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Comparison - a $40 Denim vs $130 Denim Jackets

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,313
Location
Iowa
*Let's have some fun with this one, I tend to be too serious too much of the time*

So the word is out on the FL street, Denim jackets are back and just in time for spring (for much of the world.) I confess I was a slower one to get into this type of jacket, partially as they seem just too popular, and due to the rather shoddy quality of some of the ones I have handled. I have no interest in a jacket with holes worn in it, tears, bleached, etc. I like inky dark blue and that's what the subjects in this little comparison will represent.

First, what is denim is Not: (Please feel free to add to this list)
  • Not great in wind
  • Not great in rain
  • Not great below about 45F
  • Not great with a zipper
  • Not great on a motorcycle if its' moving... :)
  • Not great with formal/corporate casual settings
Next, what denim is: (Also let's hear your thoughts on this too)
  • Great on a motorcycle for style
  • Great in a High school for style
  • Great in a college for style
  • Great on a mild spring/summer/fall day
  • Great for off-work time
  • Great for on-work time in right environment
Now to the jackets I compare here:
First up, Wrangler brand, RJK30BL $39.99 at a local farm store. $45 on Wrangler's site. Technically advertised as "black" but will show as quite dark blue. Size L as shown. Widely available online and in stores. https://www.wrangler.com/shop/wrangler-rugged-wear-denim-jacket?variationId=RJK30BL#hero=0

IMG_6632.JPG
Not included in this comparison: Turns out there's a Selvedge model that I think looks quite attractive: https://www.wrangler.com/shop/mens-...enim-jacket-20wjcs?variationId=20WJHSL#hero=0

Next Up: Un-Branded "Jacket" https://theunbrandedbrand.com/collections/jacket
Size XL, Selvage denim; $128 for this one
IMG_6633.JPG
As can quickly been seen, there's very little size difference. The Large Wrangler is nearly the same as the Extra Large Unbranded. The pockets on the Wrangler are much more angled, and have a rounded design, whereas the Unbranded is much straighter of design in the pocket area, with very tight "V" bottoms and rather narrow openings under V shaped cover flaps.

The buttons used are certainly different as well. Compare them here: IMG_6631.JPG

Here's a back shot of the two of them as well, close up to show stitching and denim details:
IMG_6640.JPG

The real difference shows inside. Since they are both un-lined, there's no hiding how they are constructed:
Wrangler:
IMG_6646.JPG


Here's the Unbranded (Selvedge):
IMG_6647.JPG


It's hard not to notice the quality of the stitching, the tight, carefully constructed seams in the Unbranded. The Wrangler is fine as a daily driver, mass-produced jacket. Both are construed in Asia. And it's easy to come by anytime.

So after taking all these shots, and forgetting entirely to take fit photos, I took the Wrangler back to the farm store and returned it. So much for practical, indeed.

What are you all picking up for Spring?
 
Last edited:

Guppy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,282
Location
Cleveland, OH
I paid $10 apiece for my two denim truckers. One, an unlined Old Navy clone of the classic Levis Type III, with handwarmers and inside pockets. Close fitting, lovely color and fading, classic, not high end, not supposed to be.

And $10 for my Levis sherpa-lined. I wish it had an inside pocket, but it's OK without it. It's faded even nicer than the Old Navy, from a dark blue to starting to show its white hairs like an old man.

I've had both a good 10+ years now, how time flies. No pics just this minute tho, sorry.
 
Messages
17,105
Location
Chicago
If you’d have asked me, even one month ago, if I’d be interested in denim jackets of any kind I would’ve said no. I’ve long been a fan of Iron Heart and Unbranded brand 21oz denim but never really gave a thought to the jackets. Not my thing.

On a whim I bought a 21oz serge denim work style zip front jacket from IH and loved it. Super substantial yet easy to wear and fairly inconspicuous. It lit a flame. Purchased a trucker style 21oz type III from psant25 and that was it. The fit on these is super flattering, the fades and creases are amazing over time and they wear like cotton armor. They cannot be compared to run of the mill trucker jackets. Not the same animal. Immediately ordered another 21oz super black Lee 101j. Once you tried a jacket in 21oz denim it’s very hard to ignore (at least for me).

Personally, these styles are actually infinitely easier to wear. No questions about motorcycles, etc. (not that I ever cared about that). Ultimately it’s not a this or that thing, leather jackets still have there place in my wardrobe but exploring this material is proving to be every bit as exciting.
 

ksozay

One Too Many
Messages
1,071
Location
Seattle
Ton probably captured it well.

