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(Another) crease question (yes, I've seen many of the threads here about creases): How do I make those REALLY defined creases? Mine always come out rounded and I just can't get the "folded" crease look, where it's SHARP. If anyone can help or steer me right ...


What felt are you starting with? Thin dense felt is needed to get really sharp creases.
 

belfastboy

I'll Lock Up
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8,580
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vancouver, canada
(Another) crease question (yes, I've seen many of the threads here about creases): How do I make those REALLY defined creases? Mine always come out rounded and I just can't get the "folded" crease look, where it's SHARP. If anyone can help or steer me right ...
If that type of tight crease is in a modern mid quality felt it likely was not hand formed but done in a factory with lots of steam and a hydraulic press.
 

John the Swede

Familiar Face
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78
What felt are you starting with? Thin dense felt is needed to get really sharp creases.
Right now, I'm working with Akubras - two Campdrafts.
If that type of tight crease is in a modern mid quality felt it likely was not hand formed but done in a factory with lots of steam and a hydraulic press.
This gives me a thought: Could I iron the creases?
 

belfastboy

I'll Lock Up
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8,580
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Right now, I'm working with Akubras - two Campdrafts.

This gives me a thought: Could I iron the creases?
I would shy away from ironing the creases. First try giving it a good spritz with water and then with a handheld steamer give it copious amounts of steam over a small area. Steam will render the felt softer and more malleable. Crease small areas at a time...the felt will want to relax and revert but keep working it. You may, with lots of time and attention, get the felt to do what you want.
 

Mysfit

New in Town
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10
I am sure that this has been addressed somewhere but I cannot find it. What does the fraction only size indicate...a 6 and or a 7 and...I have looked at a couple hats with fractions only but did not pull the trigger because I was not sure. The hats I looked at were advertised with length and width measurements only. In all cases I asked the seller for a circumference measurement but got no response. Open roads and stratoliners primarily. I called Stetson and the other two hat shops where I made purchases in the past (JJ Hat and Henri-Henri in Montreal) but no one could provide the answer.
 

johnnycanuck

Call Me a Cab
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(Another) crease question (yes, I've seen many of the threads here about creases): How do I make those REALLY defined creases? Mine always come out rounded and I just can't get the "folded" crease look, where it's SHARP. If anyone can help or steer me right ...
Any pictures of what you have in mind? Unless a vintage hat, a lot of “sharp” creases get there over time. Rain storms and man handling.

There is a technique I learned with old scout hats that may work but let me know what you have in mind and I may be able to give you better direction.
Johnny
 

belfastboy

I'll Lock Up
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8,580
Location
vancouver, canada
I am sure that this has been addressed somewhere but I cannot find it. What does the fraction only size indicate...a 6 and or a 7 and...I have looked at a couple hats with fractions only but did not pull the trigger because I was not sure. The hats I looked at were advertised with length and width measurements only. In all cases I asked the seller for a circumference measurement but got no response. Open roads and stratoliners primarily. I called Stetson and the other two hat shops where I made purchases in the past (JJ Hat and Henri-Henri in Montreal) but no one could provide the answer.
I am not clear on what you are asking. If a hat shows just a 3/4 on the size there is a very good chance that it is a 6 3/4". If it shows a 3/8" then it is likely a 7 3/8". What have you been seeing?
 
Messages
15,857
Location
Central California
I am sure that this has been addressed somewhere but I cannot find it. What does the fraction only size indicate...a 6 and or a 7 and...I have looked at a couple hats with fractions only but did not pull the trigger because I was not sure. The hats I looked at were advertised with length and width measurements only. In all cases I asked the seller for a circumference measurement but got no response. Open roads and stratoliners primarily. I called Stetson and the other two hat shops where I made purchases in the past (JJ Hat and Henri-Henri in Montreal) but no one could provide the answer.


Until the late 1950s Stetson usually just used the fraction and not the mixed number size. The problem is they used, for instance, “5/8” for hats that were both size 6 5/8 and 7 5/8. As almost all hat sizes are in 1/8 increments your “6/7” doesn’t make much sense.
 

