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Double Helix Works?

dudewuttheheck

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3,602
Hmmm, Flame Panda has no problem saying where his boots are made, and no problem selling them either. Maybe time to rethink the Double Helix made in Japan false marketing, if that is indeed the case? Good (and great) stuff can be made in China.
There is a big difference. Flame Panda is a Chinese maker. The founder is Chinese and his family works with him to make the boots. There is a difference between that and outsourcing production of something. Without a doubt, Flame Panda proves that some of the best boots in the world can be made in China as I do believe that Peng and his family make some of the best boots you can buy.

I do know that some Japanese brands have pretended that their items were made in Japan while actually being made in China. I personally had never heard about this with Double Helix, however. Over the last couple of years, I have tried to stick to certain Japanese brands in which I know where their items are made- not just in Japan, but actually where in Japan. I actually know generally where Freewheelers and Rainbow Country jackets are made, where White Kloud is made (I know the guy) and where Brass Tokyo boots are made.
 

red devil

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London
There is a big difference. Flame Panda is a Chinese maker. The founder is Chinese and his family works with him to make the boots. There is a difference between that and outsourcing production of something. Without a doubt, Flame Panda proves that some of the best boots in the world can be made in China as I do believe that Peng and his family make some of the best boots you can buy.

I do know that some Japanese brands have pretended that their items were made in Japan while actually being made in China. I personally had never heard about this with Double Helix, however. Over the last couple of years, I have tried to stick to certain Japanese brands in which I know where their items are made- not just in Japan, but actually where in Japan. I actually know generally where Freewheelers and Rainbow Country jackets are made, where White Kloud is made (I know the guy) and where Brass Tokyo boots are made.

Last time I was at the Rolling Dub Trio shop, I saw the guy who took both my Clinch orders - I think he is the one who made my engineers - there. He had switched jobs. All the craftsmen I have met have been passionate and friendly.

I guess on the other hand, with all these new brands coming out like mushrooms, it is difficult to tell who is legit who isn't, especially if you do not have the chance to visit their shop.
 

dudewuttheheck

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Last time I was at the Rolling Dub Trio shop, I saw the guy who took both my Clinch orders - I think he is the one who made my engineers - there. He had switched jobs. All the craftsmen I have met have been passionate and friendly.

I guess on the other hand, with all these new brands coming out like mushrooms, it is difficult to tell who is legit who isn't, especially if you do not have the chance to visit their shop.
Yeah the Clinch people have always been awesome. The guy who sewed the uppers on my engineers and took the order is now in Germany I think. He is repairing boots there. You can still find him on Instagram @brasstokyo_masa . Not sure if it's the same guy or not.

Agreed. I generally stick to more established Japanese brands for that reason, unless they are brands like TCB or Clinch who make it very clear that they make everything in house.

I have this odd feeling with a lot of these newer Japanese brands, especially the leather jacket ones that they exist just because of the allure of Japanese leather jackets... that's not a factual statement, just a feeling I have. Freewheelers, Rainbow Country, RMC, Tenjin Works, The Flat Head, etc do not fit that description at all so I feel safer with them.
 
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red devil

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Yeah the Clinch people have always been awesome. The guy who sewed the uppers on my engineers and took the order is now in Germany I think. He is repairing boots there. You can still find him on Instagram @brasstokyo_masa . Not sure if it's the same guy or not.

Agreed. I generally stick to more established Japanese brands for that reason, unless they are brands like TCB or Clinch who make it very clear that they make everything in house.

I have this odd feeling with a lot of these newer Japanese brands, especially the leather jacket ones that they exist just because of the allure of Japanese leather jackets... that's not a factual statement, just a feeling I have. Freewheelers, Rainbow Country, RMC, Tenjin Works, The Flat Head, etc do not fit that description at all so I feel safer with them.

Yeah that's him, I remember he mentionned planning to go to Europe to do shoe repairs a couple of years ago or so :)

I have that same feeling but nothing to confirm it, I would also add from the top of my head Four Speed Leathers (been to his workshop) and Electric Leather Studio (same).
 

dudewuttheheck

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Yeah that's him, I remember he mentionned planning to go to Europe to do shoe repairs a couple of years ago or so :)

I have that same feeling but nothing to confirm it, I would also add from the top of my head Four Speed Leathers (been to his workshop) and Electric Leather Studio (same).
Ah yes, I should have mentioned Electric Leather. Four Speed is good to know can be confirmed as well.

