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15,602
Location
Central California
So............so...............What Was the Answer?!?!?!?!?!?!?o_O I am waiting....;););););)
M:)

Cavanagh dropped “John” from their liners in 1950. “John Cavanagh Hats” became “Cavanagh Hats.” I suppose there were some in 1950 that still used John, but it’s a pretty safe bet that they’re from the 1940s or earlier.

http://www.thehattedprofessor.com/datecavanagh.html




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scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,065
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
Now that is impressive!
That would have been a great How-to for reference. Axle grease may make one wonder...what the heck??
But how many times has anyone bumped their lid “just checking the oil”?? Arggh!!
B

I was disassembling an outdoor wheelchair lift as the person who had been using it is no longer with us.

The drive assembly for this monstrosity is a steel rod 'screw,' taller and heavier than I am.

As I was removing it from the main housing it fell on me, and the only thing that kept it from cracking my head open was the Tawny Fawn Fed IV I had perched atop it.

As it is a mechanical drive assembly it was greased, as most mechanical drive assemblies are.

Initially, I was upset, but I don't love the color of the hat, and don't wear it much. But then I had read here about naptha (dry-cleaning fluid) and decided to give it a try. The Mr. Clean sponge just looked like the right tool for the job. I have used them previously, and they don't come apart the way a regular sponge does. I was actually stunned by the great results.
 

M Hatman

My Mail is Forwarded Here
UPDATE: When I got home this morning I dumped a layer of baby powder on the spotty area and gave it long firm stroked brushing. The spot disappeared. It looks brand new again! :cool:;):)
Baking Soda works well too!!!!! It is my "go to" for oil spots......
Grease is altogether different, you will need a solvent.
M;)
 

Juhani

New in Town
Messages
21
Location
Finland
Christy's or Akubra: an update to opinions presented here a decade ago?

I’m about to buy an open crown fur felt fedora hat. It’s something I haven’t have ever before. I started googling, and I found that eight or nine years ago there were interesting discussions about felts provided by Akubra and Christy’s.

Back then, almost a decade ago, some people said, Christy’s open crowns tended to taper if they got wet. Akubras, on the contrary, had an extremely good reputation as hats that never shrink.

Now after googling for a few days for hats, it seems that Akubras are still very popular.

My question is, if there has been any positive improvement in Christy’s felts, and if Akubra is still one of the leading manufacturers.

Having only one low crown wool felt fedora, I have no real experience on felt hats, so I’ll be thankful for your responses. In my country, Finland, this summer was the hottest one for a century, but I guess in few days the panama hat season will be over, and it’s about a time to get a felt hat..

Best Regards,
Juhani
 
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Messages
15,602
Location
Central California
Christy's or Akubra: an update to opinions presented here a decade ago?

I’m about to buy an open crown fur felt fedora hat. It’s something I haven’t have ever before. I started googling, and I found that eight or nine years ago there were interesting discussions about felts provided by Akubra and Christy’s.

Back then, almost a decade ago, some people said, Christy’s open crowns tended to taper if they got wet. Akubras, on the contrary, had an extremely good reputation as hats that never shrink.

Now after googling for a few days for hats, it seems that Akubras are still very popular.

My question is, if there has been any positive improvement in Christy’s felts, and if Akubra is still one of the leading manufacturers.

Having only one low crown wool felt fedora, I have no real experience on felt hats, so I’ll be thankful for your responses. In my country, Finland, this summer was the hottest one for a century, but I guess in few days the panama hat season will be over, and it’s about a time to get a felt hat..

Best Regards,
Juhani

The only Christys’ I own is a foldaway hat; not a good ambassador for the brand. You rarely see Christys’ in threads here so make of that what you will.


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jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,862
Location
San Francisco, CA
It's not that Akubras 'never' shrink. On the contrary, they are infamous for their shrinking sweatbands. They are, on balance, more resilient to weather than other brands, especially at their given price point. However, we have also recently seen a fairly tapered Fed IV posted to the lounge, so it does happen.

I happen to think that Christy's dyes are better and the feel of their felt is MILES ahead of Akubra. I've never gotten mine wet, so I can't vouch for durability, but it still looks good and I must have had it about 8-9 years now. If you're wanting an Indy hat, I also happen to think the Christy's block looks better than the Fed.
 

