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Edward

Bartender
Messages
23,424
Location
London, UK
^

Great post! Very informative.

I’d love to know more about the early-80s city (Leeds and Camden, etc) market jackets. Every post-punk band you see from the era has that same jacket - basically a LL 402 in sheep or maybe thin/soft cow with the sleeve zipper on the bicep. Looks like they had a lifespan of no more than a year before falling apart.


Frustratingly, when it comes to those sort of jackets, manufacturing was typically outsourced (from the UK, this was usually then, as is still often the case now, to factories in Bangladesh and especially for leather Pakistan), and batches rolled through under all sorts of ever-changing brand names. Some of the were quite decent, though my experience has always been that you might have to go through a few that were ostensibly the same to find the really good one among a bunch that varied from decent to bad via indifferent. It's always possible you might spot one kicking around second hand places in cities where they were popular, though given variable quality of manufacture, the survival rate also varies significantly. The nature of disposable fashion, I fear.... The bicep-based extra zip-pocket is an interesting little quirk. In part doubtless a notion that it would nod to without being too much like the Lewis jackets. (Lewis first added the forearm pocket to the Twin Track Bronx in 1966, before rolling it out across much of the line thereafter.)

The originals you mention probably were either lamb or low-end cowhide. Lamb has long been common in fashion jackets of this ilk in the UK - cheaper, and, crucially, thinner, lighter and easier to sew, thus bringing down the unit cost markedly. In my experience cowhide was always more common for these 'biker' styles, at least those made for men, though again for those built down to a price, quality varied significantly. Still, chances are of you can find one that has survived this long, it's likely fairly decent...
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
23,424
Location
London, UK
Not looking for a replica with studs, I can do that myself (That’s part of the fun after all), just looking for the base model. Thanks for the suggestions, the links you sent are both pretty good contenders, I think if I’m going to jump through the hoops of buying from a japanese seller, it had better be of a pretty good quality, similar to the jacket in the four quadrants image I posted. If I don’t manage to find much of anything else I’ll likely settle for something of lesser quality

Here's one on eBay now that looks very close to my eye - not quite perfect, but very close:


1660402526569.png


It's very much on the small side, though (beware the eBay numpties who think that a jacket works like trousers, and so list the pit to pit measurement as chest size...). Still, might be worth combing the auction for pics and such if it's too small for you. Doesn't seem to be any branding information, which is a shame - though again, not surprising given the nature of the beast.
 

Al 916

A-List Customer
Messages
471
Location
GB
Sure :]

First attachment (brown) is the OG vanson cw from a jacket from the late 90s.
Second attachment is CW from a Vanson Remington from the early 2000s. @torfjord 's C2 jacket he posted about the past few days is probably from this era/batch of CW. So yeah, even his great looking jacket is "not looking as it used to look"-cw from an early 2000s perspective.
Third attachment is from my 2014 America jacket.
Fourth one is from a 2018ish America jacket
Fifth one is a 2021 modern oh so terrible CW jacket.
Sixth one is the super heavy spring-like unbreakable CW from a jacket made in 2016.

As you can see, there has never been "one" competition weight hide. It's a term used for whatever hide they could source at any given time and there has always been differences. And as you can see, pic #5 is closer in resemble to the OG stuff than #2-4 and as for #6, you don't want to wear that even if you argued it looked close to #1 as well. It's all cw, it's all tough as nails hide, you may subjectively prefer one to the other, but there is no such thing as decline in quality, these differences from batch to batch have been there for decades.

Trying to see were my A come into that line up. Three or four?

_20220713_173111.JPG
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,077
Location
Germany
Trying to see were my A come into that line up. Three or four?

View attachment 444526
Visually, I'd put it with #3, my America jacket from 2014. Then again, it could be yet another batch from another year. As I have tried to visualize, there has always been fluctuation in appearance of CW over the years. Leather is a natural product, no two hides look the same and both tanneries and manufacturers have to work with what they can source.
 

Peckinpah

New in Town
Messages
39
Location
Glasgow, Scotland
Hi all,

Getting the itch to order another Aero jacket and have been jumping between going for a biker jacket or the Hooch Hauler. Lately I have been leaning more heavily towards a biker jacket, specifically the "Type J-106" and "Indian Ranger".

I am curious to know, if requesting having the belt removed would be normal for a biker jacket? Or is it something I should keep? I'd definitely like to have it without epaulettes and don't think those are necessary to the overall look of this specific jacket, but unsure regarding the belt and loops.

The Indian Ranger, I have noticed the belt doesn't go all the way around which I think looks a lot better. However, would removing the epaulettes from the Indian Ranger be considered sacrilege to such an iconic jacket? I do actually prefer the front design of the Indian Ranger with the placement of the zips.

The two compared, which would be the better jacket to go for?

EDIT: I noticed on the site, Aero doesn't give the option for Tumbled Black FQHH for the Indian Ranger, is this just an oversight on the website, or would Aero refuse to construct the jacket this way?