I’ve got a few IG denim jackets I love. Fit and finish, quality are top notch. Recently purchased a type 2 from iron heart and have really that jacket. About to grab a 101j from iron heart to beat on over the summer and into the fall.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Messages
16,402
There's really no comparison. Like, the difference between a cheap leather jacket and an expensive leather jacket can actually be negligible - or worse, a cheap one can look better than a really pricey jacket. With denim, there's just no comparison. Makes it extremely hard for me to leave the house in a leather jacket when I've got this as an option.

IMG-20190315-172100.jpg

IMG-20190315-172143.jpg
 

Colin G

One Too Many
Messages
1,194
Location
Canada
I live in denim jackets. I have since the 80's in my high school days.

My problem is finding one that fits me right. My favourite one that is long gone now, was a GWG I found at value village.

I have not tried any of the newer, Japanese super-denim brands like you guys but nothing beats that vintage 70's or early 80's denim for thickness, feel and wear.

These days I blow through a pair of levis jeans in the crotch area in under a year. When I used to be able to find nice vintage jeans, the quality was such that they would just keep on going.

Same with the jackets but I think I need to try something like an Iron Heart but the sleeves are always so damn long. I figured the Japanese brands would have shorter sleeves than Levis ect but no. Some are longer
 
Messages
16,402
I live in denim jackets. I have since the 80's in my high school days.

My problem is finding one that fits me right. My favourite one that is long gone now, was a GWG I found at value village.

I have not tried any of the newer, Japanese super-denim brands like you guys but nothing beats that vintage 70's or early 80's denim for thickness, feel and wear.

These days I blow through a pair of levis jeans in the crotch area in under a year. When I used to be able to find nice vintage jeans, the quality was such that they would just keep on going.

Same with the jackets but I think I need to try something like an Iron Heart but the sleeves are always so damn long. I figured the Japanese brands would have shorter sleeves than Levis ect but no. Some are longer

You seriously should give IH a try. Or some other high end Japanese brand. Naked & Famous is very approachable and they make some fantastic stuff. Their logo alone is worth it. :D

I've been thru quite a few vintage to 80's, made in USA denim jackets since I got my first IH and while I can't say I've got nearly as much experience as true denimheads, so far nothing that I have handled even compares to IH. I still have a few old Levi jackets in the wardrobe but most that I bought I couldn't get rid of fast enough. For starters, none of it creases! The sleeves fade and all but they don't crease while IH denim creases exactly like leather.

Seriously, give it a try. I'm not just talking hype here 'cause If it sucked, I would've said it sucks but it doesn't. It is seriously worth the up-charge, which isn't even that drastic.

And don't worry about the sleeves. The shoulders on most IH models are somewhat narrow which takes a big chunk out of a sleeve length.
 

Colin G

One Too Many
Messages
1,194
Location
Canada
And don't worry about the sleeves. The shoulders on most IH models are somewhat narrow which takes a big chunk out of a sleeve length.

I need around 25" max sleeve length on a regular Levis otherwise it looks like I am wearing my big brothers jacket. I checked out Pike Bros denim jackets and their sleeves are even longer at 26" +
 

GregO

One of the Regulars
Messages
258
Location
Delaware
You seriously should give IH a try. Or some other high end Japanese brand. Naked & Famous is very approachable and they make some fantastic stuff. Their logo alone is worth it. :D

I've been thru quite a few vintage to 80's, made in USA denim jackets since I got my first IH and while I can't say I've got nearly as much experience as true denimheads, so far nothing that I have handled even compares to IH. I still have a few old Levi jackets in the wardrobe but most that I bought I couldn't get rid of fast enough. For starters, none of it creases! The sleeves fade and all but they don't crease while IH denim creases exactly like leather.

Seriously, give it a try. I'm not just talking hype here 'cause If it sucked, I would've said it sucks but it doesn't. It is seriously worth the up-charge, which isn't even that drastic.

And don't worry about the sleeves. The shoulders on most IH models are somewhat narrow which takes a big chunk out of a sleeve length.

Couldn't agree more. The IH stuff is next level, and even though the listed measurements seem a bit long to me in body and sleeve, it has worked out great for me. My overdye 14 oz from IH spec'd at 25.9" in the sleeve...I never take more than a 24.75 or 25. But its fits absolutely perfectly. Monitor is right, the trim fit and the slightly narrower shoulder eats up what you might think is an overly long sleeve length. Couldn't recommend trying Iron Heart any more heartily. Superb stuff. A bit spendy for denim in my opinion, but you get what you pay for. Besides ... its 1/3 or 1/4 the cost of my favorite leather makers (Eastman and Aero), and I enjoy them just as much. Even more so when the weather turns a little warmer.

