, and emailed Aero. I used a 38 fit jacket HWM and am usually a 42 suit jacket. It was perfect, form fitting, not boxy at all. Figure out length of body and arms and it should be what you are looking for. I considered the premiere, but it is a bit different than the classic HWM.
    I tried on a very thick cordovan cxl fqhh, looked gorgeous, but was a bit heavy for me. I wanted a warmer weather jacket, so went with dark seal vicenza, olive sateen lining. Fingers crossed, here early December!
     
    Princealbert and El Marro like this.
  9. johnnyutah#9

    johnnyutah#9 New in Town

    Messages:
    3
    I picked up this modified premier Highwayman. Beautiful jacket but feels a little restrictive in the shoulders and back. Maybe a little short. I dig the trimness of the premier range and like a slim fit but do you think this a little small on me?

    IMG_2334.JPG
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    IMG_2332.JPG

    IMG_2328.JPG

     
    Monitor likes this.
  10. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    8,380
    Location:
    SoCal
    Looks great from here, but I know what you mean: sometimes the ones that look fantastic feel tight.
     
    sweetfights likes this.
  11. Princealbert

    Princealbert New in Town

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    UK
     
  12. johnnyutah#9

    johnnyutah#9 New in Town

    Messages:
    3
    Thanks Prince- Ive been wearing it every day and around the house since getting this. It seems to be loosening up and "morphing" to my body the more I have it on. I'm glad I went with a little tight than a little boxy. Becoming very happy with the purchase. FYI- this Premier Higwayman is a 42 and I wear a 40 in all jackets. I dont think I would even be able to get into a size smaler than this one but everyone's body is different. Grab measurments for sure before getting the same size as your suits in the premier range. Just my opinion and thanks again.
     
  13. Cyber Lip

    Cyber Lip Practically Family

    Messages:
    629
    Location:
    Seattle
    I'd say that's about right. My chest measurement is 40", shoulders 18"
     

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