Thanks!
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
23,424
Location
London, UK
Hi all,

Getting the itch to order another Aero jacket and have been jumping between going for a biker jacket or the Hooch Hauler. Lately I have been leaning more heavily towards a biker jacket, specifically the "Type J-106" and "Indian Ranger".

I am curious to know, if requesting having the belt removed would be normal for a biker jacket? Or is it something I should keep? I'd definitely like to have it without epaulettes and don't think those are necessary to the overall look of this specific jacket, but unsure regarding the belt and loops.

The Indian Ranger, I have noticed the belt doesn't go all the way around which I think looks a lot better. However, would removing the epaulettes from the Indian Ranger be considered sacrilege to such an iconic jacket? I do actually prefer the front design of the Indian Ranger with the placement of the zips.

The two compared, which would be the better jacket to go for?

EDIT: I noticed on the site, Aero doesn't give the option for Tumbled Black FQHH for the Indian Ranger, is this just an oversight on the website, or would Aero refuse to construct the jacket this way?

Thanks!

As ever, the best way to get an answer on this would be to drop Aero a line. They generally do recommend specific leathers for particular designs, though unless they consider a particular leather to be markedly unsuitable (I know the really heavy CXL steer is considered not to be a good choice for a lot of halfbelt designs with pleated backs), it may be a question of availability. I believe during the pandemic there was a delay in Horween shipments to the UK, which had a knock on for a while.

As to J106 v Indian Ranger.... really, it depends whether you want a D pocket or something more akin to a Perfecto type. The J106 would involve less modification for what you want as standard, I think, given the belt on that is a separate and removable piece by design (though you might by the sound of it want to ask for the belt loops to be removed if the aim is a very 'clean' look at the bottom). If you definitely want a D pocket with a cleaner / more utilitarian look over all, it might also be worth (assuming desired adaptations permissible) looking at either the King of the Road (no upper, horizontal pocket, just the D) or the Elvis (coin pocket on front of the D removed).

Best move might be to figure out exactly what you have in mind, then speak to Aero about what deviations from standard are available, and which model they suggest is the best base to get to what you want.
 

Canuck Panda

One Too Many
Messages
1,936
Hi all,

Getting the itch to order another Aero jacket and have been jumping between going for a biker jacket or the Hooch Hauler. Lately I have been leaning more heavily towards a biker jacket, specifically the "Type J-106" and "Indian Ranger".

I am curious to know, if requesting having the belt removed would be normal for a biker jacket? Or is it something I should keep? I'd definitely like to have it without epaulettes and don't think those are necessary to the overall look of this specific jacket, but unsure regarding the belt and loops.

The Indian Ranger, I have noticed the belt doesn't go all the way around which I think looks a lot better. However, would removing the epaulettes from the Indian Ranger be considered sacrilege to such an iconic jacket? I do actually prefer the front design of the Indian Ranger with the placement of the zips.

The two compared, which would be the better jacket to go for?

EDIT: I noticed on the site, Aero doesn't give the option for Tumbled Black FQHH for the Indian Ranger, is this just an oversight on the website, or would Aero refuse to construct the jacket this way?

Thanks!
Aerofan here has an Indian Ranger in CXL. The only one I've seen in the CXL leather. Must be a special one off. I had one in Jerky and now in Vicenza. The softer hides will work better with the Indian Ranger pattern. This is also the only Aero jacket that they don't allow any customization I believe.
I've also got the Daytona which is the same as the J106 pattern but different D pocket and no epaulettes. This pattern is a lot easier to wear, like normal 50s half belts. Pattern works well with CXL leather.
MrProper has a customized J106 Ridley slimfit. A highly customized version of the Aero slim fit motorcycle jacket. Maybe he can chime in, this would seem to be what you are going for. Check his photos and his posts on his jacket.
 

Asinyne

New in Town
Messages
19
I’m trying to figure out the sizing for the armhole (armscye) on a custom jacket, and I don’t know if I’m measuring correctly on the jackets I’m basing my numbers off of. Do you measure straight across from point of shoulder to pit? If so that’s telling me ~9”

I have 18” circumference around my pit/shoulder and I want a fairly small/high armhole for ease of movement, but I also want it comfortable. Is 10” (20”) enough, or should I bump it to 10.5” (21”)? Could I go smaller than that or would that start getting too tight?

This is my final hurdle before I place my custom order, so any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,077
Location
Germany
I’m trying to figure out the sizing for the armhole (armscye) on a custom jacket, and I don’t know if I’m measuring correctly on the jackets I’m basing my numbers off of. Do you measure straight across from point of shoulder to pit? If so that’s telling me ~9”

I have 18” circumference around my pit/shoulder and I want a fairly small/high armhole for ease of movement, but I also want it comfortable. Is 10” (20”) enough, or should I bump it to 10.5” (21”)? Could I go smaller than that or would that start getting too tight?

