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Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Hawk_Eye, Oct 24, 2008.
I'll take the car but pass on the Irvin style jacket.
some sort of repro used as costume in a stock photo
I'm with Andrew, I'd love a SS100 but the prices make my teeth hurt!
So, I notice that some repros have what looks like an acrylic top coat that yields the crackled finish one also sees on some originals. Has anyone had the nerve to apply acrylic to a repro to go beyond the dull matte finishes now sold by the likes of ELC?
The very recent jackets are quite shiny but still have that dry cracked mud topography. Texture is usually achieved by one layer shrinking at a different rate to a top coat.
Bath it gently with body temp water, dry it and oil it during and whilst drying...Texture becomes as per ww2 originals and will never crack nor have this muddy topography.
Or, hot shower then towel dry.
Never hot.... max 35deg C...and dry towelling a B-3 or an Irvin may take days...besides, oiling needs to be done in the very same process...Air drying is the best... bathing temp arround 35deg for approx an hour.
Been doing this a LONG time over 20 years.
Everyone has his way...if all works...why not?
Here is a pic of one of Andrew's originals that has the finish I desire for my '04 ELC.
And here's a pic of my jacket, which does not seem to have the same finish at all. I attribute the gloss and crackle on Andrew's jacket to the application of some sort of acrylic finish in the manufacturing process. I think it would be madness to experiment on my jacket. That's why I was wondering if anyone has tried to add sheen to their finish.
Hmmm. Not a great pic but you can tell that it is matte and has no crackling.
As for the washing, wetting methods to alter the finish, I wouldn't want to use hot water - having ruined a nice wool sweater that way once, but I wear it in the rain at times with no apparent effect.
Please try it with 35-38deg ( body temp) warm water, soak it for approx two hours,
Air dry it and put your favored leather treatment whilst air drying.
Put it onto a " frame" or manequin during drying in order to keep shape.
Put plastic bottles in the s leeves/cuffs area to keep the desired open area....and avoid shrinking. I made a "clone" of my torso out of styro-foam...so I am sure when drying it always go back in shape as "I " need it.
[QUOTE="Cooper A-2: I made a "clone" of my torso out of styro-foam...so I am sure when drying it always go back in shape as "I " need it.
Coop, you cloned your torso out of styrofoam? That's great! Truly the spirit of leather jacket OCD and mad improvisation that I read so much of on FL. Love it.
Thx, yes I did...took me 1 day to carve it out.
Its light its easy to carry it arround and it works!
Slightly off topic, but I have seen your post on VLJ regarding an Eastman Merino Irvin that you own. You stated that you had scant information of its history. If it's a size 48 and you bought it from EBay around 2010, then it was probably mine.
I bought it from Elc in 1993 and wore it regularly.
Hope this information helps? assuming it is the same jacket. A friend sold it on Ebay on my behalf-he had little information and I believe you were the buyer.
In hindsight I wish I'd kept her, I'm now looking for another! Oh well-for the love of jackets.
Only rain, snow, sun, wind, frost, and above all, time is the best tanner / painter jackets
Irvin (this also applies A2 , B3)worn by eight years, over the years it is becoming more beautiful
other acceleration makeup / characterization it is a sign of a lack of patience
imho .Beautiful art requires time and patience
Your loss was my gain. I sold the jacket to Cliff, he had it for a few years then he sold it back to me. A stunning jacket very well worn.