Masa is a super nice guy. Would love to meet him again some day.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
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5,403
I just saw this Instagram post from T-Bird (a brick and mortar store in Paris). The owner is wearing a double helix cossack style jacket. At first glance I thought it looked pretty nice...

451AFE8C-D5CA-4801-AA10-B87081EC6B05.jpeg


But then I noticed a super narrow chest combined with wide and square shoulders:

2F323C92-EAE5-4AF6-8E19-3BC30C2A520B.jpeg


It looks like he isn't able to close those upper two buttons. Also note the wide bottom hem:

0F9A7608-7C61-42A8-9141-1ABF9748C381.jpeg
514C524E-429C-457D-B51C-64D5E4FDEFEC.jpeg


Note the huge upper sleeves. Calling them generous would be an understatement:

57A0D369-D1EB-4E69-8FB6-F93049FA81EC.jpeg


5515A7F7-85FB-4DE1-9360-B7B6C4E458A0.jpeg


I would have to try one on myself to be certain that Double Helix patterns are WEIRD. But judging by these pics I'm not too impressed.

Edit : for comparison this is what an Aeromarine looks like on him :

06AA29CA-DBCF-4945-9334-338CD90F1870.jpeg
 
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Imuricecreamman

One Too Many
Messages
1,406
I just saw this Instagram post from T-Bird (a brick and mortar store in Paris). The owner is wearing a double helix cossack style jacket. At first glance I thought it looked pretty nice...

View attachment 410056

But then I noticed a super narrow chest combined with wide and square shoulders:

View attachment 410057

It looks like he isn't able to close those upper two buttons. Also note the wide bottom hem:

View attachment 410061 View attachment 410058

Note the huge upper sleeves. Calling them generous would be an understatement:

View attachment 410060

View attachment 410062

I would have to try one on myself to be certain that Double Helix patterns are WEIRD. But judging by these pics I'm not too impressed.

Edit : for comparison this is what an Aeromarine looks like on him :

View attachment 410068
I think all the details you mentioned are probably real, but they are also really exaggerated by the new/stiff leather. I feel like these slightly awkward patterns can work really well on certain physiques and a really well worn/broken in one would probably look good on T-Bird guy. But the wide shoulders along with the really short sleeves also suggest something is up with the sizing for his physique.
 

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,036
Location
Switzerland
I just saw this Instagram post from T-Bird (a brick and mortar store in Paris). The owner is wearing a double helix cossack style jacket. At first glance I thought it looked pretty nice...

View attachment 410056

But then I noticed a super narrow chest combined with wide and square shoulders:

View attachment 410057

It looks like he isn't able to close those upper two buttons. Also note the wide bottom hem:

View attachment 410061 View attachment 410058

Note the huge upper sleeves. Calling them generous would be an understatement:

View attachment 410060

View attachment 410062

I would have to try one on myself to be certain that Double Helix patterns are WEIRD. But judging by these pics I'm not too impressed.

Edit : for comparison this is what an Aeromarine looks like on him :

View attachment 410068
I had same feeling as I saw it on insta… ;)The T-Bird guy as a more forgiving physique I think, but I am sure, rated on pictures, if you have an average Western Hemisphere build this particular cut on the 1920 Sports Jacket he’s wearing would not fit properly.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,403
I would have to try one on myself to be certain that Double Helix patterns are WEIRD. But judging by these pics I'm not too impressed.

I thought I could judge a jacket by looking at the pics. I was wrong, totally wrong.

This is a size 42 which is my regular size. Fits great. Generous upper sleeves, generous chest. Nice shoulder slope too. I would almost call it perfect if only the sleeves were just a bit wider at elbow height.

I was impressed by the construction quality. Stitching was neater than the Eastman /ELMC jackets that were next to it on the rail. Price? I think I read €1200 on the price tag but I'm not sure. That can't be right, this jacket is much nicer than that. If I were in the market for another cossack style jacket this would be a serious contender. I'm not a huge fan of the shiny leather though, it comes with a very thick topcoat. But that's just personal preference.

