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An Aero 'car coat' as first quality jacket?

JDelage

Familiar Face
Messages
92
All,

Please help me decide on my first Aero jacket (and first high end jacket, period). I’ve chosen to go with Aero because I live in Seattle and Thurston (in Seattle) can help me get the right fit.

I’m looking for something akin to a car coat, that I can wear with an untucked shirt, so I want a +/- 27" length. It’s going to be a mid-season jacket. At first glance, I think the Premier 1920’s Work Coat is the obvious candidate. I’m also curious about the Cheyenne and the Teamster. Any other obvious candidate? I’m indifferent wrt buttons or zipper.

As for the leather, I like the look of smooth vicenza of any shade except black (not a color…) as well as that of brown or cordovan FQHH Chromexecel. I especially look the marbled look you find on some CXL. I’m curious how much heavier & warmer the FQHH CXL might be compared to the Vicenza. As you may have heard, it sometimes rain in Seattle so how the leather & color react to the occasional rain drop is a factor (but this is not going to be the coat I reach for when it’s pouring).

I like the idea of babying a natural vicenza jacket, but I think it’s an advanced project. Also, as this is my first jacket, I might find I want to sell it in a year or two, so I want to keep it not too controversial. So cherry and natural are probably not the right colors here.

I’m a 45yr white guy, 5’9” and just under 180lbs. My P2P is around 20.5” and my shoulders are around 18.5”. Most RTW shirts are loose in the chest if they fit in the shoulders. I wear a size 40 suit but I could probably fit in a 42, depending. I wear denim pants most of the time, with the occasional chino or 5-pocket cords.

I'm looking for input on models, leather, and any custom mods people have liked or disliked.

Thank you.
 

JDelage

Familiar Face
Messages
92
Thank you. That's too much jacket for what I'm looking for this round. I'd like to stick to single breasted and 2 pockets (chest pocket OK).
 

Harris HTM

One Too Many
Messages
1,605
Location
the Netherlands
You're welcome! Regarding the warmth and weight of FQHH and Vicenza, as I own both: FQHH is heavier than Vicenza but I think the main noticeable difference is the (initial) stiffness: some people find FQHH uncomfortable, especially when new. Vicenza, by no way a lightweight or soft leather, is suppler from the beginning. As for warmth: it is the lining which is more important. Both leathers are equally warm (or cool).
 
Messages
15,319
Location
Chicago
If you are looking for a nice all around utility jacket the half belt styles are hard to beat and there are many to choose from... Can be dressed up or worn casually and look equally good both ways. If you are dead set on a button front style the Maxwell would be a nice choice IMHO. I've had both the 50's HB and the 30's HB and both were outstanding jackets but a bit too tame for my taste. Both were done in CXL FQHH black and midnight blue. I opted for a full action back on the 50's, shoulder gussets on the 30's. These were nice mods. False cuff/storm cuff on the 50's, leather lined button cuff on the 30's (I prefer the button cuff) I own a couple jackets in CXL steer cordovan. It's the nicest leather I've ever seen.
For weather resistance I feel the CXL will most certainly out perform the lighter Vicenza. CXL is oil and wax stuffed and damn near water proof. I'm not terribly fond of the Vicenza myself as I prefer the heavier weight and depth of color that CXL displays. It's a nice enough leather to be sure but if weather and specifically water is a concern I'd surely go with CXL.
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,794
Location
Iowa
Ok so I have a little different take on this topic. I would encourage you to talk to Carrie about the 30's Half Belt, and preferable in Steerhide. The Horween CXL Steer is a little heavier, breaks in easily, looks amazing and is tough as nails. Like CXL FQHH it softens up a lot after you have worn it 20 minutes or so. It would easily withstand whatever weather Seattle can dish out. I have a 30's Hb in Steer and it's my go-to for most "general" use. A bit longer than most jackets, and mine is basic black with black cotton drill lining. After 2 years, it has a lot of character and grain int he leather, and is very comfortable to wear all day. Only thing I'd do differently is to specify a little heavier zipper than stock, however this one was an off the rack purchase from Thurston when they still had their retail store. Now that I've owned it 2 years and wear a back pack quite a bit for work, I would also specify zippered sleeves too. Enjoy the search! :)
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,150
Location
Germany
Welome.

