Can't ID age/manufacture of Perfecto-style vintage jacket

[oldsalt]

I picked up this vintage cycle jacket at the thrift store. The label (probably square based on a faint outline) is gone. I'm curious if anyone can ID the manufacturer or era. The closest types I've found so far are maybe a 1950s Langlitz Columbia or Cal Leather sheriff jacket (but there is no snap for badge.) I'm aware it could just be a one-off, however.

The material is rigid black leather, possibly horsehide. The lining is a dark grey and satiny nylon-like, with fine ribbed texture. Can't find any material tags or leather stamps.

The only dateable features are brass Talon (fan-shaped) zipper pulls and Rau Fastener Co. fasteners.

Other features:
-- No snaps to secure the collar flaps to the chest, but there are snaps for a detachable collar, which is missing.
-- Two side pockets and a breast pocket with brass Talon zippers. No inside pockets.
-- Western-style yoke back with side lace adjust. Front has dress collar. Cuffs have cuff zippers.
-- Belt loop waistband with no belt.

 

[Worf]

Dinerman will sort you out soon. He's the absolute, number one honcho when it comes to identification of older jackets via zips alone.

Worf

 

[Dinerman]

From what I'm seeing, I think mid-late 1930s and worth a boatload of money.

This kind of zip?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Similar. Looks to have had a snap on (probably fur/mouton) collar. Had that been present, even more cashola would be in the offing.

I'd love to see some close-up shots of the zips. most important is the puller you've described and the box at the base of the zip.

 

[oldsalt]

From what I'm seeing, I think mid-late 1930s and worth a boatload of money.

This kind of zip?

Yep. Weirdly, there are 3 different kinds of pulls on this jacket. All Talon, all old and oxidized. The main pull is silver-tone fan shape (pic #1 below.) The breast pocket, right pocket, and right cuff zipper pull look like pic #2 below. The left pocket and left cuff zipper are brass-tone fan shape. Like the main pull just not silver.

There's no marking on any of the zipper boxes.

Also adding pic of belt loop snap with lining.

 

[Dinerman]

That confirms it. Mid 1930s. The different types of zips isn't unusual. Talon made a wide range for different applications. In that condition in that rare design (for that era) and with those details, that's a rare and valuable jacket.

 

[53Effie]

It looks to have a snap closure as well on the sleeve end. With that and the lapel and yoke treatment, I wonder if it might not be some iteration of a Trojan.

 

[oldsalt]

Sweet, got my $8 worth.

There are snaps on the sleeve ends. What is a Trojan?

Any other ideas for who was making jackets like this in late 1930s?

 

[53Effie]

Trojan is one of the older jacket brands. I believe they were produced in the Los Angeles area, but I'm not sure they go clear back to the 1930's. Probably more post WWII I would think, but I am not positive of that. At any rate, you did really well for $8.00. I'd sure like to run onto something like your jacket.

 

[Deleted member 16736]

When I saw the yoke, I thought 30's, too. If you can take more detailed pictures, we'd all love to see them. I agree this is a very rare jacket.

 

[oldsalt]

I made an Imgur gallery with some close-ups of the jacket. Exciting stuff! Glad no one grabbed this for a Halloween costume.

http://imgur.com/a/z66wF#0

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Does it fit you..??
HD

 

[oldsalt]

Sort of. Not well. I'm a female and it looks a bit odd on me.

 

[Highwaymanman]

That's fantastic! Now you don't even have a good excuse to keep it. Time to make some money!

Appropos of nothing, has anyone else noticed that it's very much the current style for ladies to be wearing Lewis Super Monza or Schott Perfecto knock offs in el cheapo fashion leather? That's how it is in NYC and the UK this last year anyway. I have mixed feelings... it's like close but no cigar, you know? I feel the same about the trend toward wearing Ramones shirts by obviously non Ramones listening youth. I just wanna march up and ask them to name their favorite song on 'Brain Drain'.

Instead though, I vent on the internet.

So, flip that jacket and spend the money at Insurrection. Carrie there knows her stuff and they have a wicked selection of styles and makes. May I suggest an Aero Cafe racer in brown oil pull horse hide? Maybe without the bi swing? Just the ticket, I reckon.