Mysfit

New in Town
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10
I am a 7 5/8. The hats with 5/8 or 3/4 could be a 6 and …5/8 or 7 5/8. That’s what I meant by 6 or 7. I was not clear. I called a store in Texas and the fella told me that if it doesn’t fit me, it’s a 6 5/8 and if it fits it is 7 5/8. He was so good natured and funny that he made me laugh but no help for a Craigslist hat ad, with a location several hundred mile’s away.
 
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17,698
Location
Funkytown, USA
I am a 7 5/8. The hats with 5/8 or 3/4 could be a 6 and …5/8 or 7 5/8. That’s what I meant by 6 or 7. I was not clear. I called a store in Texas and the fella told me that if it doesn’t fit me, it’s a 6 5/8 and if it fits it is 7 5/8. He was so good natured and funny that he made me laugh but no help for a Craigslist hat ad, with a location several hundred mile’s away.

It pays to know your head's dimensions. I'm a pretty dead on 7 1/4 regular oval. I know that if the hat measures 8" x 6 1/2" it will fit me fine.

As a 7 5/8, your dimensions will be greater, but once you know.that, you know what.will fit comfortably. Given that info and a size tag, you should be able figure the hat size out.
 

belfastboy

I'll Lock Up
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8,580
Location
vancouver, canada
I am a 7 5/8. The hats with 5/8 or 3/4 could be a 6 and …5/8 or 7 5/8. That’s what I meant by 6 or 7. I was not clear. I called a store in Texas and the fella told me that if it doesn’t fit me, it’s a 6 5/8 and if it fits it is 7 5/8. He was so good natured and funny that he made me laugh but no help for a Craigslist hat ad, with a location several hundred mile’s away.
Chances are it is the smaller option. If you peruse Ebay you will find many more hats in the 6 7/8 than you will a 7 7/8 or a 6 3/4 rather than the larger 7 3/4"
 

Mysfit

New in Town
Messages
10
Ugh. I thought that might be the case. Way more 6 5/8 than 7 5/8 out in the vintage world. Part of me was like a kid hoping Santa Claus was real while seeing too much evidence it might not be true.
I will measure length and width of my hats and use that as a rule of thumb in the future. Thank you all for the info and tips.
 
Messages
15,857
Location
Central California
Ugh. I thought that might be the case. Way more 6 5/8 than 7 5/8 out in the vintage world. Part of me was like a kid hoping Santa Claus was real while seeing too much evidence it might not be true.
I will measure length and width of my hats and use that as a rule of thumb in the future. Thank you all for the info and tips.


To be honest, 6 5/8 is not a very common vintage hat size when looking at adult hats. If all you need to do is differentiate between 6 5/8 and 7 5/8 it’s pretty simple. The length of the head opening alone will answer that. A practiced eye can also use proportions: if an Open Road looks to have a 3 1/2” brim it’s a 6 5/8 but if it looks to have a 2 3/8” brim it’s a 7 5/8 (where the actual brim width is 2 3/4” for both sizes).
 

pacolizarraga

New in Town
Messages
45
Hi Guys,
any idea about the era of this hat? is this beaver?

Thanks
 

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Messages
15,857
Location
Central California
Hi Guys,
any idea about the era of this hat? is this beaver?

Thanks


Nice looking hat, but it’s very doubtful that it is beaver. Most of the soft felt hats (fedoras etc.) we’re not made of beaver. Some might have had a bit of beaver thrown in the mix when the fur was felted, but those are often prominently marked as such in the liner and/or sweatband. Many of the best fedoras, from the days when the best hats were made, were made of rabbit or European hare.

Most hat companies don’t tell us what the fur blend is. It’s also usually impossible to tell what kind of fur the felt is made of from photos.
 
Last edited:

pacolizarraga

New in Town
Messages
45
Nice looking hat, but it’s very doubtful that it is beaver. Most of the soft felt hats (fedoras etc.) we’re not made of beaver. Some might have had a bit of beaver thrown in the mix when the fur was felted, but those are often prominently marked as such in the liner and/or sweatband. Many of the best fedoras, from the days when the best hats were made, were made of rabbit or European hare.

Most hat companies don’t tell us what the fur blend is.
Thank you very much for your comment, the hat is clean no moth signs
 

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