9E67FD22-5228-4E0E-A368-795690680A3A.jpeg
97C01436-5BA9-4BFB-935B-DB2C2FC7A65C.jpeg
 
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BloodEagle

A-List Customer
Messages
314
Location
UK
Coincidentally, I was in London a few days ago and had a chance to visit, among other places, Rivet & Hide, which stock Double Helix jackets. I checked out a few and tried on a 'Hugging the Curve' jacket, which looks pretty closely based on a Freewheelers Mulholland. I didnt get any pics but it seemed to fit well - much more comfortable than the ill-fated Mulholland I had for a while, and the build quality and general finish on all of the DH stuff was extremely impressive I would say - very nicely put together indeed, with a really nice feeling leather (not sure what it was, but it looked and felt a lot like Shinki to me).

As an aside I also visited the new Real McCoys shop, which was just next level in terms of presentation, stock available, help from the two immaculately turned out girls in the shop, and of course the beautiful leather smell - if I could have spent the whole day there I would have!
 

Despot

Familiar Face
Messages
56
Location
Dublin, Ireland
I know I was posting on here a few months ago about my love (entirely based on online photos) of the Fine Creek Leon … thinking of it as an upgrade on my Vanson C2RN … it’s funny how wrong you can be.

I’m extremely grateful for folk on here pointing out the pattern length in particular - my target size of 44 would have been far too long. While I’m still looking for a suitable upgrade on the Vanson type jacket my continued weight loss has meant that Gily’s old Flat Head Delraiser has gone from ‘I can zip it - just’ to ‘perfect fit’ … and it’s become my go to cross zip.

I feel bad for the Vanson. I sized based on my weight when I ordered and now I think a 42 would be perfect. But with shipping and taxes I’d be better off spending the same money on a Double Helix Deviant from one of the EU stores that carry the brand. Despite all that’s been said on here re: DH and country of origin it could fix my other main gripe with the Vanson (the meh leather)
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,161
I think DH uses Nitta tannery. I remember watching a video about it. Pretty much Shinki like but a little more pliable and softer out of the gate. I was considering their J24. I think you can order direct and dollar to yen conversion is quite good right now so was appx. $1200 or $1300. Their trucker style jackets look incredible. Was hoping to see more in the wild before pulling the trigger.
 

blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
Messages
104
I think DH uses Nitta tannery. I remember watching a video about it. Pretty much Shinki like but a little more pliable and softer out of the gate. I was considering their J24. I think you can order direct and dollar to yen conversion is quite good right now so was appx. $1200 or $1300. Their trucker style jackets look incredible. Was hoping to see more in the wild before pulling the trigger.

Yup. I f*cked up and bought the deviant from Snake Oil Provisions... who dont do refunds for online orders for some reason. Any other store does, even Double Helix themselves.
 

blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
Messages
104
Im bumping this post, I did receive the Deviant from SOP. The horsehide feels good, just as stiff as Schott's maybe a bit thinner? (I couldve sworn I saw somewhere that its actually thicker) but definitely fits or is cut better and not as boxy, certainly has the wide shoulder and slimmer waist.

The thing is its very grainy/creasy already dont know if its because of SOP sending me an old one or just the way it was made or I am seeing things because I am expecting it to be more "ironed" but then again it was in a small box and made it from LA to Germany.

deviant.jpg


The only gig I have is the zippers, definitely dont feel as "premium" as the Schott. Actually feel like its not as good of a quality for the price. Will see if I can get it switched later on.

EDIT: P.S. It does not squeak, dont know if that means its higher or lower quality
 
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sshack

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Messages
289
Location
California
Don't mean to be obtuse... but can someone explain pricing differences? There's a retailer/dealer in California that sells a trucker style Double helix jacket for around $1700 US. On the double helix works website, you can order the same one for $1100 US. Add about $75 for shipping. Either way, it's MUCH cheaper to buy direct from Japan. Plus, I imagine the dealer in US isn't paying retail Japanese prices.... What accounts for the big price discrepancy?
 

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