Conundrum - second hat decision

[r00tuk]

Ok, hello All.

This is my first post and I need some advice. I am 5 weeks new to wearing a hat after waking up one day with a desire to wear one, in a style that I could not name! I spent some time researching hats on the net, and then this site, to discover what I wanted was a "fedora" style hat made out of felt. Felt? I had to look that up too.

Anyway, I got myself down to Bates Hats in London where I bought a Guerra Travel in a brownish/fawn colour which I have been wearing casually ever since (my wife loves me wearing it now .) But now I want another hat. I intend this one to be a relatively all purpose hat as I travel a lot for work. I don't always have to wear a suite so the hat must be able to be wearable with casual jeans and t-shirt to smart pants (trousers), jacket and collared shirt. I realise this is probably a lot to ask of any hat, but what the hell!

I have read the forum threads about the Akubra Federation IV and came to the conclusion that this one will probably make a very good second hat and seems to tick all my requirements, but I need some help to make a compromise decision: colour or felt grade?

My colour preference is the carbon then dark brown, but my felt choice is first for the Federation Deluxe IV (which I understand is made from their Heritage felt line) before the Federation Standard. Both colours will suite me, although I think the dark brown may be considered too informal, or "weekender", for London. I also don't want to be linked to Indiana Jones when I am wearing it; the link was a later realisation.

Is the deluxe version worth compromising on colour?
How much softer is the deluxe compared to the standard and is there a difference in the look of the felt to the untrained eye?
I understand that both versions are quite stiff when new, but soften up nicely over time. How much softer does the deluxe become compared to the standard, or does the standard stay stiff?

I have not seen any Federation in real life so I would be buying blind, except for the member's photos. Is there another similar hat (not Indy/Raiders style similar) which I should be looking at which gives me both the carbon and felt choice? I had a look at the Poet in the shop, to use it as a reference for the Fed IV, but it's dimensions seem to make it suitable for the bigger, broader chap. They did not have one in my size so I could not try one on.

As this is my second hat, I don't want to be spending a small fortune even though I expect that I will invest in a VS custom hat in the near future once I understand what hat style and dimensions I like and suite me.

Thanks in advance for any advise!

 

[danofarlington]

Both colours will suite me, although I think the dark brown may be considered too informal, or "weekender", for London.

What fascinates me is that dark brown is considered informal or "weekender" in London. I had no idea about hat color and formality--sort of thought it similar to shoes--and thought dark brown on an even footing with gray. You have edified me on that point. Here in the U.S., I think such a distinction would be lost on us. I am interested to hear whatever other commentary is available from the Brits to shed additional light on color and formality in London. To answer part of your question about color, I think dark brown a lot more versatile than dark gray. My charcoal gray hat seems only to go with sport coat or suit, specifically the blue ones, and no blue jeans or less formal wear with go with that particular hat.

 

[fedoralover]

Welcome to the lounge and the world of fedora's. I would go with the brown Deluxe first. I have both and the extra dollars are worth it in the long run. The felt is a higher quality and has a nicer feel and will last longer. The leather sweat band is also a higher quality on the Deluxe, which if you wear it a lot will pay off down the road as the cheaper one will require replacement at an earlier date. Brown is a staple color and not an "informal color" at all and will probably go with more things than gray. But as you start to wear these things, you will not be able to stop with just one or 2 colors anyway. They get addicting, so be prepared for that.
As to the Indiana Jones comments, most members here will tell you "Get used to It" regardless of the color. If you wear any kind of fedora at all, no matter what style or color, someone will yell out, "Hey Indy" at you at some point in time. It just comes with the territory.

fedoralover

 

[r00tuk]

Thanks to you both for the advice, which was very useful. 1 dark brown Akubra Federation IV on it's way.

As to browns in London, I should have said that it is more of a feeling I get than actual experience that browns (shoes and hats) are considered less formal during the week, but saying that I don't socialise with the city crowd anyway.

 

[Neophyte]

Fellow Newbie

Your story is very much like mine, although my first hat was a Tilley's Dark Olive T3, which I got 50% off (good thing too, that piece would've cost me $70+. I bought it for sun and rain protection (it rains a lot at my university, and is freakin' bright as all heck when it isn't), but the plus side is that its brim dimensions are quite similar to the Federation.

I also have a Dark Brown Fed IV (regular) on the way as of today. As I wear a lot of jeans and dark colored polos (black to green to blue), I'm very confident that I can rock the Fed. Good luck on your purchase.

 

[AlterEgo]

r00tuk,

fedoralover's post pretty much nailed it. Keep in mind the Fed IV Deluxe is also available in moostone, a couple shades lighter than Akubra's mid-gray. That's what I have, and I think it's the most versatile color of all--I wear it with everything from a dark navy suit to jeans and a flannel shirt.

If you choose a color other than brown, plus crease your open-crown Federation differently from the traditional Indy bash, you will lessen the frequency--yet not altogether eliminate--the inevitable "Hey, Indiana Jones, where's your whip?!" comments.

