Best of the best over coats and trench coats.

[Caber]

I am looking for a top quality overcoat AND trench coat. I am looking for a few company's that use the best materials and who will fit the coat to my measurements.
Do any of you know the companies who are regarded as the top dogs in this department?

I’m not looking for factory made.coats. Hand tailored is preferred.
Internet surcharge gives me a lot of brand names like Armani etc. I want to pay for the quality of the coat and not for the name on the coat.

Do any of you know any makers that I might might fit that I’m looking for ?

 

[Blackadder]

I am looking for a top quality overcoat AND trench coat. I am looking for a few company's that use the best materials and who will fit the coat to my measurements.
Do any of you know the companies who are regarded as the top dogs in this department?

I’m not looking for factory made.coats. Hand tailored is preferred.
Internet surcharge gives me a lot of brand names like Armani etc. I want to pay for the quality of the coat and not for the name on the coat.

Do any of you know any makers that I might might fit that I’m looking for ?

The high end MTM are usually done at luxurious department stores. In most cases, you ahve to go to their stores or counters at department stores. Some brands that you can check out are Kiton, Corneliani, Canali.

May be you can try Canali to see if you can do it on video calls.

Book an appointment

Default Description

www.canali.com

 

[Canuck Panda]

Crombie makes very serious coats with very serious fabrics. Better value than the Italian brands. Unfortunately they closed operation since the start of Covid.
I’ve got both Italian and British coats. One impresses me the other impresses the coat check girl.

 

[Caber]

Who are some of the other British makers? Any American Makers that are worth a look?

 

[Blackadder]

Who are some of the other British makers? Any American Makers that are worth a look?

If MTM or bespoke is what you are looking for, why don't you check out your local tailor first?
Most British tailors that do MTM would likely require you to physically visit their shops, in England that is. That goes for Crombie too.
Reason I only listed those Italian brands are they would likely do fitting appointment at luxurious department stores in the US.
Ralph Lauren does MTM.
Here if you plan to visit NY

Inside New York City's hidden tower of tailors

At 130 West 57th Street, a wide array of made-to-measure menswear sits under one roof.

www.gq-magazine.co.uk

 

[Canuck Panda]

Is Brook Brothers still a thing in the US? Back in the 90s they were reasonably priced and had very high quality stuff.

The Italian brands offers great stuff but they are generally 3 to 4 times over priced. You will get better fabric color choices, and while they are generally lighter weights they are made with finer (micron) wool. I have a Made to measure one from Zegna from long time ago. It was overpriced, but the fabric is both stout and thin (so easier to wear).
The lesser known British brands will provide better wool fabric at better value. Think high quality Ralph Lauren before they turned crap.
You can still email Crombie. Maybe if enough people emailed them they will reopen again.
Here are my Crombies:

And a "Crombie style" Canali, same size 40 but loser fit. The Crombies have that Classic British military cut. The Italians are "slim fit" but less V tapered. The Crombie is about the price of a new Aero or less. The Canali was double that, but about the same in terms of quality. The Italians have fancier colors.

If Crombie doesn't open up again, there is a lesser known brand in Scotland, Walker Slaters. 1/2 to 2/3 Crombie price, but same quality fabric. Their cuts/design are more modern though. This one I got a size bigger to fit a suit under (42). The fabric is almost as thick as the thickest Crombie, it's heavy.

British members please chime in... It seems that it is still the norm to get a heavy quality British made coat for under £500? Am I outdated on this info?

 

[Caber]

Those are so nice

Is Brook Brothers still a thing in the US? Back in the 90s they were reasonably priced and had very high quality stuff.

The Italian brands offers great stuff but they are generally 3 to 4 times over priced. You will get better fabric color choices, and while they are generally lighter weights they are made with finer (micron) wool. I have a Made to measure one from Zegna from long time ago. It was overpriced, but the fabric is both stout and thin (so easier to wear).
The lesser known British brands will provide better wool fabric at better value. Think high quality Ralph Lauren before they turned crap.
You can still email Crombie. Maybe if enough people emailed them they will reopen again.
Here are my Crombies:
View attachment 409892
View attachment 409893
View attachment 409894
View attachment 409895

And a "Crombie style" Canali, same size 40 but loser fit. The Crombies have that Classic British military cut. The Italians are "slim fit" but less V tapered. The Crombie is about the price of a new Aero or less. The Canali was double that, but about the same in terms of quality. The Italians have fancier colors.

