Alright, just answer me this...

[Jerekson]

I consider myself a hat junky, yes, but somehow I have never known what a cavanagh edge brim is.

Pathetic, no?

Could someone enlighten me to this and spare me any more humiliation?

-J

 

[Cacklewack]

Greetings,

From what I recall, the cavanagh is an edge with a fold that is seamless -- it is done during the felting process.

See this thread to learn more:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=4993&highlight=cavanagh+edge

Matt

 

[tonyb]

Someone may well beat me to this, Jerekson, but here goes ...
Do you know what an overwelted brim edge is? You know, the last quarter or three-eighths of an inch or so of the brim is folded over and stitched down?
Now imagine an overwelted edge without stitching. That's what a Cavanagh (or Mode or Guild) edge looks like. Brad Bowers did some extensive research on it a while back. The Cav edge treatment is (or was) done during the felting process. I believe that an overwelted brim was refelted to fill in the stitch marks. (Was the stitching actually removed beforehand? Brad?)
The process shows on some well-worn old Cav edge hats. The felt wears down from excessive handling and the old marks reappear.

 

[tonyb]

Perhaps we should speak of the Cav edge in the past tense, on account of no one doing it anymore, at least not anyone I'm aware of. (Although Cav edge hats still exist, of course, so ... )
It's pretty cool, really, and hats with Cav edges are special for that reason alone. I baby mine.

 

[Jerekson]

Ah

Thanks for the help, both of you.

Indeed, this seems like a development; an overwelt without stitching, in essence. I can see why they are so highly thought of - that's quite a feat! It seems like it would be difficult to do.

Okay, thanks for the clarification, Tony - Cackle-

-J

 

[Brad Bowers]

I believe that an overwelted brim was refelted to fill in the stitch marks. (Was the stitiching actually removed beforehand? Brad?)
The process shows on some well-worn old Cav edge hats. The felt wears down from excessive handling and the old marks reappear.

The stitching was usually removed toward the end of the felting process, but could be left in to become part of the felt. Most manufacturers removed them, though.

Sadly, the Cavanagh Edge is pretty well extinct, but they can be made again, if a manufacturer wanted to take the time to relearn the process, and if there were a market for them. They add quite a bit to the cost. I'll bet if they could sell a couple thousand a year, maybe they'd do them again. Who knows?

I should be able to satisfy anyone's curiousity about them this year. I'm about finished writing an article on the history and manufacturing process of the Cavanagh Edge. I've got some hat bodies that show the various steps in the process, from sewing the initial welt on the cone, down to the finished edge - though the stitches were left in on that one, as these bodies were just for demonstration purposes for the article, and weren't designed to be finished out. They weren't even dyed, just left the natural rabbit color. These were probably the first Cavanagh Edges produced in the last three or four decades. For all I know, they may be the last ever produced, too.

Just need to find a publisher for the article!

Brad

 

[Andykev]

Cavanaugh edge

Don't forget to add: it is one of the best edges to a brim available (vintage).

You cannot, and modern hatters are unable, to duplicate this edge.

This edge, like most ribbon bindings, adds stiffness and shape to the snap of the brim. And you get it without the appearance of a ribbon edge (bound edge).

I have one Cavanaugh edged hat...it is a soft mocha brown...like a milky coffee.

I love it.

 

[Brad Bowers]

Don't forget to add: it is one of the best edges to a brim available (vintage).

You got that right! It's also the classiest and most elegant brim edge, in my book.

You cannot, and modern hatters are unable, to duplicate this edge.

It's not that they are unable. It's just that they are unwilling.

But, where there's a will...

Brad

 

[Feraud]

Here is a cav edge on my Duff.
It helps the brim maintain a firm shape and adds "snap".

 

[Rick Blaine]

MMMmm, Duff

 

[Andykev]

I shouldn't have said "CANT"

You got that right! It's also the classiest and most elegant brim edge, in my book.




It's not that they are unable. It's just that they are unwilling.

But, where there's a will...

Brad

Oh it is not that they cannot, I shouldn't have said that. You are right. They just don't because there is no market for it (today) and it is expensive and labor intensive to produce it.

MOST if not ALL hat bodies today are raw edge. Good hat shops or hatters bind the edge with ribbon. I have seen the "welted" edges where like the Cavanaugh edge, it is folded over or under (underwelt/overwelt), but it is sewn. Those still look very nice, if the sewing is done expertly. It just doesn't look as nice as the true felted edge.