Let us know what you decide and, of course, post pics when the new Fed arrives. The vendor, shipping fee/time, and how much you paid are always nice to know, too.

 

[r00tuk]

r00tuk,

fedoralover's post pretty much nailed it. Keep in mind the Fed IV Deluxe is also available in moostone, a couple shades lighter than Akubra's mid-gray. That's what I have, and I think it's the most versatile color of all--I wear it with everything from a dark navy suit to jeans and a flannel shirt.

If you choose a color other than brown, plus crease your open-crown Federation differently from the traditional Indy bash, you will lessen the frequency--yet not altogether eliminate--the inevitable "Hey, Indiana Jones, where's your whip?!" comments.

Let us know what you decide and, of course, post pics when the new Fed arrives. The vendor, shipping fee/time, and how much you paid are always nice to know, too.

Thanks AlterEgo. I ordered the dark brown deluxe today (from hatsdirect) instead because I have a grey Beaver Brand hat arriving via eBay. The BB was an impulse buy, but at least I get to see if the grey suits me.

I am not too concerned about comments as I am usually listening to music and unlikely to hear nothing, but if I do, and the commenter is wearing a cap, then I plan on replying with something along the lines "...where's your ball?"

 

[r00tuk]

Dark brown Fed IV arrived today and wearing it in. The dark brown looks more formal, and darker, than expected so I don't expect it to be a problem wearing it into the city as I first thought.

Not used to the taller crown and had a shock when I first shaped and wore it. Managed to lower the pinch and looking much better.

Great service from hats direct!

 

[johnnycanuck]

pictures?

 

[AntonAAK]

What fascinates me is that dark brown is considered informal or "weekender" in London. I had no idea about hat color and formality--sort of thought it similar to shoes--and thought dark brown on an even footing with gray. You have edified me on that point. Here in the U.S., I think such a distinction would be lost on us. I am interested to hear whatever other commentary is available from the Brits to shed additional light on color and formality in London.

There always used to be an informal rule about not wearing 'brown in town' over here but I don't think that anybody worries too much about that now. I'll happily wear brown tweed to work if I feel so inclined. I'm not sure if I would, or would be allowed to, if I worked in the City however.

I would however propose that greys, blues and blacks are considered more formal here than brown tones. And as far as shoes are concerned it is also much rarer to see people wearing brown shoes with a suit over here than it is in the USA or Italy, for instance. A blue or grey suit very much calls for black shoes.

Maybe we are a bit uptight like they say.

A

 

[scottyrocks]

I have two brown Feds. I love both of them. One is a standard IV and the other is what I think is a deluxe III. Yes, there is a difference in the felts, but once broken in, as both of mine are, its not huge make or break difference. Theyre both soft and malleable, although the III is slightly smoother. The liner and sweat in the III were replaced before I got it, so I cant comment on them.

As for creasing, I say do what you want and politely ignore people who dont knbow when or how to keep their mouths closed. I happen to love Indiana Jones, and deliberately crease my hats in a Raiders style. I dont particularly like the occasional comments, but I take them for what they are . . . pretty much meaningless.

 

[danofarlington]

There always used to be an informal rule about not wearing 'brown in town' over here but I don't think that anybody worries too much about that now. I'll happily wear brown tweed to work if I feel so inclined. I'm not sure if I would, or would be allowed to, if I worked in the City however.

I would however propose that greys, blues and blacks are considered more formal here than brown tones. And as far as shoes are concerned it is also much rarer to see people wearing brown shoes with a suit over here than it is in the USA or Italy, for instance. A blue or grey suit very much calls for black shoes.

Maybe we are a bit uptight like they say.

A

That, I never knew before. I'm interested in some of these unspoken rules that underlie use of formalwear. Also interesting are the differences between the U.S. and the U.K. Here in the U.S. it's hard to know what the formal rules are. Going back a few decades, you had President Ronald Reagan wearing brown suits; Clinton did too I think. The old movies aren't a help because I see some of brown and some of the gray family both in the movies. It was all mixed up more after the introduction of "casual Fridays" in the 1980s, which became "casual all week long" in the 1990s and 2000s, imploding the men's dress industry and causing it to gear up for casualwear. Because I am suspicious of self-appointed experts here in the U.S. who love to pronounce what the formal rules are, whether they know anything or not, I prefer to hear the information from the U.K. where formalwear traditions are less broken and fragmented than they are here in the U.S. So, thanks for the perspective.

 

[r00tuk]

pictures?

Pictures coming of both my first and second (Fed IV) hats. After getting over the initial shock (both me and my wife ) of the high square crown, and a bit of fine tweaking the height and profile I can "confidently" say that it looks great - but that's from a neebie!

 

[r00tuk]

Ok, finally managed to take self portraits on my mobile phone so the quality is iffy. The Fed IV is in in "training" so the brim looks flatter than usual. The lighter coloured hat is my first one. A huge difference!