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jeo

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Riu

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Is there any way the bi-swing back can be fixed?

From one of my previous experiences with a custom maker I was left among other things with a jacket with a bi-swing back that's not working and the leather will stay like that.

I took it to a leather alterations place and they said it's got an elastic band and they can look into that to find out why is not working.

Anybody has got a similar problem and did you fix it?

IMG_81191.jpg

IMG_81581.jpg
 

jeo

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Does anyone besides for Lost Worlds and Freewheeler do a Leathertogs B style jacket?

I know Himel does something similar with the Chevalier, but I can’t think of/find any else.

Just came across this on IG from Masterfilm. Doesn't look like its part of their lineup just yet but seems to be in the works. Maybe you can look into them as well.

https://m.masterfilm.co.kr/

Screen Shot 2021-01-26 at 4.00.43 PM.png
Screen Shot 2021-01-26 at 4.00.52 PM.png
 

56DeSoto

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What are y'all's thoughts on picking up a crosszip with a missing belt? I'm eyeing a sub-$100 Branded Garments double rider style. It has the zip liner intact, but the belt is missing. The measurements seem like it would fit me pretty well, but I'll have to resell if it shows up and doesn't work out. How big a deal is the missing belt?
 

navetsea

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6,119
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East Java
Is there any way the bi-swing back can be fixed?

From one of my previous experiences with a custom maker I was left among other things with a jacket with a bi-swing back that's not working and the leather will stay like that.

I took it to a leather alterations place and they said it's got an elastic band and they can look into that to find out why is not working.

Anybody has got a similar problem and did you fix it?

View attachment 304463
View attachment 304464
the gusset is too shallow, ideally it should not allow the bottom seam to ever get pulled out like that from its own pocket even at full stretch, I never have elastic installed on my gussets, but I asked for much deeper gusset with deeper curved bottom, so as long as the bottom dont get pulled out like that it will sort itself back into its normal position when not stretched.
 
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Riu

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703
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the gusset is too shallow, ideally it should not allow the bottom seam to ever get pulled out like that from its own pocket even at full stretch, I never have elastic installed on my gussets, but I asked for much deeper gusset with deeper curved bottom, so as long as the bottom dont get pulled out like that it will sort itself back into its normal position when not stretched.

Thank you for the explanation. I had a feeling they messed it up, tried to get in touch with them after receiving the jacket but no replies obviously.
 

navetsea

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Thank you for the explanation. I had a feeling they messed it up, tried to get in touch with them after receiving the jacket but no replies obviously.
just me guessing, I'm not sure it is indeed the case in yours, can also be if the jacket is a bit snug around the chest so it has no room for the gusset to tuck in as your shoulder blade is pressing against it from the inside, and the gusset is prolapsed and stuck there and develop creases and then it always stuck there because the creases is already set that way.
 

Marc mndt

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5,403
How does this back length look on me?
View attachment 304564 View attachment 304565
Imo, the back length looks spot on for the style. I don't think a halfbelt should be any longer. That is if you prefer to wear it like they did back in the days.
F0F7C893-CBEA-44C8-945D-98F4AE3D3682.jpeg


Standard length of the above Hercules was 25.5'. But extra long sizes were available too.

I know @HoosierDaddy thinks your's is too short, but that's because he likes to wear his jackets longer :)

HD (left) and I ( right) have the same Thedi jacket. Mine is much shorter in body and sleeve length. Long story short. It's all about personal preference.
A5D6BCF4-3EF7-4E35-99A6-73201BCBF815.jpeg
 

Marc mndt

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Does anyone besides for Lost Worlds and Freewheeler do a Leathertogs B style jacket?

I know Himel does something similar with the Chevalier, but I can’t think of/find any else.

RRL made one a couple of years ago. (Just saying they made one, I'm not recommending it :))
450364809.jpg
 

Riu

Practically Family
Messages
703
Location
UK
just me guessing, I'm not sure it is indeed the case in yours, can also be if the jacket is a bit snug around the chest so it has no room for the gusset to tuck in as your shoulder blade is pressing against it from the inside, and the gusset is prolapsed and stuck there and develop creases and then it always stuck there because the creases is already set that way.

You might be right about the snug part, I only wore a few hours as I didn't like how it behaved. Could also be the lining as I have asked for a quilted lining and they've used thick felt.

To me it seems that the design it just doesn't work, I asked them if they could make it with a bi-swing back and they said no problem but probably I should have just went for a simple design.
 

Seb Lucas

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7,573
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Australia
Imo, the back length looks spot on for the style. I don't think a halfbelt should be any longer. That is if you prefer to wear it like they did back in the days.
View attachment 304599

Standard length of the above Hercules was 25.5'. But extra long sizes were available too.

I know @HoosierDaddy thinks your's is too short, but that's because he likes to wear his jackets longer :)

HD (left) and I ( right) have the same Thedi jacket. Mine is much shorter in body and sleeve length. Long story short. It's all about personal preference.
View attachment 304600

It is personal preference. Good point. To me the period photos always make the jackets look longer. Must be the high rise pants. Notice too the back length of jackets is marked as 25.5 inches. Given the average guy would have been around five nine, that is a pretty long jacket, surely?

Often the period look for a half-belts has the jacket come over the belt and well below the back pockets, owing to high trousers. For me, the closest look to that (without dressing in costume) is wearing the pants mid rise and the jacket a little longer. Unlike some I do not think it interferes with some Aristotelian notion of proportions. :D

Either way, like HD I prefer the longer look.
 
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Marc mndt

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5,403
To me the period photos always make the jackets look longer. Must be the high rise pants.

I thought the jackets worn back in the days were relatively short. I used these photos for inspiration when I had Field Leathers make a half belt for me. I wanted my jacket to have this thirties look.
halfbelt.jpg


About the average height. I thought that men today are a lot taller than they were back in the thirties. Turns out that is not the case.

According to the most recent study I could find (2018) the average height of an American male is 69.1 inches (175.4 centimeters), which is exactly the same average height as back in 1931.

height.png


Long story short.

Go short if you like the 30's look. Go longer if you like a more contemporary look (which compliments low rise pants).
 
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15,685
I thought the jackets worn back in the days were relatively short. I used these photos for inspiration when I had Field Leathers make a half belt for me. I wanted my jacket to have this thirties look.
View attachment 304609

About the average length. I thought that men today are a lot taller than they were back in the thirties. Turns out that is not the case.

According to the most recent study I could find (2018) the average height of an American male is 69.1 inches (175.4 centimeters), which is exactly the same average height as back in 1931.

View attachment 304611

Long story short.

Go short if you like the 30's look. Go longer if you like a more contemporary look (which compliments low rise pants).

I'm glad to see this study. I've been listening to nonsense about people being shorter in the 50's, hence all the old jackets are this short, all over the internet and I knew it's just that, nonsense. People might become an inch taller in about one thousand years but for now, we're good with whatever length the jackets used to be during the 50's.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
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5,403
I'm glad to see this study. I've been listening to nonsense about people being shorter in the 50's, hence all the old jackets are this short, all over the internet and I knew it's just that, nonsense. People might become an inch taller in about one thousand years but for now, we're good with whatever length the jackets used to be during the 50's.

Unless you're Dutch :D

Dutch men were definitively shorter in the 30's and 50's.
upload_2021-1-27_13-10-43.png
 

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