View attachment 409896

If Crombie doesn't open up again, there is a lesser known brand in Scotland, Walker Slaters. 1/2 to 2/3 Crombie price, but same quality fabric. Their cuts/design are more modern though. This one I got a size bigger to fit a suit under (42). The fabric is almost as thick as the thickest Crombie, it's heavy.
View attachment 409897

British members please chime in... It seems that it is still the norm to get a heavy quality British made coat for under £500? Am I outdated on this info?

Those are very very nice!!!!

 

[GHT]

A good tailor will make a coat to your design and if that design is of a vintage style then a coat pattern is essential. You can find such patterns as well as photos from the period here.

 

[Caber]

A good tailor will make a coat to your design and if that design is of a vintage style then a coat pattern is essential. You can find such patterns as well as photos from the period here.

View attachment 409938

Excellent resource! Do you have any knowledge of Taylors a side from the ones mentioned above so far?

 

[Brandrea33]

It’s gotta be the “Executive”

 

[Edward]

It’s gotta be the “Executive”

View attachment 410126

Is that the fabled Beltless Executive?

 

[Brandrea33]

Is that the fabled Beltless Executive?

Indeed
the beltess trench coat was a classic!

 

[Caber]

anybody know anything about Senszio trench coats ?

 

[GHT]

Excellent resource! Do you have any knowledge of Taylors a side from the ones mentioned above so far?

Not in the US I don't, you could try a Google search. I could give you a couple of London based tailors, but then you would have to fill out all your measurements. For made to measure it's far better to leave measurements to a professional tailor.

 

[Caber]

What about magnoli clothers? They have some over coats

 

[Caber]

Has any one know anything about magnli overcoat quality or Senszio?

 

[Aloysius]

I am looking for a top quality overcoat AND trench coat. I am looking for a few company's that use the best materials and who will fit the coat to my measurements.
Do any of you know the companies who are regarded as the top dogs in this department?

I’m not looking for factory made.coats. Hand tailored is preferred.
Internet surcharge gives me a lot of brand names like Armani etc. I want to pay for the quality of the coat and not for the name on the coat.

Do any of you know any makers that I might might fit that I’m looking for ?

For your overcoat, forget brands altogether. Have one made. Bespoke tailors range widely in price but even one on the more affordable end will turn out a far better coat than you will find ready-to-wear. Tailors can be hard to come by in the US, though they do exist. It is always an option to wait for the visit by an English tailor to the US, and go get yourself measured up.

The brand discussion above is largely irrelevant to this topic. Likewise, a good tailor will be able to get ahold of any kind of fabric. The first question, regarding your overcoat, is how you prefer your tailoring. In simple terms:

Do you like structure and clean lines?

Do you like drape (shaping a structure around you, using the drape of the fabric to do so)?

Would you like something in-between?

None of these is a bad option. My own tailor is on the structured military end but I love drape tailoring as well. Answer this, and I can make some more specific recommendations.

Trenchcoats are factory made by nature. As an unstructured garment, it will drape over whatever your tailoring is, and is designed to have some degree of slack. That said, the best of their kind includes the likes of the Burberry Westminster Heritage and Grenfell Windsor. Look into both.

 

[Aloysius]

I am skeptical of 'send in measurements' online MTM operations. They also don't mix well with your notion of 'top quality… that use the best materials and who will fit the coat… Hand tailored' etc. These operations will do a lot of shortcuts.

What budget are you working with? No wrong answer but it will help guide the best options.

 

[Caber]

For your overcoat, forget brands altogether. Have one made. Bespoke tailors range widely in price but even one on the more affordable end will turn out a far better coat than you will find ready-to-wear. Tailors can be hard to come by in the US, though they do exist. It is always an option to wait for the visit by an English tailor to the US, and go get yourself measured up.

The brand discussion above is largely irrelevant to this topic. Likewise, a good tailor will be able to get ahold of any kind of fabric. The first question, regarding your overcoat, is how you prefer your tailoring. In simple terms:

Do you like structure and clean lines?

Do you like drape (shaping a structure around you, using the drape of the fabric to do so)?

Would you like something in-between?

None of these is a bad option. My own tailor is on the structured military end but I love drape tailoring as well. Answer this, and I can make some more specific recommendations.

Trenchcoats are factory made by nature. As an unstructured garment, it will drape over whatever your tailoring is, and is designed to have some degree of slack. That said, the best of their kind includes the likes of the Burberry Westminster Heritage and Grenfell Windsor. Look into both.

I think I would like something in between. Budget is $500 -1700

 

[Caber]

I’m not against made to measure either. It doesn’t nessasserly have to be completely tailor made. I’m looking for a good fit but also something that is of great quality material, warm, and that is tough enough to stand up to any harsh weather