Anyone ever send a Jacket back to Filson's for "re-proofing" etc?

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Worf, Aug 9, 2013.

  1. Worf

    Worf I'll Lock Up

    Troy, New York, USA
    Hey folks, I scored a vintage Filson 435 Shelter Cloth Waterfowl coat. It's in great shape and look marvelous BUT today when I went outside in the rain she sucked up water like a thirsty elephant! She needs re-proofing bad so I've a few questions.

    1. Has anyone ever re-oiled their Filson by hand themselves?

    2. If so how did it turn out?

    3. Any tips or hints?

    4. Anyone sent their jacket back to Seattle for "the treatment"?

    5. Was it worth it and do you recommend it?

    Thanks in advance folks

  2. Boyo

    Boyo One Too Many

    Long Island NY
    I say take a stab at doing it yourself.. the cans of "oil" are easy to work with, you can't really screw it it up. Start with a small area work in the oil and use a blow dryer to set it in the fabric, continue until done.
  3. Fanch

    Fanch I'll Lock Up

    I have re-waxed a couple of hats. Rather than re-wax an entire jacket, the Filson expert told me to re-wax only the seams since that is where the water tends to seep through.
  4. I have seen that some of the vendors carry the re-proofing "stuff" so it seems that many are doing it on their own. I'll bet there are directions and even tutorials on You-tube as to some "How To DO It" Videos.
  5. coloradorider

    coloradorider One of the Regulars

    Denver, CO
    I've reproofed a tin cloth jacket several times. It's very easy to do yourself but time consuming - check out this YouTube video since it's exactly the technique I use. I've never completely stripped the wax from one of my Filson waxed jackets so I've only focused on the areas that are a little thin on wax and the seams. I actually melt the wax for doing the seams so I really get good wax penetration. I let the wax get a little more consistency before rubbing into the fabric and blow drying (buy a heat gun if you don't want to mess around with a blow dryer).


    2. If so how did it turn out? Fantastic and the jacket develops it own patina - tin cloth will exaggerate this since it starts out lighter and can show more character.

    3. Any tips or hints? Melt the wax for the seams, don't forget to heat the jacket after it's waxed to even the finish and allow the wax to settle, and work methodically because it's easy to miss spots.
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2013
  6. winterland1

    winterland1 Practically Family

    I would contact Filson. They have great customer service and would probably know the best approach.
  7. Xenophon

    Xenophon One of the Regulars

    I haven't ever reproofed a Filson for the simple reason that I don't own one but did try reproofing once on an old Fjällräven trekking jacket (sqme process). It's not hard to do and the result was good but it takes a lot of time and I found it tedious and extremely icky. Nowadays I'd just send it in and have them take care of it but my disposable income is fortunately higher than in my student years, which is when I reproofed the Fjällräven
  8. Pinhead

    Pinhead One of the Regulars

    Does "re-oiling" make the jacket stiffer or softer?

    I purchased an Outback oilskin duster at the thrift shop for pocket change. It was brand new and still had a packet in the pocket with spare snaps and little repair patches.

    Being new, it is very stiff. After I wear it (usually camping. It ALWAYS rains when you are camping!), I'll hang it on a big wooden hanger in the sun to dry it out. After it sits in the sun a while, it will become very soft.

    If I went through the re-oiling process on a near-new coat would it end up just as stiff as it is now, or would it become softer?

    I LOVE this jacket.

    (I've been considering buying the hood that snaps onto the jacket but that would interfere with the coolness I achieve whilst wearing my Real Deal Brazil hat with it.)
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2013
  9. coloradorider

    coloradorider One of the Regulars

    Denver, CO
    If you follow the procedure in the video above the jacket will be stiff like new after waxing. It will soften up immediately in flex areas with wear. The highly flexed and dry areas on the jacket are all that needs to be touched up annually. Putting the jacket in the sun is a good way to make sure the wax is spread out evenly.
  10. Todd V

    Todd V Familiar Face

    I reproofed my Tin Cruiser using a tin of the Filson wax (which didn't go very far) and a large tin of the Barbour wax. It wasn't very difficult just time consuming. I did find that if I applied too much wax it was difficult to get it to "flow" using the hair dryer. But that extra wax drys off with time. Next time I will probably send it to New England reproofers as their fee is quite reasonable. Still I'm glad to have tried it once!

    Good luck!
  11. Chasseur

    Chasseur Call Me a Cab

    Not a Filson but I have a couple of French hunting coats that are the oiled/waxed cotton like a Barbor. I've re-proofed them before.

    One heretical method I use that was recommended by some French hunting buddies that is easy: spread out the re-proofing gunk roughly all over the jacket especially seams etc. Then stick it in an old pillow case that you no longer want and tie it up snug. Then throw it in the dryer at a low temp. They come out rather nice after this and its minimal time/hassle.
  12. blazerbud

    blazerbud One of the Regulars

    Chattanooga, TN
    I have reproofed mine. A tin cloth work jacket at about 15 years of use, using Filson wax 1st time, then sno seal about 5 years later.

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