3sixteen is another good brand, as is Studio d'Artisan. I have pieces from both of them, and they are very nice. I got them second-hand though, so didn't pay full boat. No experience with Naked & Famous, but I hear good things. IH is the only denim jacket brand I won't hesitate to pay full price for.
 
Last edited:

Gamma68

One Too Many
Messages
1,926
Location
Detroit, MI
I don’t mean to be a wet blanket, but I don’t get the fetishism over expensive new denim jackets. Very nice, practically brand new examples are plentiful on the second-hand market. I’d rather direct my funds toward a leather jacket.

I picked up this Canadian-made Lee at a thrift store for less than $5:

D691FA18-1059-49B0-93F0-E408BFE4D481.jpeg


This early 1980s Levi’s jacket, worn maybe once, was $29 on eBay.

5028FCDB-1A00-445E-95B8-3E6BB1DE30EB.jpeg
B0E65365-6862-4A7E-93A9-995C880A0522.jpeg


If I bought another, it might be a Lee Storm Rider, like this vintage USA-made one I foolishly sold a few years ago (and it was a cheap eBay purchase):

17356957-6510-45CB-929B-38DCBC19F9D7.jpeg


These would meet my needs just fine.
 

ProteinNerd

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,889
Location
Sydney
I really like truckers but my issue is trying to avoid the ol' Canadian Tuxedo look.

Blue denim jeans are always my go-to for casual wear and I always worry if I order a "nice" trucker from overseas when it turns up it will be to matchy- matchy with my jeans.

My 2 Gustin waxed cotton jackets avoid this but sometimes the wax cotton just traps to much heat when its a little humid...
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,474
Location
California
Same with the jackets but I think I need to try something like an Iron Heart but the sleeves are always so damn long. I figured the Japanese brands would have shorter sleeves than Levis ect but no. Some are longer
Yep.
My IH 101J has sleeves that are almost 28 inches long! I think I understand what they are trying to do, the longer sleeves leads to more stacking which leads to more awesome creasing and wrinkling, which leads to monster fades! That is all well and good but I agree with you that I would be happier with sleeves that were about an inch to inch and a half shorter.
 

Gamma68

One Too Many
Messages
1,926
Location
Detroit, MI
I really like truckers but my issue is trying to avoid the ol' Canadian Tuxedo look.

Blue denim jeans are always my go-to for casual wear and I always worry if I order a "nice" trucker from overseas when it turns up it will be to matchy- matchy with my jeans.

Simple solution—wear khakis. See above.
 
Messages
17,105
Location
Chicago
I don’t mean to be a wet blanket, but I don’t get the fetishism over expensive new denim jackets. Very nice, practically brand new examples are plentiful on the second-hand market. I’d rather direct my funds toward a leather jacket.

I picked up this Canadian-made Lee at a thrift store for less than $5:

View attachment 160667

This early 1980s Levi’s jacket, worn maybe once, was $29 on eBay.

View attachment 160669 View attachment 160668

If I bought another, it might be a Lee Storm Rider, like this vintage USA-made one I foolishly sold a few years ago (and it was a cheap eBay purchase):

View attachment 160670

These would meet my needs just fine.
It’s somewhat akin to comparing a jacket made of cxl, Vic/ Shinki or what have you to a “mall” jacket. You would instantly understand once you held one. It’s a wildly different animal. IH is to Levi’s as Aero is to Wilson’s . I understand why you wouldn’t want to invest that kind of money into denim. I wouldn’t have thought I would either.
 

Gamma68

One Too Many
Messages
1,926
Location
Detroit, MI
It’s somewhat akin to comparing a jacket made of cxl, Vic/ Shinki or what have you to a “mall” jacket. You would instantly understand once you held one. It’s a wildly different animal. IH is to Levi’s as Aero is to Wilson’s . I understand why you wouldn’t want to invest that kind of money into denim. I wouldn’t have thought I would either.

Gotcha. All I need is another rabbit hole to fall in!
 

GregO

One of the Regulars
Messages
258
Location
Delaware
Until you’ve put a higher end denim jacket on, you haven’t seen what you’re missing.

Some folks love vintage, inexpensive jackets. I get it. Personally, I love jackets that fit me well, that break in and gain tons of character, and that make me feel good. And, in my mind at least, make me look good.

I don’t wear mall leather. And I don’t wear $5 denim. But to each their own.
 

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