Leather and its thickness don't affect the warmth of a jacket. It's all about the lining.

Vicenca is more supple right out of the box, CLX FQHH takes weeks or months depending on how much you wear it to break in and become soft. I like the colour of the CLX better than the Vicenca but that's a question of personal taste. Both leathers will do fine with rain.

I own the Teamster and I am also 5'9" and 180 pound. You probably want a size 38 like I have (40" chest but Teamster runs big).

Go with inside pockets without studs.

The Cheyenne is a nice alternative, the handwarmer pockets are oddly positioned and uncomfortable to use though. Teamster pockets more comfortable.
 
Messages
15,319
Location
Chicago
Welome.

Leather and its thickness don't affect the warmth of a jacket. It's all about the lining.

Vicenca is more supple right out of the box, CLX FQHH takes weeks or months depending on how much you wear it to break in and become soft. I like the colour of the CLX better than the Vicenca but that's a question of personal taste. Both leathers will do fine with rain.

I own the Teamster and I am also 5'9" and 180 pound. You probably want a size 38 like I have (40" chest but Teamster runs big).

Go with inside pockets without studs.

The Cheyenne is a nice alternative, the handwarmer pockets are oddly positioned and uncomfortable to use though. Teamster pockets more comfortable.
That teamster of yours is one of my all time favorite jackets. It's gorgeous...you should throw a pic up here so @JDelage can see what that jacket is all about!
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,573
Location
Australia
I'd always get a softer, lighter leather for a longer jacket. I don't enjoy the feeling of FQHH - I find it uncomfortable and stiff even after years. I've had leather jackets for 30 years and for me a mid weight horse or goat is a better option.
 

Peter Bowden

Practically Family
Messages
593
Location
united kingdom
I am a fan of the Hudson.I find it to be a very versatile jacket and you wouldn't necessarily have to have an alpaca lining.My choice of hide would be the heavy crom-excel horsehide especially if it is to be your one and only.The Northeaster is similar but without a mouton collar as standard.
 

Stringmaster

One of the Regulars
Messages
248
I defer to the experts re the details but would only comment that I wouldn't order the jacket with the idea that you're going to flip it in a couple of years--go with something you really like and that suits you--staying more "conservative" is always a good choice IMO for the first--that's the way I went with my recently acquired first nice jacket (Aero). I would add that the fit you need may also narrow the choices--
 

JDelage

Familiar Face
Messages
92
Thanks. I do like the 30's HB but they seem a tad shorter to me, no?

No black and no front belt.
 

Cyber Lip

Practically Family
Messages
709
Location
Seattle
On a longer jacket I would go with Vicenza over CXL due to it being lighter weight. If I were in the market for a Aero 1920's work coat, I would definitely go Vicenza. If you plan on eventually owning a few jackets, my opinion is CXL for the shorter styles, and Vicenza for the longer. That's what I did. Although I did get a Board Racer in Vicenza, just because. One thing though...I live in Seattle also and CXL is better on a rainy day as it repels water better than Vicenza. I reach for one of my CXL jackets over one of my Vicenza jackets on rainy days.
 

ProteinNerd

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,803
Location
Sydney
I've had a Teamster, currently have a long Hercules half belt and just tried on a fit jacket for a Work Coat.

In all honestly, if you get the fit right (which Carrie at Thurston will be able to do for you) it just boils down to the look. The are all great longer coats.

The lining will determine how warm it is, not the leather choice.

I prefer Vicenza, but then again the Australian climate is more forgiving to a slightly lighter leather (not that Vicenza is light by any means, its juts not AS heavy as steer or FQHH).

You could always try a tumbled FQHH.....that is usually a touch lighter than regular FQHH and I'm pretty sure they will age the same.

Cordovan is gorgeous but brown is a better choice for a first jacket imo
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,794
Location
Iowa
So if you don't want black, but are oepn to cordovan or brown, there are good 30's HB's out there that might work. I'd encourage you to consider a used one as a first run, since it will likely be about 1/2 the price and won't loose much value in a year or two if taken care of. Also neither the 30's nor 50's HB's have a front belt.

I'm not familiar with the button-up options, in Iowa, it's just not very practical for us.
 

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