Clean/Block/Refurbish

[dopey]

Gentlemen:

I have purchased some nice hats on e-bay that I would like refurbished - i.e., cleaned, blocked, ribbon replacements, etc. In one case there are what are probably moth nibbles on the underside of the brim that I could ignore or have repaired if feasible.

I know people love Art, but he is not available. The hats all have bound or welted edges, which Fedora says takes him out. They would have been my first choices. Do any of you have other recommendations? I would appreciate it if you could post or PM me with specific experiences and roughly what you were charged for these services.

I am aware of Optimo as a possibility and would love to hear about experiences with them for this purpose. I have already done a search of the site and came across Daryl (aka Kentucky Blues) Bogie Cavanagh shepherded through Optimo by Zohar. More details on that would be good to.

Thanks all. My office is now filled with hats. I would love to send some off.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Just got back my vintage Emerson fedora that Graham cleaned a week ago, and I have my Graphite grey Optimo over there right now. He has no problem with bound edges. He has cleaned welt edge hats for me in the past as well. Go for Optimo.

 

[Andykev]

Go with Optimo for FULL SERVICE HAT CARE

In one case there are what are probably moth nibbles on the underside of the brim that I could ignore or have repaired if feasible.

Moth bites are NOT repairable, as the felt is eaten away. If they are very small and not deep, you can have the hat sanded (pounced), much in the same way a table is sanded to have the dings and dents lessened. But unlike a table or hardwood floor, a felt hat is thin. My experience has been that once a hat has been eaten by moths, I have passed up on owing it. Of course, this is on a case by case basis.

The hats all have bound or welted edges, which Fedora says takes him out.

I don't know what you mean "Fedora says takes him out". You mean that Fedora removes the edges or binding? Your choice, but it makes the brim less rigid and narrower. Cleaning a welted edge is not a problem, nor is a bound edge. Often if the bound edge is very bad, or faded, you simply have it rebound. I recommend Optimo for this. Marlene is a masterful hat trimmer.

I am aware of Optimo as a possibility and would love to hear about experiences with them for this purpose.

I have sent several vintage hats to Graham at Optimo. I highly recommend him. He has replaced whatever is needed (sweat, ribbon, edge, liner), and the hat comes back clean as new. He also brushes, sands, greases, or scrubs the felt as necessary. Believe me, it is well worth it!

He has also replaced ribbon trim (put on a taller one) to hide some discoloration of the felt on an otherwise pristine hat. This hat was improperly stored and the packaging material "faded"? the felt around the ribbon. After putting on a taller ribbon, the hat looked perfect, and even more "1940's" with the new ribbon. He aslo changed it from a faded silver, to black (grey-silver hat). Really perked up the hat.

I have also sent back hats to have the size adjusted, which means it was disassembled, and new leather, ribbon, etc. was installed. My cases were to upsize the hat from say, 7 1/4 to a 7 3/8 L.O. What I got back was a vintage felt hat literally reconstructed!

The possibilities are endless.

 

[Andykev]

Im bound to be on edge with this

OK that makes sense. Steve only does the raw edge Indy hats, his expert specialty. If you want the vintage look, you will have to go elsewhere to retain the bound or welted edge. The welted edge is the most exacting as it is made while the hat is being felted. You have either an "underwelt" or an "overwelt". Depends on the direction the felt is folded over the brim (up or down). The Cavanagh edge, the best, is hand felted into the hat brim. Other methods require sewing the fold to the brim. Bound edges are ribbon applied to the brim edge. It takes great skill to produce a clean edge. You can alter the shape, look , and appearance of the hat. Wide bindings make the hat brim look heavier and narrower. The thin bindings make the brim appear wider. The color is important also. Many choose a complimentary ribbon which matches the color of the hat body. However, a contrasting color applied can have striking results. A dark brim on a light body, or a light ribbon on a dark body. Each changes the look of the hat.

I recommend YOU DO NOT remove the bindings, esp. if welted. You can change the bound edge ribbon quite easily.

 

[dopey]

OK that makes sense. Steve only does the raw edge Indy hats, his expert specialty. If you want the vintage look, you will have to go elsewhere to retain the bound or welted edge. The welted edge is the most exacting as it is made while the hat is being felted. You have either an "underwelt" or an "overwelt". Depends on the direction the felt is folded over the brim (up or down). The Cavanagh edge, the best, is hand felted into the hat brim. Other methods require sewing the fold to the brim. Bound edges are ribbon applied to the brim edge. It takes great skill to produce a clean edge. You can alter the shape, look , and appearance of the hat. Wide bindings make the hat brim look heavier and narrower. The thin bindings make the brim appear wider. The color is important also. Many choose a complimentary ribbon which matches the color of the hat body. However, a contrasting color applied can have striking results. A dark brim on a light body, or a light ribbon on a dark body. Each changes the look of the hat.

I recommend YOU DO NOT remove the bindings, esp. if welted. You can change the bound edge ribbon quite easily.

Thanks. Insights into the effect different bindings have are exactly the bits of info I that make me really appreciate this board.

I am pretty sure I will send the Cavanagh (with Cavanagh edge) to Optimo. It is gray, with a purple/lavender ribbon that needs to be replaced, and I would like to get a similar ribbon. The moth nibbles may not be that at all, but just some goop. I can't tell, but I am sure they can. Amazingly, while the felt is dirty and creased, and the block and outside of the hat is a mess, the liner and sweat is in really beautiful shape. I also have a nice Mallory Century that really just needs to be cleaned up, but no major renovation. It is a bound edge. I am thinking of American Hatters based on a PM rec. I received. The truth is, both are a bit too much hat for me. The classic high crown/big brim that is so popular here doesn't work as well for me as a 2.25 brim and a 4.25 or so crown. Both these hats are much bigger. I would like to try to find a way to block them so they wear smaller. A wider binding is one idea, although the binding on the Mallory is already wide. The Mallory I posted here http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=3329 , is actually a better scale for me, even if it is a shape I am not used to.

 

[MattC]

Seconding AndyKev

I've had Graham at Optimo clean and block, and also completely rebuild hats. He does beautiful work, every time.

 

[renor27]

I also have hat that needs to be reblocked and cleaned

This is a great thread I have tryed to reach Optimo Hat company by email to find out prices and some other info but with no luck. What is the email address folks are using to reach the company ?
David Kerr
Reno, Nv

 

[Andykev]

Drop a dime!

I don't know if his email is working for the company (I have his private, but is is just that), they are upgrading the web site.

CALL him 773-238-2999

Clean and block was about $35, and of course there is the shipping. Sweat I think is around $15, and the ribbon and such is similar. WELL WORTH IT!

 

[dopey]

I spoke with Marlene at Optimo, and the Cavanagh, which needs the most work, is now on its way there. I called American Hatters once and left a message with no response. I will try them again next week as I am in no particular hurry. I plan on sending them a Mallory Century, which mostly needs a good cleaning, and perhaps a Stetson Royal Deluxe Open Road.

 

[Pilgrim]

An option for fine hat services

I'm a newcomer but will volunteer some information, although it sounds like you gents have some good options locally.

Yesterday I picked up a Stetson Whipett and an Open Road that I had the Greeley Hat Works in Greely, CO clean and shape for me. Their services are highly professional and reasonable in price.

The Greeley Hat Works has been around since 1909 and they still use the original hat blocks and other equipment. If you have a hat that needs serious service, I recommend them to you. Their website is fun to browse, and although they are predictably oriented to western hats, they're quite familiar with dress hats of all types.

Their website is found at:
http://www.greeleyhatworks.com/

I'll get a pic of me in the Whipett up here soon.