Bootlegger winter jacket

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by torfjord, Jan 4, 2018.

  1. torfjord

    torfjord One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,520
    Location:
    Sweden
    Hi all,

    I’m early in planning for next winter and have an idea for a Bootlegger that I wanted to ask for second opinions about (my partner don’t want to hear another word about jackets, her last response when I asked her opinion was “are you really going to buy another jacket that looks exactly like the 10 jackets that you already have?”). So I’m hoping for some enabling and input from all of you [emoji2]

    I was initially torn between battered tan HH and Cordovan Steerhide but after looking at leather samples i think I’m decided on Cordovan (although the Cherry looks really cool as well... so many options!)
    The battered tan looks awesome and I need to have something made out of that, but I want a darker hide for a winter jacket.

    But I have a couple of questions that I was hoping someone could help with:

    Since I’m thinking this should be a colder weather jacket I’ve been looking at tweed linings. The Glengarry looks especially nice. I would appreciate advice on

    1. How warm is the tweed lining? I’m thinking this jacket should be used from -5 degrees Celsius and warmer, do you think a tweed lining would be appropriate, or should I opt for something different?
    2. Would the glengarry look good with the Cordovan? I have a hard time trying to envision how they would look together (I don’t have a sample of the lining). Does anyone here own a jacket with glengarry lining, or have firsthand experience in handling one?

    Another thing I want on my bootlegger is a fur collar, but I have a hard time deciding on a color. Do I go for a natural to contrast with the Cordovan or do I go with a more discreet brown? I’ve google searched for images but haven’t found anything so far that has made the decision easier for me. Any input would be appreciated.

    Last question concerns fit. This will be my third Aero. I got a 30’s half belt a year ago in size 40 that fits me well. I have a rather slim build at 73 kg, 182 cm, and I wear a size 30 jeans.
    The taper of my half belt means that I have a tight but comfortable fit. Do you know if the bootlegger tapers in a similar manner or if I should ask Aero for more taper on the bootlegger?

    Thanks in advance!


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  2. jacketjunkie

    jacketjunkie Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,017
    Location:
    Germany
    At -5°C, I was freezing in my alpaca lined jacket, which I considered a comfortably warm jacket from 0-10°C. Based on this experience, I think tweed isn't warm enough for what you are looking for. I'd go for alpaca and prepare myself to layer under the jacket if I was to buy a winter jacket suited for -5°C.

    Regarding shearling collar; I'd go with the Irvin collar. Its rugged appearance will blend in nicely with the quickly developing patina of the CLX cordovan.

    edit: Fitwise, I believe the Bootlegger is based on the 50s HB which is roomier than the 30s HB. For a winter jacket, I wouldn't size down though and keep the extra space for layering a thick woolen sweater. If you insist on a tight fit, you may consider a STF Bootlegger. Someone on the Lounge (ProteinNerd maybe?) has one and it looks spectacular. Edit: Found it:
    http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-premier-fit-bootlegger-in-vintage-cordovan.79449/

    Edit: Sloan has one too, look here:
    http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...sneak-preview-of-new-designs-and-a-mug.90441/
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2018
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  3. Gromulus

    Gromulus Practically Family

    Messages:
    573
    Location:
    NE Ohio, USA
    I can't help you on your personal choices but this comment made me chuckle. I am sure most or all of us have heard similar comments!

    Good luck re. your Bootlegger...this is my favorite leather jacket.
     
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  4. dubpynchon

    dubpynchon Practically Family

    Messages:
    941
    Location:
    Ireland
    Here's a Thunderbay with a natural collar, this would be my choice if I didn't also already have ten leather jackets (there might be more, I'm too afraid to count them). I'd go for shearling lined and size up, I don't think alpaca or tweed would do the job at -5.

     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2018
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  5. Dav

    Dav One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,708
    Location:
    Somerset, England
    -5 is sheepskin weather for me, neither my Tweed or Alpaca lined jackets are warm at that temperature.
     