RJR

Messages
10,622
Location
Iowa
It's not that Akubras 'never' shrink. On the contrary, they are infamous for their shrinking sweatbands. They are, on balance, more resilient to weather than other brands, especially at their given price point. However, we have also recently seen a fairly tapered Fed IV posted to the lounge, so it does happen.

I happen to think that Christy's dyes are better and the feel of their felt is MILES ahead of Akubra. I've never gotten mine wet, so I can't vouch for durability, but it still looks good and I must have had it about 8-9 years now. If you're wanting an Indy hat, I also happen to think the Christy's block looks better than the Fed.
I can't argue with Jlee's opinion,here's a Christy's that's several years old but like his hasn't been soaking wet. Hat-INDY-Christys Adv-Poet 5.jpg
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,862
Location
San Francisco, CA
So I pulled mine out, still looks good! The felt is super soft and supple now that it's "aged" a bit. Tacking stitches are a bit obvious, but marginally nicer than Hatco ( no poly thread for one). I again, can't vouch for durability, only that if you treat it like a nice dress hat, it stays a nice dress hat. A quick perusal of the current reviews on the Christy's site seem to suggest that you still probably want to avoid rain, but steam should be fine.





Again, JMHO, the blocking and flanging on the Adventurer are better for the Indy look if that's what you want (that seems to be the case for most looking at those two specific brands). If I didn't have my Fortune and Glory, I'd probably be saving money for one of the new Herbert Johnsons. But my Indy hat itch is pretty well scratched. The flanging on the Fed is almost non existent (i.e. very flat brim) which is one of the things I dislike about the Fed. YMMV.
 
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Messages
11,405
Location
Southern California
...Again, JMHO, the blocking and flanging on the Adventurer are better for the Indy look if that's what you want (that seems to be the case for most looking at those two specific brands)...The flanging on the Fed is almost non existent (i.e. very flat brim) which is one of the things I dislike about the Fed. YMMV.
I have to admit I really didn't like the shallow brim flange on the Fed IV at first because I prefer curvy brims. But over the first month or so the brims on all of my Fed IVs developed slightly deeper flanging on their own with no help from me, and I grew to like the look. Also, despite the disclaimers on Hats Direct's website, we all know the first three incarnations of the Federation were based on the "Raiders" hats, and the brims on those were nearly flat as well:

8Xco7dE.jpg


Reportedly it was Ford himself who gave those hats the upturned edges on the sides and back of the brims.

And I acknowledge the fact that the Fed IV is based on the Crystal Skull hats, which had a more "traditional" fedora crease and a slightly deeper flange:

4GDQMUq.jpg


Why Akubra didn't duplicate that on the Fed IV, I don't know.

I also don't know anything about Christys' hats. I do know you can spend a little more (or a lot more) for one and get a closer representation of the Indiana Jones hat if that's what you want; they look like really nice hats. I also know the Fed IV is a good hat for the price, and you won't have to worry about it getting wet.
 

Juhani

New in Town
Messages
21
Location
Finland
Thanks a lot! I'm not looking especially for an Indy looks, just a tall crown, as I think that was the pre and post WW 2 fashion. To my eyes, it looks like fedoras they sell in the name of Bogart actually do not represent the height of the crown Bogart had in his movies. Naturally, I might be wrong about this.

Today, Christy’s open crown costs just few bucks more than Fed IV Deluxe. (Didn’t checked the shipment costs, though.) The colors of Christy’s look just beautiful, but my main concern is how much the felt can take rain. From autumn to springs, it rains in Finland as much as it rains in the UK, where they make Christy’s. They have more than a thousand years of experience of rain there, so i figured, they take this into consideraton when it comes to manufacturing felts.

At this point, my consideration is based on emotions and not facts. I’m open-minded for other brands too, but these two seem to be the most popular in search results.

Another option for me could be Akubra Squatter, but then I would have to be sure the crown keeps the center crease I desire. Usually, when googling for Squatter, I see just flat telescopes etc.

