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Could an amateur replace a welted sweatband?

Lefty W.

One of the Regulars
Messages
205
Location
Austin, TX
I finally found a decent fur felt derby for use on this past weekend's Dapper Dan Dash (http://dapperdandash.wordpress.com/), our local version of the "tweed ride," a social bicycle ride in which participants dress in tweed, knickers, generally Victorian-to-1930s clothes. No lycra.

The temperature on Sunday was in the mid-80s, with 90% humidity, so after about 4 hours of riding and drinking, my derby was suffering. My sweatband pulled away from its mooring, and I discovered remnants of glue from a hot glue gun.

The sweatband itself appears to be in great condition, but it would probably require hand-sewing in order to reuse the existing threadholes. I'd like to attempt to sew on a new welt, and then sew the welt into the hat. Has anybody (nonprofessional) done this before, and if so, what do you use for the welt?

Thanks.

Canhoto (Portuguese for "Lefty") W.
 

Fletch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,865
Location
Iowa - The Land That Stuff Forgot
Yep...I have a ±15yo Worth & Worth hat with a welt stitched to the reeding - and the stitching to the body has failed.
The result is a reeding that doesn't want to hold still when the sweat is flipped out for resewing.
It would take a very steady pair of hands to handsew it in straight - hands not particularly shy of needle pokes, either.
 

Lefty W.

One of the Regulars
Messages
205
Location
Austin, TX
So last night, I removed everything from the hat. The liner had been glued in with a hot glue gun; looks like it had been done several years ago. About half of the sweatband had been glued in recently, as a result of me sending it off to be cleaned/reblocked after I had recently won it.

I presume that hot glue is not the most appropriate way to fasten these things.

I won't be doing this job after all. Back in the mail it goes.

Another question - the "Optimo" some of you folks recommend for doing hat renovation - is it the one in Chicago http://www.optimohats.com/, or is it the Óptimo in Arizona http://www.optimohatworks.com/?
 

fmw

One Too Many
Messages
1,017
Location
USA
So last night, I removed everything from the hat. The liner had been glued in with a hot glue gun; looks like it had been done several years ago. About half of the sweatband had been glued in recently, as a result of me sending it off to be cleaned/reblocked after I had recently won it.

I presume that hot glue is not the most appropriate way to fasten these things.

I won't be doing this job after all. Back in the mail it goes.

Another question - the "Optimo" some of you folks recommend for doing hat renovation - is it the one in Chicago http://www.optimohats.com/, or is it the Óptimo in Arizona http://www.optimohatworks.com/?

It is the one in Chicago. They do excellent work. They restored my Resistol pork pie and they have my McKelvey Homburg at the moment for a new binding and ribbon. I have also had excellent results from Henry the Hatter in Detroit who has done one of my Akubras and one of my Westerns. I'm sending Joe another one of my Westerns tomorrow for some work. Both of these companies have done sweat band replacements for me that look just like they came from the factory.
 
Last edited:

Sam Craig

One Too Many
Messages
1,356
Location
Great Bend, Kansas
Last time I checked, a GOOD sweat costs upwards towards $10 with shipping.
Jack Kellog at Hatman Jack's in Wichita will do the replacement for $18.
I can't imagine it would be worth sewing in a band and trying to size it correctly for $8.
I have to believe about a quarter way through the job I'd be wondering just how I ended up this stupid.

Sam
 
Messages
10,524
Location
DnD Ranch, Cherokee County, GA
...
I presume that hot glue is not the most appropriate way to fasten these things.
...
Another question - the "Optimo" some of you folks recommend for doing hat renovation - is it the one in Chicago http://www.optimohats.com/, or is it the Óptimo in Arizona http://www.optimohatworks.com/?

You presume wrong for the liners as most are glued in with hot glue at the factory & refurbers do to. Sweatbands are typically stitched in tho.

The one in Chicago...
 

Lefty W.

One of the Regulars
Messages
205
Location
Austin, TX
You presume wrong for the liners as most are glued in with hot glue at the factory & refurbers do to.

Thanks. Still, seems to me like the more appropriate way of attaching a liner would be to baste or stitch it in, so as to make it more easily removable for the NEXT refurbish job, no? Or am I wrong there, too?

Something tells me they may not have used hot glue guns back in the 1920s or even the 30s when the hat was likely made? Just wondering...
 
Messages
10,524
Location
DnD Ranch, Cherokee County, GA
Thanks. Still, seems to me like the more appropriate way of attaching a liner would be to baste or stitch it in, so as to make it more easily removable for the NEXT refurbish job, no? Or am I wrong there, too?

Something tells me they may not have used hot glue guns back in the 1920s or even the 30s when the hat was likely made? Just wondering...

The hot glue gun is quicker & cheaper. If you warm the liner up with a hair dryer the glue usually lets go readily.

Agree, that is why I stated "are glued" instead of "were glued" meaning current day methods.
 

Lefty W.

One of the Regulars
Messages
205
Location
Austin, TX
You say the hat is a derby (or bowler in the UK). Is it a real one (i.e. very stiff that when you push the felt it does not give)?

Yes, sir. A Mallory derby. Cravenette process (according to the label on the sweatband). Pleated lining. It would normally be stiff, but the crown is a bit rumpled, most probably due to the non-original box being a bit small.

I apologize for not having suitable photos accessable at the moment.
 

Lefty W.

One of the Regulars
Messages
205
Location
Austin, TX
sounds like a homburg

Perhaps, but there is no evidence of a center-dent crease, and the brim has that classic old-style curl as seen on your vintage derbies. If I can figure my way around posting a photo, I'll see if I can put one up a bit later.
 

The Wiser Hatter

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,765
Location
Louisville, Ky
Just received back an Open Road that Drew did total rehab on and He stitched in the leather sweatband and put in a new Stetson liner and resized the hat for me.
Great work I will be posting pictures later this week. Still working a bashing the hat to what I want. :) I won this Open Road for .99 cents and spent the money for
a full upgrade. It took him a week and a half and he really did a great job even gave me a Stetson hat box for the hat. Though it might be awhile till it gets in that box again.
Nice to hat a good every day hat again.
 

Lefty W.

One of the Regulars
Messages
205
Location
Austin, TX
Here's a few photos (and hopefully not red "X"es).

5492944249


5492944249


5492944249


5492944249


5492944249


Well, that probably didn't work. Back to the FAQs to figure out how to post photos.
 

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