This is my final hurdle before I place my custom order, so any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Ease of movement is more than just size of armhole. In fact I would argue it even more depends on how the sleeve is attached to the body and whether you have a back or underarm gussets. I would be wary of going overly tight in the armhole area.. it can really destroy the wearing comfort when a jacket is pinching you in the armpit all the time and you can barely squeeze your arms into the sleeve when you are wearing a thicker sweatshirt.
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,077
Location
Germany
https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/b1059057312

I finally pulled the trigger on this Flat Head deerskin since the USD:Yen conversion is so favorable right now. The listing says the lining is dirty (looks clean to me, but who knows) so what is the best way of cleaning a lining like this? Steamer? Take it to a dry cleaner?
careful with taking an expensive leather jacket to a dry cleaner. thats like bringing your 1500 dollar japanese kitchen knife to the local shop for sharpening. can go well, can be a complete desaster. i would air it out for a few days if its just smell. if its visible dirt, id handwash it, probably start with just trying to dab it with a wet cloth and if that brought no success, carefully handwash it, first without any soap, then with something mild that doesnt harm the leather.
 

ducttapecoder

New in Town
Messages
9
Has anyone added a removable/detachable lining to a leather jacket? I'm thinking of adding a lightweight Lochcarron to make an Aero Bootlegger more lively and wearable during winter.
 

Canuck Panda

One Too Many
Messages
1,936
Has anyone added a removable/detachable lining to a leather jacket? I'm thinking of adding a lightweight Lochcarron to make an Aero Bootlegger more lively and wearable during winter.
You can ask but I don't think that's what Aero do. That's why there's the Thedi brand, and on the other specturm, Vanson. However, it seems that Aero is starting to incorporate more features like Thedi's on their newer models. Still I doubt they will do it. I haven't seen an Aero with horizontal inside pockets, I doubt the "modern" removable vest feature will be allowed.
 

Hh121

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,988
I asked them to make a detachable mouton collar and the answer is no. I know they used to do that, can't figure out why they not doing that no more.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,934
You can ask but I don't think that's what Aero do. That's why there's the Thedi brand, and on the other specturm, Vanson. However, it seems that Aero is starting to incorporate more features like Thedi's on their newer models. Still I doubt they will do it. I haven't seen an Aero with horizontal inside pockets, I doubt the "modern" removable vest feature will be allowed.
They did make them in the past :

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...g-and-detachable-mouton-collar-c-38-42.92723/
 

Lorinz

New in Town
Messages
9
Hi, I recently purchased a brand new leather jacket, and due to it being expensive I'd want to be sure I take extra good care of it(plus I'm paranoid about this sort of thing with clothing anyway). I got a little bit of soup on it at dinner, a small amount comparable to a few sprinkles of rain or something, and I immediately wiped it off with a napkin. I wanted to know, do I need to do anything extra in terms of cleaning it or is it fine? I don't see any stains or anything from where the sprinkles of soup spilled, it all looks normal to me. Am I good or is there anything else I should do to clean it? Also for future reference, is there any situation something like that could be dangerous to the jacket, or would you simply scrub it off? Thanks.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
23,424
Location
London, UK
You can ask but I don't think that's what Aero do. That's why there's the Thedi brand, and on the other specturm, Vanson. However, it seems that Aero is starting to incorporate more features like Thedi's on their newer models. Still I doubt they will do it. I haven't seen an Aero with horizontal inside pockets, I doubt the "modern" removable vest feature will be allowed.

Generally Aero will discuss mods (at an appropriate cost), but they won't do anything that would involve a redraft on the pattern, as that would obviously take them into a whole different business model. I'd be surprised if they were up for the particular mod in question, though - it's a very modern concept, and Aero has a very specific design aesthetic, with pre-1960 aesthetics and construction in mind. The removable vest thing isn't something I've seen in any jacket much before the 70s; aside from the Schott-style G1/A2 hybrids, I don't recall seeing it much at all on leathers outside of dedicated motorcycle gear. That said, it's not a feature I like or have gone looking for. I have a couple of trenchcoats with it, and for all the hassle of removing, storing, and otherwise dealing with a separate lining, I've long preferred just to leave it in place, treat them as cool weather options, and have a different, lighter coat for warmer weather. Granted, though, I can see why folks might want to have the flexibility if they want to or of necessity need to stick to one jacket.

I asked them to make a detachable mouton collar and the answer is no. I know they used to do that, can't figure out why they not doing that no more.

It's something Aero briefly did around the tail end of the Lauder era management. After Will Lauder left/ was shown the door and went off to Alexander Leathers, as was (now Simmonds Bilt) (this was before the information and the bust that led to the crimial trial all came out), Ken returned to the factory full time for a few years to get things sorted and deal with a lot of problems that had arisen under prior mismanagement. One of the things cut was the then fairly new detachable mouton collar option. Ken was quite open that he wasn't happy with the design and functionality, and didn't want anything going out the door of the factory that he wasn't happy having the Aero name on. Same thinking as behind the end of the "anything goes" approach to customer modifications.
 

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