  6. Vezio

    Vezio One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    117
    Location:
    Italy
    I apologize if I can seem abrupt, but I think I agree with your wife.
    Bootlegger is a great jacket, but, as usually all leather jackets, it is not suitable for very low temperatures (obviously according to my opinion!).
    I own an Aero Premier Half Belt jacket in horsehide, with a medium Tartan lining, and I'm already cold around 10 ° C.
    This winter I also bought an Aero B6 jacket in sheepskin shearling, and between 7 ° and 2 ° C I'm cold too (maybe I have to do a new thyroid check;)).
    I live in Napoli - Italy, where the climate is mild enough in winter, and the temperature rarely drops to 0 °, but I think that for too low temperatures, technical fabric jackets or quilted jackets are more suitable to resist the cold!
    The advice that I can give you is to consider a lining totally in shearling, which in my opinion is the material that keeps warmer (Aero Leather has three different colors).
    Regarding the color, my B6 in seal sheepskin is dark enough to look almost black (in contrast, the brown horsehide inserts are less intense but dark however).
    Regarding the size I think you have to compromise if you want a bit of protection from the cold: from what I have read in the forums, bootlegger dresses a little wider than a 1930's Half Belt for the same size, but this would be necessary for a thicker lining.
    Otherwise you have to suffer to be a fashion model, as a friend of mine used to say wearing the T-shirt in December (but this about 20 years ago when we were young, now I'm 41;):)).
    I hope I have been helpful.
    Vezio.
     
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  7. Thebuzzard

    Thebuzzard One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    109
    I'm planning on a new winter coat as well. I've read piles of posts here that say the alpaca won't do into minus temps, and that the shearling is the way to go.

    Has anyone here have any experience with both a sheepskin flight jacket and a mouton lined jacket? How they differ in the cold?


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  8. MET

    MET A-List Customer

    Messages:
    317
    Location:
    Ankara
    Shearling lined steerhide or horsehide civilian jackets would not be lined with shearling in the sleeves. But B6, B3, Anj4, D1 and RAF are all lined with shearling everywhere. That will be the difference.
     
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  9. Thebuzzard

    Thebuzzard One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    109
    That's quite a good point.

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  10. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    13,151
    Location:
    Chicago
    My new Bootlegger is lined with dark brown corduroy. It's a wonderful and warm liner. You could use moleskin in the sleeves for added warmth. I personally went with drill in the sleeves.
    The fit is roomier than the 30's models but the beauty of the Half belt design is the range of adjustment it overs for cinching in the waist. I will agree as others have mentioned...at a certain point it's never going to be as warm as a shearling jacket. Fur collar would be cool. I have one on my j 106 but mocked it up for you as a preview on my Bootlegger. Mine is brown steer, but it has quite a bit of red in it.
    IMG_7575.JPG
    IMG_7576.JPG
     
  11. Chris7273

    Chris7273 One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    103
    Location:
    Belgium
    My next aero jacket for the winter will be a long half belt with dark shearling lining. I don t like fur collar as I find them to bulky. A good scarf is more versatile.
    The leather will be blackened brown Vicenza.
    For the lining of the sleeves : I wonder if the quilted lining is an option
    I am planning a trip in Scotland and I will visit aero so I can discuss all the options and have my measurements taken for a good fit
     
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  12. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    9,154
    Location:
    SoCal
    The irridescent red quilted lining is the Bomb!
     
  13. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    13,151
    Location:
    Chicago
    Forgot about that one! Yeah the quilted liners are amazing. I think @Mickiemac has the older forest green? Very cool!
     
  14. bluesforchallah

    bluesforchallah Practically Family

    Messages:
    672
    Location:
    Shakedown Street, Seattle
    Truth! Should have heard the conversation my wife and I had while visiting Langlitz. Started inside at the counter and spilled out onto the sidewalk. Awkward. More because I thought my wife and I were already on the same page; apparently we weren't. This made it clear, any plans I had of purchasing any other jackets were not going to happen. Though my 50th is coming up (2 years), this will undoubtedly be a topic that comes up again. :D :D :D

    Sorry for the thread jack. Now back to our regularly scheduled program...
     
