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Dating Your Hat (A Place to Discuss the Age of Your Vintage Hat)

Just Daniel

One Too Many
Messages
1,291
Yes to all of the above\below. Definitely.

There seem to be exceptions to every "rule." However, it must be noted my mention of the 3X roundel, in conjunction with the re-order tag, is how the estimate was made, not on the 3X logo alone. Dwelling on the 3X logo alone is a red herring.

In my experience, the roundel coupled with that re-order tag is mid-to late 50s. I'm aware the rectangular has an older history, but it seems to be rarely seen during the 40s/50s. The Lounger asked for a date estimate and I gave it my best. If I'm wrong, I don't care, I'll adjust to the knowledge received. We're trying to help a fellow Member, that's the goal here.
 

Just Daniel

One Too Many
Messages
1,291
Wow, those are really gorgeous. Would you place them as 40s exceptions? The 3X roundels there certainly look like 40s - without the Paris/London etc and with the squiggly markers instead.


Here are a couple variants on the 3X

and the liner



and the liner





retailers had their choice of stamping s on the hats that purchased for retail, there was no one size fits all...at one point an order form was posted on the lounge stating this very thing and showing the offerings at that time
 

Headpatrolman

New in Town
Messages
46
I am trying to date this Stetson bowler I just came across. I have been looking through the forums & can't find this particular liner. There is no size tag. The sweat is very large & of very good quality. [/ATTACH] 20211213_221134.jpg 20211213_221145.jpg
 

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Just Daniel

One Too Many
Messages
1,291
I have not come across anything like it. Penn Craft had their own tags, but they also had their own labels, etc. Same for Chamois.

LMB has a point, it might be Stetson was manufacturing for them.



Has anyone seen this style of label on a pre-war Stetson:

View attachment 410486View attachment 410487

View attachment 410488

The label matches the sweatband markings (I’ll have more when I receive the hat). I’ve had little experience with hats this old and I don’t recall seeing this label before. It’s odd that it doesn’t say Stetson.
t might
 

wsmontana

Familiar Face
Messages
53
Location
Montana
Stetson roundel (5X is rare), rectangular size tag without the metric size, and the embroidered liner all say 1960s to me. Great find.
Thanks! I consistently see that rectangular size tag associated with the 60s but the roundel is often associated with older hats. That tripped me up.
 
Messages
15,048
Location
Central California
Thanks! I consistently see that rectangular size tag associated with the 60s but the roundel is often associated with older hats. That tripped me up.
That size tag made it into the 1970s too, but I don’t think the embroidered liner did. The 5X is unusual for this era but very common later. I wonder if Stetson kept using the old roundel because it was little used and they didn’t have a replacement for it? Neat hat.
 

wsmontana

Familiar Face
Messages
53
Location
Montana
That size tag made it into the 1970s too, but I don’t think the embroidered liner did. The 5X is unusual for this era but very common later. I wonder if Stetson kept using the old roundel because it was little used and they didn’t have a replacement for it? Neat hat.
That seems plausible. I haven’t been able to find another hat with these exact markings so it seems a bit of an oddball. The quality is very fine and the condition is like new so it was a fortunate find.
 

Just Daniel

One Too Many
Messages
1,291
I agree with Brent, from what we have seen 5X hats were not that common in the 50s so the roundel on the sweat is probably a carry-over during the 50s-60s transition. The size tag is the thorn here - from my perspective as a collector it swings the hat over to the 60s era or at least outside my preferred early 50s timeframe.

We can say one thing with certainty - it's not a 40s hat. The plastic takes it out of that decade despite what many sellers like to claim ;)

A 5X from this period was a really great hat, it should be a great felt!

Daniel


 

wsmontana

Familiar Face
Messages
53
Location
Montana
I agree with Brent, from what we have seen 5X hats were not that common in the 50s so the roundel on the sweat is probably a carry-over during the 50s-60s transition. The size tag is the thorn here - from my perspective as a collector it swings the hat over to the 60s era or at least outside my preferred early 50s timeframe.

We can say one thing with certainty - it's not a 40s hat. The plastic takes it out of that decade despite what many sellers like to claim ;)

A 5X from this period was a really great hat, it should be a great felt!

Daniel
Thanks for the info Daniel!

Does the trolley cord offer any help in dating a Stetson hat? I associate the trolley with pre-60s and keyhole date tags but my experience is limited.

I found a price tag inside the sweatband for $40. I don’t know if that helps in dating but it is interesting to see what $40 is worth in today’s dollars based on it‘s date:
- 1950 is $480
- 1960 is $390
- 1970 is $298
- 1980 is $140

Now that inflation is kicking in again, it seems prudent to buy more vintage hats. That is what I tell my wife anyway :).

Bill

39149870-176C-4AC5-87DC-291E0057D447.jpeg
 
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