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Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Khilij, Oct 12, 2021.
Holy smokes, wherever did you get that two-tone???
Nice jacket huh? JL masterpiece.
After close examination of a “new” (within a year) batch of comp weight vs. old batch. I’m seeing very little difference in the two hides. I suspect as jmax alluded, the variance can come down to an individual jacket. I ordered a model b deluxe from TB and the hide was awful. It was essentially oiled rubber. This is nothing like that. It’s far stiffer, pores are evident, and it smells like comp weight. Some comparison photos. All the remains is to break the Oxford 9D in.
Thanks - definitely enough of a difference to justify one in each. (To my eye, anyhow. The wife might not agree. ).
My last dance with Vanson (circa 2016?) went kinda like this. The comp weight had some controversy surrounding it at the time. I first ordered a model E in a size 48. The hide was pretty good on that one, I posted pics somewhere of that one. @JMax recommended to size down for m/c use and he was right. I sent the "decent" hide back for a size 46. The fit was MUCH better, but the jacket was made out of Flex Seal!! The fit was great and I was hoping the jacket would get better with time. Not the case.
It was like the jacket was sprayed with Flex Seal for a top coat. I even put the jacket in the washing machine and ran it through a cold water cycle and put it in the drier on air fluff. No change in the hide at all. I was so disappointed in the rubbery model E, I gave it to my brother and told him if he didn't want it, just drop it off at Goodwill. He asked me "is this even leather?"
I hate to say it Ton, But I really don't think that model B will ever evolve into some of the LEGENDARY E's that you had in the past. And your right sleeve looks like it wasn't sewn on that great. I had the same thing with my model E. The sleeve had some "puckering" going on.
I am talking strictly hide quality, not patterns or construction. I would have to put the new hides at the bottom of the barrel. Even below the pics of the 5* leathers for around $350. I think that "old guy," "hand waxing" each hide is long gone.
You are right about the sleeve pucker. I noticed that too but it’s already starting to flatten out a bit. I have to disagree about the hide. It’s certainly more porous (visible pores) than the older hides but not by much. With even a days worth of wear and the spray bottle of water the high gloss is dulling down. If I really wanted to expedite it, I could lightly run over it with rubbing alcohol, but I’m not in a hurry. I actually believe the comp weight is back, maybe not to it’s full glory, but certainly improved, over the last example I had. I suppose only time will tell!
Your story could've been mine; I was about to post a similar experience I've had with my last Model A, bought brand new sometime in 2019 I think it was, also from TB, and looking at the photos, especially the zoomed in side-strap detail, it looks to have been from the exact same hide @ton312's new jacket. Which is why I can't imagine how the Model B Deluxe from TB must've looked like.
In any case, while there wasn't anything wrong with the jacket (on the contrary) and admittedly, it did look good, especially on the photos, I honestly couldn't get rid of it fast enough and it wasn't a decision I came to lightly. Took me weeks to accept my dislike of the jacket as I've been thru just about every bit of reasoning to force myself into liking it. Wanted to quit piling up on jackets at the time and just settle with something I knew was a good piece, which Mod. A is.
Either way, the jacket was exactly like that, with gigantic follicles showing under the thick coat of dye - Not saying that's what Ton's new jacket is but the detail pic & the absence of grain of any kind all remind me of it.
It could be just that I've never had a Vanson like that. Ever! It was day and night compared to the beautiful, premium leather they'd used. I mean, look at this!
That is a stunning example of what Vanson used to be. Amazing. Wish I could go back in time and scoop up some model E's in a few different sizes.
The TB leathers (bainbridge & Vancouver) for Vanson are really nice, although they are about an ounce thinner than the comp weight. I have 1 each in blue and dark maple bainbridge and a dark hickory Vancouver on order. Heard the Vancouver is a little heavier than the bainbridge.
In Napoli sleeve puckering is considered a quality trait lol.
But that’s exactly it, right?! Vanson still has a dedicated fan base, but for 3-5 years nobody really likes their house leathers anymore. Sure, you can spec a Vanson with third party leathers, and it will come out great. Essentially Vanson has always been Competition weight black. Just like Aero essentially equals Horween CXL. That equation doesn’t work anymore.
I love everything about my Chopper (ca. 7 years old and bought via TB). It’s the one jacket that gets me comments left and right when I wear it. Most of them positive or at least awestruck. But the leather is underwhelming to say the least. I have worn it hard. I mean really hard. When I bought it, I only had one other leather jacket. To this day, I take it as my only non-plastic jacket when I go on skiing trips. The leather: is virtually unchanged. Like a huge heap of vinyl.
Seeing the pictures of what it could have been is quite painful, I have to say.
Some good examples of CW can be of the smooth variety , some can be pebbled and grainy ( post # 23 ) , some lightly pebbled w/smooth areas …kind of mixed.
None should have obvious large pores. That’s a sure sign of heavy correction ( sanding ) !! Today’s CW has definitely become a hit or miss situation …
I must be one of the lucky vanson owners, my 4 jackets are all superb fit & comp weight with amazing grain. & won't ever be moved on.
What years are those from if you know ?
I suppose the newer stuff won’t be to everyone’s liking but after 30 Vanson jackets, some of which were produced back in the late 70’s, I certainly don’t dislike this hide. There’s been better and there’s been worse. I can definitely wear this stuff though!
From roughly 2006 to 2019,,theres pics on what makes a vanson thread.
The Definition of Top Grain Cowhide ( which is what Vanson claim’s to use ) is a very wide ranging one and hard to nail down.
You could have a quality hide that requires minor buffing or very light sanding. Or a poor quality hide that needs a heck of a lot of sanding ( hence large pores ) and they both fall into the category of Top Grain.
I had a Vason Mark II I purchased used and then put 10 years of riding time use on. By the time I retired from riding the hide had lots of graining like your old comp jacket although no loose stitching or obvious top failure. The hide did loosen up over the years. I have no experience with Vanson's resent comp. The old comp was rain resistant
how is the maple bainbridge breaking in and aging? Looks like beautiful stuff from what I’ve seen on the TB site, never seen it in the wild, or even here that I can recall.
I’ve had this on so many jackets that at this point it means nothing to me. Unless it’s pirate shirt level.