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  15. Leither

    Leither One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    231
    Location:
    Edinburgh
    Love the tweed lining in my brown fqhh Bootlegger bought off the rail at Aero.
    Brown corduroy strip lower back and corduroy pockets. Super warm in Scottish winter. 12556b34c598b557_s3156-label.jpg 20156b34c63ae576_s3156-lining.jpg 80356b34c066ef0b_s3156-500.jpg
     

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  16. Fonzie

    Fonzie One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,287
    Location:
    Australia
    Here’s a model of a Cordovan FQHH and Glengarry Harris tweed combo, beautiful stuff.
    Not mine, I wish though.

    [​IMG]


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  17. torfjord

    torfjord One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,520
    Location:
    Sweden
    Thanks jacketjunkie, Irvin does look really nice as well. Definitely something to consider.

    The STF fit does look very interesting, do you know if it's something that you can get directly from Aero (they don't list the style on their website) or if you would have to go through Thurston Bros?

    The thing that makes me hesitant about shearling is that I'm afraid it will be too warm, making the jacket unusable unless it gets really cold. Making a jacket with an alpaca/tweed lining with room for layering a more versatile option. If you have experience with aero shearling/sheepskin, when does it get "too warm" to wear? +10 celcius? +5?

    I have an old vintage sheepskin jacket that I've been using when it gets really cold (-10 and below) and it's great for that. But it's a little too big for me so I haven't really tried it in warmer weathers (don't want to wear the ill fitting jacket unless necessary). I actually just put it on when writing this and I'm starting to feel rather toasty after just a minute.

    Thanks Vezio! I agree that it's important to be warm in winter, I'm not 20 years either ;) I would agree that for low enough temperatures, leather is not the best option. Thankfully it don't get that cold in the parts of sweden where I live that often. Maybe once every 4 years we will get long periods of minus 10-15 Celsius. And when it's that cold, you don't really care about style anymore, it's all about survival!

    As you say, it's about finding a balance between making room for a thicker lining and still having a nice fit. Hard rope to walk ;)

    Thanks for the mock-up, above and beyond! Your Bootlegger(s) look very nice and are part of what made me decide on that style. Curious to know if you have the original bootlegger or the STF version? Apart from changing the back and adding zip sleeves, did you request any changes to the fit of the jacket?

    I never thought of corduroy since Aero does not list it at their website. But they can add it if you email and ask them? Just how Deep does this rabbit hole go? ;) Definitely something to consider as I imagine it should be a lot more comfortable than a tweed lining.

    That also looks very nice. Do you know how it compares to alpaca and tweed in terms of warmth?

    That lining looks great as well. Scotland and Sweden should have similar climates, I think.

    Thanks Fonzie! That was exactly the type of photo I was looking for. Seeing that makes me a whole lot more confident about the glengarry lining. Looks great with Cordovan.
     
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  18. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    13,151
    Location:
    Chicago
    I did not request anything for fit beyond the sleeve and body length. In my correspondence with Carrie, I did mention the fact that 19.5 inches across the shoulder and 24 inches pit to pit were perfect numbers for me. based on that information and past experience the tag size 40, standard fit, worked out quite well.
    As far as the corduroy lining goes, i've seen it on a couple jackets over the years. I've always really liked how it looked, and it turns out it's quite comfortable and warm as well. Good luck with your hunt, it is indeed a deep rabbit hole, the bottom of which is up to you!
     
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  19. Guppy

    Guppy My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,687
    Location:
    Cleveland, OH
    Weighing in. I've had two bootleggers: the first was a size 36 in super HEAVY steer, probably 4.5oz. I bought it on eBay even though it was way smaller than I'd normally wear, because the measurements were comparable to other jackets that I can wear. So I bought it, and it fit well, but snug and I couldn't layer under it. Still, it was NICE and I liked it... for warmer weather.

    The second is a size 44, and I still have it. My normal chest size is 44, and this fits me, albeit with enough room that I can wear a thick sweater under it. I do so regularly, and have taken long walks in winter wearing it so attired, and have not had any problem staying warm. Without the sweater, the jacket is not warm enough to wear in cold winter weather, but can easily go down to around 12C or so. Zipped up, with a scarf around my neck, and I'm good.

    I would opt for alpaca or corduroy lining if you want something for colder weather, but think layers for colder weather, not the jacket itself.
     
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  20. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    9,154
    Location:
    SoCal
    Alpaca isn't that warm!
     

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