Aero Premier HWM Fit Feedback

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Alex321, Jul 16, 2020.

  1. Alex321

    Alex321 New in Town

    Messages:
    11
    Hi Folks!

    I recently received my very first Aero via Thurston Bros (thanks, Carrie!). I went through the fit jacket process, but actually decided to just keep the fit jacket, which is pictured below (and move a custom project on to a Hooch Hauler...).

    Anyway, I'm hoping for some additional feedback on fit/style issues that I might improve on a future premier-pattern jacket (30s HB, Seabiscuit, etc...), or perhaps learn about patterns that might even better suit my narrow-ish, average frame (Sheene? Seven? Other?).

    For example, while I find this PHWM fits very well, it feels like I could possibly benefit from slightly more shoulder length for when layered and zipped (which I guess would mean going up a size in the premier cuts, or going with a different pattern?). Also, the neck/collar fits very snug and my square shoulder line pushes it farther forward, which slightly exacerbates the tightness. I'm wondering, though, if that's just an issue that will loosen up with wear, as many (thick) seams meet at the collar? Of course I need to simply wear it...

    The leather is Seal Vicenza. It looks subdued in dim artificial light and quite dynamic in natural brighter light. It wears quite comfortably, but certainly not "light" (though, take that with a grain of salt, as I don't own anything heavier as a point of reference...). I'm really happy with this jacket - wearing it around the house in the middle of July like an idiot! IMG_2726-1.jpg IMG_2775.jpg IMG_2784.jpg IMG_2780.jpg

    Any thoughts appreciated...

    (and sorry for the quality of the photos, but my 8-year-old did his best with my phone in poor light)

    IMG_2726-1.jpg IMG_2775.jpg
    IMG_2784.jpg
    IMG_2780.jpg
     
  2. stmike

    stmike One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    207
    Location:
    Pasadena California
    I think it looks great on you!
     
    Alex321 likes this.
  3. Imuricecreamman

    Imuricecreamman Practically Family

    Messages:
    556
    I'd say you nailed it. Some like them a bit shorter (me) but I would wear the shit out of that one. Lovely shape to the collar as well.
     
    Alex321 likes this.
  4. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt A-List Customer

    Messages:
    395
    Alex, welcome to tfd. That's a great looking jacket. Congrats. I wouldn't go up in shoulder width. Looks spot on, accommodating some layering. I honestly think this jacket is a very good fit. If I had to name one thing, I would try a shorter sleeve length, not much maybe 2cm. But that's just personal preference. I think lots of people here on the lounge will disagree with me :)
     
    Alex321 likes this.
  5. Psant25

    Psant25 Practically Family

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    773
    Looks like a great fit! Congrats
     
    Alex321 likes this.
  6. nick123

    nick123 I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    6,028
    Location:
    California
    Looks top notch to me!
     
    Alex321 likes this.
  7. Will Zach

    Will Zach Practically Family

    Messages:
    771
    Location:
    Northeast USA
    This is a fine fit. Do you have a shot of the back, zipped?
     
  8. Boyo

    Boyo One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,558
    Location:
    Long Island NY
    Nice Jacket!.. Photographically its looks pretty perfect. but the proof is in how it feels, take some measurements of the jacket and save them, give the jacket some time to break-in/loosen up ( steady wear for 6 months /a full Winter season) does it feel any better?.. After the break-in process re-measure and compare with original measurements, see if the jacket/leather "moved" at all, if so make those new #'s your go to measurements moving forward..
     
  9. Alex321

    Alex321 New in Town

    Messages:
    11
    Thanks! No, sorry, I didn't have the back photoed. I'm off to a camping trip, but will try and post a shot of the back this weekend...In the event that the back is sloppy, what customizable factors would lead to correction? Are there front to back balance issues that are possible to adjust? Also wondering if there is a "square vs sloped" shoulder option in the fit process, which I neglected to ask about. But that's why I asked about alternative patterns - some that might be better for square shoulders, others for sloped, etc...
     
  10. Alex321

    Alex321 New in Town

    Messages:
    11
    Very helpful...thanks!
     
  11. Will Zach

    Will Zach Practically Family

    Messages:
    771
    Location:
    Northeast USA
    Premier HWM tends to have a "boxy" fit. I believe some members here alleviated it by a custom taper. Hopefully someone who did it successfully will chime in.
     
