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An elusive detail of early 1900s mens fashion

filfoster

One Too Many
Turkey Dressing

Mysterious Mose said:
Mustafa Kemal Ataturk:
ataturk1.jpg


ataturk14vh7.jpg
That is one sharp-dressed Attaturk!
 

Evan Everhart

A-List Customer
Messages
457
Location
Hollywood, California
[QUOTE="Skeet" McD]Good on yez! And, if you do, I hope you'll show us the results, as worn and with the vest opened up so we can see the inside....

"Skeet"[/QUOTE]

I will most certainly do so, when I've had a new waist-coat made up for me! Thanks for the idea!
 

Anthony Jordan

Practically Family
Messages
674
Location
South Wales, U.K.
Unfortunately my page on this subject went down when Geocities closed, but, to quote myself:

"Two options seem to be canvassed for the origin and purpose of slips, one being that they are a vestige of the under-waistcoat popular during the Regency period in Britain, when I understand it was fashionable to wear a number of waistcoats one over the other, with each just showing. Another explanation is that the slips were designed to guard against non-fast dyes from black waistcoats bleeding onto the shirt front. They seem to have died out more or less by the Second World War, except amongst the diehards. They can still be seen worn with morning dress on rare occasions, sported by such persons as the Lord Lieutenant of Durham and, most recently, HRH Prince Charles."

Herewith some pictures:

Picture425.jpg
(Familiar?)

Picture426.jpg


Will try and find some better ones when I get home.
 

dhermann1

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,154
Location
Da Bronx, NY, USA
OK, how do you get the edges to fold over each other at the front, as if they were a separate garment? Does the edge just extend and you just tuck it under? If you had one made up, would it be a single piece of cloth folded over, with buttonholes put in? Is it made of the same material as the shirt?
 

Anthony Jordan

Practically Family
Messages
674
Location
South Wales, U.K.
When I get home I will post some pictures which should illuminate. In the meantime, yes, the free ends rest one over the other. The slip illustrated here is of two piece construction with a fairly pronounced rib effect that is quite stiff to the touch - a little like a linen canvas, perhaps.
 

boushi_mania

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
Location
Osaka, Japan
Interestingly enough, a waistcoat slip is not only common, but required for morning dress in Japan, when the waistcoat matches the jacket. (Dove-grey and buff waistcoats are apparently exempt from this feature.)

Come to think of it, Japanese cutaways are also always made with a link closure (don't remember what it's called, precisely; when the jacket is designed to button symmetrically, with two buttons showing), a feature I'd only read about before coming to Japan.
 

Wolfmanjack

Practically Family
Messages
547
boushi_mania said:
Interestingly enough, a waistcoat slip is not only common, but required for morning dress in Japan, when the waistcoat matches the jacket. (Dove-grey and buff waistcoats are apparently exempt from this feature.)

Come to think of it, Japanese cutaways are also always made with a link closure (don't remember what it's called, precisely; when the jacket is designed to button symmetrically, with two buttons showing), a feature I'd only read about before coming to Japan.

Do you have thrift shops in Japan? Seems like a good way to acquire a morning dress ensemble at an affordable price; although my size (44-46) might be hard to find.
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
boushi_mania said:
Interestingly enough, a waistcoat slip is not only common, but required for morning dress in Japan, when the waistcoat matches the jacket. (Dove-grey and buff waistcoats are apparently exempt from this feature.)

Come to think of it, Japanese cutaways are also always made with a link closure (don't remember what it's called, precisely; when the jacket is designed to button symmetrically, with two buttons showing), a feature I'd only read about before coming to Japan.



Aha! That explains this:


Marc Chevalier said:
There's a vintage clothing store in Burbank, California --"Junk for Joy"-- that used to import vintage Japanese menswear (ironic but true). They brought in a ton of Japanese inverness capes, morning coats, striped trousers and waistcoats. The waistcoats were mostly from the 1950s and '60s, but they all had white slips, which were buttoned onto mother-of-pearl buttons sewn on the inside edge of the vest.
 

"Skeet" McD

Practically Family
Messages
755
Location
Essex Co., Mass'tts
Belated Thanks....

Anthony Jordan said:
When I get home I will post some pictures which should illuminate. In the meantime, yes, the free ends rest one over the other. The slip illustrated here is of two piece construction with a fairly pronounced rib effect that is quite stiff to the touch - a little like a linen canvas, perhaps.

Dear Anthony,
Thank you so much for taking and posting these pictures. They are everything one could wish for. Pardon my taking such a long time to acknowledge your kindness...but the holidays combined with a good deal of snow-shoveling here in New England have conspired to undermine my best intentions.

Sincerely,
"Skeet"
 

Anthony Jordan

Practically Family
Messages
674
Location
South Wales, U.K.
[QUOTE="Skeet" McD]Dear Anthony,
Thank you so much for taking and posting these pictures. They are everything one could wish for. Pardon my taking such a long time to acknowledge your kindness...but the holidays combined with a good deal of snow-shoveling here in New England have conspired to undermine my best intentions.

Sincerely,
"Skeet"[/QUOTE]

You're very welcome! Here at my office in Cardiff its is snowing intermittently; when the heavier flakes are coming down the effect is rather charming - reminiscent of being inside a snow globe!
 

"Skeet" McD

Practically Family
Messages
755
Location
Essex Co., Mass'tts
Anthony Jordan said:
You're very welcome! Here at my office in Cardiff its is snowing intermittently; when the heavier flakes are coming down the effect is rather charming - reminiscent of being inside a snow globe!

Ahhhhh....and now you're making me think of the charming 1980s filming of A Child's Christmas in Wales!

"Skeet"
 

B. Kleinsteuber

New in Town
Messages
7
Location
Wellington Ontario
It's A Wonderful Life (1946)

Stewarts rival in the movie wears a vest slip in every scene he is featured in. He must have been one of the die hards that wouldn't give up that nice little added touch. Applause to anyone who has, or will have this nice accessory :eusa_clap .
 

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