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Agnoulita Hats

jeff

One of the Regulars
Messages
171
Location
Missouri
Very nice! You have a winner there. Kudos to Mr. P!

The fur almost looks like it's a light heather -- is that accurate, or just the photography?
 

belfastboy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,832
Location
vancouver, canada
My last new Agnoulita was from October 2019. I decided to order another for three reasons:

1. I wanted a lords hat and those are tough to find on the vintage market in my size.

2. I wanted to see how his beaver felt compared as all my other Agnoulitas have been rabbit or hare (they didn’t used to offer beaver).

3. I wanted to see how Mr. P’s hat making has changed in the last three years.

This hat took an extra four weeks to complete as we had to wait on the specific ribbon I wanted. The curl wasn’t what I wanted when I received the hat. Mr. P had minimized the curl to give me the widest possible brim that he knew I wanted. Unfortunately, it just wasn’t the style I wanted. He sent a DHL driver to pick it up and within 10 days I had the hat back and the curl was fixed. Great service!

The hat has an open crown height of just over six inches and the brim is just under three inches before the curl. The felt is nice and an immediately obvious step up from the rabbit or hare felt. It isn’t as nice, in my opinion, as FEPSA or Winchester, but it’s not at all disappointing. It has some spring back and needs steam to hold its shape, but it’s dense and has a nice hand. I have no hesitation recommending the felt.

The hat has his new curled edge sweatband and I can’t say I can tell a difference yet. Maybe over the years? It’s certainly comfortable and super thin and supple…it’s the nicest leather sweatband I’ve seen on any of my custom hats. The the fit (size 62cm) is perfect too. I did find it interesting that the sweatband was sewed on differently from any other hat I have, including my older Agnoulitas. The stitching to the felt is usually right at the stitching where the reed is sewed to the leather. It doesn’t make a difference on feel, but it’s different (see last photo). Nice to see that he is now sewing in the liners too.

It’s a win and a bargain at less than $300 with free shipping!

View attachment 456251 View attachment 456252 View attachment 456253 View attachment 456254 View attachment 456255 View attachment 456256 View attachment 456257 View attachment 456258 View attachment 456260
In the picture of the sweat it looks like the reed sits below the brim break.....it sits inside the hat rather than slightly outboard....am I seeing it right?
 
Messages
16,625
Location
Central California
In the picture of the sweat it looks like the reed sits below the brim break.....it sits inside the hat rather than slightly outboard....am I seeing it right?


His sweatbands have all sat proud to the felt ever sense he went to a sewing machine rather than hand sewing. This is not as pronounced as on an earlier hat of his I have. It bothered me on the first, but I was expecting it and this wasn’t as bad as my last. I wish it was seated better and flush, but that’s just not his way.
 

belfastboy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,832
Location
vancouver, canada
His sweatbands have all sat proud to the felt ever sense he went to a sewing machine rather than hand sewing. This is not as pronounced as on an earlier hat of his I have. It bothered me on the first, but I was expecting it and this wasn’t as bad as my last. I wish it was seated better and flush, but that’s just not his way.
The theory is that the reeded area of the sweat sits curled slightly onto the brim so the reed area of the sweat does not really touch the skin...just the leather of the sweat making contact. This supposedly makes the sweats more comfortable as the reed may dig into the skin. Can you feel the reeded area against your forehead?
 

belfastboy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,832
Location
vancouver, canada
The theory is that the reeded area of the sweat sits curled slightly onto the brim so the reed area of the sweat does not really touch the skin...just the leather of the sweat making contact. This supposedly makes the sweats more comfortable as the reed may dig into the skin. Can you feel the reeded area against your forehead?
I remember your post from a while back after your visit to Tatton Baird. He criticizes Art's sweat band placement as he thought Art's reeded area extended too far onto the brim. Is there such a thing as the perfect spot?
 
Messages
16,625
Location
Central California
The theory is that the reeded area of the sweat sits curled slightly onto the brim so the reed area of the sweat does not really touch the skin...just the leather of the sweat making contact. This supposedly makes the sweats more comfortable as the reed may dig into the skin. Can you feel the reeded area against your forehead?

I can’t feel the reed. The hat fits well and the leather is thin, soft, and supple…all I could want. I can see how the reed positioning could cause discomfort, but so far I haven’t experienced it. I do wish it was seated deeper, but it doesn’t really bother me.

I’ve been wearing it around the house mostly. :)
 
Messages
16,625
Location
Central California
I remember your post from a while back after your visit to Tatton Baird. He criticizes Art's sweat band placement as he thought Art's reeded area extended too far onto the brim. Is there such a thing as the perfect spot?


I’ve been impressed that Art was never one to criticize another hatter. He discouraged direct comparisons or value for money discussions regarding other hat makers. He was always willing to share information and wanted to see the craft improve and not just his position in the market. The criticisms at Tatton Baird did not make me want to spend money in his shop…that and I’m cheap. :)
 

Sincityhatcollector

Familiar Face
Messages
51
The theory is that the reeded area of the sweat sits curled slightly onto the brim so the reed area of the sweat does not really touch the skin...just the leather of the sweat making contact. This supposedly makes the sweats more comfortable as the reed may dig into the skin. Can you feel the reeded area against your forehead?
I can't feel the reed on mine and it appears to curl towards the brim.
 
Messages
16,220
Location
Nederland
My last new Agnoulita was from October 2019. I decided to order another for three reasons:

1. I wanted a lords hat and those are tough to find on the vintage market in my size.

2. I wanted to see how his beaver felt compared as all my other Agnoulitas have been rabbit or hare (they didn’t used to offer beaver).

