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Can we please discuss sizing of jackets please

Mister Rivets

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95
Hi everyone, what is the most important measurement to you on a jacket?
I recently ordered a jacket and sized down thinking it would be slimmer thats not what happened. I feel like I borrowed my sons jacket.
 

Mister Rivets

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95
Pictures. Some think its perfect some think its a size to big! I can promise you if this was a 36 my shoulders would never fit.
This jacket is a 38 I usually wear a size 40. I always try on a 38 but the shoulders and sleeve don't work. shoulders are always to tight and the sleeves are usually to short
 

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Superfluous

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I am guided by four measurements when purchasing a jacket, each of which is equally important: P2P, shoulder, back length, and sleeve length. The P2P and shoulder measurements dictate how the jacket lays under the arms and across the chest and are most germane to the "fit" of the jacket. The length measurements serve an entirely different purpose.

If I had to select the "most important measurement," I guess I would say its the P2P. That is where I always start when evaluating a jacket. I look at the P2P first and, if that is in my window, I move on to the other measurements.

Some here downplay the import of the shoulder measurement. I respectfully disagree. My shoulder window is approximately 1.25 inches -- anything larger falls off my shoulder (or creates peaked shoulders) and causes creasing under my arms and across my chest -- anything less is restrictive. I have seen @Carlos840 photos depicting jackets with three inch variations in shoulder measurements that fit him equally well -- I don't know why, but my personal experience is very different. The explanation may lie in one's body shape. I have a rather barrel shaped body. @Carlos840 and others have a more V-shaped body. Perhaps the shoulder measurement is more pertinent to barrel shaped bodies and/or V-shaped bodies have a broader window in terms of the shoulder measurement.
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

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I would also add bottom hem to the equation. Depending on how your body type is, the mid waist measurement is kind of important as well if you need taper.

I think the photo you provided shows a pretty good fit. Shoulders seem big based on how the line is hitting, but it's tricky with military style jackets. That seems to be the case on the "standard" sizing ratios. My B3 for instance has wider shoulders than I would normally go for, but without that, the sleeve length would be ridiculously short. Trucker style jackets are another style that has wider shoulders than usual.

So if you're ok with that sort of drooping look, I think what you posted is pretty darn close. If not, you'll probably have to customize a jacket with smaller shoulders and longer sleeves, or pick another style.
 

JMax

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8,706
I agree with @Superfluous. I look for those measurements, pretty much in that order too. I worry less about length because given my body measurements, if the P2P is good all else normally is good to go. With vintage jackets I tend to want to see the bottom hem measurement too.

Edit: Too many hats beat me to it this time lol. Well done bud. Bottom Hem measurement are important.
 

Carlos840

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London
Hi,

For me the most important measurements are the pit to pit and the bottom hem.
I am very V shaped, so i need to know if the jacket will be a bag on me before anything else.

I have 42" chest, 33" waist, i like 22.5" pit to pit, i know from experience that i can wear anything from 21.5" to 24.5" (3" range") without problems.
I then move on to the bottom hem, i know 19.5" side to side is tight, 20.5" is perfect, anything above 21 that isn't belted will look like a bag and have a massive overhang (2" range)' That to me is probably the most important measurement, it's the difference between a good fit and a bag.
I then look at sleeve length, i know that 25.5" sleeve with 19.5" shoulders will work well and give me wrist bone sleeves.
Starting from there i can extrapolate different combinations, if the jacket has wider shoulders i can afford to have shorter sleeves, if the shoulders are narrower i know i need longer sleeves. I have jackets with soulders ranging from 18.5" up to 21" and sleeves from 25" to 27.5".
Back length depends on models, but for motorcycle jackets i go 24.5-25.5, for halfbelts 26.5, for longer coats 28.5 to 30.5
IMO the less important measurement on a leather jacket is shoulder to shoulder.

An important thing to keep in mind is that numbers don't mean everything.
I have bought jackets that had "good numbers" that ended up not fitting, and i have bought jackets with numbers that made no sens whatsoever that ended up a perfect fit.

Have a look at this thread, i uploaded a bunch of fit pics with the numbers of each jackets, it has really helped me figure out how numbers affected fit:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-leather-jacket-database.93804/


Edit: here is the post that Super is refering to showing how shoulder measurements affect fit overall:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ou-wearing-today.82949/page-1376#post-2733736
 
Last edited:

Mister Rivets

Familiar Face
Messages
95
Hi,

For me the msot important measurements are the pit to pit and the bottom hem.
I am very V shaped, so i need to know if the jacket will be a bag on me before anything else.

I have 42" chest, i like 22.5" pit to pit, i know from experience that i can wear anything from 21.5" to 24.5" (3" range") without problems.
I then move on to the bottom hem, i know 19.5" side to side is tight, 20.5" is perfect, anything above 21 that isn't belted will look like a bag and have a massive overhang (2" range)' That to me is probably the most important measurement, it's the difference between a good fit and a bag.
I then look at sleeve length, i know that 25.5" with 19.5" shoulders will work well and give me wrist bone sleeves.
Starting from there i can extraplate different combinations, if the jacket has wider shoulders i can afford to have shorter sleeves, if the shoulders are narrower i know i need longer sleeves. I have jackets with soulders ranging from 18.5" up to 21" and sleeves from 25" to 27.5".
Back length depends on models, but for motorcycle jackets i go 25.5, for halfbelts 26.5, for longer coats 28.5 to 30.5
IMO the less important measurement on a leather jacket is shoulder to shoulder.