    Alex321 likes this.
  12. Great fit. Looks good. My first Aero Highwayman ( purchased 20 years ago ) which I first thought was too tight in the shoulders did loosen up gradually after few months of wearing it through the fall and into the winter months ( thanks to Ken's suggestion of giving it some time ). It has been comfy to wear since. I still often grab it when heading out the door.
    HD
     
  13. AeroFan_07

    AeroFan_07 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,772
    Location:
    Iowa
    Alex that looks very nice in my opinion. I think you (And Carrie) got it nearly 100% right the first time. She is great to work with. And the PHWM is the right way to go if you have a more athletic build, as you clearly do. Glad you 8-year old was able to share in your experace here.

    Feel free to add to and check out this thread that has a lot more info: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/highwayman-zip-sleeve-highwayman-database.99955/
     
    Fanch and Alex321 like this.
  14. jacketjunkie

    jacketjunkie One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,842
    Location:
    Germany
    Aero does not offer different shoulder shapes nor any other pattern changes other than body and sleeve length and if you're lucky some taper in the body, like a size 40 jacket with a size 38 bottom hem or in other words -2" in the body. You're not going to score better than this tbh, it's a good fit. If you're unhappy with this fit, which again is great from what can be seen on pictures, you have to look elsewhere. E.g. Langlitz offers their jackets with three different shoulder shapes.
     
    ProteinNerd and Alex321 like this.
  15. Finn Vigorous

    Finn Vigorous Familiar Face

    Messages:
    71
    Great looking jacket and the fit is spot on.

    As HD said, the shoulder area will loosen up a bit gradually overall but based on my own experiences, the shoulder stitches pretty much stay where they are after all.

    I've had quite a many regular HWMs and as I've been losing some weight lately decided to take the Premier route for my next Highwayman. Yet I found the shoulder to hem ratio extremely tricky for my body type and decided to go for my normal size of 42 with 1" added to the shoulder width and 1" taper towards the hem on both sides. As for a reference, I wear a size 40 Sheene, which is a tad on the slim side as intended to be used without layering, and a size 42 Premier Work Coat perfect with a bit thicker layers for the colder seasons.

    The up-coming PHWM has been in the process for a while but will post pics when I finally got it.

    If you're about to customize an Aero jacket more than the usual length issues, I suggest to pay a visit to Galashiels to discuss the matter.
     
    Alex321 likes this.
  16. Cyber Lip

    Cyber Lip Practically Family

    Messages:
    554
    Location:
    Seattle
    I have an issue with the fit of the Premier collar as well. Not the collar itself but the way the neck hole is cut. It's oblong going up and down, instead of round or oblong going side to side, like a standard neck hole. I have a Premier half-belt in Vicenza and I didn't really notice it on that jacket, but then I got a Premier Highwayman in CXL and it's freaking unforgiving with the stiffer leather lol. I worked on it and got it to where it's not so bad unzipped, but zipped...forget about it, the sides of the collar dig into my neck. And I have a normal to thin neck btw, if I had a stocky neck it would be ridiculous. Strange, as the cut of the jacket is made for a stocky-ish frame
     
    Alex321 likes this.
  17. MrProper

    MrProper One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    178
    What I've read, the HWM has a boxier fit. For me personally it would be too wide. But I prefer a tight fit. On this jacket the shoulder width, P2P and hem / waist would be too wide for me.
    But that's personal taste. Great if you feel comfortable in it.
     
  18. Alex321

    Alex321 New in Town

    Messages:
    11
    Thanks! I'm definitely very happy with this jacket...I'm just getting feedback to confirm or deny my own assessments since I don't really have much experience with leather fits - my only reference points have been online photos, which can be misleading. I'm also asking because I want to delve further into this jacket world, but kind of lucked into this, so...
     
    El Marro and AeroFan_07 like this.
  19. Alex321

    Alex321 New in Town

    Messages:
    11
    Exactly = oblong. The Vicenza might be my friend with this...
     
  20. AeroFan_07

    AeroFan_07 Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,772
    Location:
    Iowa
    Careful Alex - once you fall into these waters - they get rather deep and your wallet hurts quickly. :)
     
    ton312 and Alex321 like this.

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