3. I wanted to see how Mr. P’s hat making has changed in the last three years.

This hat took an extra four weeks to complete as we had to wait on the specific ribbon I wanted. The curl wasn’t what I wanted when I received the hat. Mr. P had minimized the curl to give me the widest possible brim that he knew I wanted. Unfortunately, it just wasn’t the style I wanted. He sent a DHL driver to pick it up and within 10 days I had the hat back and the curl was fixed. Great service!

Mr. P calls the felt color Pewter. The hat has an open crown height of just over six inches and the brim is just under three inches before the curl. The felt is nice and an immediately obvious step up from the rabbit or hare felt. It isn’t as nice, in my opinion, as FEPSA or Winchester, but it’s not at all disappointing. It has some spring back and needs steam to hold its shape, but it’s dense and has a nice hand. I have no hesitation recommending the felt.

The hat has his new curled edge sweatband and I can’t say I can tell a difference yet. Maybe over the years? It’s certainly comfortable and super thin and supple…it’s the nicest leather sweatband I’ve seen on any of my custom hats. The the fit (size 62cm) is perfect too. I did find it interesting that the sweatband was sewed on differently from any other hat I have, including my older Agnoulitas. The stitching to the felt is usually right at the stitching where the reed is sewed to the leather. It doesn’t make a difference on feel, but it’s different (see last photo). Nice to see that he is now sewing in the liners too.

It’s a win and a bargain at less than $300 with free shipping!

View attachment 456251 View attachment 456252 View attachment 456253 View attachment 456254 View attachment 456255 View attachment 456256 View attachment 456257 View attachment 456258 View attachment 456260
I really like the look of it, Brent. The little heathering on the felt makes all the difference.
 

Sincityhatcollector

Familiar Face
Messages
51
So this is my Agnoulita Pandamator, rabbit/hare felt. I ordered the hat in Pewter, Ash hatband, open crown, Fire liner, and Petrol sweatband.
Resize_20221125_184933_3605.jpg
Resize_20221125_184933_3160.jpg
Resize_20221125_184932_2692.jpg

The red liner above is very close in shade when not viewed without any bright lighting. If viewed with bright lighting in the room you get the bold red appearance below.

Resize_20221125_184934_4121.jpg
I also asked for an extra pleat at the front of the hat band for an asymmetrical appearance.
Resize_20221125_184935_5539.jpg
I have reshaped the crown with a more traditional front pinch. A squarer appearance at the back. Resize_20221125_184935_5114.jpg Resize_20221125_184934_4626.jpg

The colors are close of the felt and ribbon are truer to picture of the top of the crown after shaping.
 

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Messages
16,625
Location
Central California
So this is my Agnoulita Pandamator, rabbit/hare felt. I ordered the hat in Pewter, Ash hatband, open crown, Fire liner, and Petrol sweatband. View attachment 467786 View attachment 467787 View attachment 467789
The red liner above is very close in shade when not viewed without any bright lighting. If viewed with bright lighting in the room you get the bold red appearance below.

View attachment 467790
I also asked for an extra pleat at the front of the hat band for an asymmetrical appearance.
View attachment 467791
I have reshaped the crown with a more traditional front pinch. A squarer appearance at the back. View attachment 467792 View attachment 467793

The colors are close of the felt and ribbon are truer to picture of the top of the crown after shaping.


Nice. What are the specs? Open crown height and brim width?
 

M Hatman

My Mail is Forwarded Here
So this is my Agnoulita Pandamator, rabbit/hare felt. I ordered the hat in Pewter, Ash hatband, open crown, Fire liner, and Petrol sweatband. View attachment 467786 View attachment 467787 View attachment 467789
The red liner above is very close in shade when not viewed without any bright lighting. If viewed with bright lighting in the room you get the bold red appearance below.

View attachment 467790
I also asked for an extra pleat at the front of the hat band for an asymmetrical appearance.
View attachment 467791
I have reshaped the crown with a more traditional front pinch. A squarer appearance at the back. View attachment 467792 View attachment 467793

The colors are close of the felt and ribbon are truer to picture of the top of the crown after shaping.
VERY, VERY Nice!!!!
 

Sincityhatcollector

Familiar Face
Messages
51
I wanted to post an update picture for them crown shape as the one I uploaded previously, looked a little rough. I took a few additional mins to make it look a little smoother and crisper the next morning.
received_1491434314700406.jpeg

From above your can see the right side is a little sharper angle than the left. This was so that when worn it would have a more even appearance. Since the bow design pushes everything visually to the right.


20221126_151739_HDR~2.jpg

I was inspired in part by this crown from the movie Harvey. Screenshots_2022-11-29-19-54-03.png

I like how they back of the crown had a more squared appearance.
 
Messages
16,625
Location
Central California
I have a fedora on order…don’t think it’s going to make it on time for Christmas. While checking on my order I ran across the Dakota in the western section. It’s shown with a 2 ¾” wide brim, but the 3 ½” brim with the ¾” curl caught my imagination. I expect it will arrive mid-January.

D05BD78D-437D-4E9A-98E3-F6D23E9FE45E.jpeg
114A31BC-F973-486F-B420-8CD2C9C1E4BD.jpeg
F8DF5E26-4D46-4EA5-8FEC-DBD5480DC089.jpeg



https://www.hnc-hatworks.com/en-us/products/the-dakota
 

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