An important thing to keep in mind is that numbers don't mean everything.
I have bought jackets that had "good numbers" that ended up not fitting, and i have bought jackets with numbers that made no sens whatsoever that ended up a perfect fit.

Have a look at this thread, i uploaded a bunch of fit pics with the numbers of each jackets, it has really helped me figure out how numbers affected fit:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-leather-jacket-database.93804/
I understand the BAG. I grew up swimming and my shoulders and back are bigger than normal and throws me into a bigger size. I have a V shaped back. chest measures 39 relaxed
 

Ernest P Shackleton

One Too Many
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1,187
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P2P = pit to pit. I find that the p2p tells me 90% of what I need to know. That's obviously an arbitrary percentage, but it's really the only measurement that concerns me.
 

dwilson

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Location
LA
Theres a reason most retailers will list shoulder, p2p, body length and sleeve length. Sometimes you just need to know your personal measurements and no matter how much you may like a jacket it just won't work out for you. Like Carlos I have wide shoulders and a comparatively wide chest to my waist. There are some jackets I really like but I know since the shoulders are too narrow it won't work out for me.
 

nick123

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California
I understand the BAG. I grew up swimming and my shoulders and back are bigger than normal and throws me into a bigger size. I have a V shaped back. chest measures 39 relaxed

The shawl collared jackets seem tricky to nail down size wise. They seem to just be rather wide fitting and kind of odd. Maybe not the best pattern for a V-shaped torso? It looks like sizing down could be a remedy, but it’s entirely possible it’d still look a bit off. Maybe more length would help?

and to answer the question, I focus on p2p, back, and sleeve lengths. Shoulders only when they appear smaller in proportion to pit dimensions (ie Aero Premier Range). The waist is another dimension to reinforce the accuracy of the p2p measurement or to see if the jacket has a significant taper.
 

Mich486

One Too Many
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1,627
I think the most important things have been said already by others. I agree with those who say that p2p and bottom hem are the key numbers.

I’ll only also add that if you want a really super trim fitting jacket than there is little room for error. If you like a more relaxed and comfortable fitting jacket than +/- 1 inch here or there doesn’t make a massive difference.
 

MrProper

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Europe
My shoulder window is approximately 1.25 inches -- anything larger falls off my shoulder (or creates peaked shoulders)

I think it depends a little on how the sleeves are attached to the shoulder. The steeper the angle from sleeve to shoulder, the more the shoulder measurement has to fit. The flatter the angle, the less significant the measure is. At least in terms of peaky shoulders, that's my observation.

They seem to just be rather wide fitting and kind of odd. Maybe not the best pattern for a V-shaped torso?

I would agree with that. It's more of a boxy pattern. My Cossack only fits because it was made according to my specifications. But even then I had to find out that I am not a shawl collar person.
6C90E1FE-468E-46AA-96AB-0DD37EB01BA7_1_201_a.jpeg
 

ProteinNerd

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Sydney
I think it depends on how critical you are on the fit of the jacket.

If you aren't obsessive you can probably get away with just relying on the P2P and can "make do" with how the rest of the jacket fits after that but if you are much more particular then clearly you will need to know more. In descending order of importance I look at pit to pit, shoulder, sleeve length (in relation to shoulder), body length and lastly hem.
 

Marc mndt

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5,392
I agree with others that shoulder width is the least important measurement in terms of fit. Personally, I think the 'right' shoulder width depends mostly on the type of jacket and the look that goes with it.

Left: 21" Right: 18'

6147ABB2-D70D-4271-B275-BB99D095C77C.jpeg


21" works great for the CHP jacket on the left, but would look awful on the cafe racer on the right.
 

Mister Rivets

Familiar Face
Messages
95
I made myself wear this jacket all day today driving around and running errands and it fits me I've decided.
I am in size shock none of my coats are short to begin with and they all are roomy.
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

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2,159
I made myself wear this jacket all day today driving around and running errands and it fits me I've decided.
I am in size shock none of my coats are short to begin with and they all are roomy.
welcome to the club. Now you sell all your other jackets and buy new ones. Happened to me. Happened to others. Will happen again. The blessing/curse of this place :);):mad::eek::rolleyes:
 

Carlos840

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London
I agree with others that shoulder width is the least important measurement in terms of fit. Personally, I think the 'right' shoulder width depends mostly on the type of jacket and the look that goes with it.

Left: 21" Right: 18'

View attachment 322921

21" works great for the CHP jacket on the left, but would look awful on the cafe racer on the right.

IMO the bottom overhang on the cafe racer is far more noticeable and displeasing than the slight rounded shoulder the 21" shoulders give you.
That's why i care so much about bottom hem and so little about shoulder width.
 

dudewuttheheck

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3,597
Pit to pit is number one for me and always has been, but back and front length as well as sleeve length have become basically just as important to me. Shoulders matter too, but I feel like I have a bit more wiggle room there. As a shorter guy with a broad chest, the balance between length and width has to be just right.
 

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