BTW, when I was a kid, I thought this was the way to wear a felt, no matter how much it looks like funeral wreaths:
http://79hbm1979mg58bnh1fp50y1bry.w...016/02/15-hat-and-scarf-portrait-664x1024.jpg

Juhani
 
Messages
11,405
Location
Southern California
...Another option for me could be Akubra Squatter, but then I would have to be sure the crown keeps the center crease I desire. Usually, when googling for Squatter, I see just flat telescopes etc...
You can order the Squatter from Everything Australian with an open crown and crease it yourself. Don't let the "Crown height: 10.5 cm (4.12")" comment turn you away--that's the "as creased" height, and I'd guess the open crown height is in the neighborhood of 5-1/4" to 5-1/2" (13.3 to 13.9 cm).
 

Juhani

New in Town
Messages
21
Location
Finland
You can order the Squatter from Everything Australian with an open crown and crease it yourself. Don't let the "Crown height: 10.5 cm (4.12")" comment turn you away--that's the "as creased" height, and I'd guess the open crown height is in the neighborhood of 5-1/4" to 5-1/2" (13.3 to 13.9 cm).

Just received an answer from Hattery, and according to them, the measurements are the following:
Squatter = 14.5cm crown with brim 76 x 73mm vs. Federation IV = 14cm crown with brim 70 x 63.

So, Squatter is even higher, and the decorated brim edge looks really beautiful. However, as I know so little about felts, what concerns me is that if Squatter doesn't keep center crease so well.
 

avedwards

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,425
Location
London and Midlands, UK
I’ve worn Akubras a lot over the years and handled Christys (though never worn them). I’ve also worn hats that I believe to come from the same factory as Christys. I would definitely recommend an Akubra. The felt on Akubras doesn’t feel as smooth and luxurious but they are much more durable and the sweat bands are more comfortable. So an Akubra will suit your needs better.

I would also suggest you consider the Campdraft. The crown is higher than the Fed IV and the brim is bound and has more of a shape. If you don’t like the thin ribbon you can replace it for a thicker ribbon. I think that if you ask, Hats Direct will supply you with ribbon.
 

avedwards

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,425
Location
London and Midlands, UK
Question of my own:

I’m looking for a pork pie hat for my partner’s father. I’m considering an Akubra Rap because I have enough experience with Akubras that I know the quality will be good. I’m also considering getting a black vintage fedora and creasing the crown into a pork pie / telescope shape.


My question is, can a fedora be creased into a pork pie / telescope crown?
 
Messages
17,592
Location
Funkytown, USA
Question of my own:

I’m looking for a pork pie hat for my partner’s father. I’m considering an Akubra Rap because I have enough experience with Akubras that I know the quality will be good. I’m also considering getting a black vintage fedora and creasing the crown into a pork pie / telescope shape.


My question is, can a fedora be creased into a pork pie / telescope crown?

Yes, if it started out open crown. If it has been factory creased, it will be more of a fight.
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,065
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
I have to admit I really didn't like the shallow brim flange on the Fed IV at first because I prefer curvy brims. But over the first month or so the brims on all of my Fed IVs developed slightly deeper flanging on their own with no help from me, and I grew to like the look. Also, despite the disclaimers on Hats Direct's website, we all know the first three incarnations of the Federation were based on the "Raiders" hats, and the brims on those were nearly flat as well:

8Xco7dE.jpg


Reportedly it was Ford himself who gave those hats the upturned edges on the sides and back of the brims.

And I acknowledge the fact that the Fed IV is based on the Crystal Skull hats, which had a more "traditional" fedora crease and a slightly deeper flange:

4GDQMUq.jpg


Why Akubra didn't duplicate that on the Fed IV, I don't know.

I also don't know anything about Christys' hats. I do know you can spend a little more (or a lot more) for one and get a closer representation of the Indiana Jones hat if that's what you want; they look like really nice hats. I also know the Fed IV is a good hat for the price, and you won't have to worry about it getting wet.

Fed IVs are described on the their website as open canvases, if you will. They emphasize that the buyer/owner can shape them themselves. Open crown and relatively flat brim.

The CS hat, btw, is a completely different animal. The specs for that hat are way above what the Fed IV offers, and the price reflects that.

My 3 Fed IVs all look a bit different. But none of the brims have that sever curl or break from back to font. That's one of the things I like about them.

I have applied steam to them and run hands along the sides of the brim, pushing up as I move my hands front to back, and I get a very nice brim shape. Can't do that with my '50s Royal Stetson, for instance. These hats are very customizable.
 
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